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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The Plan: To take a stroked Gen 1 small block, use an aftermarket TPI intake, run it with a OBD2 compliant and tuneable ECM (to pass state inspection), re-use the factory 4.3 fuel injection harness in the Blazer with as few modifications as possible. Better know to the s10 community as a Vortec swap.

I will be keeping power steering, power brakes, heating, & A/C (Texas heat requires me to retain this). The A/C will probably require me to upgrade the radiator next summer, the factory 4.3 HD radiator that my Blazer currently has was replaced about 2 months ago and should be able to get me through the winter until A/C is needed again.

I can hopefully accomplish this swap in the shortest amount of time as possible without cutting any corners. This is my daily driver vehicle and cannot afford for it to be down any longer than absolutely necessary. Hopefully the only parts I will need to gather after the swap takes place are coolant hoses since I do not know the exact bends needed at this time.

All parts mentioned below have already been purchased, took me almost 10 years, bought my first parts in May 2001. This is not a dreamer post, this is happening, it just took me a long ass time to get to this point. The engine is just about assembled waiting to go in. The rear end was installed about 4 months ago, the suspension parts, fuel pump & filter will be installed a week before the swap takes place.

I have purchased a used core support to allow me to make the necessary modifications to forward mount the radiator before I start the tear down process. I also saved the original 4.3 HD radiator I took out of the Blazer to allow test fitment in the modified core support. This core support modification is a big step I can get out of the way before the swap procedure ever starts.

A list of specifications:

Vehicle: 2002 Blazer, 2 door, 2wd, 4.3 Vortec w/ auto trans (4L60E)

Transplant Engine: Gen 1 small block stroked to 383ci, multi-port fuel injected

List of parts include: Scat Forged rods and crank w/ Arp bolts, Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons (around 9.5:1), ported Vortec heads (260cfm/ 190 cfm @.550), GMPP 1.6 roller rocker arms, COMP XR276-HR-12 camshaft (276/281, 224/[email protected], lift with 1.6 rockers= .536 intake .544 exhaust), Edelbrock Vortec TPI base plate/intake (port matched to heads), Lingenfelter SupperRam plenum and runners, 42 lb. injectors, Holley 52mm Throttle Body

Ignition: factory style V8 Vortec distributor (flat dist. cap), MSD 8.8mm plug wires, factory 4.3 ignition module and coil, Vortec reluctor ring and cam position sensor in the front cover

Engine Management: Engine will be run using the factory 4.3 fuel injection harness (modified, 2 injector control wires added, EV1 injector connectors added in place of the injector pod connector) and a GM ECM flashed for a 2001-2002 Chevy Express van w/5.7 Vortec motor. This ECM will be the same ECM part number used with the factory 4.3, ECM service #12200411. Tuned with HP tuners

Fuel System: Walbro in-tank 255 pump, factory 4.3 fuel lines, factory 4.3 fuel filter, Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure (set @ 45 psi, boost reference @ a 1:1 ratio), factory TPI fuel rails (modified for -6 braided lines to rear feed each rail w/a single crossover)

Cooling System: factory 4.3 HD radiator (mounted in the forward position, modify factory core support), 190 degree thermostat, GMPP aluminum water pump, LS1 cooling fans, Painless F5 cooling fan controller

Exhaust: Headman long tube headers (Transdapt motor mounts with factory V8 motor plates and pads make the swap possible. I’ve also purchased a Transdapt oil filter relocation kit since I will be running long tube headers), 2 ½” dual exhaust, flowmaster 50 series mufflers

Transmission: 700R4 w/3000 stall

Rear end: unmodified Ford 8.8 (1998 Explorer, 3.73 w/ posi)

Suspension: tubular upper control arms w/ Afco ball joints, Belltech 2” drop spindles, factory front coil springs, factory rear leaf springs with 3” drop blocks.

Misc. Parts: GM serpentine brackets from a 1989 Z-28 Lokar throttle & TV cables, Lokar TPI cable bracket, Lokar oil and trans dipsticks, Hayden transmission cooler

pictures for those who don't read:





 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
During engine assembly I had an issue with the reluctor hitting the double roller timing chain I was using. Also as a side note the block had to be clearenced above the camshaft as well (no pictures of that though).


To get by this problem, I took another reluctor ring and cut it down on a lathe to create a spacer. I chose to use a reluctor ring for the spacer because it is keyed to the crank, and well, it just made sense since I had one laying around.


spacer installed


With the reluctor ring back on the crank with the spacer, I have clearence around the chain.


There was about a 4 week layoff between doing the spacer and installing the balancer. I forgot about the spacer when I put my balancer on and just couldn't get it to go on all the way. I ended up breaking the balancer install tool off in the crank. An hour to get that out and $45 for a new tool, then it hit me.

With the added thickness of the spacer there is no way the balancer would still allow my crank pulley to line up with my other pulleys and go on all the way. To solve this problem, I put the balancer on a mill and cut the thickness of the spacer from the back of the blancer. It was only .110" but it made a world of difference.


sorry for fuzzy pics, they're taken with an Iphone which isn't great for close up shots
 

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about time i see a thread on this! got any pics of the blazer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dude thats crazy, what kind of intake is that? I read through everything and I couldn't find out what it was. Thanks!
The intake is a Accel/Lingenfelter SuperRam.

I'll get pictures of the Blazer tomorrow. It's nothing special right now, all stock other than roof rack removed and 17" Explorer wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is what it's going into. It looks like a 4x4 righ now because of the tires on the wheels, but the ride is pretty nice with that much sidewall. Wheels are 17's from a 2004 (I believe) Explorer.

Can't hate them too much, they only cost me $43 and the 2 front tires appear to be just about new. I'm trying to find some reasonably priced 16" mustang wheels from the 2005+ Mustangs. Also, I'm running Ford wheels because I didn't modify the Ford rear end, I chose to just put Ford bolt pattern adapters on the front. Shortened Moser axels with a 4x4 3/4 pattern are on the list for as soon as I get the engine in.

I've also got a set of sport mirrors I'll be putting on this weekend
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Today I got the oil pan and lower intake/baseplate bolted down. The pics in the first post only had the top end just sitting on for pics. Tonight I need to finish polising my fuel rails so I can hopefully get those installed tomorrow. I still have to do a little modifing on the valve covers to get them to come off when the runners are on. I'm waiting on some breathers/PCV to show up I can get my valve covers drilled and get those on finally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
lots of progress this weekend

Engine wise I got the runners and fuel rails bolted to the intake, fuel injector harness made, and fuel pump block off plate made and installed.

Cosmetically I installed the sport mirrors I bought a couple weeks ago, painted and installed a new front bumper and air dam, and also painted my grille. After all of that I gave is a really good wash, pics to come tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
as promised, pictures from the weekend

Runners on and fuel rails bolted down




Had to sit the plennum on top and get a couple more pictures with it all together





yesterday I spent some time making the blazer look a little better. Some one hit the front driver side of my bumper about 3 years ago and tore the air dam and tweaked the bumper a little. I bought a new bumper a couple months ago and finally got around to painting and installing it. While I was painting the bumper I decided to paint the chrome center bar black, and paint the black webbing a metalic grey. I though it turned out pretty good.



I also installed some new mirrors

Before:


After:





and a little something extra for the motor I haven't mentioned yet





 

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Mine Drags The Ground
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Im running TPI too Did you use 2 driver side fuel rail to run braided lines
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I really hate how the factory line feed in from the front, it never made sense to me, so I fixed it.

Yep, I used 2 driver side fuel rails, one that is on the driver side of my motor was on a cold start vehicle. That required a plug which drilled and tapped a small holeto put the schrader valve for fuel press gauge/bleed into



then just drilled the front crossovers to 3/8 npt for my AN fitting to screw into. After that I was left with 2 holes in the rear of the rail from the factory crossover/fuel press. regulator. Instead of just plugging the rear crossover I made it functional, however they no longer line up since they are both driver side rail so I just bent hard line and used some compression fitting I had laying around.
 

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Mine Drags The Ground
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Yeah i was trying to think of a way to do it thanks for figuring it out for me:)
 

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Mine Drags The Ground
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and where did you get the schrader valve at
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I didn't get alot done yesterday, I didn't get anything done really. I spent almost an hour trying to find my fuel pressure regulator only to find out it fell out of the box in the back of the Blazer when I was bringing all of my parts up to my job. I'm hoping I can get my ECM and AN fittings for my regulator ordered today so it will all be here this time next week.

This whole week is going to be pretty much nonproductive, I'll be headed to Mississippi for the next 5 days so no work will be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ECM is on it's way and I figured I can take a few things with me to Mississippi to get them out of the way on our trip.

I still need to build a pillar pod for my trans temp and AFR, so I think I'll work on that. Trans temp will be moved to the console when I get the blower bolted on to make way for a boost gauge. I've got a dual gauge pod made for the A pillar, but I think I'm going do my own thing with them. In my head my idea semms to be something I'd like and different from every other "race car" around town with a jumbo jet cockpit bolted to their pillar. Once it's done, I may see that it looks like total ass. Either way there's only one way to find out.
 
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