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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi everyone, i just got a 85 S10 blazer 2dr with the 2.8 engine. Auto trans Had couple questions.
First, the Smog pump belt has been taken off cause the guy said the pump was clogged up and not working, can I just take it completely off the truck and all of the smog stuff to go with it? In my state if its older then 15 yrs you don't have to have emissions anyways, plus the county i live in we don't have to have them on any car or truck.

Also the AC doesn't work so i was thinking of just taking that belt off, to give the motor some more power, Would this really help anything?
I used to do this on my older cars used to have.

I like to just clean up things under the hood, lots of hoses have been capped off and or hoses are missing. seems should be able to get rid of lot of stuff.

the air filter has some hoese missing and the exaust manifold on the driver side i noticed used to have a hose on it, cause there is no hose now just a opening. maybe I could cap that off too? would love to get headers but that is out of my price right now.

truck cranks up great, it sat all night lastnight and all day today, i pressed the gas 3 times, turned the key and fired right up... but it runs ruff, I think cause of some vacuum lines, once it warms up its fine.


I admit its been a while since i have had a older car or truck, I drove my 97 mustang v6 for past yr before that had a 4.3 96 blazer for 8 yrs.
Used to have a 76 C10 pickup with 350 but it ran great. only had alternator and water pump no ac or anything else on the engine. so easy to work on and i did put headers on it.

Thanks for any tips,advice, info
 

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If you don't have to deal with smog testing then remove the pump & cap/plug the hoses.

You can remove the A/C belt if it doesn't drive anything else.

An old carbed engine will likely have some cracked/loose/missing vacuum hoses. You can replace as needed.
 

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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man, I think I will remove it then... less stuff = Good stuff i say.
I think your the only member reading my posts, and replying.
 

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4 Year Intermediate Tech
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1,829 Posts
That hose to your manifold is the pre heat hose that goes to a thermovac switch in the air cleaner. It's used to keep the fuel from freezing in the carb in severe cold weather and to help warm the engine quicker. I would get one and put it back on.
 

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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That hose to your manifold is the pre heat hose that goes to a thermovac switch in the air cleaner. It's used to keep the fuel from freezing in the carb in severe cold weather and to help warm the engine quicker. I would get one and put it back on.

oh alright yeah its not on the truck at all... I never heard of that before.
So it does help? I guess in cold cold states its very useful, here in GA 15 degress is very cold for us.
 

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4 Year Intermediate Tech
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1,829 Posts
I'm here in arkansas, on a 20 degree morning it takes a long time to warm up. I used to not have mine on. Would take 15 minutes before the needle would even move off 100. With it on I can reach 185 in 10 minutes on a 32 degree morning and even quicker in 60 degree weather. I've had my a.i.r system removed but kept the air pump so I didn't have to mess with a new belt size. I also removed the ac pump, ac radiator, ac canister, and replaced the fire wall box with a v8 swap heater box. No real notice in gains of power but it makes for giving you a ton of workspace for the passenger side. I still kept my charcoal canister and egr valve. Also took the steel lines out of the exhaust manifold and put pipe plugs in them.
 

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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
oh thanks for info, i see about getting a hose.
i removed lots today and got all hoses pluged up.
not removed smog pump yet cant figure out how yet guess have to remove alternator first.

had to work on brake line today maybe tomorrow. drove it down rd today it just has no power, it seems to have some vibtation/shacking to it. not sure what ould be.

the exhaust pipe is not welded about even with front floorboard to the muffler could it be loosing pressure cause of that?
 

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4 Year Intermediate Tech
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Always seal the exhaust with welds. Except where the collectors have a donut gasket. I hope when you pulled all those hoses you didn't disconnect the ported vacuum line for you distributors advance. Also make sure you didn't pull the hose to your secondary vacuum break on the carb
 

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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Always seal the exhaust with welds. Except where the collectors have a donut gasket. I hope when you pulled all those hoses you didn't disconnect the ported vacuum line for you distributors advance. Also make sure you didn't pull the hose to your secondary vacuum break on the carb

Looks like someone wanted to get rid of the Cat convertor so they cut it and stuck pipe back up there but guess they used what they had, its 3 pieces of pipe one is not but maybe 2 inches long, all stuck together. I can turn by hand all of them. where they go into the muffler...

The truck runs better now with all hoses plugged up had some vacum lecks before, I finally got the smog pump off yesterday and found another loose hose , it was the one from the pass side vaulve cover, im guessing the way its shaped it plugs into the front big fitting on the air cleaner so thats where i put it. the back air filter hose already was caped off

Not sure I have noticed the lines for the distributor or not, but as far as i know i have not messed with any going to it.

There is a line that goes from the driver side of the carb to the pass side back of the carb, it hooks to a round looking thing, ( I think maybe the choke )

Do you know of a drawing that shows the carb and points to hoses and what they are for?
Maybe I will take a picture and post it. I really need to get a hynes manual for this truck but I'm broke right now.

Thanks for the info
 

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4 Year Intermediate Tech
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The tube that plugs into the valve cover on the drivers side is the positive crankcase ventilation, it sends vapors and gasses that get past the ring and moisture burn off to be recycled back through the firing chamber. The fittings on the back of the air cleaner are supposed to give vacuum to the thermal vacuum switch that opens a vent for the preheat hose during cold start. As it gets hot the green sensor in the air bowl closes off the plate so it gets air from the front. Take some pictures and post them. They always help. I should be able to tell you what your looking for if your 85 is anything like mine.
 

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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh okay the one on the driver side is the pcv valve. its plugged up.
I was about to take pics and my camera wouldn't work, now its broke. maybe i will try to take some pics with my laptop when the weather gets nice again (raining now)

I looked really good today and the vacuum for the distributor is still hooked up. I didn't even notice it before cause its so buried.

I did find out that I need a new distributor cab I guess, the passenger side bolt is not getting tight so the distributor is loose on one side, surprised it runs as well as it does. the screw for it is all messed up

Thanks for the info
 

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Boozebag
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10,091 Posts
Suggestion:
Make sure your PCV is still functioning. One side of the valve cover outlet goes to the air filter housing, the other valve cover outlet attaches the PCV. This is a good thing to have functioning, it removes bad vapors/combustion moisture from inside of the engine.
 

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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Suggestion:
Make sure your PCV is still functioning. One side of the valve cover outlet goes to the air filter housing, the other valve cover outlet attaches the PCV. This is a good thing to have functioning, it removes bad vapors/combustion moisture from inside of the engine.
Thanks, I keep meaning to take it out and clean it , I keep forgetting, I need to pick up some more brake parts cleaner ( I use it more cause cheaper then carb cleaner most the time)

Just took some pics of under hood and put in my other thread check it out. need find out where some hoses should go .

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f20/1989-s10-blazer-4x4-few-s-512859/#post8107633

This truck cranks up so good, today it was a sunny day but only in the high 40s, i pumped the gas pedal 3 times turned key and it cranked right up.
 

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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks i cleaned it it was nasty.
Also after i drive it I notice when i cut off the engine I hear all kinda noise coming from inside the big black box on pass. side where the heater core I guess is at, its where the tubes for ac and all run into. is this normal on this truck?
 

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4 Year Intermediate Tech
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1,829 Posts
You sure it's not that Frankenstein exhaust rattling around under the floor board?
 

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4 Year Intermediate Tech
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Is it a gurgling bubble noise?
 

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4 Year Intermediate Tech
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Your motor run on the hot side? Check inside the radiator with it cooled down for carbon in the coolant. It normally should be a neon lime green color. If you find carbon in your coolant it could be a head gasket is going bad. Makes the coolant boil. Or you could have air bubbles in the system. Mine made that noise for weeks after I filled for the first start of the rebuild, and when I knocked out a freeze plug in the block to fix a leaky one. Does your resivior for coolant fill up when it gets hot?
 

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Red Dog's Blazer
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352 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Your motor run on the hot side? Check inside the radiator with it cooled down for carbon in the coolant. It normally should be a neon lime green color. If you find carbon in your coolant it could be a head gasket is going bad. Makes the coolant boil. Or you could have air bubbles in the system. Mine made that noise for weeks after I filled for the first start of the rebuild, and when I knocked out a freeze plug in the block to fix a leaky one. Does your resivior for coolant fill up when it gets hot?
As far as know it doesn't run hot, doesn't seem to however not 100% the temp gauge is working, it hardly moves, But the coolant looks good, its green like it is going in, my ressivior is full has been since got the truck. it doesnt seem to get any more or any less filled when i drive it.

the guy said he had just flushed out the rad. and put water back in, I put antifreeze in it as its still cold here ( in the 30s)

it really just sounds like in the box on pass side. is that box just for the AC or is the heater core in there? its a 85, don't know where the heater core is maybe needs replaced? I have not had any water anywhere it shouldn't be, no water in oil or anything like that it doesn't leak water, just oil from valve covers
 
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