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LS3 Cruisin'
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On the 8.8- the 9" torino ends are fine bearing wise, ensure you don't use the c-clips. Moser street axles are the ticket... While you're having the ends redone, have the center pumpkin welded all around at the tubes. The pumpkin is cast, make sure the welder knows how to do it (preheat and maintain heat/slow cool). For diff cover don't use the bolts supplied in aftermarket diff cover kits, they're Chinese garbage. Get some ARP bolts. The explorer 8.8 is actually a pretty sweet rear end from a strength/cost/durability perspective. A 9" only benefit is easy gear changes which for most doesn't matter (and a bit more strength of course but more than this build needs). The S60 is fantastic, but massively heavy... 8.8's work real good in these trucks for most LS swaps. I'd do an 8.8 again in a heartbeat.

Caltracs work great, y'know what else works great, the calvert split mono leaf springs and calvert adj. rear shocks- as a complete package they kick ass and you'll launch straight hard and true no wheel hop no BS. I was going to go rear C/O and 5 link setup, then I went all calvert and never looked back. Strongly recommend the split monos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
On the 8.8- the 9" torino ends are fine bearing wise, ensure you don't use the c-clips. Moser street axles are the ticket... While you're having the ends redone, have the center pumpkin welded all around at the tubes. The pumpkin is cast, make sure the welder knows how to do it (preheat and maintain heat/slow cool). For diff cover don't use the bolts supplied in aftermarket diff cover kits, they're Chinese garbage. Get some ARP bolts. The explorer 8.8 is actually a pretty sweet rear end from a strength/cost/durability perspective. A 9" only benefit is easy gear changes which for most doesn't matter (and a bit more strength of course but more than this build needs). The S60 is fantastic, but massively heavy... 8.8's work real good in these trucks for most LS swaps. I'd do an 8.8 again in a heartbeat.

Caltracs work great, y'know what else works great, the calvert split mono leaf springs and calvert adj. rear shocks- as a complete package they kick ass and you'll launch straight hard and true no wheel hop no BS. I was going to go rear C/O and 5 link setup, then I went all calvert and never looked back. Strongly recommend the split monos.
Moser isn't too far from me. I had talked with them in the past about working on my 8.8. Their quote was surprisingly reasonable.

How are the split monos for street duty? I suppose you would adjust the shocks for street tune.
 

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LS3 Cruisin'
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On the street im on the second click from softest on the shocks, and the split monos are excellent. The factory rate is around 150-160lbin the monos are 200. S10s are undersprung anyway so the increased rate is actually way better. Ive had a few guys drive my truck and theyve all liked the ride and slot car handling.

Brian at Moser give u the quote? For sure id have them do the work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Very nice parts build list, though I am a bit biased as I've got half the parts or more that you listed lol. I'd recommend plugging the valley oil tower, either turn the block upsidown and tap it & thread in plugs, or use the kit to pop rivet in plugs. Either way I can tell you that the o-ring seals on the underside of the valley cover don't do a perfect job of holding pressure, they piss all over the place and you bleed oil pressure there. Also, change the oil bypass bar-bell in the back of the block with the billet machined version.

I assume that's the LS9 head gasket? If not, that's best to use...

I'd recommend ARP bolts for the oil pan... most bolt kits are inferior, I learned this the hard way.

Ebay crank tool eh... Be careful, at the start that tool doesn't thread very deeply into the snout... I actually use an old crank bolt to start it and get it about 1/3 of the way on before I switch to that tool. Guys have stripped the threads right out of the crank snout using that tool...

I trust you'll go ATI damper, and I'd recommend pinning the crank with ATI's kit. Admittedly the torx plus screws ATI uses are retarded and lack justification other than they also sell the correct torx plus bit (which I have, and happens to fit the heads loosely anyway... garbage...)

No offense intended, but I hope you've lubricated the shit out of everything, the rockers and springs look dry. I use Amsoil engine assembly lube and/or white lithium grease. I hope you soaked the lifters in oil, and heavily greased the cam and lifter wheels. Be sure to pre-prime the engine, easiest way I found is using the oil galley plug at the front driveside of the block with an ebay drill pump. Prime until oil comes out the top of every lifter, then you're good. A 102mm intake on a 5.3 is a bit weird... Honestly a smaller intake would be just as good, and a smaller throttle body gives a better low RPM throttle response between off throttle and tip-in. I wouldn't use anything bigger than a 92mm. Also, don't cheap out on TB, the Nick Williams is the way to go. Don't cheap out on IAC/TPS either, AC Delco only not the ebay specials. A NW 92 + AC Delco TPS/IAC are way easier to dial in than aftermarket crap.

That's all that comes in mind atm, nice build, keep it up, need more porn pics.
I didn't see this til now...

Thanks for the feedback. I greatly appreciate it.

I did tap and plug the oil towers. I used set screws= super cheap vs using pipe plugs. I used the saccity oil restrictor as well.

The crank tool is from one of the LS forums sponsors. I'll be installing an ati balancer. I agree those damn torx+ bits are stupid but luckily a regular torx bit was able to remove them. I bought it slightly used so took it apart to check it out. May still send it in for a rebuild just to have that ease of mind. It would suck trying to remove it once the truck is together.

I used lucas oil assy. lube. Great stuff. Soaked the lifters in oil for a few days before install. Rocker cups used lithium grease. Cam was heavily lubed. Tip for anyone reading...if your rear cover is not on, make sure you have something in place to keep the cam from sliding out the back or at least til it hits the engine stand. Most stands hold the motor leaning back. Last thing you need is damage to the bearings or cam. I will be pre-lubing the motor through the oil galley plug on the front drivers side.

I got the 102 for a really good price. Figured it won't hurt anything. Will be running an ls2 or ls3 90mm TB. Need to figure out which one my tune needs.

Again, thanks for the advice. It's a good way for me and others to double check our work.
 

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On the street im on the second click from softest on the shocks, and the split monos are excellent. The factory rate is around 150-160lbin the monos are 200. S10s are undersprung anyway so the increased rate is actually way better. Ive had a few guys drive my truck and theyve all liked the ride and slot car handling.

Brian at Moser give u the quote? For sure id have them do the work!
Haven't heard from you in a couple months. How's everything?
 
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Old Fart
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I was going to say the same thing. ?
 

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Old Fart
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Hangin' in there heh. Been a rough summer for me. Not a huge fan of the new forum style so I tend not to come around to read as much as I used to.
At least it's easy to post pics now so maybe someone that said he would post pics of his build will finish, hint hint! ?
 
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Been there Done it
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Not a huge fan of the new forum style so I tend not to come around to read as much as I used to.
It's slowly improving and over time you get used to it. I missed your infinite knowledge of LS's. It seems everybody is
tying to swap one these days.
Bought an high miles L33 core awhile back. Think I'll sell the parts. Too expensive to bother rebuilding. Really want a LQ9.
 

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LS3 Cruisin'
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It's slowly improving and over time you get used to it. I missed your infinite knowledge of LS's. It seems everybody is
tying to swap one these days.
Bought an high miles L33 core awhile back. Think I'll sell the parts. Too expensive to bother rebuilding. Really want a LQ9.
Yeah the SBC swap is pretty dead, or relegated to the high schooler' first beatup truck kind of deal. I think it'll be awhile before the Gen V swap catches on. The electronics and high pressure injection just aren't worth it, an LS can do everything an LT does, just without quite the same fuel economy, but for hot rods who the hell cares about fuel economy...

I've been toying with the idea of a Gen V 4.3 build though... but the cost on custom CNC heads is prohibitive, since I'd want to convert it back to 24x and MPFI.
Oh and a custom milled stroker crank... E.g. the engine GM never made but should have... some day I will... pretty sure I could get the same 450-500hp out of a stroked 4.3 "LS" as I do my LS3, but gain tons of engine space, shave another 150lbs off the front, and have it quick revving to the moon... would be so damn cool. I'd badge it 4.3 even if the displacement was punched to 5.0 (about what it works out to). Ultimate S10 that never was...

Besides, ya'll still have @Harley his knowledge is pretty dang infinite too.
 

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LS3 Cruisin'
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At least it's easy to post pics now so maybe someone that said he would post pics of his build will finish, hint hint! ?
Hah, haven't done really anything to it in 4 months... Was at the point where I couldn't carry a laundry basket to the basement back in July... slowly improving, will finish up the build next year. Though my dad has continued to tinker with it, he's been playing with a heater core bypass module that we spliced in, with mixed results.
 

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Hello,

What intake you were using? I've got (stock) 799 heads on my L33, with a TBSS intake using an X-Link to tie the TBSS 4 bolt TB to the '05 PCM I've got. That intake barely doesn't clear my stock '82 hood. The TB hits it one one of the under-hood braces, but that was an easy fix.

I used the Sac City barbell also. Their front and rear main seal installation tools worked great too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hello,

What intake you were using? I've got (stock) 799 heads on my L33, with a TBSS intake using an X-Link to tie the TBSS 4 bolt TB to the '05 PCM I've got. That intake barely doesn't clear my stock '82 hood. The TB hits it one one of the under-hood braces, but that was an easy fix.

I used the Sac City barbell also. Their front and rear main seal installation tools worked great too.
I'll be using the fast 102. I shouldn't have clearance issues with the hood. If I do, a simple brace modification will fix it.

I got the seal install tools as well. I'll be using them again on my next build for sure.
 

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LS3 Cruisin'
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I didn't bother with seal align tools, doesn't really matter. I align the front and rear cover to the block skirt with an extremely good straight edge because that alignment matters way more than the crank seals. In the past I've even turned the lights off in the shop and used a penlight under the straight edge to make damn sure I've got it flush within a couple thou of an inch if that. Once I have it dead square and flush to the block skirt, with about 1/8" of gasket lip protrusion, I then adjust it left to right but for the most part the inherent resistance of the seals self-center. Getting the four block corners matters way the heck more on these LS engines than the seal being off by like 1/16th". That's just my experience, I've never had crank seal leaks but I've sure as hell had leaks at the 4 corners >.> A good helping of synthetic oil resistant RTV goes on the 4 corners as well... I also like just a little bit of RTV smeared around the two oil passage holes in the oil pan, its a lot of pressure for the nearby gasket lip to hold back. I also slightly over-torque all bolts by an extra lb or two… It is not fun dealing with an oil pan leak on an LS while its in an S10...
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Finally got some time and decent weather to pull the 4.3 and trans. Is there anything I need to keep off the trans before I sell everything off?
 

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Spent a couple days stripping the frame. What a pain in the ***. Scraped it then wire wheeled it. Went over with a wire brush and mineral spirits to get all the wax off. Finally roughed it up with 60 grit and wiped it down. Painted it with chassis saver yesterday.
339334
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
As far as the wire harness, is it best to install it before dropping the motor/trans or is it just as easy to do it afterwards? I'm just worried about pinching a wire somewhere while easing it in place.
 

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As far as the wire harness, is it best to install it before dropping the motor/trans or is it just as easy to do it afterwards? I'm just worried about pinching a wire somewhere while easing it in place.
I installed my harness after installing the engine.
 
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