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2wd Lift Info!

73745 Views 68 Replies 30 Participants Last post by  Rhotpursuit
First and foremost, lifting your truck will cost you more money than you think it will especially if you offroad this more and not just street queen. Howver, if this is just street driven with slight trailing/offroading then you'll be OKAY for the most part depending on what was done and whatnot.

If you are poor, broke, not enough income and able to spend from nothing to $500, DO NOT LIFT YOUR TRUCK!!!

You are better off saving your money on future truck problem, life situation, bills or anything important that won't require you to go back to stock and sell the parts which will be losing money and time wasted other than enjoying the lift stance/prerunner built.

Here's a quick example of me lifting the truck and offroading with problems

Pretty much said above but brake line go for $30 to $100 new and depending on DOT hose or SSB hose.

I recommend Bilstein shocks.

I recommend shackle before AAL unless you haul loads.

I recommend above before flip axle over leaf unless you don't mind more wheel hop.

If you're just wanting little lift because you're broke. DON'T BUY ANY OF ABOVE!

Save your money for repairs if it occur to your truck. At almost every 3rd or 4th offroad trip, something weak breaks and require fixing.

I'm on second set of lift spindle
2 tires poked to flat
1 tire slight poked but thin enough to use tire repair
Uca bushings went to shit and replaced all of them 2 or 3 times.
Uca mount twisted
#6 injector went out, replaced entire assembly
Coil went out
Tie rod bent and nearly ripped off
Tailgate flew off and dragged all over
Cab to bed frame tweaked
Motor mount ripped
Trans mount torned
I'm on about 3rd alignment
Coil spring sagged
Air bag module don't work
Busted up wheel bearing which cause replacing of rotor, spindle shaft Bent/stripped, abs sensor and couple others
Excessive body damage and desert pinstriping, scratches
Busted brake line
Ripped front valance
Bent bumper bracket
Balljoint replacing(I used Extreme duty but needed money so I got boot to rip and then replace them with heavy duty and cash back, and now I replace them every oil change, finally upsizing back to Extreme/Moog)

Couple more I haven't listed, that's treating the truck like a TT.

With all money spent, I could've saved up and get LT and prevent a lot of issue with better riding and more bracing.

If you are not mechanically inclined then even MORE reaon for you NOT to do anything to your truck except for typical maintaince or repairs/replace needed.

Shop can charge you from $250-$1000+ from whatever is ruined, broken from offroading or bad install which set you back even worse than it could've been if you just saved your money.

This is expensive hobby if you want to do more than street driving and drive it hard offroading.

However, if this is something you can afford to buy and able to have money leftover for repairs/replace that will occur at any given moment, then procede to next post.

Otherwise keep on dreaming and save your money so it'll be done good and well with no issues.
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Now that you understand the risk and money involve into lifting up S-Series you can be able to move on to the next step of figuring out the lift you want.

Read this sticky for further information before making a thread and ask when most of the answers are there or here.

Lift Spindle, Taller spindle by 3" from stock regardless what brand(except for 1st Generation Fabtech which is the one and ONLY true 3.5" lift). Maintains ride feel which means no stiffness or softness after the lift spindle install. There are several company that makes them. You can read this thread for further info of install, mods, recommendations.




Aim= Aim, Springtech, Chassistech, same company

FT= Fabtech

Lift Coil, Taller, different spring rate from stock is what provides the lift. However, you need to understand that you cannot go more than 2.5" lift coil on STOCK OR SHORT TUBULAR UPPER CONTROL ARMS!!! Doing so will cause more problems than you can imagine, VERY unsafe, and the ride will be beyond horrible.

Spring rate, height is what gives the lift and ride feel.

There are couple alternate lift coils WITH stock/short tubular shot upper control arms.

Aim 2.5" WITH same engine you have

2.5" lift, 4 Cyl. Use them on 4 cylinder 1st or 2nd gen. Using one of V6 will give you an extra inch which will be TOO TALL. Using this on V6 will actually won't give you as much lift but 1"-1.5" which may be ok if that's what you want.

Moog 5662/5664
, they are used for other vehicles with heavier engine but DO fit on S-Series and do provide little more lift but not as much as Aim/Fabtech/Name brand lift coil which also gives you less stiffer ride which you may prefer for mainly daily driving with minimal to no offroading.

5662 is used on 4 cyl and 5664 on 6 cyl.

FCS5662 or FCS5664 is the part number if you order through local auto store.

Here's link to rest of Moog coil specs.

, 3"lift coil ONLY FOR LONG TRAVEL!

Dick Cepek 2", you can get them off through eBay under the seller ID esp_corp. They provide 2" lift coil, they are stiffer than Moog coils BUT gets you 2" of lift.

Rough Country 2", they are STIFF coil for 2" lift, it's NOT worth buying unless you're going Long Travel.


Best to flip your balljoint if you're planning on offroading more than just easy trail. It gives you better angle position which last longer and positive camber which is easier when it comes to lifting your stock control arms.

Brake lines
This thread pretty much sums it up.

Thanks to Barry James, Red Baron, 89-S-Dime, Dezertdimes.com, What?, and several others for the informations, trial and errors, and help to achieve spread awareness to help others preventing issue, problems, mistakes and instill proper information for the S-Series for you people to enjoy. :tup:
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dude this is a for sure good thread!
first its lift parts
then comes new wheels and bigg tires
then comes alignment and the akigning shop tells me everything in my front end is worn out. theres a hole nother 400 bucks..

I agree with What? on the whole don't lift it if you can't afford it. Luckily I'm slowly lifting my truck as I get spare cash. And I just redid my entire front end steering components. This is expensive to do, but worth it.
what happened to your first set of lift spindles?!
Great idea and great thread. I'll be waiting for part 2 of your first post.
.... then procede to next post.
I'll update this later on and get all information up for a permanent thread to post this link on newbie's thread. :tup:

i lol'd
what happened to your first set of lift spindles?!
Spindle shaft bent. It sucks, because shaft are not just replaceable due to forged in cast iron which mean more procedure to properly remove them and installing new one in. I don't have time to tinker and install screw in shaft.


Second post is updated but still incomplete.
Post to be updated, 1.
Post to be updated, 2.
Great Job What?

I'm going to install my spindles this weekend if I get brake lines.

If you need anything, feel free to ask.
Any site links to buying the lift spindles?, I'm having alot of trouble finding sellers online:rant:
Not much on Ebay right now, look at Dezert Dimes, sometimes they have some. Here's the only thing on ebay, but $100 more than is should be.

so i did a body lift on my 82 2wd and followed all the instructions and it looks great but my steering is so stiff..... Anyone know what would be the problem?
Your steering shaft may be in a bind.
if i put in

Aim/Fabtech lift spindles
moog springs
and shackles out back.. about 2 or 3 inches

how would an 82 regular cab look that already had a 3" body lift?
and how would the ride be do you think?
what size tires would that fit?
would it be a somewhat easy install?

sorry for all the questions but i wanna have a good lift thats not fallin apart on me:)
le bump, so for absolute confirmation for me, Spring Tech is a safe spindle?
Yes, Springtech, chassistech, they are all AIM spindles with a different name on them. Mine were either spring or chassistech, I forget off hand.
mine are AIM as well, i put them on a while ago and have had no problems, check my thread \/ for details if you want, but like i said no problems

edit: well, one SMALL problem, if you run 31x10.5 tires they might rub your UCA, like this > http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/project-sinoma-433674/index7.html#post7453550
click here for the solution to the rubbing > http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/project-sinoma-433674/index8.html#post7463599
StirFrey, I actually went through your thread last night for motivation, lol..will refer to it a lot when I finally get another truck.
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