[lesterl]

Block is longer on the truck IIRC.... Head is backwards? I thought Fierros used a RWD block not a FWD? If so, then starter will be on wrong side, bellhousing AFAIK should be ok (both use GM 60* housing) - the only thing with that is the bell housing will be setup to take starter on opposite side, but other than that IDK..... Good luck, the block can be redrilled for the starter on opposite side, you might be able to redrill mount holes in the block if they are cast in the right spot.....

 

[chevy-boy]

mafia---

If the motor mounts all carry the same part number, then it should drop in. The two engines are physically the same size.

But I have read that sometime in there, about 92 or 93, GM changed the plug-in for the injector. They went to a new, improved version. I DO know that a Code A injector carries a different part number and has a different receptacle on it. So what could that mean? It might mean that GM changed them ALL, so that your Code E harness would not work. If it only means that they changed just that one connector, then you could steal the one from the Code A donor rig, and splice it into your harness.

Knowing that the Code A injector was "different" I tried to find out if it had a higher flow rate, and there was the greater HP...I could not find it on any flow charts ???

so i got a 1985 and it says fuel injected im gonna look at the harness but how do i chip it and does it have an ecu

 

[lesterl]

You either pay someone to burn a chip, or burn one yourself with some pricy equipment, not much improvement that can be made tho from what some say... Eddie says the best bang for the buck is a 180* Stat, I agree..... Efans could help.

 

[Steady Eddie]

You either pay someone to burn a chip, or burn one yourself with some pricy equipment, not much improvement that can be made tho from what some say... Eddie says the best bang for the buck is a 180* Stat, I agree..... Efans could help.

===

Yes, the 180* t-stat mod really works. It keeps the Duke's engine timing near fully advanced, all of the time, while the programmed-in spark retard is still functional. If your truck has a non-clutch fan, or a clutch fan that does not work, then the e-fan option is out there. But I much prefer the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid) and try to use the parts that are already engineered into the truck.

If you do not currently have the 180* t-stat installed, then run these tests: How hot is it really running on a warm day?? Check the coolant temperature right at the neck where the t-stat lives. Use an IR heat gun probe. If it is near 200* F. with the stock 195* t-stat, then it is TOO hot for stable timing. Put your timing light on it, without shorting the ALDL. Aim it right at the timing marks. Does the timing jump around?? Does the idle speed (ASSuming everything else is OK) follow it?? The Duke should speed up as the timing advances and slow down as it retards. It won't be stable at all, and is the cause of many issues I see posted here.

Toss in a sticky dick head on your EGR valve, and you have a real mess on your hands. The sensors chase this idle speed variance all over the place, and make a bad situation even worse.

Once you install a 180* t-stat, one that has been checked for proper operation, run the timing light check again. The timing will still hop around a bit, but it will be much more stable..good luck..

 

[gwarren007]

Nice info-I suppose that this 180* thermostat couldn't hurt in the AZ desert.

 

[banshee]

The 87 and 88 2.5 s10 the only 2 things on the motor that are inter changeable will be the valve cover, oil pan and maybe the exhaust manifold.....

 

[A-walks]

Hey I have a question about my 87 gmc 2.5 L the tiny pin that goes thru the oil pump shaft that holds the gear in place shreded inside my engine im doing a complete rebuild but i cant find that tiny pin anywhere

 

[87 S10 Owner]

Hey I have a question about my 87 gmc 2.5 L the tiny pin that goes thru the oil pump shaft that holds the gear in place shreded inside my engine im doing a complete rebuild but i cant find that tiny pin anywhere

You probably won't the small pieces have hopefully lodged themselves into the oil pump pick-up screen. Recommend replacing the pick-up tube, oil pump, and get a new oil pump driveshaft & gear. Both come with a new roll-pin that holds the 2 together.

 

[Wildbill0088]

So still playing with the '83 DJ5 151 but it's going in a different project and I need to mount it to a sturdy 4 speed manual any ideas?

 

[Schurkey]

If you can find copies of Automotive Rebuilder magazine, November 1986, and September 1991 issues, you'll have eleven pages of detailed history and year-and-model differences among the 120+ versions of the Iron Duke that GM produced.

The magazine is no longer publishing, and I don't see any on-line presence. There's no-one to ask copyright permission from, so I can't post my scans here.

This is not "performance" or "Hot-Rod" information, it's a listing of heads, blocks, cranks, oil pumps, camshafts, and the like that can be used together, or lightly modified to be used in other Iron Duke applications.

There's no mention of the 181/3L marine/industrial version, and almost nothing on the Chevy II 153 four-popper that preceded the 151 "Pontiac" Iron Duke.

For the record, I found evidence on several web sites that it was General Motors do Brasil (GM of Brazil) that developed the 151 offshoot of the 153, as the four-cylinder used in the Brazilian Chevy Opala changed from a 153 to a 151 in either '73 or '74, depending on the source. Pontiac didn't offer a 151 until three or four model years later. Whether this means Pontiac is taking credit for Chevy do Brasil work, or the owner of the various web sites are all quoting incorrect info for the displacement of the engine, I don't know.

Example:
http://automobile.wikia.com/wiki/Chevrolet_Opala

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/chevrolet_brasil/opala/opala_series_1_coupe/1972.html

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/chevrolet_brasil/opala/opala_series_1_coupe/1973.html