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Pretty new to this forum but felt like there was some people who might need a sort of guide route if they're going for an ls swap. When I got the truck my intention always was to swap the engine. It had the 2.2L and was manual so hey. I'm already pretty in to the swap sorry for not having shared since the beginning. But to start I started off with Trans Dapt's 42161 kit. Cost me around 650 shipped through summit. The kit was pretty good and included short headers (wish were painted a little better), motor mounts, and oil pan. If you ask me I dont think it's expensive so i stuck with it. After i got the kit i test fitted everything on and looked like this.
 

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Everything fit on nicely ( except motor mounts, pain to get them in ). But in the last picture I didn't have one of the headers installed. I really wanted to get the truck running asap but felt like I needed to take my time if i wanted it the way i did. So I pulled the engine out again and painted the block and the frame. Since the pan that came with the kit needed an oil filter relocation, I began to work underneath as well. Dont think anyone needs pics how the frame looked before paint with the new mounts but 🤷‍♂️
 

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I then got some hardware for myself on Christmas ( coil brackets, spark plugs and wires and a clutch kit ). I then stalled on the truck for a while after I was in a huge dilemma with the clutch and tranny I wanted to use, and I got a 99 Camaro that I'm also gonna do a swap on ( gonna need some help ). But after about two months of ordering and testing clutches back to back, I just settled to use the stock setup of the silverado ( nv3500 and clutch kit ). I then installed the driver side header and left it there.
 

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Ok now into more recent times. Lately I've been on the move to get this thing running. I got a guy who was telling me he could do all my electrical biss so I figured I should slap an ls6 intake I was planning on putting on later so I could have it already installed.
To install the low intake, I had to switch the water pump to allow space for the throttle body. I used an ls1 pump what had the bolt on pulley. My only problem is that it sticks out pretty far since I had to use ict billet spacers to accommodate my truck accessories.
So right now I'm working on the serpentine belt. I know some people on these swaps either notch their frame or buy an expensive high mount system for their AC. But as I read on this forum, I followed the steps on how to use a pre vortec 5.7/4.3 ac bracket on the s10. The results were perfect. It's a pretty easy job just need to fabricate your own small support. Picked the bracket off a 94 Silverado 4.3 and the Ac compressor off a later Silverado that used r134a. The ac lines sit right underneath the condenser so I'm gonna be fabricating a pretty small ac line. The ac looks like it lines up with all the other pulleys so that's a check off my list.
All I'm missing is the power steering and alternator. I tried looking around for any info if I could use a stock 5.3/4.8/6.0 bracket but from the looks of my bay and gearbox, i doubted it ( and I wasn't trying to head to the junkyard, pay a hundred bucks for the bracket, alternator, and compressor then come back and it not fit ). So I ordered an ict billet high mount bracket that used my truck alternator and a Corvette power steering pump. Spent about 200 for everything since I wanted to pick up a newer pulley that had holes ( 125 for bracket, 60 for pump and 20 for pulley ).
Aside from all the pulley jazz I've finished up the drivetrain underneath as well. The NV3500 used on the Silverados and s10s bolted on perfectly ( no notching or cutting was needed on the transmission housing ) . It actually came out a lot better than I expected since I was able to use the stock 2.2 t5 transmission crossmember and the shift stick came out right under the stock position. I wanted to get a stage 2 or at least performance clutch but I couldn't find any for the 6 spline. So I just got a brand new clutch kit for a 05 Silvi. I just needed to use the driveshaft found on the 4.3 s10s. So that's a budget transmission solution right there.
And that's about where I'm at. Just finished painting the alternator and crank pulley and waiting for the power to arrive so I could measure and finish the belt. Sorry I might be a little vague on details. Like i said I'm new here, but if you guys are wondering about some of the stuff I did, lmk. The next step is getting a fuel rail and gas lines then finding out what the **** im gonna do with the radiator and fans. THERE IS NO ROOM! But yeah if you guys can give me some recommendations that would be awesome. My future plans on this truck would be baggin it and painting so I'm on the lookout for anyone who does that sort of biss in Colorado. I will keep you guys updated just lmk your here👍
 

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Chevymec the oil pan was a Hamburger 1108. It just barely had enough clearance but looks well built. On the member it has like 1/2 clearance. The picture shows it keeps the engine from going back.It needs a relocation for the filter though.
 

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Wondering why the use of rubber hose instead of AN line for fuel and oil?
On barbed AN fittings with gear clamps... does the **** get any cheaper?

You're one stray piece of road debris away from having hot oil sprayed all over your exhaust/underside of your truck.

A piece of skid strapping, brick ties, hvac ductwork ****, w/e I can think of many things that I see on the road that will slice those lines like a hot knife through butter.
 

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Wondering why the use of rubber hose instead of AN line for fuel and oil?
On barbed AN fittings with gear clamps... does the **** get any cheaper?

You're one stray piece of road debris away from having hot oil sprayed all over your exhaust/underside of your truck.

A piece of skid strapping, brick ties, hvac ductwork ****, w/e I can think of many things that I see on the road that will slice those lines like a hot knife through butter.
well I did use some Russell AN to hose barb fittings and fit real tight. But yeah should replace em anyway. Maybe I'll get them with the gas lines I'll get. Any guess how much feet I'll need for gas?
 

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Keep in mind the only approved OEM, and suitable aftermarket line for fuel containing any amount of ethanol is PTFE. PTFE ends can only be terminated by compression or crimp fittings with appropriate PTFE style fittings.

Using stainless braided rubber hose is a great way to get that gas smell, and eventually gas pissing through the stainless braid. Its like one of the most common hot-rod building mistakes people make.

If you never use gas with ethanol, you can avoid doing that... I use 93 no ethanol, though still have PTFE end to end incase I want to run 91 with 10% ethanol. If you plan on running E85 or higher, make sure to use PTFE as rubber won't even last a month in that kind of use.
 

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More people are reading than you think. This isn't facebook or instagram, so there's not the hardcore urge to comment or like, but this site still gets tons of traffic from both members and guests.
 

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really interested, I'm doing something similar,

what year is your engine out of? and was your s10 a four wheel drive?

I'm having trouble getting the heater box to clear the engine, did you have any problems with that?

any problems with coil clearance to the brake booster on the drivers side? did you use different coils or coil brackets?

I cut the radiator core up on my stock s10, and used a 2012 Chrysler 200M electric fan setup, and the stock 4.3 radiator.

with that there was enough clearance between the radiator, fans, and engine pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
really interested, I'm doing something similar,

what year is your engine out of? and was your s10 a four wheel drive?

I'm having trouble getting the heater box to clear the engine, did you have any problems with that?

any problems with coil clearance to the brake booster on the drivers side? did you use different coils or coil brackets?

I cut the radiator core up on my stock s10, and used a 2012 Chrysler 200M electric fan setup, and the stock 4.3 radiator.

with that there was enough clearance between the radiator, fans, and engine pulleys.
Ok the 4.8 came out of a 2005 silvie. The s10 is a 2wd using the nv3500 from the 2000s s10s and silvs. As for heater box clearance, when i was putting in the engine, i did not realize i crashed the box. Dont know if you could see in the top left of the picture where it's broken. I believe Holley sells a box to solve this. As for coils, I used a square type coil bracket and barely liberated the coils. I recomend you install the coil bracket and coils before you put the engine in. I had to trim the booster a little on the bottom left to have space to tighten the coil. I used the REV ignition coils for the ls1 I believe. And I cant remember the name of the bracket, it's been over a year since I've bought it.
 

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But since the last post, I have gotten the power steering pump from the 97-03 Corvette and the ict high mount bracket. Painted my alternator and they are now installed. Yesterday I attempted to put the crank pulley on since I took it off to have space during the engine drop in, but now there is no space to be able to put it on. Might have to get a longer crank bolt that way I just have to tighten the sucker in instead of hitting the pulley in. Then I'll have the belt situated. I also got a billet fuel rail designed for the ls6. I was able to use my truck injectors by removing the plastic rings they have. As for the radiator and fans, i might try recessing the radiator in like 2000_S10 said.
 

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Couple things on the crank pulley:

Heat it up. Doesn't take much with a torch around the ID or toss it in the oven at 200° for a few (careful the cook in the house doesn't catch you...). With a good shove it will pop right on if it's hot enough.

You can also make your own pulley seating tool with some All Thread of the same thread pattern as the crank bolt and a nut/washer to press the pulley on. I made one of those and it works great.

Lastly the crank bolt is torque to yield. Some people have no problems reusing the original bolt. Others have not. I bought an LS6 that did have the problem and learned quite a bit about how those parts work together on the LS platform. My recommendation is a new Crank bolt and follow the factory procedure as close as possible. Other people on the internet have had good luck slamming the old one back in with an impact.
 

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Couple things on the crank pulley:

Heat it up. Doesn't take much with a torch around the ID or toss it in the oven at 200° for a few (careful the cook in the house doesn't catch you...). With a good shove it will pop right on if it's hot enough.

You can also make your own pulley seating tool with some All Thread of the same thread pattern as the crank bolt and a nut/washer to press the pulley on. I made one of those and it works great.

Lastly the crank bolt is torque to yield. Some people have no problems reusing the original bolt. Others have not. I bought an LS6 that did have the problem and learned quite a bit about how those parts work together on the LS platform. My recommendation is a new Crank bolt and follow the factory procedure as close as possible. Other people on the internet have had good luck slamming the old one back in with an impact.
Hmm... haven't thought of heating it up. Might give it a try. I'm sad I dont give much time to the truck. I'm always working on weekdays and only work on the truck on weekends. I'll see if i could give it some more time to advance faster. Thanks for the advice though.
 
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