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.53 is a huge difference to a pot hole or curb.
24s on a s10
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Yeah but don't forget that the outer diameter of a 24" wheel is actually 25.5" with the lip so if the tires are 29.4" OD that means there is only 1.95" of rubber between the rim and the road, whereas a 235/35-20 has 2.5" (your difference of 0.55" stays the same)
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I'd still like to see pics if you have any. I have stock de-humped lowers and stock pie-cut uppers (with PP balljoints all around) and I had to step the lower balljoint 1.25" to be able to lay 22s (28.0" OD) with drop spindles. So if he's laying 24s (29.4") with drop spindles he would've had to step the lower balljoint almost 2" to be able to do that with stock arms. Now, I'm sure if you welded a big ass plate on the bottom of the stock arm and cut everything off the top of it that you could get away with not stepping the balljoint, but even then I'm thinking it sounds a little fishy.
So yeah... please get pics if you could. I want to see how this was done
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20% is a difference yes. but its alot less then what its made out to be and of course when you have any custom wheels you pay attention to potholes and curbs. im not going to argue about this one second more. the tire is safe,he drives it on a daily basis, no weird tire wear and it aligned just fine.
the tire size is something that has to be done to allow the wheels use on the vehicle. its that simple. i have 275/25/24's on a magnum in my shop right now and he drives it on a daily basis also. that car is definetly heavier then a s10 and its had 0 problems as well.
its when you call what i say as under educated over generalization when said it wasnt much of a difference. if i said there was little to none id stand corrected. i deal with this stuff everyday. i WOULD not run it on a dually or a vehicle that will see some weight. i am running a 275/25/28 on a crewcab long bed im building. wont see anymore weight then maybe 2 people. its a just because i can build. so attack that to. please.
the tire size is something that has to be done to allow the wheels use on the vehicle. its that simple. i have 275/25/24's on a magnum in my shop right now and he drives it on a daily basis also. that car is definetly heavier then a s10 and its had 0 problems as well.
its when you call what i say as under educated over generalization when said it wasnt much of a difference. if i said there was little to none id stand corrected. i deal with this stuff everyday. i WOULD not run it on a dually or a vehicle that will see some weight. i am running a 275/25/28 on a crewcab long bed im building. wont see anymore weight then maybe 2 people. its a just because i can build. so attack that to. please.
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the front is cut for a re7, tie rods and the extra space needed for the arm to travel up. yea its 2" at the ball joint but its not at the point where it hits the frame. for 22's you gotta notch the frame a bit with stocks. its just barely more then you plate where you notched. you gain a ton of clearence when you eyebrow for a re7 so its just where it mounts to the frame really. you notch just like how you notch for a tierod. its not a wrong or right way. as long as its all plated back up its fine. arms will be built for it when it get bodyd. but thats just for more lift.
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theres that. all i have atm.
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not a fan of huge rims, but that truck looks cool as shit. I also see people running that size tire all the time here. And the road are horrible here. Magnums are plentiful with 24s and that seems to be the popular size tire for 24s unless they are on pickups. Rubber bands are nothing new, i saw more 10 years ago when 18s and 20s were 5xs the price for rims and tires
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Gotcha... I see what you're saying. I cut my spring pockets for RE8s but my opening isn't as big as it sounds like the ones on that truck is, so I still had issues with the arms hitting the bottom edges of the spring pockets (even though they're de-humped). Plus my upper cups are only 1.25" tall or something small like that so instead of almost having no upper cup or having to weld one in I decided to just step the lower balljoint. Granted, the arms now sit lower to the ground in relation to the center of the wheel, but that's not anything that would ever cause me any problems
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Oh, and also...
Stepping the balljoints (which kept the arms lower to the ground and from coming up into the frame as high) allowed me to still run a sway bar
Stepping the balljoints (which kept the arms lower to the ground and from coming up into the frame as high) allowed me to still run a sway bar
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So nothing fishy now right man? LOL. I stepd arms on one bodyd on 22's and it sucked and hated the outcome.....
love that truck, as soon as I get my rims in the next few weeks, I can lay the frame out, and determine what else on the suspension needs to be done, already notched the tie-rods on frame, i know ive done so much hahaha jk, I have completely wire-brushed frame down to bare metal to be painted!
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Josh I wanna see pics of this crew cab on 28s!
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No nothing fishy lol
I just prefer to not have my spring pocket cut out as big as it sounds like you cut the ones on that truck. My pockets are plenty big as is being sized for RE8s
What exactly 'sucked' about the stepped arms that made you 'hate the outcome'?
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No nothing fishy lol
I just prefer to not have my spring pocket cut out as big as it sounds like you cut the ones on that truck. My pockets are plenty big as is being sized for RE8s
What exactly 'sucked' about the stepped arms that made you 'hate the outcome'?
i hear ya on the big ass spring pocket. but its actually all plated on the inside with 3/16th plate. i tend to usually plat the pring pockets on anything to keep stress cracks to 0. i know they dont usually but everyonce in awhile itll happen. seen it a few times.
i just didnt like the outcome of steping the arm, the look mostly. i know that doesnt matter much. but i myself didnt like it. it does work thow. didnt say it didnt. it basically does what a tubular does.
ill get pics as soon as i start on the crewcab on 8's. im gathering all parts and working with sponsers right now.
josh
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youll get it man. need any pointers email me at [email protected] depending how well you can weld upside down you may just want to step and dehump your lowers and plate them pretty good. not to sound like im talking shit on s10's but they are by far the easiest truck to get to lay. a toughy is a control arm ranger bodyd on 22's. lol. but like i siad you need any pointer or help lmk man. looking forward to seeing it.
josh
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here it is waiting to get into the shop
99 c3500 srw. 04 silverado front end. shaved everything else. bodyline added to back of cab. built and supercharged 350 motor.
josh
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the hot wheels s-10 is pretty bad ass
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