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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Since it is sacrilege to paint a Mopar engine bay anything but body color, I’m going to have to right the wrongs of the past owner. At least they used a 2K paint. Going to get this done so I can run my all new brake lines and get the engine and transmission in. I “massaged” the firewall lip for the 727. From what I’ve read the firewall lip rubs the larger bell housing of the case. Most early Valiant swaps with 318/340/360 and a 727 I’ve seen were okay with just folding the lip. I believe the big block 727 is even larger and requires a bit of fab to the tunnel to fit. Only one way to find out. I’ll put all the V8 S10 swap experience to good use.

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Figure I’ll paint the k-member and torsion bars black. Next up, prep and spray underside with Raptor liner, run brake lines and fuel line, drop in motor and trans to figure out pinion angle, weld new perches to rear axles, then order a driveshaft.

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1994 GMC Jimmy SLE 4.3 CPI 4x4
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I would have never thought when I joined a forum dedicated to S10’s, which we all love, that one day the thread I’d be most excited about an update on would be about a Plymouth.. Good work on the engine bay, now you’re at least 15% back to stock color! Exciting! Had a chance to mock up the Viper seats yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
S10’s are how my Dad showed me how to wrench on cars and fabricate things, so no matter what I work on there will always be a connection to S10’s.

Viper seats lined up nicely and work out great spacial relation wise with the coffin console. They are low enough that I can make some mount adapters to use the stock seat holes in the floor pan and bolt the seats to the adapters retaining plenty of head room. I saw an early Dart set up this way.
 

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Ya know...
That's what makes me keep coming back to this forum.
Unfortunately, many old members have lost interest.
Sad
The good side - this is still a great place to find information and amazing projects (like this one by Bennsb)

AND... does it have to be S10?
Well - it is an S10 forum. Yez,
But it is still totally interesting to see any project that has relevance to any future make a project complete.
Props to Bennsb!!
Amazing Firechicken transformation!!
And now?
Bacarooda: (remember that?)
Back to the 21st century! (y)(y)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 · (Edited)
Oh yeah, the old Sox and Martin “Baccaruda”

I thought my Dad was mispronouncing it when he had the slot racer.

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My compressor had other plans and chucked a reed valve. (Third one it has cracked, I guess that’s the trade off of coastal living...)

Waiting on parts. Got shocks in, need a bushing to use the Mountaineer shock mount plates as the bolt is smaller. Put hood torque rods back on, ran the new brake lines and mounted the new split distribution block. Routing was easier than I thought, and I finally get to use the rear brake proportioning valve I’ve had in my S10’s glovebox for a decade...

Unfortunately I can’t run the Ram truck exhaust manifold on the driver side without going to a manual steering box. Found a driver side A-body 360 manifold that was off a California car. Same outlet size as the ‘96 Ram logs I have, and this isn’t a race motor so it still should be good for ~290 horsepower and ~390 ft/lb of torque. Plenty for a 2900 pound car.

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
Cleaned up the workspace. Driveway looked like Mars under the car from the floor pan removal. It rolled easy enough. If all goes well, there maybe an engine in the thing by this weekend.

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Discussion Starter · #194 · (Edited)
Are you going to run headers or manifolds?
Running manifolds. The truck passenger works but I need manual steering to run the driver’s side log. Had to pick up a 360 smogger to work until I can source a reasonably priced HI-PO 340 driver’s side.

727 in, need a different kickdown cable, the Ram truck’s hits the floorboard. Overall I’m happy with how it’s going, the V8 S10 swap problem solving skills have come in handy.

I got the motor level an perched where I want it. A 1” carb spacer and my filter will be just peaking through the hood. I am going to fabricate a sealed foam bottom plate to mate up to the bottom of the hood similar to my Firebird’s Ram Air pan for a functional cold air intake.

Rear end is about 3/4” off center. I can live with that. Might try to weld the new perches on tomorrow now that I have my transmission set to pull my pinion angle.

I backed out the torsion bars all the way when I got it, the front tires tucked like a stanced VW GTI... Not a good look for the Fish. Tightening the torsion bolts was way easier than the first go ‘round. It lifted the front back up and I’ve got another 1” or so to raise it. Going to flip the front spring pockets to bring the rear down, got some 70’s street rake going on. Looks like all the cars I drew as a kid in the early 80’s.

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Anti vibration weight on the tail shaft?
Yes sir. Some chuck it as weight reduction. I have a counter balance on the yoke of my S10 driveshaft behind the T56 and it is a smooth ride at 80 mph in sixth gear. I figure Chrysler has it there for a reason, and that 727 tail section is quite long. It’s perfectly centered and spaced in relation to the tunnel so I’m leaving it.

Rebuilt the passenger caliper, lines are plumbed. I replaced the busted original idler arm as well. Motor position looks spot on, I’m pretty happy. Hoping the rear spring bolts cooperate. I’m going to flip the front eye bolt cups to drop the rear an inch, then hopefully center the rear axle and weld the new perches on with my desired pinion angle. Someone was helpful enough to tell me to flip the cups BEFORE I set the rear, it throws off the pinion angle quite a bit. He has a sweet gunmetal gray ‘66 Fish. I think I’m going to go for the same stance.

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Stock perches were a bear to get off. Neither front shackle bolt nut would budge. Guess I’ll cut them off and replace. Managed to mock up the rear so at least I know what length driveshaft I’ll need.

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
How is your clearance from the pan to center link with the wheels turned?
It looks very close.
It is very close. The early 273 pans had a recessed area on the driver’s side to clear the center link. The early 273 pan won’t work on the 5.9 so I need to tap on the pan to gently create the clearance I need for sharp left turns.
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Discussion Starter · #200 · (Edited)
Looks like I’m going to luck out, a 46” Durango driveshaft is going to work. A trip to the junkyard and $30 is going to allow me to ditch my 2x4 scrap and decorative concrete edging wheel chocks.

*Well that was a bust. 48” U-joint center to U-joint center. That and I forgot this yard lifts every car with front loader forks and bends up every rear wheel driveshaft. Oh well. Plan B is an eBay Mustang driveshaft out of Texas.
 
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