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Discussion Starter #1
Been a GM guy all my life, but due to a twist of fate I ended up with a 1987 Bronco II, with a 2.9L in it.
I have been offered a 1987 S-15 Jimmy as a straight across trade.
The 2.9 is suppose to have 145hp and 150 ftlbs of torque.
How does the 2.8 compare?
Only owned chev 350's in the past so don't know what to expect, from the 2.8
 

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The 2.9L Bronco is probably a little more peppy than the Jimmy, but the 2.9L's crack heads notoriously, and at least in my experence are a good bit harder to find parts for. Engine compartment is pretty darn tight in the Bronco II compared to in an s-10 (some of that is all of the multi-port stuff).

It would really depend on the condition of the two trucks. 1987 is a pretty good year for a Jimmy, in that the 700-R4 had been improved, the engine would have the larger main bearings, TBI, and serpentine belts. The engine externals (like the EFI system and accessories), the transmission, t-case, etc and would be quite similar to a full size GM truck of the same years, so if you're familar with those, it might be a plus. Rear axle is probably 7.5", same as a good number of Camaros of the same vintage. Parts like water pumps, alternators, sensors, etc are cheap because GM used most of them in a bunch of other applications too.


As far as I know, the only really common problem with a TBI 2.8 is the power steering bracket breaking...perhaps some engines have trouble with intake manifold sealing, but it seems pretty unusual. Oh, there maybe some common nickel and dime problems like the lift glass rattling and the door handles wearing out. Some people have minor wiring issues from chafing under the carpet in the driver's side footwell. If noone has told you yet, you'll have to reach in from the wheel well to change the oil filter (it is easier if you use a PF52 filter).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks
expected the nickle and dime stuff after all it is a 16 year old vehicle.
How is the Jimmy off road, can I expect decent performance?
 

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Well, I had a Bronco II before my Jimmy, and they were reasonably similar. TIt would depend heavily on what type of driving you're planning on, what vehicals are equiped with, and what improvements you plan on. If you're not going to lift it, and you're just looking to throw on some AT tires and drive it...assuming relatively Identical trucks, I'd take the S-10. Find out what the gear ratios are on the two trucks, whether either has a Limited slip or locker, skidplates, etc.



The Bronco had Ford's bastardized version of an independant front suspension, while the S-10's have an actual A-arm/ Torsion bar/ CV-joint style. On one hand, this gives you shift on the fly, better highway manners, and much less stuff hanging down in the front. The downside is that the S-10's depend on a vaccum switch in the t-case sending vaccum to an acutator (by the battey) that pulls a cable that "locks" the front axle. It isn't as bad as it sounds, I've only had one problem with a vaccum line rotting, and, if that happens, you have just stick a c-clamp or similar on the acutator to engage the front axle lock.

The NP207 t-case, drive shafts and axles are pretty tough on the s-10's, i've certainly beat on mine quite a bit. My Bronco had a C-5 3-speed transmission which was inferior in gearing to the 700-R4 in my Jimmy: I don't know much about how the manual transmissions would stack up. The S-10's do have CV-joints and the rubber boots, but they seem to last pretty well, and entire rebuilt exhange axles are pretty cheap if it comes to that.






On the Bronco II, hopefully you'll have manual hubs, the automatic ones are a little on the finicky and weak side. You will have to tear down the hubs and grease the front bearings at a minimun of once a year (that's if you don't get it into water much) ...the automatice ones are an even bigger pain to deal with. In contrast, the orignal, sealed, factory wheel bearings on my Jimmy are at 182k and still fine.

It isn't really objective, but the S-10's seem "cleaner" underneath: my Bronco II had the front differential, the oil filter, muffler, etc hanging down more that my Jimmy...it is something that has helped give a little peace of mind a couple of times.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No they are auto hubs but I can change them over to manual for under $50.
I have never had an auto 4x4, always standard.
How do you find the 700-R4 off road?
90% of my driving is going to be on road, so my main concern with the auto tranny is how it works off-road.
The Jimmy has a 2 inch body lift and is running 31's on it and I really don't plan on doing to much more to it.
Thanks again for the input
 

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The 700R4 isn't bad off road: it has a pretty low first gear (~3:1), and seems to behave its self pretty well about not gear hunting, etc. As you probably know, 700r4's get swapped into all kinds of 4x4's with Advanced Adaptors mounts, so the general consensus is that they're pretty good in off road applications. Your mileage may vary.

Overall, it will depend on what you do with it: a 2.8 Jimmy, especially with 31" tires (hope it has 3.73+ gears!) will be anemic on hills, both on the interstate, and off road. I live in the midwest, where it is relatively flat, and the 2.8/700R4 works great for me.
 

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I have a friend with a Jimmy SHE won't part with it because it is just too reliable.

It's really hard to kill a Jimmy. I'd go GM
 

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difference:
ones and ford and the others a GM. :end:
 

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bronco 2s are junk the 2.9 engine is not even a good paper weight i had two of them and know alot of others that had the bronco 2s and none of us will ever make that mistake .... the push button 4X4 is crap the front axel is a staight axel with no suspension ..in other words it will rattel your teeth on and off road compare to the jimmy wich has A arm and CV axels that are easy and cheap to fix.. after you get a few miles on that 2.9 bronco it will begin to sound like a deisle the notorious ford lifter tap will get very loud...also for some reason ford had alot of problems with fuel pressure regulators going bad...also if the fuel pump ever needs changed plan on a new fuel tank as well due to the plastic skid plate over the tank wich holds water and other stuff causing the tank to rust and become very brittle when disturbing it to put in a new pump..... all in all if your a GM guy stick with what you know remember this F-O-R-D Fix Or Repair Daily
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You got it all wrong

F***in
Owners
R
Dumb

Didn't trade the day of the trade the guy had altinator troubles
a couple days later he blew the main bearings
so for now i keep the ford
 
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