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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So trying to track down no crack/no ignition buzzer/no radio I put a multimeter on the 30A PWR ACC fuse block(see highlight below) and I only get 1.1volts and it drops to .5 when key is on. Any idea why I wouldn't have 12v at the PWR ACC at the fuse block? It was working about a month ago and its been sitting in garage and I come back to crank and get this now. Where does this wire run back to so I could multimeter the other end?

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Thanks in advance for any help :)
 

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The power ACCESSORIES fuse doesn't control crank, buzzer, or radio. It powers things like power seats.
I'd start by checking battery voltage. Got to be at least 12V. Check ALL the cables on both ends for tight and not rusty or corroded. Also feel them down from the battery a couple inches. They can corrode inside the insulation. Hopefully you don't have those junky replacement ends on any of the cables. The kind that bolt on with 2 bolts. Those corrode something awful.
Find the diagram that has the starter on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The power ACCESSORIES fuse doesn't control crank, buzzer, or radio. It powers things like power seats.
I'd start by checking battery voltage. Got to be at least 12V. Check ALL the cables on both ends for tight and not rusty or corroded. Also feel them down from the battery a couple inches. They can corrode inside the insulation. Hopefully you don't have those junky replacement ends on any of the cables. The kind that bolt on with 2 bolts. Those corrode something awful.
Find the diagram that has the starter on it.
Thank you. Mine does as this fuse slot has wires running into it as a 12v trigger/switch for a Continuous Duty solenoid that runs to the starter. Except its not getting the 12v from the fuse block as mention above. There are brand new batter terminals and multimeter shows good 12-13v. I also get the 12v at the starter.
 

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You got some sort of alarm or remote starter kit in it? If so that's where you problem likely is.
Never heard of a continuity solenoid, but I'm sure there are lots of things I never heard of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You got some sort of alarm or remote starter kit in it? If so that's where you problem likely is.
Never heard of a continuity solenoid, but I'm sure there are lots of things I never heard of.
It does not.. sorry I mistyped that solenoid :) .... See above..
 

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Sounds like the red wire to the fuse block isn't getting power from the ignition switch. Some years that wire is brown.
On the cropped wiring diagram above it's the wire at the extreme right and goes off the bottom. On the complete diagram it goes to the ignition switch. But on your truck that may not be where it originates as it sounds like the wiring has been modified. The 1st gens didn't use a starter relay and that may be why the extra solenoid was added to reduce the amperage thru the switch.
You're pretty much on your own here because with it not being stock none of us can see what was altered and factory diagrams mean nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like the red wire to the fuse block isn't getting power from the ignition switch. Some years that wire is brown.
On the cropped wiring diagram above it's the wire at the extreme right and goes off the bottom. On the complete diagram it goes to the ignition switch. But on your truck that may not be where it originates as it sounds like the wiring has been modified. The 1st gens didn't use a starter relay and that may be why the extra solenoid was added to reduce the amperage thru the switch.
You're pretty much on your own here because with it not being stock none of us can see what was altered and factory diagrams mean nothing.
I understand... I will check this RED wire that goes to the ignition and also looks like alternator. Thanks for the help. .
 
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