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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I know people ask about the holley evap box, so here are some pics. Feel free to add these to a sticky for easier access. I know it sucks trying to find pics buried in someone's thread.

The blue tape is where the head contacted the box.

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So if a guy was to just notch that small lower area the original would work? I'm sure a little tin patch and some Gorilla Tape or some fiberglass would work. Maybe not as purdy, but I'm more of a form follows function guy.
On some models of Blazers they have an additional outer cover that has to be cut to replace the blower motor. The FSM says to use duct tape to repair the seams of the area you have to cut out and put back in. If it's good enough for the General, it's good enough for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
So if a guy was to just notch that small lower area the original would work? I'm sure a little tin patch and some Gorilla Tape or some fiberglass would work. Maybe not as purdy, but I'm more of a form follows function guy.
On some models of Blazers they have an additional outer cover that has to be cut to replace the blower motor. The FSM says to use duct tape to repair the seams of the area you have to cut out and put back in. If it's good enough for the General, it's good enough for me.
Some people mod the original box, patch it with fiberglass, and touch it up with paint. Others would rather have one less thing to do if funds allow.

Note to those wanting to use the holley box...the factory box is smooth texture vs the holley which has a grained texture.
 

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I wasn't a huge fan of Holley's solution for sealing. Would have much preferred using a foam seal like the factory rather than mushing butyl rubber rope in all the gaps. The instructions literally say to blob it around the outside after it's installed to seal any leaks you find...
 

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I wasn't a huge fan of Holley's solution for sealing. Would have much preferred using a foam seal like the factory rather than mushing butyl rubber rope in all the gaps. The instructions literally say to blob it around the outside after it's installed to seal any leaks you find...
Yikes... makes modding it seem all the more appealing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Fyi...if you are keeping the oil pressure sensor on the valley cover, confirm you have clearance to the intake manifold. I am using a FAST intake. It does not clear. I broke a sensor to learn that lesson.

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Interesting. I guess I'm about to be frustrated and and have fun with mine.
The lower shell sticks out past the upper shell. I just used a dremel with sanding drum and matched the lip to the upper shell. If your heads were machined, the headbolts may contact the bottom of the intake. I can share a pic of that if you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I'm trying to figure out which power steering hoses I need. Based on my search, it looks like the stock high pressure line from the booster to the steering gear will work. I guess I need some reassurance that's correct and also which line from the pump to hydroboost unit.

I'm using the corvette accessories which has the high pressure port on the bottom of the pump vs on the back as the truck pump has. I don't think a stock truck hose will work. The hydroboost unit is off an '04 yukon if that matters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Damn this project is taking me forever.

Anyway, just wanted to share info on fuel system since I ran into issues with finding bad or outdated info on the forum. Ended up with the wrong pump and had to change a connector on the hotwire harness.

List of parts:
-Racetronix pump FPA-021B
-Racetronix hot wire kit FPWK-017 if you still have the original MP150 connector to the fuel module... or...
-Racetronix hot wire kit FPWH-022 or FPWH-023 (probably length difference, call to make sure) if you have replaced your fuel module and upgraded the harness connector to the MP280.
-Racetronix fuel module bulkhead RCS-028. Only needed if you still have the old 150 style on the fuel module. New pumps usually come with the new MP280 bulkhead connector.

Using the racetronix fuel pump FPA-021B keeps the venturi system functional. No need to hack up your fuel module. This pump comes with the correct length hose and in tank harness for the S10 module. This only works in the original fuel module or similar style. By this, I mean it has to have the venturi hose as shown in this pic.

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I had changed my fuel module several years ago. It had the newer updated venturi style. The updated venturi style will not work with the racetronix pump. I went online and found one with the hose. $30 or so. I specifically bought TYC 150012-A. Just make sure it has the venturi hose. You only need the plastics so don't worry about it being a name brand pump.

Take the module apart. Careful when removing the venturi hose from the module. The barb is press fit and could pull out. If you're reusing the original venturi hose, just remove the end from the pump and leave the other end connected to the module. Wish I did it this way. The venturi hose is a big pain in the a$$ to get on, down in the bucket. My fat hand didn't fit too well but I got it on.

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When installing the feed hose, make sure you put the oetiker clamp on the hose before you hook the hose up. The hose is difficult to get on. Last thing you need is having to remove it. You'll need to heat up the feed hose to get it onto the bulkhead feed barb. Boiling it doesn't work. I used a heat gun. It gets close to melting before it slides on. A bit of oil or silicone spray will help it slide on easier. I used some side snips to set the oetiker clamp.

You'll have to de-pin the original in-tank harness to remove the sending unit wires and install them into the upgraded harness provided with the pump. When removing the pins, the locking tabs may flatten out. Make sure to pull them out. Careful not to break them or you'll have to replace the terminals.
 
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