1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap - S-10 Forum
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post #1 of 116 Old 04-21-2019, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

Pretty new to this forum but felt like there was some people who might need a sort of guide route if they're going for an ls swap. When I got the truck my intention always was to swap the engine. It had the 2.2L and was manual so hey. I'm already pretty in to the swap sorry for not having shared since the beginning. But to start I started off with Trans Dapt's 42161 kit. Cost me around 650 shipped through summit. The kit was pretty good and included short headers (wish were painted a little better), motor mounts, and oil pan. If you ask me I dont think it's expensive so i stuck with it. After i got the kit i test fitted everything on and looked like this.

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post #2 of 116 Old 04-21-2019, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Everything fit on nicely ( except motor mounts, pain to get them in ). But in the last picture I didn't have one of the headers installed. I really wanted to get the truck running asap but felt like I needed to take my time if i wanted it the way i did. So I pulled the engine out again and painted the block and the frame. Since the pan that came with the kit needed an oil filter relocation, I began to work underneath as well. Dont think anyone needs pics how the frame looked before paint with the new mounts but 🤷‍♂️
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post #3 of 116 Old 04-21-2019, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I then got some hardware for myself on Christmas ( coil brackets, spark plugs and wires and a clutch kit ). I then stalled on the truck for a while after I was in a huge dilemma with the clutch and tranny I wanted to use, and I got a 99 Camaro that I'm also gonna do a swap on ( gonna need some help ). But after about two months of ordering and testing clutches back to back, I just settled to use the stock setup of the silverado ( nv3500 and clutch kit ). I then installed the driver side header and left it there.
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post #4 of 116 Old 04-21-2019, 07:03 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

What pan did the kit come with? How was the clearance??

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My build thread... https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...ecs-ss-513887/
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post #5 of 116 Old 04-21-2019, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Ok now into more recent times. Lately I've been on the move to get this thing running. I got a guy who was telling me he could do all my electrical biss so I figured I should slap an ls6 intake I was planning on putting on later so I could have it already installed.
To install the low intake, I had to switch the water pump to allow space for the throttle body. I used an ls1 pump what had the bolt on pulley. My only problem is that it sticks out pretty far since I had to use ict billet spacers to accommodate my truck accessories.
So right now I'm working on the serpentine belt. I know some people on these swaps either notch their frame or buy an expensive high mount system for their AC. But as I read on this forum, I followed the steps on how to use a pre vortec 5.7/4.3 ac bracket on the s10. The results were perfect. It's a pretty easy job just need to fabricate your own small support. Picked the bracket off a 94 Silverado 4.3 and the Ac compressor off a later Silverado that used r134a. The ac lines sit right underneath the condenser so I'm gonna be fabricating a pretty small ac line. The ac looks like it lines up with all the other pulleys so that's a check off my list.
All I'm missing is the power steering and alternator. I tried looking around for any info if I could use a stock 5.3/4.8/6.0 bracket but from the looks of my bay and gearbox, i doubted it ( and I wasn't trying to head to the junkyard, pay a hundred bucks for the bracket, alternator, and compressor then come back and it not fit ). So I ordered an ict billet high mount bracket that used my truck alternator and a Corvette power steering pump. Spent about 200 for everything since I wanted to pick up a newer pulley that had holes ( 125 for bracket, 60 for pump and 20 for pulley ).
Aside from all the pulley jazz I've finished up the drivetrain underneath as well. The NV3500 used on the Silverados and s10s bolted on perfectly ( no notching or cutting was needed on the transmission housing ) . It actually came out a lot better than I expected since I was able to use the stock 2.2 t5 transmission crossmember and the shift stick came out right under the stock position. I wanted to get a stage 2 or at least performance clutch but I couldn't find any for the 6 spline. So I just got a brand new clutch kit for a 05 Silvi. I just needed to use the driveshaft found on the 4.3 s10s. So that's a budget transmission solution right there.
And that's about where I'm at. Just finished painting the alternator and crank pulley and waiting for the power to arrive so I could measure and finish the belt. Sorry I might be a little vague on details. Like i said I'm new here, but if you guys are wondering about some of the stuff I did, lmk. The next step is getting a fuel rail and gas lines then finding out what the **** im gonna do with the radiator and fans. THERE IS NO ROOM! But yeah if you guys can give me some recommendations that would be awesome. My future plans on this truck would be baggin it and painting so I'm on the lookout for anyone who does that sort of biss in Colorado. I will keep you guys updated just lmk your here👍
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post #6 of 116 Old 04-21-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Chevymec the oil pan was a Hamburger 1108. It just barely had enough clearance but looks well built. On the member it has like 1/2 clearance. The picture shows it keeps the engine from going back.It needs a relocation for the filter though.
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post #7 of 116 Old 04-21-2019, 09:35 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

Wondering why the use of rubber hose instead of AN line for fuel and oil?
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post #8 of 116 Old 04-22-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Wondering why the use of rubber hose instead of AN line for fuel and oil?
That's just what the kit came with. I will be using steel braided for the fuel though
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post #9 of 116 Old 04-22-2019, 01:43 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

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Wondering why the use of rubber hose instead of AN line for fuel and oil?
On barbed AN fittings with gear clamps... does the **** get any cheaper?

You're one stray piece of road debris away from having hot oil sprayed all over your exhaust/underside of your truck.

A piece of skid strapping, brick ties, hvac ductwork ****, w/e I can think of many things that I see on the road that will slice those lines like a hot knife through butter.
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post #10 of 116 Old 04-22-2019, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Wondering why the use of rubber hose instead of AN line for fuel and oil?
On barbed AN fittings with gear clamps... does the **** get any cheaper?

You're one stray piece of road debris away from having hot oil sprayed all over your exhaust/underside of your truck.

A piece of skid strapping, brick ties, hvac ductwork ****, w/e I can think of many things that I see on the road that will slice those lines like a hot knife through butter.
well I did use some Russell AN to hose barb fittings and fit real tight. But yeah should replace em anyway. Maybe I'll get them with the gas lines I'll get. Any guess how much feet I'll need for gas?
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post #11 of 116 Old 04-23-2019, 02:02 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

Keep in mind the only approved OEM, and suitable aftermarket line for fuel containing any amount of ethanol is PTFE. PTFE ends can only be terminated by compression or crimp fittings with appropriate PTFE style fittings.

Using stainless braided rubber hose is a great way to get that gas smell, and eventually gas pissing through the stainless braid. Its like one of the most common hot-rod building mistakes people make.

If you never use gas with ethanol, you can avoid doing that... I use 93 no ethanol, though still have PTFE end to end incase I want to run 91 with 10% ethanol. If you plan on running E85 or higher, make sure to use PTFE as rubber won't even last a month in that kind of use.
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post #12 of 116 Old 05-01-2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Decided to leave this topic here. Was going to keep updating but there's only like two people here.
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post #13 of 116 Old 05-02-2019, 02:39 AM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

More people are reading than you think. This isn't facebook or instagram, so there's not the hardcore urge to comment or like, but this site still gets tons of traffic from both members and guests.
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post #14 of 116 Old 05-02-2019, 06:04 AM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

really interested, I'm doing something similar,

what year is your engine out of? and was your s10 a four wheel drive?

I'm having trouble getting the heater box to clear the engine, did you have any problems with that?

any problems with coil clearance to the brake booster on the drivers side? did you use different coils or coil brackets?

I cut the radiator core up on my stock s10, and used a 2012 Chrysler 200M electric fan setup, and the stock 4.3 radiator.

with that there was enough clearance between the radiator, fans, and engine pulleys.
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post #15 of 116 Old 05-02-2019, 06:07 AM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

Not to mention those who did comment are some of the most knowledgeable folks on here (not including yours truly).
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post #16 of 116 Old 05-02-2019, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Ok your right I should be at least trying to keep you guys updated thanks for letting me know you guys are here.
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post #17 of 116 Old 05-02-2019, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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really interested, I'm doing something similar,

what year is your engine out of? and was your s10 a four wheel drive?

I'm having trouble getting the heater box to clear the engine, did you have any problems with that?

any problems with coil clearance to the brake booster on the drivers side? did you use different coils or coil brackets?

I cut the radiator core up on my stock s10, and used a 2012 Chrysler 200M electric fan setup, and the stock 4.3 radiator.

with that there was enough clearance between the radiator, fans, and engine pulleys.
Ok the 4.8 came out of a 2005 silvie. The s10 is a 2wd using the nv3500 from the 2000s s10s and silvs. As for heater box clearance, when i was putting in the engine, i did not realize i crashed the box. Dont know if you could see in the top left of the picture where it's broken. I believe Holley sells a box to solve this. As for coils, I used a square type coil bracket and barely liberated the coils. I recomend you install the coil bracket and coils before you put the engine in. I had to trim the booster a little on the bottom left to have space to tighten the coil. I used the REV ignition coils for the ls1 I believe. And I cant remember the name of the bracket, it's been over a year since I've bought it.
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post #18 of 116 Old 05-03-2019, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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But since the last post, I have gotten the power steering pump from the 97-03 Corvette and the ict high mount bracket. Painted my alternator and they are now installed. Yesterday I attempted to put the crank pulley on since I took it off to have space during the engine drop in, but now there is no space to be able to put it on. Might have to get a longer crank bolt that way I just have to tighten the sucker in instead of hitting the pulley in. Then I'll have the belt situated. I also got a billet fuel rail designed for the ls6. I was able to use my truck injectors by removing the plastic rings they have. As for the radiator and fans, i might try recessing the radiator in like 2000_S10 said.
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post #19 of 116 Old 05-03-2019, 12:52 AM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

Couple things on the crank pulley:

Heat it up. Doesn't take much with a torch around the ID or toss it in the oven at 200 for a few (careful the cook in the house doesn't catch you...). With a good shove it will pop right on if it's hot enough.

You can also make your own pulley seating tool with some All Thread of the same thread pattern as the crank bolt and a nut/washer to press the pulley on. I made one of those and it works great.

Lastly the crank bolt is torque to yield. Some people have no problems reusing the original bolt. Others have not. I bought an LS6 that did have the problem and learned quite a bit about how those parts work together on the LS platform. My recommendation is a new Crank bolt and follow the factory procedure as close as possible. Other people on the internet have had good luck slamming the old one back in with an impact.
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post #20 of 116 Old 05-03-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Couple things on the crank pulley:

Heat it up. Doesn't take much with a torch around the ID or toss it in the oven at 200 for a few (careful the cook in the house doesn't catch you...). With a good shove it will pop right on if it's hot enough.

You can also make your own pulley seating tool with some All Thread of the same thread pattern as the crank bolt and a nut/washer to press the pulley on. I made one of those and it works great.

Lastly the crank bolt is torque to yield. Some people have no problems reusing the original bolt. Others have not. I bought an LS6 that did have the problem and learned quite a bit about how those parts work together on the LS platform. My recommendation is a new Crank bolt and follow the factory procedure as close as possible. Other people on the internet have had good luck slamming the old one back in with an impact.
Hmm... haven't thought of heating it up. Might give it a try. I'm sad I dont give much time to the truck. I'm always working on weekdays and only work on the truck on weekends. I'll see if i could give it some more time to advance faster. Thanks for the advice though.
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post #21 of 116 Old 05-03-2019, 05:05 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

do you happen to have a part number for the holly heater box?

REV ignition coils? who are they made by?

keep up with the good work. hope you get it finished.
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post #22 of 116 Old 05-04-2019, 02:20 PM
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do you happen to have a part number for the holly heater box?

REV ignition coils? who are they made by?

keep up with the good work. hope you get it finished.
Do a search on google for holley s10 ls swap parts. Not sure about REV
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post #23 of 116 Old 05-04-2019, 03:33 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

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do you happen to have a part number for the holly heater box?
2nd gen is 71223028HKR

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My build thread... https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...ecs-ss-513887/
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post #24 of 116 Old 05-04-2019, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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do you happen to have a part number for the holly heater box?

REV ignition coils? who are they made by?

keep up with the good work. hope you get it finished.
Yeah I think it's the 71223028HKR for the Holley box. And the rev coils' part number was 12558948. Have yet to have experience with REV so we'll see how good they are.
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post #25 of 116 Old 05-04-2019, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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Today I worked on the truck a bit and was able to get the crank in by heating it up a lil bit like Harley said. Now I dont think anyone has done the pulley setup I'm doing so I had to think for myself. The problem was that the tensioner from the old AC bracket was not going to tension enough for the belt. I was thinking maybe a larger pulley on the tensioner but I think moving the whole AC bracket to the right some more will do the trick. It might be confusing what I'm trying to explain hopefully the drawing I made will help. I think I can just cut the homemade bracket I made a little shorter. And that should so the trick. Might do that tomorrow. For now I'm just stressing about the fan. I have like 4 inches from the condenser to the water pump. Was thinking if I run two separate fans and push them away from the water pulley it might work. Right now does anyone have recommendations for a sort of thin good radiator? I dont if I can do what 2000_S1O said about recessing a 4.3 radiator into the core support since I did have the 2.2. But I will give you some pictures and drawings about what I think.
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post #26 of 116 Old 05-05-2019, 02:35 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

I used the 4.3 radiator out of the s10,

I did have to trim around the core support, at the top, where I could open and close the radiator cap.

as for the rest of the core support, I kept cutting brackets off until I could fit the radiator up against, where the a/c condenser used to be.

I wasn't going to use the A/c and used the extra space to fit the radiator into.
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post #27 of 116 Old 05-05-2019, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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I used the 4.3 radiator out of the s10,

I did have to trim around the core support, at the top, where I could open and close the radiator cap.

as for the rest of the core support, I kept cutting brackets off until I could fit the radiator up against, where the a/c condenser used to be.

I wasn't going to use the A/c and used the extra space to fit the radiator into.
Yeah its gonna be harder for me since I am going to need the condenser. Maybe of there was a special radiator/condenser/fan combo designed for these swaps.
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post #28 of 116 Old 05-05-2019, 04:40 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

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Yeah its gonna be harder for me since I am going to need the condenser. Maybe of there was a special radiator/condenser/fan combo designed for these swaps.
CPW has what you need.

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post #29 of 116 Old 05-05-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah its gonna be harder for me since I am going to need the condenser. Maybe of there was a special radiator/condenser/fan combo designed for these swaps.
CPW has what you need.
Do you have the part number?
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post #30 of 116 Old 05-05-2019, 04:56 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

at one time Current performance offered radiators, I don't seem them on their website now.

they do offer a aftermarket a/c condenser which mounts, in front of the radiator core it looks like. part number S10_CND

https://www.currentperformance.com/s...-c-bracket-kit
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post #31 of 116 Old 05-10-2019, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry haven't updated in a while. Got to work a bit on the truck today and cut the bracket. I have sufficient tension now on the belt so I just have to try and find which I'm going to need. Used a rope to wrap around the pulleys to measure the length I might be needing and came out to 50 inches folded. If I could get some help that would be great. All I'm needing now is the radiator and fans. I think I might go with the 4.3 radiator and intrepid fan pathway see how it goes. I also just ordered a power steering reservoir so I'll install that as soon as it comes in. Got it for a buck😂
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post #32 of 116 Old 05-11-2019, 08:03 AM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

I've been looking at this swap, its a blazer keep in mind,

but you can see he kept the clutch fan, and he used the stock air intake off the s10 into the engine.

I'm going to do the same,

just to keep the stock battery location.

https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/...blazer-761833/
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I've been looking at this swap, its a blazer keep in mind,

but you can see he kept the clutch fan, and he used the stock air intake off the s10 into the engine.

I'm going to do the same,

just to keep the stock battery location.

https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/...blazer-761833/
I didn't think about using the mechanical fan. But I dont think I can since I'll be using the ls1 water pump. I'm guessing your using the truck water pump? I cant bolt anything on to mine.
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post #34 of 116 Old 05-11-2019, 05:37 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

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Originally Posted by Ninetynineesten View Post
I didn't think about using the mechanical fan. But I dont think I can since I'll be using the ls1 water pump. I'm guessing your using the truck water pump? I cant bolt anything on to mine.

thats right.

the 4.8 I have had a Y pipe coming out of the water pump, running to the overflow and heater hose, I replaced the "y" fitting with a "t" fitting, and ran the stock s10 coolant overflow tank, because I could mount the computer on top of the overflow like stock.

I have my wiring harness setup for a e-fan, but might go back to the mechanical fan, haven't decided yet.

right now I'm in the middle of running my vacuum lines back for my 4wd.
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post #35 of 116 Old 05-12-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000_S1O View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninetynineesten View Post
I didn't think about using the mechanical fan. But I dont think I can since I'll be using the ls1 water pump. I'm guessing your using the truck water pump? I cant bolt anything on to mine.

thats right.

the 4.8 I have had a Y pipe coming out of the water pump, running to the overflow and heater hose, I replaced the "y" fitting with a "t" fitting, and ran the stock s10 coolant overflow tank, because I could mount the computer on top of the overflow like stock.

I have my wiring harness setup for a e-fan, but might go back to the mechanical fan, haven't decided yet.

right now I'm in the middle of running my vacuum lines back for my 4wd.
Yeah. I might try running something like this. I might just use the 4.3 radiator and a set of separate fans and make some brackets. Maybe these https://www.protuninglab.com/12inhip...hoC6hUQAvD_BwE
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post #36 of 116 Old 05-13-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Got some time to work on the truck yesterday. Was waiting for the belt to arrive so I decided to paint some stuff. I painted the intake, some brackets, and some other small things. Once the belt came, I tried it on and short story, i got a problem. Right underneath the ac, you can choose to put another idler pulley there. The thing is that the belt hits on the thermostat housing. It isn't too much it just needs like two cm away from it. I put the idler pulley from the old ac bracket I used, but didn't really pull the belt back. I then took the pulley from a same tensioner and pulled the belt a little farther back but still hits the housing. I am thinking maybe a bigger pulley will pull it more back unless there was a special housing. This problem doesnt happen with the guys who do this pre vortec ac bracket because they use the truck water pump. But since I am using an ls1 water pump, I had to put spacers on the pump to accommodate the truck pulleys which stuck it out. But for anyone wondering what belt I used was a NAPA 060997 I believe. While I was painting I took some pictures of the throttle bracket I made so you guys wont have to buy that $50 bracket i saw the other time and a special throttle cable that's another $50. I think I bent the stock bracket and cut the back part off and used spacers to push the cable onto the throttle body. Then drilled two holes on the side. For anyone that's interested I can provide a more detailed explanation of what I did.
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post #37 of 116 Old 05-22-2019, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Is this post dead or what? Just kidding. I got great news on the swap. I was finally able to finish the serpintine belt. In my last post I talked about using a slightly larger idler pulley to try and liberate the thermostat housing and get more tension. I mentioned maybe going for a larger pulley. That is exactly what I did. I haven't posted in like a week now because I've been waiting for it to arrive so I didn't have anything to post about. I talked about swapping the original idler pulley for the pulley found on the tensioner because it was a little bigger. The tensioner pulley measured about 88.9 mm (3.5 inches) in outside diameter. I found a larger pulley that measured 118 mm (4.646 inches). This pulley was from a 2014 Lexus ls460. Got it for 20 bucks. When it came, I noticed a huge difference, bolt size. The original bolt that would grab on to the bracket was too fat and short to make it to through the Lexus pulley. So I made a bolt. I basically took a bolt that fit snug in the Lexus pulley and then the bolt that grabbed on to the bracket. I cut them and welded them together. I can provide a more detailed explanation if anyone wants to know. Everything tightened nicely and the thermostat housing is now free and I got a lot more tension. I also got the 4.3 radiator from a friend. I'll just see when I have time to hit the junkyard to pick up some intrepid fans. I think I might go that way since I've heard very positive things about them and these swaps. Until then.
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post #38 of 116 Old 05-22-2019, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Also am I the first to have an ls6 intake swapped s10? I just realized I literally went through all of that because of the intake.
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post #39 of 116 Old 05-23-2019, 04:07 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

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Originally Posted by Ninetynineesten View Post
Also am I the first to have an ls6 intake swapped s10? I just realized I literally went through all of that because of the intake.
No, you just mounted your tensioner in a weird fashion. I use identical belt routing except I tension from the bottom, not from the top.

This bracket and tensioner would have solved your problem without the larger tensioner pulley/custom bolt.

https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...y/parts/20-134



They've got an R4 version as well. Same thing.

That being said, your solution should work fine, except that bolt thing. The pulleys are under a lot of vibrational stress and constant pressure being applied. As long as you trust your welding skills otherwise you'll have a belt & a pulley bouncing down the road in no time.
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post #40 of 116 Old 05-23-2019, 04:13 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

As for rad, the 4.3 HD works well. Cutting up the core support to further recess it will help you on the fans front. CPW used to make a hood relocation bracket to gain more condenser forward clearance, though if you search around the forums, its probably easy enough for you to make yourself.
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post #41 of 116 Old 05-23-2019, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Also am I the first to have an ls6 intake swapped s10? I just realized I literally went through all of that because of the intake.
No, you just mounted your tensioner in a weird fashion. I use identical belt routing except I tension from the bottom, not from the top.

This bracket and tensioner would have solved your problem without the larger tensioner pulley/custom bolt.

https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...y/parts/20-134



They've got an R4 version as well. Same thing.

That being said, your solution should work fine, except that bolt thing. The pulleys are under a lot of vibrational stress and constant pressure being applied. As long as you trust your welding skills otherwise you'll have a belt & a pulley bouncing down the road in no time.
That's true I just couldn't find anyone or any comments saying if those brackets would fit. With this bracket I used I am able to keep the stock battery location. Some brackets like these need you to buy a different ac compressor like sanden. Ict also offered two solutions but one you had to buy the ac bracket and alternator bracket (350 for both) and another but you had to buy a sanden compressor (250 plus compressor). I still had to buy the alternator side for 150 but I had the pre vortec ac and bracket saving me a couple bucks. I will make sure my weld is strong though.
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post #42 of 116 Old 05-23-2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Just finished welding the bolt a bit more. I feel like it should hold up well. The two bolts I used were strong and I think my weld is too.
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post #43 of 116 Old 05-24-2019, 01:10 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

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Originally Posted by Ninetynineesten View Post
That's true I just couldn't find anyone or any comments saying if those brackets would fit. With this bracket I used I am able to keep the stock battery location. Some brackets like these need you to buy a different ac compressor like sanden. Ict also offered two solutions but one you had to buy the ac bracket and alternator bracket (350 for both) and another but you had to buy a sanden compressor (250 plus compressor). I still had to buy the alternator side for 150 but I had the pre vortec ac and bracket saving me a couple bucks. I will make sure my weld is strong though.
I've said it lots of times in many build threads on this forum that Holley's brackets are excellent and work well. They do indeed fit, and I use them, with the stock battery, in the stock battery location, with no battery tray modifications. The only pattern that aftermarket companies don't make A/C brackets for is direct-mount, which the S10 used. That said, a trip to the junkyard or off-brand A/C units would also work, as do older style compressors. Anyway its neither here nor there, you save a few bucks, you have to solve challenges yourself, and that's fine, just doesn't need to be misrepresented as the only way to do something. Its just the way you did it. Frankly I commend you on what looks like a pretty decent job you did there, and certainly much better than other solutions I've seen such as using a single bolt to hold the A/C compressor down...
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post #44 of 116 Old 05-24-2019, 01:18 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

Looks like you're using M10x1.5 to M11 or M12x1.5. Anyway I'd torque to the spec of the thinnest part, which if it is M10 would be 36ftlbs. If you're using M8 it'd be 18 ftlbs.
If its larger like M12 to M14 which I don't think since LS accessory drives don't use M12... I'd still only torque to 36ftlbs otherwise you'll risk stripping the threads out of the bracket and for general clamping of parts together 36ftlbs is enough for shear load transfer which is what a pulley bolt needs. 18ftlbs would be a bit weak for proper face to face shear transfer.
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post #45 of 116 Old 05-24-2019, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like you're using M10x1.5 to M11 or M12x1.5. Anyway I'd torque to the spec of the thinnest part, which if it is M10 would be 36ftlbs. If you're using M8 it'd be 18 ftlbs.
If its larger like M12 to M14 which I don't think since LS accessory drives don't use M12... I'd still only torque to 36ftlbs otherwise you'll risk stripping the threads out of the bracket and for general clamping of parts together 36ftlbs is enough for shear load transfer which is what a pulley bolt needs. 18ftlbs would be a bit weak for proper face to face shear transfer.
Thanks man I'll definitely find out what bolts I'm using and torque it correctly. Maybe down the road I'll switch to a different ac bracket. For now I only had to spend 20 bucks to relocate the ac.
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post #46 of 116 Old 05-25-2019, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Today I got some time to hit the junkyard and pickup some intrepid fans. I came back worrying that they looked too thick. I was right. At the time of putting them in, they dont look promising. I know I have to cut the side ears off, but i wanted to see if the water pump was free, for if it wasn't, I could still return the fans. These are some pictures of how they fit. Can I get any instructions or tips about maybe recessing the core support? And I dont want to remove the support either, that's a lot of work.
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post #47 of 116 Old 05-25-2019, 04:23 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

Your most likely going to have to recess the radiator into the core support. Resit the urge/temptation to use pusher fans,

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post #48 of 116 Old 05-25-2019, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Your most likely going to have to recess the radiator into the core support. Resit the urge/temptation to use pusher fans,
Yeah does anyone have a detailed description of the process?
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post #49 of 116 Old 05-25-2019, 05:09 PM
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Re: 1999 s10 lr4 4.8l swap

Have you tried a search?? If you can't find one, pull the core support, trim the pegs, get some rubber cradles that fit the tank, lay it on the support, trace with a silver sharpie, get the cutting wheel after it.

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post #50 of 116 Old 05-25-2019, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Have you tried a search?? If you can't find one, pull the core support, trim the pegs, get some rubber cradles that fit the tank, lay it on the support, trace with a silver sharpie, get the cutting wheel after it.
Well I do see some people explaining it a bit, but I see they all dont use an ac condenser. Can I recess with one?
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