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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 96 lt1 5 speed camaro, I'm wanting to put it into my 93 2.8l 5 speed s10. I need more assistance as to which motor mounts to use. I read alot about the 2.8 being good mounts for a 350, but I've also heard an lt1 would need different mounts due to the engine needing to be to the rear or the motor mounts. The camaro is a full donor atm, so I have parts to swap over, just need more assistance as to which mounts to get to make this a easier swap. Being that I would like to have the same transmission as in the camaro I am also wondering if the shifters would line up in the same location as well as if it will need a new transmission mount. Thanks
 

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The LT1 is an 58-98 SBC so any aftermarket mounts designed for 2.8 frame cushions will work. I've used that combo for everything from 305 to 454. And have those lowers under an LS engine also.
Advance Adapters 713111 are the best ones made for your swap. Avoid any that have a square hole in the passengers side mount. That style moves the engine to the right and makes it more difficult than necessary.
All 89 up S10's have the steering shaft moved over to clear the 4.3 option so there is no need to move the engine toward the pass side.
Here's a good deal on the AA mounts you need:
If you want to do it cheaper here's the same thing in a DIY welding kit. From the looks of them it wouldn't take a rocket scientist to position the tabs correctly. I'd use a piece of threaded rod with 4 nuts and washers to hold the side pieces apart slightly above spec during welding to prevent heat buildup from moving the 2 sides closer together at the top. Steel will move when heated if you let it.

The Camaro World Class T5 shifter mounts 9.25 inches farther back than the S10 non WC version.
Here's how to swap tail sections and farther down is a discussion about getting the speedo to work on the hybrid T5 you created. Personally I'd use the 2.8 trans till it acts up from being abused. When that is, is up to you.
The 96 LT1 is an OBD II engine so you'll have some wiring to do, but since it's a 5 speed it won't be too bad.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The LT1 is an 58-98 SBC so any aftermarket mounts designed for 2.8 frame cushions will work. I've used that combo for everything from 305 to 454. And have those lowers under an LS engine also.
Advance Adapters 713111 are the best ones made for your swap. Avoid any that have a square hole in the passengers side mount. That style moves the engine to the right and makes it more difficult than necessary.
All 89 up S10's have the steering shaft moved over to clear the 4.3 option so there is no need to move the engine toward the pass side.
Here's a good deal on the AA mounts you need:
If you want to do it cheaper here's the same thing in a DIY welding kit. From the looks of them it wouldn't take a rocket scientist to position the tabs correctly. I'd use a piece of threaded rod with 4 nuts and washers to hold the side pieces apart slightly above spec during welding to prevent heat buildup from moving the 2 sides closer together at the top. Steel will move when heated if you let it.

The Camaro World Class T5 shifter mounts 9.25 inches farther back than the S10 non WC version.
Here's how to swap tail sections and farther down is a discussion about getting the speedo to work on the hybrid T5 you created. Personally I'd use the 2.8 trans till it acts up from being abused. When that is, is up to you.
The 96 LT1 is an OBD II engine so you'll have some wiring to do, but since it's a 5 speed it won't be too bad.
I think you missed a link on the how to swap tail sections. The motor mounts you linked would bolt straight to the frame?
 

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Oops. Here's the link. It's quite lengthy but if you read the whole thing carefully you'll learn a lot.
When you remove your 2.8 by pulling the 2 bolts out that secure the motor to the frame there will be a lower mount still bolted to the frame with 3 bolts on each side. That is the lower half of the 2.8 mount and is what most V8 mounts are designed to bolt to with one long bolt thru each upper and lower. The engine half and the frame half which has a rubber cushion inside of it to eliminate vibration.
In this picture the 2.8 frame half cushion shown is already in your truck. So all you need is the steel upper which bolts to the block and the 2 long bolts to hold the halves together when you lower the engine on to the lowers. The part in the lower right corner is already in 2.8 S10's.

347151

It wouldn't be a bad idea at this point to read all the posts in V8 section of the forum. Again, you'll learn a lot and the more you know before you start the less time and money will get wasted. You wouldn't believe the pile of useless parts I've accumulated in 25 years of engine swaps because I didn't know there was a better way.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oops. Here's the link. It's quite lengthy but if you read the whole thing carefully you'll learn a lot.
When you remove your 2.8 by pulling the 2 bolts out that secure the motor to the frame there will be a lower mount still bolted to the frame with 3 bolts on each side. That is the lower half of the 2.8 mount and is what most V8 mounts are designed to bolt to with one long bolt thru each upper and lower. The engine half and the frame half which has a rubber cushion inside of it to eliminate vibration.
In this picture the 2.8 frame half cushion shown is already in your truck. So all you need is the steel upper which bolts to the block and the 2 long bolts to hold the halves together when you lower the engine on to the lowers. The part in the lower right corner is already in 2.8 S10's.

View attachment 347151
It wouldn't be a bad idea at this point to read all the posts in V8 section of the forum. Again, you'll learn a lot and the more you know before you start the less time and money will get wasted. You wouldn't believe the pile of useless parts I've accumulated in 25 years of engine swaps because I didn't know there was a better way.
Awesome, now that settles the engine and transmission placement then. I'll get started on that and when I get to the wiring or get stuck, I'll be back on the post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oops. Here's the link. It's quite lengthy but if you read the whole thing carefully you'll learn a lot.
When you remove your 2.8 by pulling the 2 bolts out that secure the motor to the frame there will be a lower mount still bolted to the frame with 3 bolts on each side. That is the lower half of the 2.8 mount and is what most V8 mounts are designed to bolt to with one long bolt thru each upper and lower. The engine half and the frame half which has a rubber cushion inside of it to eliminate vibration.
In this picture the 2.8 frame half cushion shown is already in your truck. So all you need is the steel upper which bolts to the block and the 2 long bolts to hold the halves together when you lower the engine on to the lowers. The part in the lower right corner is already in 2.8 S10's.

View attachment 347151
It wouldn't be a bad idea at this point to read all the posts in V8 section of the forum. Again, you'll learn a lot and the more you know before you start the less time and money will get wasted. You wouldn't believe the pile of useless parts I've accumulated in 25 years of engine swaps because I didn't know there was a better way.
I guess I have one more question, as far as wiring goes, would everything wire into the existing pedals or would there need to be modifications ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The LT1 is an 58-98 SBC so any aftermarket mounts designed for 2.8 frame cushions will work. I've used that combo for everything from 305 to 454. And have those lowers under an LS engine also.
Advance Adapters 713111 are the best ones made for your swap. Avoid any that have a square hole in the passengers side mount. That style moves the engine to the right and makes it more difficult than necessary.
All 89 up S10's have the steering shaft moved over to clear the 4.3 option so there is no need to move the engine toward the pass side.
Here's a good deal on the AA mounts you need:
If you want to do it cheaper here's the same thing in a DIY welding kit. From the looks of them it wouldn't take a rocket scientist to position the tabs correctly. I'd use a piece of threaded rod with 4 nuts and washers to hold the side pieces apart slightly above spec during welding to prevent heat buildup from moving the 2 sides closer together at the top. Steel will move when heated if you let it.

The Camaro World Class T5 shifter mounts 9.25 inches farther back than the S10 non WC version.
Here's how to swap tail sections and farther down is a discussion about getting the speedo to work on the hybrid T5 you created. Personally I'd use the 2.8 trans till it acts up from being abused. When that is, is up to you.
The 96 LT1 is an OBD II engine so you'll have some wiring to do, but since it's a 5 speed it won't be too bad.
It's actually a six speed t56 lt1 version, I guess it's a bit different than a regular t56. Would it still need the tailshaft replaced with a t5?
 

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That won't work. IIRC the 6 speed shifter can be moved, but I seem to recall it being expensive. Do a Google search for LT1 6 speed shifter. You can always do bucket seats and a modded or no console.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That won't work. IIRC the 6 speed shifter can be moved, but I seem to recall it being expensive. Do a Google search for LT1 6 speed shifter. You can always do bucket seats and a modded or no console.
Well with that being said I'm sure if I just cut a hole to relocate it and get another center console with bucket seats as you suggest should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That won't work. IIRC the 6 speed shifter can be moved, but I seem to recall it being expensive. Do a Google search for LT1 6 speed shifter. You can always do bucket seats and a modded or no console.
I found a kit that would actually help relocate my shifter from the t56 tail end to the center of the t56 so now I have to mock up motor and transmission and hope that the relocation kit puts the shifter where I need it.
 

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Got a link to that kit?
 

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That's the one I was thinking of or the same as. Like I said $400 is a bit O'cash. But since it's a $2K used trans I guess it's appropriate and it does include a shorter throw. If you like/want that.
I'd have spent the money a nice set of leather bucket seats. But it's your truck not mine and your $.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's the one I was thinking of or the same as. Like I said $400 is a bit O'cash. But since it's a $2K used trans I guess it's appropriate and it does include a shorter throw. If you like/want that.
I'd have spent the money a nice set of leather bucket seats. But it's your truck not mine and your $.
I like where the shifter is located in the truck so I would like to keep it in that same area. I dont want to cut a hole and also dont want to have to look for new seats
 
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