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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, first post.

I have a 1984 S10 Durango that I picked up for a song. Carbureted 2.8l 5spd. I love it. However, I don't trust the engine and trans.

I found a 1993 S10 with lower km that I also got on the cheap. The body and box are rotted out, but I believe the driveline is solid.

I want to put the engine and trans from the 1993 into the 1984, but keep the intake the same. Has anybody done this swap and does anybody know if the intake and headers from the 1984 will bolt up to the 1993 block?

I'm also not sure what I'd have to do wiring wise to mate the 1993 engine to the 1984 chassis.

I realize for my time and effort putting a 3.4 in would be the best bang for my buck, but I don't have one. I don't have or want a V8 either.

Any guidance would be much appreciated. Cheers
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Only issues you will run into is there is no boss on the block for the mechanical fuel pump your 84 uses. You will need to put an electric fuel pump on the truck. Either steal the stuff from the 93 or put an aftermarket outboard pump on it. That's what I did. Make sure it's low pressure. If you use the stock type EFI for 86 on trucks (like on the 93) , you will need a regulator to get the pressure down.
Do yourself a favor and keep the serpentine system from the 93. You will also need that adapter tube to clear the idler pulley bracket. Other than that hurdle, you can drop your intake right on that block. No other external differences.

Do yourself a favor and keep the serpentine system from the 93. You will also need that adapter tube to clear the idler pulley bracket. If you decide to use the v belts, you will need to mount your 84 pan and front cover to that engine which we all know is a leak waiting to happen. If you slap your V belts on the 93 cover it'll run hot because 87 on water pump runs backward. You could use an 86 (only) cover with your 93 oil pan and run V belts. Same rotation, but newer (and superior) sealing surface.

Personally? If this was me? If the other truck is running and complete, why not just drop the 93 stuff in and hook up a few wires to make the EFI work in the 84? More power, easier starts...better fuel economy. I did the EFI conversion, and if you have the whole donor truck? That would be cake compared to my install, and to note, even mine wasn't that bad. Inside, you'd only have to hook up the optical sensor for the speedo, (if your truck has cruise it already has it, but if not, the 93's will fit the old speedo head) and wire up the Check Engine light. There is already a place in the dash. You just have to solder a connector on the end of the wire on the ECM harness and push it into the empty hole in the cluster. Easy. Have to drill a hole in the firewall, but there's already a cleared place in the plastics where it would be in the 93. Weird...like they planned it ahead of time. The rest is really just swapping the guts. You could in theory just swap the entire wiring harness, dash wiring fuse box etc and all into the old 84 dash. They look radically different, but under the dash itself, it's the same old news as the 82-85 mostly.
 

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Thanks for the help, you're a gentleman and a scholar.

I'll be yanking my donor engine and trans tomorrow along with fuel tank, fenders, and basically anything I can get my hands on. Am I correct in assuming the entire engine and trans assembly can come out in one piece without pulling intake/headers/accessories if I take off the front clip first?
 

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Thanks for the help, you're a gentleman and a scholar.

I'll be yanking my donor engine and trans tomorrow along with fuel tank, fenders, and basically anything I can get my hands on. Am I correct in assuming the entire engine and trans assembly can come out in one piece without pulling intake/headers/accessories if I take off the front clip first?
You can take it out in one piece. Might help to pull the exhaust manifolds.
 

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The 93 rear is stronger and it's gear more suited to the 93 engine / trans. combo so you may want to change it also.
 

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The 93 rear is stronger and it's gear more suited to the 93 engine / trans. combo so you may want to change it also.
I'll check the codes when I get home tonight.

I took the liberty of 3D scanning my front end with the engine out, I want to see what I could fit in here down the road. It's not perfect, but I'll see what I can put together for CAD files to share.
336412
 

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That is ***. How’d you do that?
 

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That is ***. How’d you do that?
?‍♂ Science

I'm a mechanical engineering technologist by trade, part of my job involves running around to pulp mills and 3d scanning obsolete equipment and reverse engineering it to the point where we can manufacture a replacement. I used an Artec Eva scanner to capture the point cloud, which I will import into SolidWorks and go to work with the Geomagic plugin.

I did the swap this weekend. Had a couple hitches along the way, but as of right now I have a running, driving EFI 2.8l in a 1984 chassis. I ended up swapping every last shred of wiring from the 1993. I even reworked the gauge cluster plug to work with the original gauges. I've still gotta get the dashboard back in, but overall I'd say it's a success ?

The 1993 has the GU6 3.42 diff, but I wasn't able to find the RPO codes on the '84. Anyone have any guesses as to where the sticker is? I suppose I could always pop the cover off and count teeth...
 

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84 SPID sticker should have been in the same place. They seem to magically disappear over time.
 

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Boozebag
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The RPO sticker is in the Glove box. Or it's supposed to be. The glue they used on the earlier trux wasn't so great so it might have fallen off.
If you had a 2.8 + 5 speed, almost all that I have seen are factory equipped with the 3.73 rear gear. There may be a few 4.10s floating around, but unlikely.
I have gone to 3.42 G80 rear disc units in most of my rigs. It works out better over all and is almost not noticeable. Works out better for hiway driving too.
Most 4.3 newer trux and Blazers have the 3.42 gear.
 

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The RPO sticker is in the Glove box. Or it's supposed to be. The glue they used on the earlier trux wasn't so great so it might have fallen off.
If you had a 2.8 + 5 speed, almost all that I have seen are factory equipped with the 3.73 rear gear. There may be a few 4.10s floating around, but unlikely.
I have gone to 3.42 G80 rear disc units in most of my rigs. It works out better over all and is almost not noticeable. Works out better for hiway driving too.
Most 4.3 newer trux and Blazers have the 3.42 gear.
Occasionally the glove box some times get change so the code could be misleading, Ive found two that were switched.
 

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The 3.42 is most of the newer 4.3 trucks and it's bolt in. Be wary of the drums and backing plates. They don't always play nice. Mix them up and they'll scrape like a mofo.

Awesome you did the swap like that! Cool to see a truck like mine running around that is not what it should be. Very cool man.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The 3.42 is most of the newer 4.3 trucks and it's bolt in. Be wary of the drums and backing plates. They don't always play nice. Mix them up and they'll scrape like a mofo.

Awesome you did the swap like that! Cool to see a truck like mine running around that is not what it should be. Very cool man.
Thanks :)

See below for 3D scans in .ply, .stl and .obj format. Datum orientation is probably screwy, but I'll leave that for interested parties to solve.

 

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Boozebag
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One observation... Too bad you didn't change the timing chain while the engine was out. They are well known to stretch severely. JK will attest to that.
It makes the overall driveability better (power and MPG). It's easy to check the stretch.
Pop the distributor cap, turn engine and watch rotor move. Slowly turn the opposite direction and note how much movement the harmonic balancer takes to make the rotor move again.
I've seen as much as 1/8" rotation.
Chain kits are not expensive.
Congrats on the swap!
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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One observation... Too bad you didn't change the timing chain while the engine was out. They are well known to stretch severely. JK will attest to that.
It makes the overall driveability better (power and MPG). It's easy to check the stretch.
Pop the distributor cap, turn engine and watch rotor move. Slowly turn the opposite direction and note how much movement the harmonic balancer takes to make the rotor move again.
I've seen as much as 1/8" rotation.
Chain kits are not expensive.
Congrats on the swap!
Sure can. I couldn't believe it wasn't making noise honestly or jumped off. It was shot. Motor had about 120k on it best I remember. It's not too hard to replace even in the truck. A cinch while out though.
 

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Just curious, what hurdles did you find swapping the stuff into the 84?
 
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