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1985 S10 on 1985 full size Blazer frame

2534 Views 30 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  senecagreen
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I used the full size Blazer frame because it was already a V8 and most all the parts Chevy pickups 1973-1987 will interchange. I had the steering gearbox reinforcement plste welded to the Blazer frame as this is a known weak spot. I took pics throughout the build if anyone would like to see them.

I already had a 1985 full size Blazer and bought a 1985 ext cab 2wd long bed 5 speed stick S10 for $600 to get the body plus it was already a manual S10 which is how I wanted to build my mini monster truck project.

The driveline is out of a 1976 K10 pickup. 350 4 bolt main, sm465 3 speed with granny gear, np205 transfer, hd dana 44 front with the 3/8" thick axle tubes w/big lockouts, 14 bolt full floater rear. All this bolted right onto the Blazer frame.

I had to shorten the S10 longbed to match the 108" wheelbase of the Blazer frame. 42" IROK's finished it off. I wanted to build a stick shift so it could go thru deep water without ruining the trans.

The 350 has the basic stuff, cam, intake and the headers are for a 1985 full size Blazer.
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Thanks, I will find them and post some
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Here in Oklahoma they stopped doing state inspections years ago. The main requirements were the headlights could not be more than 55" from the ground and I had to have bumpers 22" from the ground. It is 55" to the center of the headlights. I added driving lights mounted lower so I could see at night and I made slide in bumpers for the receiver hitches front and rear so I could pull the pins and remove them for serious off roading to have a better approach angle.

This was my 85 blazer and the 85 2wd S10 I bought

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First thing was to remove the body from the Blazer. A buddy of
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mine had a overhead hoist in his building so I got it down to the last few bolts. Trailered it over there and lifted the body off and brought the chassis back home.
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I took the body off the S10 in my driveway using my engine hoist and a piece of 3/4" plywood in the cab so I didn't dent the roof
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I set the S10 cab on the Blazer frame on wood blocks just so I could push it back in the garage. I donated the S10 chassis to another friend that did all the welding on this project for me.

I did all this in one day. I started when my neighbors went to work and by the time they got home my driveway was empty again. lol

My wife never questioned whether I was going to be able to build my project. My mom who had used the little S10 out at the farm all summer to haul brush couldn't understand why I wanted to take apart a perfectly good little truck.

My sons were into monster trucks and we had been getting the blazer dented up following jeeps around tight trails and I told them we should just put a smaller body on this truck.
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I didn't have anyone to tell me how to do this. I decided from my experiences off road to do a platform welded to the Blazer chassis to set the S10 body on. The goal was to keep the driveline angles stock for strength and a Blazer stock suspension has more droop in the front. I had seen people try to stick hd full size axles under a 4wd S10 with big tires but that required a big lift and weak driveshaft angles. I had already converted the blazer to stick shift with manual clutch linkage but the 85 S10 uses a hydraulic clutch.

So I had a platform fabricated I could set the cab on so I could attach a fender to it and slide it forward to center the wheelwell so I would know how much I was going to have to shorten the S10 longbed.

You can see that since the S10 cab and front end is shorter than a full size blazer I knew the distributor was going to wind up just behind the firewall inside the beginning of the transmission tunnel. I measured and made the platform tall enough that if I ever had to I could get the distributor out without removing the cab.
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If I had to do it over again I think I could have built a lower platform and made a dog house in the cab to access the distributor. Not sure if the distributor is actually that far back though. I built this truck 20 years ago and it's still going strong. I have a 99 reg cab short bed complete truck and we have talked about putting a newer body on there and I could lower it then.
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While I had the body off I put in a new clutch, resealed the trans and transfer case. I used a bell housing from a 1986 1 ton chevy truck which that year had the hydraulic clutch. All i had to do was have a new longer braided line made from the S10 hydraulic master cylinder down to the 1 ton slave cylinder.

I used a 1 ton brake master cylinder which bolted right onto the S10 vacuum brake booster and ran longer lines. I used a new brush hog pto driveshaft cut to length with a slip yoke and u joints to connect the steering wheel to the steering gearbox. I lengthened the trans and transfer case shift levers to reach.
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Next the bed had to be shortened to match the blazer 108" wheelbase and a platform built to mount it on. I relocated the fuel filler to the back of the bed floor and a new hose to connect it to the blazer gas tank.

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of course we built something to bolt the front clip and core support to
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The complete body finally mounted. I used 1/8" thick black plastic to fill the gap between the body and the frame.
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I used rubber sheet for the gap in the inner fenderwell up front
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I used a corvette radiator and dual electric fans which keeps it cool. The truck still starts right up and runs strong. Hard to believe its been finished 20 years. I used a crane cam ground on a 108 lobe center for a lopey idle. Its more of a midrange cam but the 108 lobe center makes it sound bigger than it is.
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i keep it parked in my moms backyard. Next days off I will get up there and take pics of the engine compartment, steering setup, shifters, fuel filler setup in the bed
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This is how I connected the steering wheel to the steering gearbox. The slip yoke is bolted to the steering gearbox and the ID of it is actually hexagon shaped. The hexagon shaped male part is welded to the end of the shaft that is bolted to the steering column with a ujoint there. When you turn the steering wheel the shaft moves in and out of the slip yoke maybe 3/8" but you do need the slip yoke because of that.

You have to zoom the 2nd pic to see the end bolted to the steering column. You can also see the tube I used to splice 2 radiator hoses together because of the dista ce from the engine to the radiator
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I had to fab a tube to connect 2 radiator hoses for the lower radiator hose
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as well
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The fuel filler mounted in the bed. easy to connect with a hose to the full size oem blazer gas tank and yes that is a 42" spare
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There was plenty of space in front to weld in a plate and mount a winch to fill in that area
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