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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1992 s10 blazer 4 door 4.3L with the vin W cpi injection. i recently replaced the fuel injector unit be cause the old one blew a seal in the regulator pouring gas inside the manifold. so i replaced that and the gaskets. and now it is not starting. i went through three sets of plugs trying to get it to start. and killed a battery. prior to replacing injector it sat for like 5 months. within the last year i have replaced every single sensor the distributor the coil plug wires radiator exhaust ignition key lock battery and other things that wouldnt effect the no start. oh i guess timing chain and gears. when it was doing its not starting it would crank like normal and now it just makes a loud ass spinning noise but would pop out and engage ive taken the starter out twice and cleaned it greased it with silicon lube and it still is doing this. every like 25 key turns it will actually crank then get like jammed or something. im thinking its the ecu maybe or neutral switch. i replaced the ecu two years ago. i tried to check the stored codes yesterday and when you jump the pins on the plug under steering wheel nothing happens so when i check the abs it flashes like normal try ecu again nothing. which is making me think the ecu is not getting signals out or receiving signals or just not getting power. the battery terminals are all new. all the ecu plugs are tight. the starter works fine when you bench test it just not in the motor and the flywheel teeth are fine. really dont want to bring it in and cant afford it but i dont have diagnostic tools just my tool set i got for technician school. someone please give me any help you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
well yesterday after i posted i tried to find a ecu harness pinout but couldnt find one and i dont have alldata pro anymore so i just unplugged the computer and pulled out the rom chip to reset it and i put it back in and it cranked the first key turn but only cranked slower like as iff the battery was low but it was fully charged then a few more turns and nothing after about 5 key turns more it cranked and it almost started but as soon as it sputtered the starter disengaged and just made that spinning noise it did that a few more times and the starter wouldnt engage at all so im thinking that maybe its just the starter then but theres still that mystery of why i cant get the service engine soon light to flash. i guess i forgot to mention that for the last almost two weeks its been up to -35 but ive been keeping the battery in the house so it doesnt freeze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
since i guess no one has been able to give insight so far does anyone know of other blazer or s10 sites/forums i could join just to get more information or better chance of getting this thread out to more people. on google it said this was the largest or best s10 forum on the web so i thought people would be posting like nuts. im a member of hondatech and a few forums for acura integras, my other cars, and people post like every 5 minutes on there. by now this thread would have had like a 100 posts but i guess maybe there arent any blazer geeks.
 

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starter solenoid, low battery, bad connection, any or all,

ecm don't control the starter but it does effect fuel and spark, could be simply a bad connection (fuse, supply, sensor, ground, etc), or more
 

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Dude, give people more than a day to answer your question. Some people work a lot and ate not able to get on here everyday. Just be a little patient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
sorry people, i understand. i just get frustrated when i go on google or somehwere and try to look stuff up and all the link seem like its my problem but then its totally not and i get frustrated cause it seems like im theonly one with this vehicle that has a starter that spins but wont engage on a motor with everything else replaced, or they pulled a fuse box and tore wires out or blah blah blah. but i finally just called a junkyard about a new starter and he said it sounds like what my problem is the solenoid. everything ive seen online that i guess dumb people have said is that if the starter drive spins the solenoid is good but he said theres two cycles to it first is to pop out then to spin so basically the first half of my solenoid is burnt out. he told me that in 5 minutes rather than me trying to figure this out for like 3 weeks on the internet. but ill continue to help out other people on here i just hope if i need help ill be able to get some too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im kinda not sure what to do here. maybe you guys could help me out. i could go with a new starter for about 100 which i would rather not do. or i could get a starter from the junkyard for 40, or i could get just a new solenoid online for like 30. i dont know which of the second two would be better. i would start out getting just the solenoid, but i dont know the quality of it or the major thing, how to take the old one out or put the new one in. i already tried taking the old one out a while ago and it seemed like it was never meant to come out it had been in there so long. and i also dont know if i buy the new solenoid and put it in if the contacts/brushes are good enough to last with the new solenoid, im not really sure what normal wear looks like on these starters. all the starters ive done in the past were all off imports so they are made with different style components that are easier to come by new and alot cheaper. i rebuilt my acura starter for 18 dollars and thats using parts from the dealer.
 

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This might sound stupid but try hitting the starter with a hammer. I've heard of many people getting it to work like that. At least if it doesn't work it won't be that expensive to replace if you're doing it yourself. I had a problem where it sounded like it wanted to start but it wouldn't after i tried to do my valve seals and messed with my springs. Try checking your timing as well as it might be either retarded or advanced slightly. Mine sounded like it wanted to kick over when it did that but it just wouldn't and it ended up being that i messed up my timing.
 

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The relay is not staged. It simply applies voltage to the starter from the ignition.
The pinion on the starter both pushes out and spins. this is correct. Take your starter out and go to Advance Auto. They can test test the starter for you. I would bet it is the starter, not the relay.

The hammer trick works, but you have to have someone turn the key to "start" while you smack it
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
since the starter spins when you turn the key and it just doesnt pop out to engage, wouldnt hitting it with a hammer and it did pop out cause it to violently smash into the flywheel teeth maybe doing damage? i tried hitting it with a hammer before when it was just sticking and not even making a noise and that got me to this point basically. what part do you even hit? i was hitting the part with the starter drive inside (the cylinder not the solenoid) "The relay is not staged. It simply applies voltage to the starter from the ignition." i didnt say that about the relay i said he told me that about the solenoid
 

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Starter solenoid... My mistake on wording. Still it is not staged. Simply applies voltage.

There is a small spring behind pinion. If spring broke pinion will not pop.

And no... You will do no flywheel damage. If pinion was stuck and you smacked the starter case with a hammer and freed the pinion- it would just be doing what it was supposed to.

I would suspect your starter is bad. Don't waste time on used one. Buy new
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
amazing how i couldnt find that online when i was searching for info on how to rebuild starters and all that. i didnt notice when i had my starter out and taken apart those two bolts that are supposed to hold the solenoid in when i had them out it wouldnt even budge but i thought that the solenoid was like slid in the casing, like a beer can in one of the holder things. maybe cause like that guy said his solenoid was new so it was able to turn and come out, mine is like god knows how old and didnt want to budge. what can i do to get it loose without hurting something? also i cant remember but i dont think mine has all those screws on the top that hold the end cap on. maybe mine is just a cheap one or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well i guess im gonna go out there and pull this starter as quick as i can to do this. its -7 out right now and with the wind chill -32. it shouldnt take me long though ive done it enough time times that im pretty quick. longest part is jacking the car and taking the wheel off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so i was right. i pulled the starter and it is much much smaller then the one in that link the solenoid especially and mine just has the 3 terminals the two big ones and the one little one. and no screws or anything to take the cap off, and it also looks like the was the solenoid is held in place is a little different too. does this mean i cant fix it the way is shown in the guide?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i got the solenoid apart from the starter the cap is pressed onto the body. i tried prying around the edges and i got the cap mostly all the way off before i gave up since i would never be able to put it back together. so it looks like im buying a new one.
 

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basic idea is there, make sure the plunger move the gear fairly smoothly, might clean/lube the gear/shaft
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
the basic idea is there except only the v8 solenoid is repairable like for the k-5 blazer not the s10. for the s10 you just have to replace the whole thing i guess. the part number is ac delco ss 328 and its super hard to find for less then the price of a reman starter. the k5 solenoid is like 15, so i think im gonna just buy a starter from the junkyard for 40 since the solenoids ive found are like 70 and the whole starters are around 100. once it fires up and runs i might get one of those summit high torque starters or somthing similar.
 

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If it's below o all this grease you are putting on the starter is probably thick as can be and actually keeping the starter from engaging. Clean the grease off with some wd-40 or some kind of penetrating oil. Then just lube the shaft the gear slides on with ATF. Hitting the starter with a hammer only works if the started isn't spinning at all.
 
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