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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought that 2K High build primer/ sealer that also etches for the metal, how fine do i need to sand everything before i spray this on? i will be using a urethane redure to get it to go through the gun better. I will be painting and all this weekend, so i need to know how fine of sand paper i need to use before i use the high build stuff, and how well will it cover sratches, etc.?
 

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92 sonoma 4x4
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you should use at least 230 or 320 grit to get the primer to adhear the the metal ive worked on quite a few paint jobs and its always better to sand before you prime even if it says that it etches. and dont worry if u get some sanding marks because the primer will fill in the marks. and use a orbital sander so u dont get long straight sand scratches.
 

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S-Clusive's Jester
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220 has worked for me everytime, even 80 works but 36 scratches will stick
 

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stone the crow...
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man i would not use any coarser that 220 on a D/A to just scuff up the panel good for primer. If you start using below 80 grit you will have scratches come back through and you will see it in the paint. On using 2k products, in my experiences i would not reduce the product down any more, i say this B/C every 2k product i have used had a pretty thin viscosity to begin with.
 

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S-Clusive's Jester
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ohhh to scuff up a panel ya i use 220 on a DA or like a scothbrite for the hard to get areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
well i wouldnt reduce it but this stuff is so thick its crazy, the guy at the body shop told me it would go through the gun a whole lot easier if it was reduced slightly, also, everything has mostly been hit with 150, and i plan on hitting the rest of it with 150, so you think that would be fine enough b4 the 2k primer? now what about sanding the primer after its dried to get out the sratches that are still visible? do i just have to re spray the primer on that section or what? I was planning on also hitting the finished primed surface with 320 or 400 b4 the base color, and then no sanding between color and clear, correct?


everthing thing, including all metal areas are aleady taken down to original primer/ metal
 

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S-Clusive's Jester
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i generally reduce it with lacquer thinner until its manageable. what you do is do spot prime just the area you did bodywork(did you do any work) and then let it dry and then spray another decent coat but do more than a spot prime do the surrounding areas also. then let it try for a few hours and then sand with 220 or 320. then prime the area again and then pretty much prime the whole panel with teh second coat. if u sand the 2nd coat i wouldnt drive it because its open to getting dirt and dust embedded in it because sanding opens the pours
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well i plan on primering it, then color, then clear all in one night. i am gonna start around six and stay up till its done. so its gonna be a late night..... i will primer the body work spots first, then sand them and re- primer them spots and the rest of the truck, then let it dry for an hour or so while i am checkin it all over, then couple coats of color, then clear.
 

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S-Clusive's Jester
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ahaha good luck with that!! you generally allow 24 hours for the primer to dry all the way through. you couldnt wet sand a truck by yourself in a 8 hours let alone 2-3 times.
 

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i boarded body work with 180 n d/a to the old paint/gloss n primed after that.
 

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AcrophobiA CEN-CAL
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crazy_s_dime said:
well i plan on primering it, then color, then clear all in one night. i am gonna start around six and stay up till its done. so its gonna be a late night..... i will primer the body work spots first, then sand them and re- primer them spots and the rest of the truck, then let it dry for an hour or so while i am checkin it all over, then couple coats of color, then clear.
Just to make sure you might want to block off 2 days. There is always things that come up that will slow you down. Anything from primer not going on right to blow throughs. I'd try to do all the primer one night then sand it and ready for color the next day.

If you do decide to do it all in one night make sure to do a final block sand before color. Also make sure this nice and warm so the prime will cure correctly..... and always clean, clean,clean.... before after and sometimes during a session.

Good luck and I cant wait for the pictures!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well maybe i will primer it friday night, then let it set all day, and then color/clear sat night. we will see.
 

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hmm....did you forget about masking it off? I know it takes me awhile to tape off a complete truck by myself, and after you wetsand everything you will have to dry it. I would say 3 days to do what you want to do in 1.... first day get it in primer, second day wet sand and dry it, and third day tape and spray.
I wouldn't get in to big of a hurry on it if I were you, just take your time and it will come out nicer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
the truck is mostly taped already, cause you cant primer unless its taped....... i dont plan on wetsanding the primer, i am just gonna hit it with 320 or 400, then do the color on top of that after i clean it off with tack cloth.
 

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I cant win for loosing.
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good luck using 400 on primer without having buildup problems on the paper...You will need to wet sand to keep the sand paper clean, and itll look better in the end.
 

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S-Clusive's Jester
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uhhh.....dont be dumb man. wetsand the primer. you're really coming across to me as someone completely unexperienced with this maybe you should start with little pieces b4 u do sumtin u regret to ur truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well the primer is on, we will sand with 320 tommorrow, a guy is helping me that has been painting for years, and i am just seeing what your guys' opinions are compared to what he says, cause 2 minds are better than 1! thanks for the help anyways...
 

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S10LuvR
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When you sand your final primer coat use 400 for solid colors and 600 for mettalic base coats, this is what we do at work, some say its to fine but after a few years when the customer came back there where slight sand scratches in the paint. Also make sure you let it sit like they said for 24 hours, after all that work you dont want it to shrink and have nice sand scratches there after you clear it :)

Also if you buy just dry only sandpaper in 400/600 it wont Clog up as much, 600 clogs a little, but not like using wet dry...thats like instant cloging lol.

Post some pics!!
 

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i would def. wet sand. its easier to sand and also cuts down on dust. and i dont know what type of sand paper adam is using but i think its completely opposite. you should probably use 600 grit sandpaper before applying the base and clear unless you sand with 400 then use sealer and then base coat clear coat wet on wet, if you can even spay that stuff wet on wet. i think you got the general idea but your pretty fuzzy on some areas man, i know you want to get it done right know man but trust me it takes time to do a complete.
 
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