Can anyone tell me where I can get a Carburetor Base plat with heater for my 83 S10 v6 2.8L. I had to remove the carburetor and the old base plate with heater broke. Now i'm not able to find one at any auto parts supplier, LMC or Rock Auto. Is it even necessary? or can i simply use a base plate without heater? Thanks in advance for for the help.
1983 S10 V6 2.8L Carburetor Base Plate with Heater
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That part is no longer available IIRC. A lot of the guys are going to Weber carbs. I think @Mad Max or @Mostizzle can point you in the right direction.
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Found this info from Walker Go here and scroll down https://www.walkerproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/efe-heater-gaskets.pdf
Found part Walker # G1308 on Amazon Amazon.com: Walker Products G1308 Carb Evaporation Heater Gasket: Automotive
Found these 2 on ebay 14033194 efe heater | eBay
Kind of a pricey heater
Good luck
Found part Walker # G1308 on Amazon Amazon.com: Walker Products G1308 Carb Evaporation Heater Gasket: Automotive
Found these 2 on ebay 14033194 efe heater | eBay
Kind of a pricey heater
Good luck
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Sounds like time to go junkyard shopping? Probably already removed on most trucks, tho. But GM did put the carbed 2.8 in other vehicles back into the late 70's which might still have it.
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The guy who rebuilt the carburetor on my '85 told me that whether or not you actually need this EFE Heater depends on where you live. For example, I'm in central NC, and he said we don't need it here. It's just not cold enough. He told me I might need it for cold starts if I lived in the upper Midwest U.S. where it gets down near 0F and stays below freezing for days. He gave me a plain gasket to use with my carb, and it starts just fine.
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Thanks for the tag Pursuit
I have eliminated the heater on several S10s with no adverse affects- even in winter weather.
The heater unit becomes non functional over time as you have probably discovered, and you didn't actually know it was not working.
You may even notice a very slight performance improvement - better throttle response at slower speeds.
The non heater gasket is available at most parts stores.
I'm pretty sure you can source the gasket from a 78 Chevy citation with a 2.5 iron Duke engine.. Same carb without the heat.
Too bad you spent $$ on rebuilding the stock Bogchester. A replacement Weber is the way to go
I'm tired of saying that.
I have eliminated the heater on several S10s with no adverse affects- even in winter weather.
The heater unit becomes non functional over time as you have probably discovered, and you didn't actually know it was not working.
You may even notice a very slight performance improvement - better throttle response at slower speeds.
The non heater gasket is available at most parts stores.
I'm pretty sure you can source the gasket from a 78 Chevy citation with a 2.5 iron Duke engine.. Same carb without the heat.
Too bad you spent $$ on rebuilding the stock Bogchester. A replacement Weber is the way to go
I'm tired of saying that.
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Maybe a new signature or link is in your future... 😂
Thanks for your help on this. I believe i still have time to stop the carb rebuild on the original Varajet. Can you please tell me if the Weber would be a direct fit without having to modify things. Any other info i need to know to make the switch? this old truck is starting to drain me financially. Wanted it as a daily driver its been one thing after another.
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Definitely go with weber. They are definitely becoming more popular. The efe gasket with the connector you don't need. Period. I live in upstate NY and when I put my weber on years ago I went with the normal base gasket. It saw 95 degree days all the way down -30 wind chills. Absolutely no issues. As MadMax said above, I'm tires of saying that lol. Bogchester go bye bye. The webers have become more popular since I threw one on years ago, but man what a difference.
By the way, only little modification is needed, like fuel line, pcv hose, throttle cable, and sometimes air cleaner (i got one from weber, but then modified my air cleaner baseplate to fit it as well.)
By the way, only little modification is needed, like fuel line, pcv hose, throttle cable, and sometimes air cleaner (i got one from weber, but then modified my air cleaner baseplate to fit it as well.)
Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated.
Any chance you could elaborate on “Little Modification”. I get really irritated when working on the carb because everything’s so difficult to get too.
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I only have a few pics when I did it. Fuel line goes on same side just uses a rubber hose on inlet instead of threaded fitting. The pcv hose runs from pcv valve to passenger side of carb on barbed fitting. Throttle linkage runs on pass side of carb, which goes right on. Electric choke is on the front, and can be adjusted by turning it. Mixture screws, one is in front, one is in back. As for air cleaner, I included a pic of one that came with it and one I modified to fit. Oh yea, and the emissions hoses basically all i had left was vacuum advance and another hose which i think ran to front canister. Again its in pics I forgot been a while.
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^^^ Pretty much right on the $$.
The kit is a plug and play. All of the ones I've used have instructions, but having done so many conversions, they are all the same.
It sounds like you've had some relations with screw drivers and wrenches
rolleyes So I'm pretty confident that you can do this swap.
The best part... I want to see a GO PRO picture of your face the first time you crush the loud pedal.
Ha
It really makes as a large difference in performance.
The kit is a plug and play. All of the ones I've used have instructions, but having done so many conversions, they are all the same.
It sounds like you've had some relations with screw drivers and wrenches
rolleyes So I'm pretty confident that you can do this swap.The best part... I want to see a GO PRO picture of your face the first time you crush the loud pedal.
Ha
It really makes as a large difference in performance.
1983-1985 Chevrolet S10 Blazer Carburetor Kit - Carburetion - Redline 83-85 S10 Blazer Carburetor Kit - 3644-01118624 - PartsGeek
Discount auto parts and accessories catalog for all foreign and import cars and trucks. Low Prices, Quality, Service and Free shipping.
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Years ago....and I mean YEARS ago, my truck still had the Rochester carb. What a turd. The truck started to run really rough one time, and I sprayed around the carb and noticed this MASSIVE vacuum leak. Took of the carb and saw that the heater had turned to dust, and I guess the chunks had gotten sucked into the motor. No damage fortunately, but it was trashed. I put a regular gasket on it and never thought about it again. There are no used ones or new ones. They are made of unobtainium.
I personally cannot comment on the Weber, but I had a 4bbl on mine after a fire due to flooding caused by a stuck float and a backfire almost ended my relationship with the truck in 2005. The 4bbl was like I had put a 4.3 in it. I was floored by the change in performance, and the mileage was better if I kept my foot out of it. These days my truck runs a modified stock 91 EFI system with a crate 3.4.
I personally cannot comment on the Weber, but I had a 4bbl on mine after a fire due to flooding caused by a stuck float and a backfire almost ended my relationship with the truck in 2005. The 4bbl was like I had put a 4.3 in it. I was floored by the change in performance, and the mileage was better if I kept my foot out of it. These days my truck runs a modified stock 91 EFI system with a crate 3.4.
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I did the Weber conversion a few years ago. It's not "plug and play" but it was close. The Weber to Varajet adapter was made wrong and I had to enlarge two of the four holes to make it work. And there was no way that the TV cable for the 700R4 was going to attach to the supplied bracket, it looked like it was for the kickdown on a TH350. Had to grind it off and replace it with a different one. Webers like very low pressure so you need a regulator.
Update:
Update: I went and got a Weber and just like you said guys said its night and day difference. Installed it and truck runs fine but i can smell it running rich. Redline support was very short with me and asked if i had installed a fuel pressure regulator because the mechanical fuel pump has about 7psi and the redline can only handle 3psi. Is this true and if so which one would i need to get? Sounds like a "Deadhead style" is all i need, but not sure. Thanks again for all you guys that helped me on this Carb issue.
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Most people who install these don't add a fuel reggy.
I think that your "rich" is idle mix. Unless the float is being overcome (doubtful) the engine would most likely stall since raw fuel would enter the intake manifold.
Find the idle mix screw (at the base of the primary barrel) and while the engine is running, turn it in SLOWLY until the engine starts to stumble. Back it out until the engine idles smoothly, then add a little more outy.
Just a small fraction of a turn.
I bet it changes your rich issue.
These carbs come pre jetted form most smaller displacement engines, and they are usually pretty close - out of the box.
Post pix if you can.
I think that your "rich" is idle mix. Unless the float is being overcome (doubtful) the engine would most likely stall since raw fuel would enter the intake manifold.
Find the idle mix screw (at the base of the primary barrel) and while the engine is running, turn it in SLOWLY until the engine starts to stumble. Back it out until the engine idles smoothly, then add a little more outy.
Just a small fraction of a turn.
I bet it changes your rich issue.
These carbs come pre jetted form most smaller displacement engines, and they are usually pretty close - out of the box.
Post pix if you can.
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The heater grid was designed to burn off vapors of fuel during warm ups and pre- heat fuel mixtures for clean efficient burn. if not able to find new one a basic base plate gasket will work but may use more fuel in the long term milage.
Year old thread.
Throw the heater away. Throw the carburetor in the trash.. Weber or Holley. Problem solved.
Throw the heater away. Throw the carburetor in the trash.. Weber or Holley. Problem solved.
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