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02 s-10

1993 Views 47 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  chas58
hello to all glad be here ty guys and gals, i just got a 02 s-10 and i was wandering if its a z71 or a zr2 or its just standerd s-10 i looked up the vin and this is what it says.... i was wanderin if all the things been listed is what it had done to it also , any help thanks to all
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They never made a 4 door ZR2.
They did make a 4 door ZR5. Yours is not one.
It wasn't an off road package. Just a bunch of bling. Like roof rack and bed rails.
Just to confuse people I put ZR5 wheels on my ZR2. As far as the 4 door ZR2, a couple have been hand built using an extended cab ZR2 frame and some fabrication. Was a post on here recently of a nice converted one. Too bad the poster wasn't as nice as his truck.
Stickers on a bed mean nothing. I could turn mine into a Ford 8.0L 4wd twin turbo Lightning just by buying stickers off ebay.
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That's a pic of a ZR5. It has the roof rack, bed rails, little flares, and ZR5 wheels. The sticker also has a "5" on it. As I mentioned above it's not an off road package with heavier rear differential and lifted suspension. Instead is a trip thru some auto parts store's accessories department. It talks the talk, but cant walk the walk.
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Another point on the stock fan is that it is temperature controlled and only uses HP when it's needed. That's the reason for the viscous clutch on the fan. When the incoming air is hot it tightens up. When it's not needed it freewheels. Most electrics are always drawing power when the A/C is on or the engine temp is up a bit. Or both. Which makes the alternator use more HP.
Sounds to me like you're robbing Peter to pay Paul. Not to mention that if the electric fans aren't properly shrouded and wired weather tight you are asking for potential issues.
Back in they day I saw a lot of 3rd gen F-bodies, especially Z28's and Trans Am's with blown engines that had overheated due to electric fan failures. Usually caused by failed relays.
Just relax. We do tend to be a bit brutal with the comments sometimes, but no harm intended and it's not personal.
Same as bunch of guys standing around in a shop taking good natured jabs at each other. The new guy always gets the worst of it.
College boys call it initiation or hazing. Shrinks call it the rite of passage.
Let's try to get back to the truck and stop taking shots.
My only comment on that stuff is the easier a post is to read the more I'm inclined to help. Proof reading before hitting send takes a few seconds.
Regarding your truck:
I just checked the 3rd brake light on the truck and I got to trace down the wires.
I'm losing 12v when I hit the brakes.
Gonna have get the schematic on the wiring to trace it down .....
Can I assume that you mean when you hit the brakes the CHMSL does not light?
They eat bulbs because GM put too much heat in too small of a space. Check the bulbs first. Replacing the 2 578 bulbs with LED's is the only place I'd recommend use of LED's on an S10. To reduce the heat inside the light housing. Prevents melted lenses and burned out bulbs.

Then check the vehicle CHMSL fuse in the under hood fuse box (UBEC - Underhood Bussed Electrical Center).
The power for the CHMSL goes from the brake light switch thru that fuse, then directly to the 2 bulbs.

Don't be confused by or misled and mess with the CHMSL relay. That is strictly for the extra, not connected to anything, wire in the tail light harness. Which can be used for a CHMSL on a cap or trailer. That relay is over engineering and can be removed with no ill effects to any brake lights. Gm put it there because who knows what some knuckle head might use for a CHMSL on this back woods built trailer. The trailer CHMSL fuse can be blown w/o any effect on the remaining brake lights. GM engineers win a cookie for doing something right and being proactive for a change. (y)

BTW 58 is not old on this forum. There's folks on here that were in the armed forces when you were born.
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