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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

1) Exactly how do I get at my 1988 S10 PU 4.3L computer? Steps please. I can't find it.
2) If I cannot repair it, where can I get a replacement cheap? Not a junker.
3) can I just stick the replacement in or does it need some kind of tweaking?

I've been told it is intermittent. Think we have eliminated all else (see below).
I am fully capable of cleaning it up and resoldering all joints etc. so i want to give it a try first.

The garage put a computer on it and said the computer was not responding properly. They told me they could not find a computer so they gave up. They do not get junkers. Nice to not charge me anything for the diagnostics.

I had a big leak in the windshield and everything inside the cab was soaked.
Most has dried out but the engine sputters under slight/medium load.
Takes off good under full throttle. Idles good once warmed up but it takes 5+ minutes to warm up.
Sometimes it runs perfectly for a long run. Stop, shut it off. Wait a few minutes then it falls back into this sputter mode.

Ran perfectly before this and passed CA smog with very low emissions the past two times.
All of the following done by my mechanics:
Had cat checked - like new.
Had new O2 sensor.
New Plugs.
Fuel pressure good.
Spark good.
Timing steady on the mark.
EGR functional.
All vacuum leaks corrected.

What ya say?

Love my S10 and want it working!
 

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It's not rocket science!
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143 Posts
Behind the glove box, under the dash.

You can get a reman unit from pretty much any autoparts store, you just need to swap your prom chip over to the new one.
 

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Then you need a new prom also...... I bet it is just the ECM. Might try to reseat the PROM as they can come loose.....
 

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goin broke but n style
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acces teh computer. When the truck is running, tap on the ECU. if the truck stumbles or changes tone than you have a bad ecu or a bad connection at the ecu.

your computer should be in the $100 range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
For those who have to discover the location like I did.

Look under the dash on the passenger side on the far right.
You will see two connectors with lots of wires in them.
Find the little plastic lever on the connector and squeeze it while pulling down on the connector. Do this for both.
Then there is only one screw to remove the ECU.
It is right there next to the connectors and is screwed into the bottom of the dash.
Take that screw out and then the ECU will be free to wiggle out.
Taking the EC apart to survey it is fairly easy.
I marked everything to make sure I got it all back together.
You do not have to remove the scfrews on the little cover plate that covers the chips unless all you want to do is pull chips. There are two chips. THey pull straight out but they are in really tight. Carefully pull straight up so as not to break the chip holder or bend the pins.


Remove the screws on the corners to get into the PWB area.
You do not have to remove any screws that hold the PWB to the internal frame.
Just remove the two screw on the cover. Those are the ones off centr and in a line. This releases the PWB.

Mine looked clean and well built.
I am going to clean the connectors carfully.
I also wiggled the chips to clean of any corrosion.
We'll see.

 

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Man I am at wits end, Ready for gas and a match... I have a junkyard built 89s10 2.8 5 spd standard. The truck was doing great and all of sudden has a mind of it's own. Wants to buck like a bull. @times and run great at other times. Have changed the distributor,ignition igniter and the spark control module. I am going after the ecm now, but this one is on the brake booster and I cannot find any info on this. Everyone I talk to says they are on the passenger side kick panel under the dash. I salvaged this truck 4 years ago. Have I got myself into something non repairable. I am very mechanically enclined. I am just not a true chevy man and need some help... Rescue before I go down with the ship...
 

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very possible your problem is in the prom or calpak, you can get proms thru RockAuto.com I just received mine in three days truck runs fine now. mine idled 1500 cold for 5 min. then came down to 500. now cold it idles at 1000 for 5-7 sec. then drops to 500. cost for the prom was $58.00, $64 w/shipping good luck.
 
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