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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After 6 years i finally bought my first truck back, after selling it i really regretted it. Every time i saw it driving down the road the condition was worse and worse. When i sold the truck it was in great condition, no body damage no interior damage, just the wear of a 16 year old truck. I saw it sitting in a "cracker jack" mechanic shop stopped in and asked how much he wanted for it, when he said 650 i went to the bank and took out the money. Since he took the engine out i have decided i would rebuild it. I'm restoring the exterior and the engine to factory. i am rebuilding it as an spl truck so engine size is not important to me, i like the 2.8 liter. It will have a few minor changes to the exterior but that'll come as it goes along.


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)

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makes me think about if im making the right decision selling my 85 as its my first truck and have put a lot of time into damn man now you have got me thinking glad you got yours back though looks like its in decent shape besides the fact that someone would put that stuff inside the truck ruined a nice interior
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
makes me think about if im making the right decision selling my 85 as its my first truck and have put a lot of time into damn man now you have got me thinking glad you got yours back though looks like its in decent shape besides the fact that someone would put that stuff inside the truck ruined a nice interior
If it means anything to you I wouldn't sell it. It was literally a hunt to find mine and now I'm hunting to replace the pieces that have been destroyed the dash is completely going to have to be replaced.
 

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ya well mine has gotten to the point where i dont wanna look at it anymore ive payed almost double what i paid for it in parts so
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right now I'm stuck on removing the interior. The handle on the rear hatch is missing I have two switches on the dash, one on both sides of the radio. I'm assuming one is for defrost and the other is the hatch however the eh hole who painted the dash panels also cut the harness so before I go to touching wires together could someone tell me which side is which. Thanks
 

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No clue on that one
 

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Did 1985 come with an auto release rear glass?
Those switches look aftermarket to me.
Let me pull up a diagram and see if 85 had a auto release. You could always pull the rear gate cover and see. If you do, you will have one wire going into the gate.

OK, it is an orange wire going to the switch, power is from the 20A horn/CM fuse. From the switch is a brown wire that goes to the relay behind the I/P. From the relay if it's an auto it will be a Org/Blk wire to the shifter position switch. Once that is grounded the relay pulls close and closes the circuit to the rear release solenoid that grounds to the rear gate through the mount.
 

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Side note: Looking at the diagram, if you have a manual, you need to set the parking brake for it to ground the relay, this is good info for those of you who think yours is bad because it wont work, you need to depress the parking brake.
 

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i would like say yes on the 85 coming with rear glass release
i have an extra switch that i took from an 84 s-jimmy, its a rocker style instead of the newer style (push button)
 

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i would like say yes on the 85 coming with rear glass release

I established this when I posted the wire colors from the diagram....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did 1985 come with an auto release rear glass?
Those switches look aftermarket to me.
Let me pull up a diagram and see if 85 had a auto release. You could always pull the rear gate cover and see. If you do, you will have one wire going into the gate.

OK, it is an orange wire going to the switch, power is from the 20A horn/CM fuse. From the switch is a brown wire that goes to the relay behind the I/P. From the relay if it's an auto it will be a Org/Blk wire to the shifter position switch. Once that is grounded the relay pulls close and closes the circuit to the rear release solenoid that grounds to the rear gate through the mount.
Thanks for the info. I should have checked this today before I started pulling wires and tracing would have been aloe quicker. The switches are the factory ones they have just been "professionally" painted. I'm gonna go junk yard digging tomorrow and get the switch with the harness still attached tomorrow I did get the rear glass open after busting out more of the lock mechanism and proding around abit with my finger. Again thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did 1985 come with an auto release rear glass?
Those switches look aftermarket to me.
Let me pull up a diagram and see if 85 had a auto release. You could always pull the rear gate cover and see. If you do, you will have one wire going into the gate.

OK, it is an orange wire going to the switch, power is from the 20A horn/CM fuse. From the switch is a brown wire that goes to the relay behind the I/P. From the relay if it's an auto it will be a Org/Blk wire to the shifter position switch. Once that is grounded the relay pulls close and closes the circuit to the rear release solenoid that grounds to the rear gate through the mount.
I also figured its probably not working since my shifter was in reverse, ive gotta take a picture when i get back home tonight and see if you can tell me what it is, the thing is white and sits atop the steering column. it is what the black wire that runs to the glass release comes from and its hooked into the relay. i'll get a picture posted later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i was just stating that i have an extra one lying around that i dont need as i own an 89 model
Is it the whole switch with the plug still attached. If so would you wanna sell it I've been looking and can't find one anywhere.
 

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pm me your info
ill give it to you for the cost of shipping
its the switch down to the connector in the dash with an additional maybe 6in. wire on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So far I've removed all the interior except for the dash, not ready for that part yet, i threw the old carpet away and am getting ready to rough up the inside the spray in undercoating. i had a few spots starting to rust but not many. after undercoating I'm going to layer it with sound deadener on the doors, sides and roof. I started working on the headliner tonight, i removed all the old stuff, the headliner is a little worn out and tender in some spots but i think its still good. I do have a huge gash in the head liner, does anyone know if they make a headliner repair kit. Also I've started cleaning all the factory plastic pieces and repainting them to give them a cleaner look.
 

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I would be interested to hear about your progress with the interior; I'm at the beginning of doing the same thing (pulling everything apart and scrubbing that is).

I decided I'm going headliner-less after mine sort of fell apart while I was taking it out. The inside of the roof actually looks pretty clean, on mine at least nothing sticks out and it is evenly painted so that is sort of cool..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i managed to save a lot of the headliner and I'm going to reinforce the weak parts. The headliner is now waiting on my decision of tweed or headliner material. my seats and door panels have the factory tweed in them and i really like it but just don't know if that will be too much tweed. i have pictures i just have not had the time to transfer them from my mac to my laptop. i have them uploaded to my flicker account. http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625309024642/ Today i scrubbed the inside floor, removed what little rust was on there, wiped it all down with alcohol and sprayed in the undercoating. the undercoating is great on the inside if you want to eliminate some road noise and it only took three cans to do the hole inside (floor only) i used 3m undercoating from o'reilly's it was about 12 bucks a can. i will spray in three layers before I'm done with it. http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625309024642/
 
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