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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If anyone has a set of the Edelbrock 6897 headers and Y-pipe laying around, I'm interested. Headman seems to make the only headers for this truck these days, but it's for manual shift only, and I'd rather not take the risk of buying them and seeing if they can be modified to fit.

The Edelbrocks seem to be the "sure bet", but I'm interested in anything that will fit my application...
 

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Without trying to sound sarcastic, why? Will a couple extra HP make a 2.8 4wd feel any quicker? When you add the expense of finishing the exhaust those will be expensive horses. just sayin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So, it looks like the only headers available new for the 2.8L v6 S10 Blazer 4WD are the Hedman 69370 part. Unfortunately, these are not compatible with auto transmission.

Guess which transmission I have?

I can see where the headers probably dump out right where the column shift linkage is.

My question: has anyone successfully modified the shift linkage to provide access for headers (and still been able to reliably shift their auto tranny)?

Any insight is appreciated. I’m very close to just ordering the darned things and figuring it out as I go, but that wouldn’t be the responsible thing to do : )

and please don’t suggest an LS swap :D

thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Without trying to sound sarcastic, why? Will a couple extra HP make a 2.8 4wd feel any quicker? When you add the expense of finishing the exhaust those will be expensive horses. just sayin.
Am doing a top-to-bottom rebuild on the 2.8, because it’s what I’ve got, what I’m comfortable with, and what I want. But doing the mods I’m planning without headers probably makes everything thing else a waste.

I know many view this as a silly thing, but it’s the reality I’m in at this time : )
 

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@Mad Max might be able to point you in the right direction...
 
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Wonder if an aftermarket or maybe even a Blazer floor shifter would help with clearing the header by eliminating the need for that cross rod?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wonder if an aftermarket or maybe even a Blazer floor shifter would help with clearing the header by eliminating the need for that cross rod?
interestingly, they claim it’s not compatible with automatic floor shift. I talked to Hedman yesterday and they were genuinely surprised at that, but they claim it’s (rare, but) legit.

I do appreciate everyone’s input!!
 

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Since the Blazer floor shift is cable operated and exits thru the drivers floor, you should be able to route it out of the way. If you look close, you can see the cable on the left, and how it loops around to the transmission.
347652
 
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I wonder if the older Blazers had that cross rod even with the floor shifter to operate something in the column locking mechanism. They didn't have the manual trans locking lever on the side of the column, so there must have been something there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Interesting! Anyone know when the floor shifters become available (or is that aftermarket)? I'm not sure how that would work on my '88, since there is also a floor-mounted manual 4WD selector there...

I've seen random (older) posts where folks complain that the auto trans linkage is in the way of their headers.... then they say that they managed to "work around it" - but not how

I gotta think it's not too crazy to modify the shift linkage to work around the exhaust. It's only a 2D motion. But I'd of course prefer if I could find an example of someone who's actually done it before. I could just bolt a piece of strap iron right onto the shift bracket and come up through the footwell like a grip shift... :ROFLMAO:
 

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I have a set of Patriot headers on my '87 S-10 Blazer, 2.8 RWD. I ordered them painted, then installed plugs on the outside of the A.I.R. bungs and ground off the part that hung down into the header tubes. I test fit them, tack welded the reducers on, removed them and welded them all the way around. Then I had them coated. I fabricated a 2 1/2" mandrel system with a Flomaster muffler and full length exhaust. It sounded great; most people thought that I had a V-8 in it. I also have a Fex-a-lite electric fan, made specifically for the 1st gen S-10s. It eliminates the factory belt driven fan. Between that, the headers and eliminating the a.i.r. pump, it picked up on gas mileage and power. Anything that you can do to help these 2.8s is worth it. They are so anemic.;)
 

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Boozebag
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Once again, thanks for the tag MBP.
The cross over pipe is way different for the auto. I made it work on the Redneeck truck, but it requires some major cutting/welding.
It can work, (I did) but you need to have the equipment and skills (skills I don't have) so it can work.
I have pix somewhere, and as usual, not at this moment. Too many computers and storage files.
You can make it work if you try, but a lift and good equipment is required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Once again, thanks for the tag MBP.
And thank YOU, again, for providing insight to one of my silly questions!

I was going to have a local shop fab a crossover pipe. So I’m more concerned with the column shifting linkage, whether it will interfere, and are there workarounds? Edelbrock seemed to have a solution for the auto, but I think I’m stuck with the Headman flavor, and I’m wondering what has to be modded to make them work...
 

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Boozebag
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^^^ It was a long time ago, but you are correct now that you mention the shift linkage.
I installed a B&M floor shifter to eliminate the linkage from the column shifter.
The headers aren't the problem of fitment. They fit fine. The cross over pipe to the "Y" is where the issue is.
I had to lengthen the crossover and connect to the Y section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just in case anyone was wondering... ironically, I managed to find someone selling the complete Edelbrock 2.8 header setup, new in box, less than 10 minutes from my house! These are the ceramic coated versions. Still had the Summit shipping label from 2010.

I got a fair price. It doesn't look like they will flow as well as the Headman, but I know they will fit up to everything like stock. I think they will be plenty OK for the mods I'm doing. Plus, I like having the heat riser for the intake. It's plumbed for AIR, but I can just drop some plugs into the openings.

Can't believe I found one. Thank you all for your feedback and supprt!

--Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
After you install the plugs on the outside, be sure and grind away the bungs/plugs hanging into the ports on the inside. They are very restrictive.
So, with all the parts shortages lately, I’m finally getting to the point of being able to finish up this rebuild.

I’ve been porting/polishing the heads (polishing the CCs and exhaust ports, but leaving intakes relatively rough).

When I looked to port matching the exhaust, I noticed that there is quite a lot of weld bead inside the pipes where they are attached to the flange. I would like to grind this bead flush with the insides of the header pipes to improve flow. However, there doesn’t seem to be a lot of weld holding these things together. There is almost zero evidence of weld on the outside of the header flange, and certainly no filet as I’m used to seeing on the outside of headers.

Looking for opinions…. If I open things up by grinding this weld flush on the inside, do you think I’m asking for trouble? Should I strip things back and apply a filet around the outside of the pipes where they meet the flange?

or am I overthinking things?

thanks in advance!
 

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Wrong area for discussion...needs to be moved to 2.8/3.4
 
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