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Discussion Starter #1
This is the truck I bought for 300 dollars. It had 4.3. Auto . Has 17 inch wheels and clear tail lights. I've purchased a 98 vortec 5.7 for 300 bucks along with the harness from which I have removed the v8 injector plug and knock sensor wire and installed into the 4.3 harness and repinned for 2002 express van. I have a friend thats gonna reflash the 0411 pcm with the express van program so thats covered. Now just getting more funds for the mounts and headers. I plan on using twin electric fans off of a 96 subaru they cover the factory radiator great and are shrouded for good air flow. I noticed that some guys are flipping there valve pans to clear the air duct. I just removed the extension and screwed the oil cap straight into the pan. I'll post more as it gets done I have front spoiler I removed it to get on dolly. Pics of wiring harness are during change over to v8 and finished product.
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You're going to need a C4 Corvette water pump and Mercruiser pulley on the front of the engine to get some room for your fans. If you look at the stock water pump it sticks way out and then the belt rides on the back edge. Why? The Vette pump is simply about an inch shorter and the boat pulley puts the belt right where it belongs so nothing else needs moving. You gain close to an inch. Even so you may have to recess you rad into the support a bit.
V8S10.org has more info on the C4 pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok I got the mounts and headers new bell housing bolts and i noticed that there are three bolt holes on bottom of this tranny that bolted to the oil pan on the 4.3 and a hole on the engine block on top thats not in the tranny. do i just make a cover for the bottom of the tranny and leave out the top bolt on bell housing or am I missing something .
 

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The top bolt isn't used. There a 3 on each side that hold the trans and engine together.

On the bottom you need the dust shield shown below. 15723359 about $50. I paid $25 4 years ago. It's off any 96-98 C/K pickup or Burbs and any post 98 using the Vortec 5.7 like vans or Escalade. If you want to try to find one in a JY.
You might have to drill the holes in the bellhousing for it and it uses self tapping screws.
Not all bellhousings were pre-drilled. I have some that are and some that aren't. IDR the size. They were metric like 8 or 10mm. What ever fits in the 4 holes. Only 1/2 - 3/4" long.
They just keep it from rattling.

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks I was on the right track i quess lol . I should be able to find one of those pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
On the front drivers side of the 5.7 intake there is a threaded hole where I believe a coolant line goes I have tried every threaded plug ace hardware has and cant find one that fits tight any body have a clue what i need. The 4.3 intake didnt have this.
 

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Since you have an EGR valve, I'm guessing it's for the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the intake. Got a pic of said hole?
 

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If it's threaded and on the drivers side and not a standard pipe thread I think Rhotpursuit nailed it.

Which brings up another issue common to this swap.If you don't have vehicle inspections where you register the vehicle, like I don't, simply buy a kit to plug that hole and remove and block off the EGR valve and disable the EGR in your tune.
Most mail order tuners can do it or anyone with HP Tuners. They will need to buy the access to your PCM.
I believe it's $100 for the 0411 and your vin.
Or do what I do, ignore the SES light.

If you do have inspections you are going to have to fabricate some way to connect the tube that normally goes there (as seen in the pic) to your exhaust system so the EGR can inhale a tiny bit of exhaust to keep the computer happy or you will get a SES or MIL light and won't pass inspection. The PCM expects a change in AFR when the EGR valve opens and will light a light if it doesn't see it. It's designed that way to let you know if there is a EGR malfunction.
One thing I haven't tried is to just not connect the exhaust manifold end of the pipe. Since the EGR will open and let in a bit of air, it might work. Unless the PCM is sophisticated enough to know the difference between how fresh air vs exhaust alters the AFR. Only a Nerd who understands the inner workings of the PCM could likely answer that question. But it might be worth trying.
Or you could weld the fitting that normally screws into the exhaust manifold (12552329) onto your headers in a location within reach of the bendable EGR tube. I'd trim it on the manifold side so that it doesn't stick way into the header pipe. 2nd pic.

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah thats the hole. I cant find a plug to fit the hole at the local hardware store going to lowes today if cant find one i will just order a delete kit thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well got a break in the weather today put the motor in bolted to bell housing. with motor bolted to tranny in stock position mounts wont fit over frame mounts . Motor has to move towards firewall about a 1nch. Im not sure if transmission will go back another inch ran out of daylight will figure it out tomorrow if it doesnt rain. there sermenger v8 mounts i got off ebay.
 

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You shouldn't have to move the trans back. That might bottom out your driveshaft which can break things.
Is there room on the mounts to move them.Some are elongated where they bolt to the block, but it looks like there is room to go farther on most of them. A air die grinder with a 1/4' burr would make short work of extending the holes.
Sure they're on the correct side? You sure on the brand? Got a link or pic?
I found them on eBay. Samger mounts from Autobrilliant - $38 TYD. Cheapest ones ever sold.
Get some good Advance Adapter mounts. If you're gonna do a swap do it right.
Or if budget is a concern buy these for $30 and weld the arms where you want them.
Or half way in between at $50 and they say on their page "These are proven to fit"
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After a long day its finally lined up. only thing I could figure out on these mounts I bought was the ears were welded on in the wrong direction. I cut the welds welded them back angled opposite direction and they worked fine. both motor mount bolts go into place easy havent tighten anything down still got one header to put on drivers side went on pretty easy looks like pass side wont be a problem. Will let you know what happens.
 

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For what those cost it was worth the time to correct them.
The 8 year old Chinese kid who likely did the welding was probably never told which way to weld them. Just to do it fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I guess Im done with this part of the installation until I can get a c4 water pump and Mercruiser crank pulley. But i got some other things I can do in the meantime.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I do have a question before i go looking for parts. I understand why Im changing the water pump is the mercruiser pulley for the water pump.
 

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The C4 Corvette is shorter than the Vortec truck water pump by about an inch, but if you use the Corvette pulley the belt is too far back. The Mercruiser engine had their own cast iron and brass pump the same dimensions as the C4, but heavier and more expensive. They used the Vortec truck accessory mounts so Kiekaufer made a pulley that fit the short pump and Vortec accessories. I actually have the marine waterpump on my ZR2 instead of the aluminum one. It is the same exact dimensions as the Corvette ones. I figured on a truck as heavy as a ZR2 a pound or 2 didn't make much difference and I'm not trying to impress anyone with the fact my truck has Corvette parts on it. Besides I have a C4 Corvette that has 100% Corvette parts on it.
I also still had to recess the rad some. But that was my own fault because of the 2-1/2" thick rad I choose. Turns out to be overkill, but that's how I like to build things.
I ended up with a grand in just the cooling system.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Picked up the water pump today 54.99 and bought a mercruise wp pulley fo 20 dollars so Im at about 800 dollars on this build so far so good. Ive started to put the wiring back have found a few plugs that the engine doesnt have or at least I havent found them yet but not going to get ahead of my self its raining and i still have to replace accessories up front but the one I haven't found are toward the rear drivers side mid way .Let you know how it goes as I complete things.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The C4 Corvette is shorter than the Vortec truck water pump by about an inch, but if you use the Corvette pulley the belt is too far back. The Mercruiser engine had their own cast iron and brass pump the same dimensions as the C4, but heavier and more expensive. They used the Vortec truck accessory mounts so Kiekaufer made a pulley that fit the short pump and Vortec accessories. I actually have the marine waterpump on my ZR2 instead of the aluminum one. It is the same exact dimensions as the Corvette ones. I figured on a truck as heavy as a ZR2 a pound or 2 didn't make much difference and I'm not trying to impress anyone with the fact my truck has Corvette parts on it. Besides I have a C4 Corvette that has 100% Corvette parts on it.
I also still had to recess the rad some. But that was my own fault because of the 2-1/2" thick rad I choose. Turns out to be overkill, but that's how I like to build things.
I ended up with a grand in just the cooling system.
Whhat did you do about the bypass inlet at the thermostat housing . and if you blocked it off how
 

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I put a tee into the hose to the heater that's right by the alternator. Looks a bit clunky because I couldn't find a angled one. But it gets the job done. If you plug the intake you run the risk of creating hot spots in the heads if you run it hard before thermostat opens. Guys do it w/o a problem. I prefer to look clunking and not worry. It helps to play around with some pre-bent heater hoses if you have any around so you don't have to make real big loops.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I put a tee into the hose to the heater that's right by the alternator. Looks a bit clunky because I couldn't find a angled one. But it gets the job done. If you plug the intake you run the risk of creating hot spots in the heads if you run it hard before thermostat opens. Guys do it w/o a problem. I prefer to look clunking and not worry. It helps to play around with some pre-bent heater hoses if you have any around so you don't have to make real big loops.
Thank you sounds simple enough.
 
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