[Citadelle]

So, This 85 Was a family vehicle that my brother was driving for his first vehicle, they had said it was burning oil so he was constantly adding oil into it, and it kept "breaking down" yet gave me no idea of what they meant, breaking down how or why. So they parked it for 4 Years, 2 years ago they said they jumped it and it ran fine but just left it there. So here i am wanting another truck.
ANYWAYS
New battery, drained tank added new gas, Cranked hard with no fire. tested fuel injector/cleaned, no fire, replaced pump (which actually had went bad) still no fire, changed spark plugs, no fire, changed the icm, no fire, then changed the fuel injector, no fire. added fuel filter as fuel was not getting to the injector, no fire, added new fuel line, no fire.

People say to test for fuel pressure, but with my gauge how do i test pressure if the vehicle isnt running? does the tester tap in and just measure normal pressure when the key is on? and if the pressure is low with a new pump what do i do.

I pulled the ECM and see no real visible damage apart from a minute minute minute amount of rust, small enough i dont think it would affect it. And that is the last thing i want to change due to ordering and price,
I have seen in a few other forums about the Ignition coil causing issues, but if i have spark and crank that shouldnt cause the injector to fire, right?
Some have spoke of a PCM ground, yet i have no idea what or where that is at on the 1985 s10, and my manual doesnt call it out.

Also, if i pull the top casing that holds the fuel injector in and the fuel pressure regulator, there is that square gasket with a pivoting disk, thats the fuel pressure regulator, but under that, is a cylindrical reservoir that bolts into the top casing, sealing the gasket for the FPR, and that has this ball on the bottom that looks fused somehow and i wonder if that has anything to do with getting gas to the injector, because all of that area, the whole throttle body is completely bone dry as if its not getting gas to the TBI.

Does any body have experience with this, ive seen many other posts without any clear advice to solve this issue.
Thanks

Repair list

• Fuel Pump
• ICM
• Injector
• Fuel Filter
• Fuel Lines
• Spark Plugs
• Fuses
• Drained tank and added new gas

 

[Robbo]

It's been very helpful to me on this forum when I have learned from some of the experienced people how to test things on this engine, so maybe maybe I can help there. My 86 was a family vehicle also, and they didn't have much experience working on it either. Diagnostic tools are fairly inexpensive right now, so I tend to encourage investing in those. Timing light, spark testers, compression tester, fuel pressure tester, volt meter.

It sounds like you're saying that you do have spark. For future reference, Haynes manual spells out how to jumper the wires on the ALDL in order to test spark timing. You can see the fuel spray with a timing light also once you get the injector working somewhat. I wonder if the engine would fire on starting fluid. I remember you said you put some fuel in the intake.

The Haynes manual describes how to disassemble the model 300 throttle body, which it sounds like you have. It looks like you have to pry the injector out. I wouldn't do any of that until you confirm that you have fuel pressure and that the injector is being energized. It's hard for me to visualize what parts you're talking about taking apart. I've never tried it, but the Haynes manual says you can jumber certain pins on the ALDL to manually turn on the fuel pump, but it should come up to pressure as soon as you turn the key or start to crank. Also, I just looked, and the harbor freight fuel test kit comes with a "GM TBI" adapter, which looks like it can be installed directly in the fuel line without cutting. I installed a permanent gauge on my fuel line from Summit Racing, but I wouldn't necessary recommend that. I'm having trouble understanding what you're asking about regarding the ECM, spark, and injector firing.

I would check the injector with my handheld oscilloscope, but you should be able to see if the injector is getting energized using a volt meter, maybe set on AC.

 

[Citadelle]

It's been very helpful to me on this forum when I have learned from some of the experienced people how to test things on this engine, so maybe maybe I can help there. My 86 was a family vehicle also, and they didn't have much experience working on it either. Diagnostic tools are fairly inexpensive right now, so I tend to encourage investing in those. Timing light, spark testers, compression tester, fuel pressure tester, volt meter.

It sounds like you're saying that you do have spark. For future reference, Haynes manual spells out how to jumper the wires on the ALDL in order to test spark timing. You can see the fuel spray with a timing light also once you get the injector working somewhat. I wonder if the engine would fire on starting fluid. I remember you said you put some fuel in the intake.

The Haynes manual describes how to disassemble the model 300 throttle body, which it sounds like you have. It looks like you have to pry the injector out. I wouldn't do any of that until you confirm that you have fuel pressure and that the injector is being energized. It's hard for me to visualize what parts you're talking about taking apart. I've never tried it, but the Haynes manual says you can jumber certain pins on the ALDL to manually turn on the fuel pump, but it should come up to pressure as soon as you turn the key or start to crank. Also, I just looked, and the harbor freight fuel test kit comes with a "GM TBI" adapter, which looks like it can be installed directly in the fuel line without cutting. I installed a permanent gauge on my fuel line from Summit Racing, but I wouldn't necessary recommend that. I'm having trouble understanding what you're asking about regarding the ECM, spark, and injector firing.

I would check the injector with my handheld oscilloscope, but you should be able to see if the injector is getting energized using a volt meter, maybe set on AC.

thanks for the info, I’ve done most of these tests. But I think I might know where the issue is, I found out that my Hall effect was broken in the distributor, so I’m currently trying to take that out to replace it. I’ve heard it is what sends the signal to open the injector

 

[ColinWalls]

thanks for the info, I’ve done most of these tests. But I think I might know where the issue is, I found out that my Hall effect was broken in the distributor, so I’m currently trying to take that out to replace it. I’ve heard it is what sends the signal to open the injector

I just got my 88 running that has sat for 10 years. I had to replace the distributor as well to get it going. I replaced everything in the ignition but it was the actual distributor causing no spark.

 

[Citadelle]

I just got my 88 running that has sat for 10 years. I had to replace the distributor as well to get it going. I replaced everything in the ignition but it was the actual distributor causing no spark.

Funny you say that, I just ended up doing that today, I pulled the distributor, and found more problems with it than normal. So I replaced it. Re connected everything. I went to finally start it, but still, not firing. Then I find out my fuel pump is no longer priming, or running for that matter. But I just replaced that a week ago. Which it was priming it then, I went to turn the key and I hear a POP. Small electrical smoke comes up from the engine. I go to look, can’t find any loose wire. No fuel obviously because the pump didn’t work. I pulled the bed off again, checked the wires to the pump, that was fine, checked the fuses. They were harbor freight fuses but they were fine. But still the pump won’t work. now I’m baffled and completely out of options

 

[Citadelle]

So I replaced everything, everything worked except the fuel injector wasn’t firing due to the distributor, I replace the distributor and now the fuel pump stopped priming or working. And if I crank the engine a small pop happens like something grounding out that shouldn’t be and I get a small amount of smoke. I’m losing it

 

[ColinWalls]

So I replaced everything, everything worked except the fuel injector wasn’t firing due to the distributor, I replace the distributor and now the fuel pump stopped priming or working. And if I crank the engine a small pop happens like something grounding out that shouldn’t be and I get a small amount of smoke. I’m losing it

Check your timing. Where is the smoke coming from when you try and start it? Is it coming from the throttle body? It could be out of time and cuasing issues.

 

[Citadelle]

Check your timing. Where is the smoke coming from when you try and start it? Is it coming from the throttle body? It could be out of time and cuasing issues.

Well I wouldn’t be able to tell that mainly because now the fuel pump refuses to even prime when I turn the key on.
Edit: and I just replaced it and it was working before I replaced the distributor

 

[ColinWalls]

Well I wouldn’t be able to tell that mainly because now the fuel pump refuses to even prime when I turn the key on.

Check the fuel pump relay. I think it is on the drivers side fender. Maybe swap the two relays that are on there.

 

[Citadelle]

Check the fuel pump relay. I think it is on the drivers side fender. Maybe swap the two relays that are on there.

Yeah I ran the wire to find the relay, but I don’t really know how to get it off, i tried pulling on it but
It wouldn’t come off. I might have to watch a video on it.

 

[ColinWalls]

Yeah I ran the wire to find the relay, but I don’t really know how to get it off, i tried pulling on it but
It wouldn’t come off. I might have to watch a video on it.

I have not removed mine but I assume its like all relays and you just pull it off.
Will it start if you spray a little starting fluid down the throttle body?
If not im assuming its still a spark/timing issue

 

[Citadelle]

I have not removed mine but I assume its like all relays and you just pull it off.
Will it start if you spray a little starting fluid down the throttle body?
If not im assuming its still a spark/timing issue

Yeah it will start if I do that, that was probably one of the first things I did. But I pulled the distributor and found the Hall effect switch was broken, and there was a wire tangled up and severed so I bought a new distributor. But then the fuel pump said bye

 

[ColinWalls]

Yeah it will start if I do that, that was probably one of the first things I did. But I pulled the distributor and found the Hall effect switch was broken, and there was a wire tangled up and severed so I bought a new distributor. But then the fuel pump said bye

Hmm. Check that relay and make sure you are getting power to the new pump. The new pump may have crapped out. I have seen it many times at work. Brand new fuel pump dead straight out of the box.