[nomadrgr]

I've got a 99 sonoma, GU6, 4.3 auto with approx 112k mi. Ok, I've had this rubbing noise coming from my rear end for a while now, maybe 2.5k mi, and found a lot of metal shavings in the diff oil. The noise wasn't loud, but noticeable at first. I'm figuring the shavings came from the magnet that was in there, as there is only a third of the magnet left now. I looked at the ring gear as best i could and didn't notice any abnormal wear marks or metal missing from the gear. Am I correct in thinking that the magnet shavings got into my wheel bearings and are creating this "rubbing" noise coming from the axle? Thanks in advance.

 

[zerogravity58]

Is it still doing it since you changed the oil? if it is i would check bearings. they dont go bad often but they do. If it is a bearing it will gradually get worse.

 

[nomadrgr]

Believe it or not, I've changed the fluid twice since the noise first started in 2009. I've only driven the truck maybe 10k miles since then and a thousand miles in the last month due to switching jobs and not having a company truck anymore. Anyways, I thought it may have been a belt in the tires came loose, but the tires haven't blown. I will replace the axle bearings next weekend and report back my findings. Thanks for the input zero.

 

[nomadrgr]

I'm a little late, but I found the noise I was hearing... It was the passenger side front inner wheel bearing. Go figure! I changed it along with the driver side inner bearing and it's awesome not to hear that awful noise. Thanks for yalls input. Peace out

 

[N2 Extremes]

I'm back w/more questions :/ Seems like the more I research the more questions I have.

I have pretty much decided to stick w/the 7.65" in my truck to reduce drag and keep fuel economy as good as possibleand while using a LSD/POSI Carrier.

I'm not sure what carrier would be best for me " price is a big factor for me ".

I'm thinking of trying to get a Zexel out of a 98-02 Z28/SS or TA/Firebird and if I can't find one in the bone yards locally then I may just end up getting the Eaton/Detroit TrueTrack.

Which of the two listed above would give the best streetable ride/performance and fuel economy. I'd like to have my tires last as long as possible too.

Regarding Drum to Disk Swops. Will any Blazer/Jimmy Disk Brake Set up swop right onto the Drum Brake Axles? Do the disk donors need to be from a specific range of years?

Also still think I have bent Axles but not 100% sure. Is there a for sure way to test the Axles out of the truck so I can test Axles at the bone yard before I purchase them?

Do the Zexel Carriers only come in the LS1 and up equiped F-Bodied cars?

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to know as much as possible before I start buying stuff I don't need or can't use and be stuck w/them :/

 

[N2 Extremes]

Bump :

Update :

I found a Zexel Torsen at Pick N Pull in a 1999 Camaro V6 HO vehicle. Now I need a good set of berrings and shims because the backlash was at best .011 just out of tollorance.

Can any one tell me who makes the best berrings and shims for the best price? I only need the carrier berrings and shims and have not had any luck just finding just the carrier berrings. I'm only finding the whole rear rebuild kit w/every thing needed for pinion and so forth and I don't need all that so I'm thinking it will be a waste of money to purchase a whole kit like that if I can just buy the berrings and shims.

I found this the Richmond shim kit and was wondering if it's any good and will it have the right combo I need?

 

[N2 Extremes]

Damn I just love it when no one shoes any love!

 

[89shortbox]

Good info.

My experience with 7.5 has been Meh. 81 cutlass ran for years in the low 14s @ 3800 lbs. with 4.11 gear.
Put some more power to it and ran it one summer going 12.5s. Pulled it to swap in a 9 inch and found 2 teeth and broke off the ring gear but it never had any problems.

92 s10, 3.42 gear with minispool 3150 lbs. Ran high 14s for years. Sprayed it for a few years into the mid 12s. Last 3 years its been turbo charged going high 11s. Been waiting for it to break.
Both vehicles always been raced on slicks.

Seen lots for stick cars repeatedly break these rear ends. I personally thing lighter vehicles with an auto helps these rearends live. Otherwise IMO they are not worth putting money into.

 

[blueLS10]

I've read through here and haven't seen any useful info on what to do with the driveshaft. My truck is a 98 ext cab 2wd that had a 7.5 in it, I just put an 8.5 in it. I have the 2 piece driveshaft that has the circular flange that bolts up to the rear, the spline count between the 7.5-8.5 is different so I can't swap put yokes.Anyone know how to hook up the driveshaft? what are my options? Is there a bolt style flange for the 8.5 I can buy? Can I remove the flange from the driveshaft and just hook up the ujoint to the rear? Do I need a new driveshaft?

 

[N2 Extremes]

Hey blue call your local drive line speacialty shop they should be able to give you a good solution for a reasonable price if no one here is able to give you the advice you need. Good luck.

 

[zerogravity58]

The driveshaft will have to be shortened roughly a 1.5" if I remember right

 

[blueLS10]

Thanks n2 I'll have to stop by and ask them. Zero- is there any other way around it , or does it for sure need to be shortened?

 

[Straight Success]

Reviving this thread with a question.

If I have a 8.5" rear out of a 4WD Blazer, couldn't I get both sides shortened by 2.25", balanced, and the use the splined axles from my 7.5"/7.625" rear?

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Do not....revive a 15 year old thread. Just start a new one. If you feel the need, just provide a link to the dead thread.

 

[oldeerslayer]

Blazer rear wheel bearing:
NATIONAL 5707 Bore=1.4016", Outer Diameter=2.252", Width=0.698"
FitsRear; 7.625" Ring Gear; Axle Code "K"; Mfg. in Canada
orRear; 8.625" Ring Gear; Axle Code "K"; Mfg. in Canada
orRear; 7.625" Ring Gear; Axle Code "C"; Mfg. in USA
orRear; 8.625" Ring Gear; Axle Code "C"; Mfg. in USA

BUT:
NATIONAL 6408
Rear; 8.625" Ring Gear; Wide Stance (ZR2 [all are limited slip])
Bore 1.622"
Outer Diameter 2.531"
Width 0.8624"

OR
NATIONAL 513023
Rear; 7.625" Ring Gear; Limited Slip
Bore 1.3995"
Outer Diameter 2.44"
Width 0.865"

At first glance it appears as though they are both the same regarding the wheel bearings. But upon further investigation, it appears that if either housings or axles are from a limited slip rear end it won't work.
It appears there are at least 3 different wheel bearings with 3 different inner and outer diameters. You can use the 7.6 axle shafts in 1 of the 2 possible 8.6 housings with one of the 2 possible axle shafts.

If you are going to do that much work, just get a stronger 8.8 Explorer rear end and an extra short side axle. Cut the long side of the axle to the same length as the short side and slip in the extra axle. Most Explorers were 3.73 posi. The most popular combo for built S-10's.

PM big gear head - he knows this stuff inside out.

 

[big gear head]

Start a new thread.

8.5 has 30 spline axles and the 7.5 has 28 spline axles. Won't work.

 

[manbearpig]

I guess this wasn't good enough for a sticky? I've got this thread bookmarked, always a good one to reference.

 

[dime-dozen]

please dont cut up a 4WD 8.6 rear
they are just too hard to find

 

[Straight Success]

Going forward, I'll leave the old threads in the past.




And, I say this proud as a Bow Tie Boy - I will not be putting anything Ford into or on my Chevy anything. :not:

On another note, there will be no need for cutting up the 8.5 4WD rear. I picked up a 8.5 2WD rear. I'll keep reading to find the best posi rear end for my goals to throw in there. Now I have to think if I want to keep the 3:42 ratio or go with 3:73. I'll make the correct choice.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

^^^This is why useful threads are not stickies...too much useless junk.