S-10 Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Needed 4WD pick-up due to my wife's medical issue of the ts (Living In the wooded suburbs has drawbacks). I live in Northeastern PA. Previously owning three S10s since the mid Eighties and exhausted from working on my BMWs made this acquisition easy. The under-body of the truck appeared like you would expect in the SALT-Belt.

However, the entire underbelly/frame proved to be in relatively good shape with the left/driver-side sustaining the most corrosion. Considering the fact that the truck had less than 92,700 original miles; came with new tires and new brakes, I opted to ignore the fact that the 4WD did not work, and drivers side window did not work, and one stabilizer link was rotted out, I purchased this for (WAY TOO MUCH). Unfortunately, I fell in love with this truck.


352803


I decided to do a complete frame restoration without removing cab. The factory undercoating was a PITA to remove with the cab still installed, Ignoring the issue of safety/common sense was required to develop a cost effective timely solution.

As for the above picture, I purchsed a Sino-combo MIG, TIG< and Stick welder along with the steel necessary to fabricate a piece and weld in place to correct this deficiency.

THE PROCESS
Using a 2" putty knife, 3M Maroon Scotch-brite pads and a top-of-the-line HF 1.25 gallon garden sprayer containing a mixture of kerosene + gasoline + ZEP Industrial degreaser/floor wax stripper and a 2300psi pressure washer, I repeated this process twice.

Several days later, I used my pnematic HF Shotblaster and 250 lbs of ordinary play sand to blast the insides of the insides of the frame and undercarriage which couldn't addressed any other way in a driveway.

AS OF TODAY

Tire Car Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle


UNDER-BODY RUST PREVENTION


Used one coat of rust encapuslator followed by a one-step epoxy chassis coating manufactured by PPG (Please no lectures or arguments regarding my process. I'm sixty-two years old and this truck chassis will outlast my sorry ***. By the time the frame or undercarriage no longer passes state inspection will be my Son or Daughters problem.

Well, my baby is farther along than the above picture indicates. Leaf springs are installed with Prothane bushings an d the OG shocks have been replaced by Bilstien, the diff has been drained and filled along with a new diff cover . New E-brake shoes have been installed along with all new hardware. Next I will replace all the brake lines with pre-bent SS lines and finish the remaining suspension along with all new nylon fuel lines (I bought the Dorman Kit). Front valence and new rear bumper will be installed.

FINANCIAL Logic

None

Obviously, investing several thousand dollars restoring a seventeen year old Chevy S10 is an act of financial stupidity. However, this truck will last me the rest of my life. The interior is in great shape. All vehicle fluid and filters where applicable will be changed. After the wheels, suspension, fuel pump and bed are installed, the water pump & lower manifold gasket will be changed. Like a dope, I filled the radiator and coolant reservoir with dexcool. I opened my radiator cap today and found my coolant to have the consistency of a liquid gel. Further, I can stick my finger inside my radiator disturb/remove the film that is settling inside my radiator.
 

Attachments

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
30,349 Posts
Nice job...more than I would tackle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
Good job. More photos please.

Similar to Rhotpursuit’s comment, I have no interest in that work again. I only had the steering box attached loosely with 1 – bolt; motor mounts (+engine/transmission); and idler arm left attached to my 1996 Sonoma frame when I did similar work last Fall. Not a single additional fastener, clip, hardware, line, etc left attached. Did not enjoy that work. Still have to apply Eastwood Internal Frame coating to the interior of the boxed in portion of the frame. Ran out of warm weather last year and had to rush to finish what I could.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Nice to see someone fix it instead of junking it, we live in too much of a throw-away society.

You should consider after you are finished keeping it protected additionally with Fluid Film or Woolwax type products.
 

·
time to get cereal
Joined
·
5,654 Posts
Or just not driving it in the winter. Salt will find its way into the most protected metal.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top