S-10 Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I though I was being smart and ordered the WBRP5705 bearing/seal combo. Says it'll fit my truck.
But appears they will not fit.
Oversize compared to old bearing and seal I pulled out.
Old bearing OD: 57.2mm. New bearing: 57.45mm. That's 0.25mm or 10/1000 inch oversize.
Old seal OD: 58.2mm. New bearing-seal area: 58.4mm. That's 0.2mm or 8/1000 inch oversize.

Am I supposed to somehow bore out the bores on the truck?

Isn't 10/1000 inch too much even if I freeze the bearing/seal and heat the bearing bore?

Am I supposed to increase the bores, maybe with a sanding drum? Just doesn't seem right.

I damaged the seal and bearing roller cage when I pulled them out and now the truck is up on jacks blocking driveway :(

Finn
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,161 Posts
So I though I was being smart and ordered the WBRP5705 bearing/seal combo. Says it'll fit my truck.
But appears they will not fit.
Oversize compared to old bearing and seal I pulled out.
Old bearing OD: 57.2mm. New bearing: 57.45mm. That's 0.25mm or 10/1000 inch oversize.
Old seal OD: 58.2mm. New bearing-seal area: 58.4mm. That's 0.2mm or 8/1000 inch oversize.

Am I supposed to somehow bore out the bores on the truck?

Isn't 10/1000 inch too much even if I freeze the bearing/seal and heat the bearing bore?

Am I supposed to increase the bores, maybe with a sanding drum? Just doesn't seem right.

I damaged the seal and bearing roller cage when I pulled them out and now the truck is up on jacks blocking driveway :(

Finn
If new stuff won't begin to fit in housing, it's either damaged or parts incorrect. There's numbers on the old parts that typically should match correct replacements.
 

· Premium Member
2003 Sonoma SLS ext. cab 4.3L / 4x4
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
According to the link to the eBay posting, the Seller offers free returns. I'd definitely take advantage of that. Is the rear axle on the S10 the original OEM one? If it is, then why did you order this part - the listing shows a lot of applications.........for FORD products. That likely explains the no fit situation. And no, the correct bearings should not require any boring to install. You might want to try RockAuto or Genuine OEM GM Parts and Accessories Online - GM Parts Giant to get the parts you need. And make sure you know which rear axle is in the truck before ordering any more paarts.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you all. Of course now I've read all the (negative) reviews and understand more about this bearing/seal. It is actually an axle repair bearing. That means that the included seal(s) and bearing rollers will ride on a different location on the axle -- a good thing if a groove has been worn into the axle by the old seal. Therefore these bearing/seals are 7 mm wider than the 30 mm old bearing+seal width which means it will stick out 7 mm from the hub. That's OK if there still is enough space to push the axle in enough to remove/install the C-clip. Also it has two seals -- the inner will prevent differential gear oil from lubricating the bearing so will rely on whatever grease is included when installed, and axle will probably have to be removed at regular intervals to re-lubricate the bearing. I guess one could puncture or remove the inner seal so differential gear oil can still reach the bearing. So the idea of these axle repair bearings is sound. However they are difficult to install and near impossible to remove (without cutting with dremel tool) according to reviews. I have no idea why they are made to such poor tolerances. Perhaps the SNK, Timken and National versions are made to better tolerances? Even though my axle does have a groove worn in it and would benefit from this bearing/seal, I think I'll just go to the local NAPA store Monday and get separate bearing and seal, as originally installed and just do the one axle that's leaking. I really don't want to freeze it overnight and then having it stick halfway in when trying to install it and be next to impossible to remove. I had a heck of a time removing the old bearing. A 2 pound sliding hammer did not do it. Finally got it out with a old puller and 1/2" steel bar across the hub. Finn
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was able to install those repair bearings after all.
Polished bores in the hub.
Left the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours.
Heated the bore with the flapwheel I used to polish the hub bores.
Using a mallet and a big block of steel I was able to pound in the bearings.
Obviously I had to work fast before temperature of bearing and hub equalized.
Only stuck out 4.5mm when fully inserted. No problem pushing the axles in to insert the C-clips.
I added grease to the bearing and left the inner seal in place. Hopefully the grease won't push out thru the outer seal.
Will be interesting to see how long they last.

Inspecting the gears in the differential I noticed some play in the bearings there. I guess they also need replacing :( Maybe next time ...

Finn
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,161 Posts
I was able to install those repair bearings after all.
Polished bores in the hub.
Left the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours.
Heated the bore with the flapwheel I used to polish the hub bores.
Using a mallet and a big block of steel I was able to pound in the bearings.
Obviously I had to work fast before temperature of bearing and hub equalized.
Only stuck out 4.5mm when fully inserted. No problem pushing the axles in to insert the C-clips.
I added grease to the bearing and left the inner seal in place. Hopefully the grease won't push out thru the outer seal.
Will be interesting to see how long they last.

Inspecting the gears in the differential I noticed some play in the bearings there. I guess they also need replacing :( Maybe next time ...

Finn
If any diff brngs are loose ,you should hear Howling going down the road. If not , they mite still be ok.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top