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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Replaced the battery in my truck and the Temp and Fuel Gauges went limp.
Any suggestions?

350579
 

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2003 GMC Sonoma SLS extended cab 4.3L auto 4x4
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Limp gauges can be remedied with a heathy dose of Viagra! 馃お
 

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Hopefully you didn't switch batteries with the key left on. That can kill a PCM.
Since the fuel and temp are sent to the instrument cluster via Class 2 Serial Data on 99 up trucks I don't believe there is any fuses directly involved. But it would not hurt to check every single one in both panels. Maybe one of the ECM fuses is blown and shutting off part of the computer. See pic for most likely ones, but it could be anyone.
Knowing the exact year and which engine, so we know which computer would help.
350582
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the tips! I will be checking it all out. More infoabout my situation. I had it running, with a battery that was under preforming and a battery charger. I know all the gauges worked at that time, because the fuel gauge was on empty and I put 5 gallons in, flipped the key, saw fuel register on the gauge. I went to go start it again without the battery charger on and it wouldn't so that when I pulled the battery.

Could charging a battery (2amp charger) while the truck was running cause something like this? The gauges worked after I took the battery charger off though. Alternator is good and was and still is pushing 14.1VDC
 

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Doubt a 2 amp charger could cause any issues.
Still can't help diagnose w/o knowing year and engine.
 

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Check continuity with an ohm meter between C1 (the blue connector) pin 59 and pin A6 at the instrument cluster. You'll need to extend the meters probes a few feet to reach that far. I usually clamp one probe onto a 10' piece of 20-22ga insulated wire and use the end of that as that probe.
That's how the fuel and temp gauges get their info (data).
350626
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
[QU
Check continuity with an ohm meter between C1 (the blue connector) pin 59 and pin A6 at the instrument cluster. You'll need to extend the meters probes a few feet to reach that far. I usually clamp one probe onto a 10' piece of 20-22ga insulated wire and use the end of that as that probe.
That's how the fuel and temp gauges get their info (data).
View attachment 350626
OTE="oldeerslayer, post: 12280668, member: 270313"]
Check continuity with an ohm meter between C1 (the blue connector) pin 59 and pin A6 at the instrument cluster. You'll need to extend the meters probes a few feet to reach that far. I usually clamp one probe onto a 10' piece of 20-22ga insulated wire and use the end of that as that probe.
That's how the fuel and temp gauges get their info (data).
View attachment 350626
[/QUOTE]
Where do I find C1 and A6? The bottom of engine compartment fuse block and the instrument cluster connector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update gas gauge started working when I drove it out of my driveway. Temp gauge was still limp.
I was doing trouble shooting and disconnected. When I connected the batter both gauges were limp. I started the truck and now the temp gauge is working.

I must looking for a bad ground or loose connection? Right?
 

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Update gas gauge started working when I drove it out of my driveway. Temp gauge was still limp.
I was doing trouble shooting and disconnected. When I connected the batter both gauges were limp. I started the truck and now the temp gauge is working.

I must looking for a bad ground or loose connection? Right?
Good place to start. You have a tester to pull codes? My 88 got it in its head to make the gas gauge go from e to f continually a couple days ago. Filled it up with fuel ,and it settled down.One time i bought a new battery and the post were backwards on my sierra. Taught me an expensive lesson that I will not soon forget. My 03 s10 does weird gauge stuff monthly. Usually self healing. hook a test light to POS + and check all you're neg- wires ,and the frame , body . can do it with a multi-meter as well.
 
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