[Beatups10]

2000 s10 2wd 2.2
So first a little background; instrument cluster stopped working and transmission began to have shifting problems. Stuck in higher gear. It was throwing a bunch of codes to the transmission solenoids. Found blown fuse to cluster. Replaced fuse and it blew again. Found 2 broken wires in harness going to ecm. Fixed that now I have instrument panel working except prndl and odometer. They come on between lock and run but go off in run. No codes now for transmission but still not shifting. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[bk2life]

Found 2 broken wires in harness going to ecm

Any help would be appreciated.

sounds like you need to find the other broken wiring.. did an animal eat it? how does one get so many breaks in their wires?

 

[Beatups10]

No sign of an animal. One wire was a clean cut and the other was almost into. Only had the truck a couple months, but it was shifting fine.

 

[aitch]

No sign of an animal. One wire was a clean cut and the other was almost into. Only had the truck a couple months, but it was shifting fine.

Could you post pictures?

 

[Beatups10]

You want pictures of the harness?

 

[Beatups10]

So I changed filter and fluid. No sign of metal in the pan. No change still the same not shifting while in drive.

 

[Beatups10]

Could you post pictures?

 

[Rhotpursuit]

View attachment 369877

This is a problem waiting to happen. Solder and shrink tubing would be a better choice.

 

[aitch]

This is a problem waiting to happen. Solder and shrink tubing would be a better choice.

Well.... those are a step up from wire nuts, and they are even insulated! They look like the cheap hard plastic jacket type that are so pervasive, and commonly available 'everywhere'. If soldering isn't an option, at least use the (marine grade) waterproof crimp connectors that have the heat shrink jacket/ sleeves. That type is also readily available and it's also important to match the connector size with the wire gauge.

 

[Beatups10]

I appreciate your wiring suggestions. That was what I had when I found the broken wires and so I used them. What I really need though is help with my transmission.

 

[Tranzman]

Might want to start all over in the transmission section. Sounds like limp mode... Scan for a VSS signal first. no VSS = no shift!

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Moved to Transmission/Rearend.

 

[Tranzman]

Limp mode is 3rd gear only with manual 2nd when selected. Limp mode is because there is no power to pin "E". The ignition switch supplies the power to the trans fuse, that fuse allows to power to get to pin "E".
The fuse is in the in cab fuse box. 1999-2004 it should be fuse # 15.
The instrument cluster fuse is #4.
Pin "E" supplies power to the shift solenoids, TCC solenoid & 3-2 solenoid.
The PCM supplies the ground to make the solenoids change states.

 

[Beatups10]

I have 14 volts on both side of fuse #4 and fuse #15 with truck running. Doing a little something different now. I can manually shift into 2nd and 1st. If I take off in 2nd I can then manually shift into 3rd at about 25mph or 3500 rpm. And I can then shift into drive and get 4th gear around 40 mph. Then if I slow down the scanner reads downshifts until 1st but it doesn’t go into gear and the engine just revs up.

 

[Tranzman]

The S10 trucks are hard on forward clutches. They either wear the lining off the plates or strip the teeth. So if you have any forward ranges, the forward clutch is working. If the forward clutch was not working, it would not move forward.

There are least two elements that are used for every gear.

In 1st the forward clutch applies & holds the input sprag. The low roller holds and causes the gear-train to have the 3.06 low gear.
In 2nd the forward clutch stays applied, holding the input sprag. the 2-4 band is applied causing the 1.62 2nd gear. the low roller overruns.
3rd gear the forward clutch stays applied, holding the input sprag. the 3-4 clutch applies causing a direct 1.1 gear. the low roller overruns, 2-4 band is released
4th the forward clutch is on, 3-4 clutch is on & the 2-4 band is reapplied. this causes the input sprag to overrun and the combo gives a .7:1 overdrive ratio.
Manual 1st uses a combo of the overrun clutch, forward clutch & input sprag for more holding capacity up front. The low/reverse clutch is applied making the low roller ineffective.
Manual 2 uses the overrun, forward & input sprag combo for the additional holding capacity. The 2-4 band is applied for the 1.62 gear ratio.
Manual 3 is the same as OD range but limits the shifts to 1, 2, 3 only

So if you have M2, 3 & 4th gears and can select M1 @ 15-20mph and feel the gear change. I would say the Low roller is broken. I would do a pan drop and see if the pan & magnet has debris on it

 

[Beatups10]

I dropped the pan and changed fluid. No metal on the magnet. Fluid was rough but I didn’t see any metal

 

[Tranzman]

if it is being command first gear and doesn't have it. it is one of 4 things.
1) shift solenoid bad
2) 1-2 shift valve
3) TFP switch showing 2nd
4) broken low roller

 

[Beatups10]

in drive it will not down shift successfully to any gear. How do I check the solenoid?

 

[Beatups10]

So shift solenoid 1-2 comes on when I shift into 1st and 2-3 comes on when I go to 2nd. Neither come on while in drive

 

[PeteD]

This is a problem waiting to happen. Solder and shrink tubing would be a better choice.

Ya you wont see corrosion thats bound to happen inside those crimps.