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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After verifying I could turn over this 1985 S10 V6 safely with no mechanical problems, I decided to try it with gas. The last time I tried to start it, about 4 years ago, it would turn over with starting fluid, but wouldn't keep running.

I'm worried about contamination/sediment in the gas tank, so I decided to fuel it directly from a separate tank of fresh gas, coupling the external line to the large hose into the mechanical fuel pump. I cranked it a good bit, but still could not get it to start, so I splashed a little gas into the carb. The engine fired up instantly and ran smoothly for about 2 seconds before quitting. At least it runs.

I tried putting my finger to the end of the external hose to the fuel pump while cranking the starter and felt a weak suction. Of course, there was air in the hose. But when I disconnected the intercept to the hose to the fuel pump, I saw less gas in that line than I would have expected since it made a downwards U-curve.

Seems to me like I've either got a bad fuel pump or a clogged carb. I tried to replace the carb inlet fuel filter, but found you can't seem to do it without removing the carb or loosening the metal fuel line at the fuel pump.

Edit: Looking closely at the fuel pump, its housing is still bright yellow-plated metal, little sign of age. Carb looks dirtier.

History: 5 years ago, right after my brother passed away, the car would run. One year later, it would start with starting fluid, but wouldn't keep running. We're now back to that point of no fuel.

What should my next diagnostic step be?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
My conclusion is that the carburetor is completely clogged up and will need a rebuild. Any consensus on who sells the best 2SE rebuild kits?

I haven't rebuilt a carburetor since the early 1980s when I rebuilt the Carter AFB on my 1964 Pontiac Star Chief.
 

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My conclusion is that the carburetor is completely clogged up and will need a rebuild. Any consensus on who sells the best 2SE rebuild kits?

I haven't rebuilt a carburetor since the early 1980s when I rebuilt the Carter AFB on my 1964 Pontiac Star Chief.
Yep...Weber.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I guess the main reason I'd be cautious about dumping another $400 into this S10 is that I can't really remember the last time I drove it. I probably only rode in it once or twice over the last 20 years. I'm also not 100% sure whether or not it would have me run afoul of emissions equipment inspection. They don't do exhaust emissions checks on cars older than 1995 here, but they do check that the equipment is there.

Also, I looked up madmax. Site says last seen here in 2010.
 

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I guess the main reason I'd be cautious about dumping another $400 into this S10 is that I can't really remember the last time I drove it. I probably only rode in it once or twice over the last 20 years. I'm also not 100% sure whether or not it would have me run afoul of emissions equipment inspection. They don't do exhaust emissions checks on cars older than 1995 here, but they do check that the equipment is there.

Also, I looked up madmax. Site says last seen here in 2010.
Do a search at the top of the page..put a space between madmax... @Mad Max

It comes up now on the link I just posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I pulled the 2SE carb, and with it off, I can see down into the float chamber. It looks like it has a thick layer of clear amber-tinted paint or cured epoxy on the bottom of the float chamber, so it's effectively painted shut with dried out gasoline.
 

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try rebuilding it. if the rebuild doesn't work out, a 32/36 is a great carb for good gas mileage and power. I have used them on a number of vehicles. if you want to make it more power and less gas mileage, use a weber 38/38.

the 32/36 opens the 32mm side first and the 36mm if you want to accelerate faster. its built like a 4 barrel so you can good gas mileage if you don't floor it everywhere. the 38/38 opens both at one time so its like a factory two barrel that is not concerned so much in gas mileage.

your two barrel should be very easy to drop into a can of carb cleaner and then put it back together. just lay the exploded view diagram out and put everything in its spot or on a bench next to the drawing so you know where everything goes.

I love carbs. fuel injection is great but I love rebuilding carbs and tuning them.
 

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If you can ditch the factory carb, I highly recommend this as well. While personally I never had a weber on mine, I did have the Holley 4bbl conversion, and boy did that wake the truck up! The factory carb is absolutely choking that engine without a doubt. Fuel economy was about the same or better if I kept my foot out of the accelerator. Max said the weber will give similar results and that's a bolt on vs the 4bbl which ultimately took me about $700 to complete and several trips to the junkyard to find a proper cable.for the accelerator and other stuff. The Weber looks so dang factory it's hard to tell it isn't. You could probably modify the air cleaner and no one would be the wiser. Another thing to consider is your truck is 4wd with big tires. The conversion would be a real blessing on a truck like that.
 

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the new guy
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you can fur sure modify the factory air cleaner to fit the weber but it will take a little thought as the weber is a square top and the stock carb is a round top, if I remember right.

if you are able to, I always say go to the four barrel. people who don't know to much will say that a four barrel gets worse mileage but a vacuum secondary four barrel that is roughly the correct cfm and jetted properly will get you great gas mileage because the primaries are small since the carb has secondaries that open wen you need power. I went to a 500cfm holley 4 barrel on my wrangler when I took off the weber 34/34 (don't even look at a weber 34/34, its a piece of junk). what a difference in power and I gained 3 or 4 mile per gallon. my wrangler would smoke the tires through the intersection and it was an automatic, not a stick. if you can afford it, and are comfortable doing it, go to a four barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I asked the guy at the place where I get my annual car inspections done, and he said that they do check for the original air cleaner with the thermostatic valve. But as for swapping new carbs, he said, "Most of the guys doing inspections now weren't even born when that car was built, so they wouldn't know what they were looking at."
 

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The E2SE has rectangular body. I'd think it would just about be a bolt on to the factory cleaner.
 

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There she is in all her glory.... Yeah...right.


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