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· BumblBXtreme
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hey i cant figure out if i have a 8.5" rear end. i have a 2003 s10 extreme 5 speed. these pictures arent great but tell me what you think it is

 

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I've got a 2003 s10 base model truck with 2.2L and 5speed trans. I swapped the 3.73 drum brake open rear with a 3.42 posi with disk brakes. The swap went great. Only had to move one bracket for the E brake, everything else bolted right up. The problem I'm having is the ABS sensor for the rear wheels is in the tail shaft of the trans and it can't figure out why the back wheels are turning slower than the front because of the 3.42 setup in the new rear. I went to the chevy dealer to see if they could reflash the computor to let it know about the new 3.42 gear ratio and then it would know the wheels were turning at the same speed but was told no way. Should I try and find a PCM off another truck or? As soon as the computor senses what it thinks is a difference in wheel speed it shuts down the abs and the light comes on. I bought the truck for my kids so they could learn to drive a stick and they all have. The last two kids still use the truck so I'm trying to get the ABS squared away for them. Thanks for any help
 

· FWD's suck
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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
You might have to send out the computer or find someone local who has tuning software such as EFI live or HP tuners. They should be able to change it. Also im alot behind on this thread but those pictures are of a 8.5 10 bolt.
 

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I've skimmed throught this and found:
I'll need some gears and a posi carrier and a cover for my open 7.5 10 bolt gu6.
iut'll be about 600$
I'd like to know, will it last in a v8 with 350ish wheel horsepower and 275-295 rear tires (not slicks but still big meaty tires)
I don't wanna dump 600 and then find i'll need to buy a new rear in 3 months. It's a daily driver, no strip.
 

· I love my truck
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94 Posts
Wow so much information to take on in the 245 posts I read up till now. I like the idea of having a 8.5 and am wondering if it's worth it to know I'll never have to worry about my rear end going out on me no matter what.

I'm reading and learning all this for questions about the truck in my sig below. So Far I learned that I can find a 8.5 122.9 on some s10's w/a 4.3L and 5spd tranny as well as in the blazers w/the 4.3L and 5spd's but do the auto 4.3L trucks or blazers come equiped w/the 8.5 in 2wd in vehicles other than the ZR2 package? I tow a boat w/my truck and load it up often w/heavy stuff and I think the rear is going out or the universal joints are going out or both. So I'm thinking to just find a good 8.5 w/disk brakes from a blazer and be done w/it so I don't have to worry about it breaking on me and so I don't have to miss match all kinds of parts from other vehicles like camaro's to get the 4 wheel disk brakes I have always wanted. What do you guys think?
 

· FWD's suck
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #247 ·
If you have a s10 a 4wd blazer rearend will fit but it is 4.5" wider then stock on each end. a 2wd rear is 54.5" wide and a 4wd rear is 59" wide. ive seen many 2wd 4.3L manual extremes with 8.5 10 bolts, they are out but they can be hard to find. Also if you truck is a extended cab they ususally have the cardine joints in the rear half of the driveshaft. They are junk. You can replace the backhalf of the driveshave with one that has regular u joints.
 

· I love my truck
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Thank you for quick reply zero. I'll be heading out to the junk yard today to try and find one of these elusive 8.5 10 bolt that will plug and play w/my truck and stock Xtreme Wheels. :rotf:

Now that I know how to look at the rear end and the codes in the glove box I think I'm all set to begin the easter egg hunt.:bugeye:

Just so I get this right... basically GM did not put the 8.5 / 10 bolt in the 2wd 4.3 Auto vehicles ?

Edit: I've always thought it would be nice to have a 4wd or AWD Extreme :tup: I'm starting to think it would be easier to do that because parts should be more readily available in the salvage yards.
 

· FWD's suck
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #250 ·
another thing i forgot it your driveshaft will also be about a 1-1 1/2 to long. You will have to get another back half of the driveshaft made or get one from a ext cab truck.
 

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287 Posts
I had mine shortened after swapping the old 7.5 rearend in my 1988 with one out of a 2002 ZR2 which was an 8.5. Which despite mine being a 4wd. Was still 4 inches wider. (From previous research a 4wd rearend is 4 inches wider than a 2wd and a ZR2 is 8 inches wider than the 2wd.)

It was shortened about 1 inch and balanced. Paid just under $200 for shorten, balance, and new ujoints thrown on. Have some pics in another thread. But you don't want to skimp on the driveline and not have it balanced if you have it shortened.
 

· FWD's suck
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Discussion Starter · #255 ·
your wheels should fit fine. I ran a set of 15" convo pros over my disk brakes but only had about 1/8" between the calipers and wheels. 16" should clear fine. Any driveline shop can shorten the driveshaft for you.
 

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426 Posts
For a diff carrier, would a Detroit Truetrac be acceptable? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-912a317

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...utomotiveAftermarket/Differentials/PCT_221471

I'm not planning on doing crazy power with my current S10 but when I have the extra cash I want to rebuild the 7.625 I have laying around.

I got a sb 350 that is supposedly from a 79 vette. Spent some time one day looking around online and stock they "made" 290 hp but I am sure it is upwards the 350 - 400 Hp mark now (not sure, I didn't do any of the engine work).

Also, the C clip eliminators that are in the first post, the way the descriptions are on summit, make it sound like I can't use them on my rear end. Has anyone here used them? And if so which would I most likely need if I decide to get a set? 1988 2wd originally a 2.5 with a 7 5/8 rear.

I would like to keep the original 7 5/8 rear end instead of throwing a ford 9 or hunting for expensive 8.5's. Less weight I guess and I don't need to hack at the driveshaft.
 

· FWD's suck
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #258 ·
I dont know how much you drive the truck but the c-clip eliminators arent really made for everyday driving. I used them on my 8.5 and they worked fine but it was a dragtruck and saw some street time but now much. To use them you have to cut the original seal/bearing race out so once they go on there isnt really any going back.
 

· 9" strait pipes...
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3,695 Posts
Thanks for the small input on the c clip eliminator kits. I didn't know much about them (still don't) but at least I know what is involved with installing them. Probably won't ever need to consider them in my truck then.
thye are only required when you are putting some serious power to the ground and racing. the c clips have been known to shear off under high loads and launches and an axle will come out the side, unless you are running disks in the rear in which case the caliper will hold the axle in.
 
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