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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1993 gmc Jimmy 4.3 cpi 4l60e.
No 1st or 4th gear. 1-2k on Rebuilt transmission. Old transmission was swapped for the same reason.
Getting codes 43 59 67 66 82
Im getting 12v at pink wire at transmission plug.

Is this a pressure manifold and solenoid issue?
 

· Randy
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Code 43 is not a transmission code. It is a knock sensor code.
Code 59 is a fluid temperature sensor circuit high, the sensor is part of the PSM or TFP switch.
Code 66 is a 3-2 solenoid circuit fault
Code 67 is a TCC solenoid circuit fault
Code 82 is a 1-2 shift solenoid circuit fault

the 93-94 units were very common to se a bad 3-2 or TCC solenoid fault. Based on the codes I might be changing the internal harness, PSM, 3-2 solenoid and both shift solenoids.
Here is a link to an Ebay seller I've had good luck with. I cannot vouch for the internal harness quality because I have never bought one from them. I usually buy shift kits from them or the actual ACDelco brand solenoids.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Code 43 is not a transmission code. It is a knock sensor code.
Code 59 is a fluid temperature sensor circuit high, the sensor is part of the PSM or TFP switch.
Code 66 is a 3-2 solenoid circuit fault
Code 67 is a TCC solenoid circuit fault
Code 82 is a 1-2 shift solenoid circuit fault

the 93-94 units were very common to se a bad 3-2 or TCC solenoid fault. Based on the codes I might be changing the internal harness, PSM, 3-2 solenoid and both shift solenoids.
Here is a link to an Ebay seller I've had good luck with. I cannot vouch for the internal harness quality because I have never bought one from them. I usually buy shift kits from them or the actual ACDelco brand solenoids.

Man i hope thats what it is. Im waiting on 2 acdelco 1-2 3-2 from summit. I pulled my old transmission apart and pulled the pressure manifold and harness and other solenoids out to swap in and try. These are all brand new with maybe 2k miles on them before i burned 2nd and 3rd up beating on it, pissed off... then bought this one. It had the same problem and i had it fixed and i dont know what they did. Now its come back. I tried fixing the old one this same way. Today i put damn near all new pins with like 5" of pigtail on the blue ecm
connector. I didn't check the codes after. Just test drove it and nothing changed. Right now i just have 43 and 66 after pulling the battery cables off. The other codes haven't come back yet.

The knock sensor plug on the back of the passenger side head is broken so it probably popped off again. Ill fix that after the engine cools off. I hope the solenoids just went out or the wiring took a ****. This transmission only has maybe 2k on it. Got it from Detroit axle and their transmission department is closed for revamping now.
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· Randy
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I hope you don't have a pinched wire causing the problem. I had a guy call about 6-months into his warranty that said everything quit. Turned out it was a pinched wire that shorted the trans fuse. His "everything quit" was limp mode. I drove 1.5 hrs(one way) to find a bad fuse, replace it and have it blow as soon as it got plugged in and the key turned. I found it pinched and show him with a flashlight where it was pinched in the bell-housing.
The servos wont have anything to do with the actual command of the shift. They are for more holding capacity on the 2-4 band in it's respective gear. They can cause harsh shifts if the orifice size is to large, because it was drilled for the larger ones in it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I hope you don't have a pinched wire causing the problem. I had a guy call about 6-months into his warranty that said everything quit. Turned out it was a pinched wire that shorted the trans fuse. His "everything quit" was limp mode. I drove 1.5 hrs(one way) to find a bad fuse, replace it and have it blow as soon as it got plugged in and the key turned. I found it pinched and show him with a flashlight where it was pinched in the bell-housing.
The servos wont have anything to do with the actual command of the shift. They are for more holding capacity on the 2-4 band in it's respective gear. They can cause harsh shifts if the orifice size is to large, because it was drilled for the larger ones in it now.

Ive already been on the phone with howell today for a new harness and programmed eprom... hope i dont have to drop $900 on that. Ive only dropped the pan once on it to do filter and fluid after break-in. I dont think i crimped a wire but i guess ill see in the next few days. I have the 2 solenoids and a pan with a drain plug coming the 15th. I am also adding a exhaust flange right after the transfer case so i can pull the y pipe and drop it out of the way of getting the pan down. The exhaust is one whole piece and drives me nuts. Whoever welded it like that is a bonghole. I figured the servos would be a nice touch for offroad and pulling the jetski or 4wheeler. If they hit to hard ill just swap the stock stuff back in. I know it comes with a longer pen and idk if i leave it longer or shorter within sonnax specs would it help with it kicking so hard.

Would the knock sensor code throw it in limp Mode? I would think it would. Ill try and fix that tomorrow. Maybe one of the autoparts stores will have the plug. Its just such a pain to get down there and solder it behind the engine. Half of the plastic is missing on the plug so i just set it in the knock sensor and let it ride. Maybe ill just do some rtv on the inside (not on the terminal) and let it set up.
 

· Randy
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Knock sensor should not have anything to do with limp mode.
The ignition switch supplies the power & the PCM supplies the ground for the solenoids in question...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Knock sensor should not have anything to do with limp mode.
The ignition switch supplies the power & the PCM supplies the ground for the solenoids in question...
I do have the ignition switch on the way from summit too it should be here the 15th as well. One thing i haven't mentioned is when i go from drive to park. 3 times since this all started happening again the truck loses all power and shuts off. And its a rebuilt column i spent alot of money on. It starts right back up. Just really weird.

I definitely have 12v at the round plug on the transmission. Where does the ecm get ground contact at on the body or engine? All them grounds on the back of the heads?. I know the pinout at the ecm connector...but where does it come from...
 

· Randy
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Changed both A B solenoids, and pressure manifold. Have codes 66 and 35. Im guessing its something i cant figure out and will have to goto a shop... ugh
The code 35 is a IAC code, It was usually a broken connector. Looks as if you made headway!!! Please see the attached PDF for your code 66. If the wrong OHM solenoid is put in, it will see it as a bad part. These are common solenoids to be boxed wrong and will fit either location.
In my LS swap I put in 2004 trailblazer O2's and the Tune file is an 05 Silverado. It spit 4 codes for O2 sensors because the TB sensors have a different resistance than the Silverado tune spec's out for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The code 35 is a IAC code, It was usually a broken connector. Looks as if you made headway!!! Please see the attached PDF for your code 66. If the wrong OHM solenoid is put in, it will see it as a bad part. These are common solenoids to be boxed wrong and will fit either location.
In my LS swap I put in 2004 trailblazer O2's and the Tune file is an 05 Silverado. It spit 4 codes for O2 sensors because the TB sensors have a different resistance than the Silverado tune spec's out for.

I think they were the same solenoids i put in. So i might have shot myself in the foot there.
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Any chance you have the procedure to test the wiring at the IAC and the IAC itself.

I didn't see on rockauto an actual A or B solenoids. Just they were the same part from GM. I will check it out. I want to fix it myself but its near above my capabilities at this point. I need to learn how to test the wiring on that B solenoid circuit. Power/signal/ground. I honestly feel thats the problem. I tested the harness in the transmission for continuity and it checked out on all wires from inside the main plug to the actual solenoid plugs so its good from there. And i do have 12v at the truck side of the transmission connector. Will i have ground at the main plug to the frame? Like continuity. And how would i test the signal at the main transmission plug from the ecm for the B solenoid...
 

· Randy
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The 24230298 Solenoids are the A & B shift solenoids. They are Identical and go in different locations. These have nothing to do with the 3-2 downshift solenoid. Please see the aforementioned attachment. It shows what the 3-2 solenoid looks like and it's OHM rating for your vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The 24230298 Solenoids are the A & B shift solenoids. They are Identical and go in different locations. These have nothing to do with the 3-2 downshift solenoid. Please see the aforementioned attachment. It shows what the 3-2 solenoid looks like and it's OHM rating for your vehicle.

Oohhh dang then yeah i didn't swap that one... so ill test the extra one i have from the old transmission and report the readings. Thank god for the transmission pan with a drain lol. Im gonna look at that link you shared right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I dont know what im doing or much about transmissions but i do understand parts and can follow instructions. I don't know what’s going on with my transmission now. Im going to swap that solenoid tomorrow for the 3-2 downshift solenoid since i didn't know the difference from the A and B solenoid but if that doesn't fix it im buying that transgo 4l60e-3 kit. I didn't know they existed but i guess it makes your transmission fully manual shift on the column. You can do it with the transmission in the vehicle with my year. And i have that spare transmission in the shop so ill just pull the valve body off that one and do the work to it and then drop my pan and valve body and i can access that pump boost valve from the bottom. The kits 300 and ive spent double that multiple times on diagnostic and repairs on the transmission and the problem keeps coming back. So tomorrow if the ignition position switch and 3-2 downshift solenoid doesn't fix it. She's going to manual shift on the column. I forgot to mention i did get the servos and pen setup and installed today too while i was down there.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The extra solenoid i have for the 3-2 downshift is reading 22ohm so i placed an order for the 10 to 15 ohm solenoid. So the transmission is on standby again. Going to try and figure out this IAC valve issue and then when the solenoid gets here hope that was the issue. Thank you for all the information tranzman
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Im about to go put the 3-2 downshift solenoid in and hope the the transmission shifts. Im in the middle of a SAS so i cant really drive it yet.

I have a backup plan and looking for some insight. I found a 5speed 4x4 transmission for a decent price. Can i swap out the 4l60e for the nv3500 and keep the np233c electric shift transfer case? Or do i have to get a floor shift transfer case.
 

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1993 gmc Jimmy 4.3 cpi 4l60e.
No 1st or 4th gear. 1-2k on Rebuilt transmission. Old transmission was swapped for the same reason.
Getting codes 43 59 67 66 82
Im getting 12v at pink wire at transmission plug.

Is this a pressure manifold and solenoid issue?
Trans Builder cohort always replaces all electronic stuff with new. Or you go elsewhere. Eliminating Unknowns.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So i changed the 3-2 downshift solenoid with the correct OHM solenoid for my year truck. Drained the pan and pulled it off. Located the solenoid via the picture below. Pulled the wire harness retaining clip up to disconnect it and the whole plug connector pulled off with the wire harness side. I dont know if the prongs are an interference fit or soldered to the solenoid but it popped off with little effort. I wasn't yanking on it. So this could definitely be why i was getting a code and sometimes the transmission would work and sometimes it wouldn't. New ones installed and ill check back here once my SAS is finished and let yall know if its fixed or if ill be swapping to a manual transmission.

One other thing is why is that solenoid that color? I thought it was supposed to be grey. I obviously bought a half **** rebuilt transmission. SMH

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· Randy
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The dye in the transmission fluid dyes the plastic connector. Those old solenoids can get very brittle from age & heat generated from the voltage/amperage passing through. You can actually see the dark brown around one post of the broken connector. I see that a lot in my rebuilds.
 
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