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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, I own a Mustang Cobra, I hope you won't hold it against me?


My father in law passed away in Feb and my mother in law has his truck that has only been driven 2000 miles a year for the past 20 years. the truck has 43,000 miles on it and they were very anal about getting it serviced when it was due. Basically, the truck was driven by a 63 year old man for 20 years and he never blew the carbon out of it when he did drive it.

On to the problem since my search didn't do me much good. I did look on another forum before (or it could have been this one, I don't remember, for an answer.) and took a few notes. All the truck will do is turn over but not start.

History of the problem started with a bus mechanic who owned an s-10 and replaced the fuel pump on it. the truck idled but you had to "pat" the gas to keep it running and that is once you got it to turn over. Six months later, the same mechanic replaced the fuel pump again for the same problem and it did the same thing, sporadic idle and patting the gas to get it to run. He also replaced the fuel filter and the truck would sputter around and when you gave it full throttle, it would die and you had to let off to keep it running while "patting" the gas.

Since his trials and tribulations on getting this truck to run, I went in and did the basics like a tune up. Here is everything that has been done to the truck:

1. Replaced two fuel pumps and fuel filter - bus mechanic
2. Replaced all wires, rotor cap and button, rebuilt carb with two new TBI injectors, and ignition control module (today) - me

The same problem persists with the truck turning over but not starting.

here is what I learned from reading the forums, the ICM is not behind the glove box but rather inside the distributor. The module has tabs on them so you have to get them in the right place. I did put the supplied grease on the bottom of the module but what would happen if you put too much? Do you have to have the metal on the bottom "ground" with the distributor?

I also took the liberty of doing two things...

1. I pulled the coil wire off and sparks were hot and heavy but when
2. I pulled the spark wire off, you could barely get a spark. Now this could have been due to the fact that the contact was at the top of the wire and not right down on the plug but I thought if the coil fired like a bandit, the spark plug wire would do the same thing, is that not right?


I do hear the fuel pump prime so I have just about eliminated that since you can smell gas and the old plugs were fouled out with black, meaning raw gas on them. If you think you know what this problem is, please post and if there are certain tools or other sites or threads that discuss this, please post them here and I will gladly go and read the possible solutions.

Thanks,

Tony
 

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Air, fuel and spark are the things to check. Just because you have spark doesn't mean the firing order is correct. Was the dizzy cap or rotor button put on backwards? Was the dizzy out ~ maybe 180 off? Are the plug wires in the correct firing order? Is the ICM in correctly? I think you'll find your problem in the dizzy area.
 

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Do a search on seafoam. I think the 264 forum has some good ones.
*Note you cann't do seafoam until the engine is running.

If you have good spark at the coil wire, then if the cap and rotor are good you would have good spark at the plug wires.
Use a cleanned up old plug to check for spark at the plug wire.
If you have the old cap and rotor put it back on and test.

Did you pull the dizzy to install the ign mod?
If you did, did you mark the rotor first?
And did you get it back in the same direction?
 

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Dont forget the ESC,its on the firewall right next to the distribution block.
Just throwing that out there cus it may or may not be the issuie.
Check the above mentioned first.
May also be a bad IAC,but again may not be,sad thing is checking these things require know how and proper tools.
Also,unplug the timing wire under the dash,should be tan and by its self,it has a quick connector,unplugging this will disconnect the computer from the timing,then check the basline timing,should be I think 10* btdc at baseline.
 

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Air, fuel and spark are the things to check. Just because you have spark doesn't mean the firing order is correct. Was the dizzy cap or rotor button put on backwards? Was the dizzy out ~ maybe 180 off? Are the plug wires in the correct firing order? Is the ICM in correctly? I think you'll find your problem in the dizzy area.
X2, you should check to make sure the previous owner didn't mess around with plug wires for the firing order. Get a book and recheck it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies all and I will print out this page and take it with me the next time I go to my mother in laws. (I go every two weeks because she lives 100 miles away.) Unfortunately, I had to rush last Saturday and didn't double check everything but I can say this, I did not pullout the distributor in order to put the ICM in, is there supposed to be an "air gap" in there somewhere, sort of like a "pertronix" ignition? There is something in the center of the distributor that connects to the ICM, could that be bad??

I do not know what an "ESC" stands for so I cannot answer that??

Bill, are you saying to take an old plug and put it in the wire and "hold it" to see if it sparks? I'm guessing that's what you are suggesting, right?

I do think it is in the distributor and I will double check the connections inside the distributor and the firing order. If the distributor is off by one spot, would this cause it to do this? I know on a Ford V8 you can turn the distributor to compensate for this. This truck is all original and we want to get it running so she can sell it since she wants the $$.

I have tons of tools but none to check this stuff since all my vehicles are Mustang Cobras (3) and all of my tools are for that type of vehicle.

Again, thanks for the help and I'll post back when I get a chance to work on it again next Saturday.
 

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ESC=Electronic Spark Control module.
 

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I use a spark plug and jumper wire because it is easier. Specially if you are alone. You need to make sure the outer theads are grounded. I didn't include that.
The ESC is on the firewall above the distributer on the 4.3 but I'm not sure about the 2.8.
A good place to get info is at http://www.autozone.com
Register your car and then go to repair info and they usually post all kinds of troubleshooting techniques. Hope you have internet there.

I real do not know the 2.8, but a volt/ohm meter is a must. I highly recommend also having a (~$15) vacuum gauge to test with once you get it started.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

There are some good seafoam threads on the 262ci forum. That will help you blow out the carbon. I've never looked in the 2.8 section. Once you get it running right, run some seafoam through a tank of gas and it will run and sell a hell of a lot better. I usually use 1/3 to clean the engine, and a 1/3 in the first tank. DO NOT PUT IT IN YOUR OIL!
Since you are selling the truck, check the oil for signs of milky sludge, coolant contamination, gas in the oil. If the oil doesn't look that bad, then don't change it. When buying a car, my rip off alert goes off when the oil has just been change and the tires are bran new.

You also might get better NO-START help by posting your situation in the 2.8 forum, from members that have that engine. Hint Hint...

I just happened along your thead and knew the electic diagram is about the same for the 4.3 (262 ci).

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
An update on the truck that is still not running. I only get to check the truck about every two weeks so no need to post any sooner.

I checked and corrected the firing order on the distributor cap. No start!

I then poured a small amount of gas down the throttle body and whamoo, it started till the gas ran out. I then waited and it used up the last little bit of fumes and ran for about 5 seconds, smoothly I must add. I think the ICM helped out in that respect but now it is obvious that the fuel is the problem.

I remembered when I pulled the carb off that there wasn't even fuel spewing out of the line. I did find that unusual but again, the pump had been replaced twice in 12 months. The guy who originally worked on it said it is the fuel pump again. Is that common for these vehicles, 1 pump every six months? I would guess not since my pony car has gone over 150K and never had a pump replaced.

Question?

Is there a relay switch that is causing the fuel not to get to the throttle body injection?

Do you really think it is the fuel pump again and if so, the best way to check it is actually the pump?

Someone said that the pump could be wired backwards, is that feasible?

The best way to get to the pump or to test it would be helpful?

I do hear the pump "prime" when I turn the key in the "on" position.

Thanks for your advice!! :)
 
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