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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
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Drove the S-10 home on Wed and went to start it on Saturday after we had rain for some days and she was making the sounds i had prior that was resolved with a cap and rotor (20K +/-miles) when it was wet out and not wanting to start.
Removed the autozone cap and figured its just a POS given the reviews when i was about to buy another combo for $60+, Decided ACdeloc and wait on Amazon to deliver.
I
m also not sure this is to much play in the distributor.

New ACdelco combo installed and went to crank it up and after 2 tries to get her to turn over, a loud bang and smoke come rising from the driver side of the engine.
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On closer inspection, i can see some sensor next to #5 sparkplug was smoking and looks like condensation has been dripping onto this location. i think its a knock sensor and not exactly sure what could have caused it to make a huge bang or what to do next.

I have a CEL but my osb2 seems to not want to read any codes. i have not started it since and stuck on what to do. HELP!!!!!

2001 V6 s-10 98K miles
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Discussion Starter #2
Seems the sensor is engine coolant temperature sensor ECT not knock sensor, given knowledge from above I would assume it got filled with water and went BOOM.

After reading some other info it seems I could bypass it with resistors. I might be crazy enough to try this.
 

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Bypass it for what reason? The ecm needs coolant temp to regulate fuel. There's really no way for the ect to collect water.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I still have yet to get it to fire up and run as it cranked twice and then something exploded.

I'll check the current ECT with my DMM and see if it's toast. 1.5k ohm resistor should trick the ECM to think its 150°.

Any input on old distro cap ware.
 

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Always use Delco parts... superior..

The bottom pix, the rotor cap is badly contaminated and arc-tracking (spark will jump across to other plugs.) Theres been arcing between the right-most tower to the outside of the rotor case- see the burned circle to the right of the tower conductor. That arcing will cause bad misfine and that also loads the oil up with unburned and partially burned fuel.

ABout the only thing that can make a low voltage, low current sensor go BOOM is a build up of combustible gasses. Basically thats excess fuel in the exhaust or crankcase. Check the PCV system to see if its working and make sure the O2 Sensor is good- the oil will load up with fuel if it fails.

About the only connection between "ignition" and "sensor" in the picture is maybe a spark arc jumping to the sensor, but thats a low energy spark. Even if the sensor has 12 Volts from the battery, I doubt it would explode.

I assume thats a knock sensor but I cant see it. If water comes out when its removed, its a coolant sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for shedding some light on my situation. I've been tied up trying to get back and messing with it but worried I'll be killing it.

The sensor is Engine Coolant thermostat that's feed 5v, I noticed moisture all over it and assume water shorted the backside of the connector and shorted the connection.

Given the ware on that cap would it be beneficial to replace the full distributor or could that contamination be from a cheap china part?

Really do appreciate the input as my smog and registration are due this month.
 

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ITs from contamination inside the cap, unless... the cap is cracked. High voltage likes to follow cracks. Ive used aftermarket caps for years without any problem.

Such parts are made in very high volume and with high volume manufacturing, they cant afford to have quality problems or they get a lot of returns.

Always inspect the parts closely before installing them- look for debris or cracks. I always wash the new cap and button with carb cleaner and let it DRY before installing it.
Push the little rotor button in and out (if its supposed to move) to make sure its not stuck.

Or if you want to blow the cap off the distrubutor, put it back on with carb cleaner in it!

No need to change the distributor UNLESS its leaking crankcase gasses into the space below the cap. Look at the shaft where it comes up thru the distributor body- is it dirty looking?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just had a quick second to see that one screw hole is cracked on the distributor, it holds well but possibly could be the source of issues I'm experiencing.

I'll just keep at it and update the thread in hopes of helping others and myself understand how this works.
 

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Why not just put a new temp sending unit in it instead of messing around with resistors. 150* isn't hot enough.
 
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Just had a quick second to see that one screw hole is cracked on the distributor, it holds well but possibly could be the source of issues I'm experiencing.

I'll just keep at it and update the thread in hopes of helping others and myself understand how this works.
Dorman makes a fix for that..kinda like a clamp.
 

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Definitely put a temp sensor in, the ECM wont work correctly without it-. The ECM senses temperature to know when to start reading the O2 sensor to indicate fuel mixture. It also controls charging voltage.

A cracked screw hole in the distributor, if its the one that holds the cap, wont cause that problem. If it lets moisture in (and the picture suggests that) then thats bad. Ive put a strip of PVC electrical tape on the rim of the distributor to help seal the cap.

PS Ive run a 170 F thermostat in my 95 for years, works really well and gives some warning ahead of time if its gonna heat up to 210F...
 

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JTC97SONOMA
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Thank you for shedding some light on my situation. I've been tied up trying to get back and messing with it but worried I'll be killing it.

The sensor is Engine Coolant thermostat that's feed 5v, I noticed moisture all over it and assume water shorted the backside of the connector and shorted the connection.

Given the ware on that cap would it be beneficial to replace the full distributor or could that contamination be from a cheap china part?

Really do appreciate the input as my smog and registration are due this month.
I HAVE TO REPLACE CAP AND ROTOR ONCE A YEAR ON MY 1997 GMC SONOMA 4.3L. PRONE TO CORROSION ESPECIALLY HERE IN FLORIDA. I USE EITHER DELCO OR ACCEL PARTS, NO CHEAP CAP/ROTOR. JTC1133
 

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I HAVE TO REPLACE CAP AND ROTOR ONCE A YEAR ON MY 1997 GMC SONOMA 4.3L. PRONE TO CORROSION ESPECIALLY HERE IN FLORIDA. I USE EITHER DELCO OR ACCEL PARTS, NO CHEAP CAP/ROTOR. JTC1133

Your "caps" key is stuck....please fix it.
 

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I HAVE TO REPLACE CAP AND ROTOR ONCE A YEAR ON MY 1997 GMC SONOMA 4.3L. PRONE TO CORROSION ESPECIALLY HERE IN FLORIDA. I USE EITHER DELCO OR ACCEL PARTS, NO CHEAP CAP/ROTOR. JTC1133
Seal the cap with gasket compound or PVC tape. Moisture gets in as the cap is not tight with the distributor body. Gasket compound makes it more difficult to remove, but the idea is to fix it so it doesnt have to be removed often. Also make sure there isnt a big vent in the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So back to the BEAST.
She seems extremely dead, checked fuses and all seem fine with DMM.
Battery voltage 11.98v on terminals.
Prior to Ignition CEL is very dim and temp sensor jumps all over crazy. Voltage on dash gauge jups to 9 then drops out.
The thermal sensor has not been replaced or removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Battery was dead as dirt,
O'Reilly dudes charged it up and shows a fault.
Had enough power to get her running but revving up and down crazy.

PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve Cover must have popped off as i found it ajar when searching for vacuum problems.

Thank you everyone.
 
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