Upper & lower joints on 2wd - S-10 Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 05:59 AM Thread Starter
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Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Hey all, so when replacing the upper & lower ball joints on the 2wd models 03 and around there, can you do the uppers and lowers without removing the hub assembly or brakes? Thanks.

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post #2 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 12:03 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

you can separate and hang it there but to be honest dont know why,its just in the way.
Pull the caliper off and hang with a wire so the hose doesnt have any strain on it and get everything out of the way.
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post #3 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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What about the rotor and hub in the way? Does the rotor/ pad mount bracket have to be taken off to get the rotorz off on these trucks?
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post #4 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 02:37 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Like dime-dozen said, you take the caliper off, then the rotor/hub, and dust shield if you want.


Personally, if I was going to do uppers and lowers, I'd take the entire spindle out and clean everything up.
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post #5 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 02:37 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Quote:
pad mount bracket
That's called the caliper. Helps to compress the pads a bit first with a big c-clamp. 2 bolts and it's out of the way. The rotor will then fall on your toes or come off fairly easily is there is any visible rust. I mark a stud and it's hole with a sharpie so it goes back on in the same place. Shouldn't matter, but rust (again) could cause some wobble.
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post #6 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 04:41 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

It's a pick up. The rotors are not the slip on type and there is no hub bearing. It looks like....



I usually remove the caliper and then the spindle with everything on it. If the bearings need to be inspected and serviced I tear it all down. If you're not doing tie rod ends you could leave the outter attached to the spindle. To remove the spindle I loosen the upper and lower balljoint castle nuts a few threads and then give the spindle a good wack with a man sized hammer where the balljoint studs pass through the spindle. That usually breaks them free.


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post #7 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guyz, actually did everything without taking any brake anything or any spindle or hub off and replaced the inner and outer tie rods, the only problem I had was pressing in the new ball joint straight, kept wanting to go in crooked so I had to reposition and do it from different angles on the bottom of the ball joint, is there a trick to getting it to go in straight I'm using oreillys rental ball press it only has three cups sizes? Also the mounting studs for the upper ball joint always strip out so easily and they're not even tight enough it seems, the stop washers go on the nut end right? in the process of adjusting press I smashed and where my grease fitting nipple goes so now it's too smashed to install the grease fitting I'm going out to try to tap and die it out.
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post #8 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 09:30 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

If you're talking about the upper balljoint mounting bolts they only get torqued to 17-20ftlbs. which isn't much. Those clamp style presses can be a pain. I haven't really found a trick to getting the joint to stay square, I just kept trying until I got it to go in straight.


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post #9 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 09:49 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Once you do get it started, a 4' cheater bar is a big help.

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post #10 of 27 Old 03-10-2019, 09:50 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

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Originally Posted by Mostizzle View Post
If you're talking about the upper balljoint mounting bolts they only get torqued to 17-20ftlbs. which isn't much. Those clamp style presses can be a pain. I haven't really found a trick to getting the joint to stay square, I just kept trying until I got it to go in straight.



in my press area I have a 5 gal bucket of various pieces of pipe and pipe couplings to install BJ with.
I dont have any problem tapping on the pipe all the way around until its started then use a C clamp
to finish it off.
But Im usually doing this while they are off,figure if the ball joints are worn the bushings are also.
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post #11 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Yep I knew they we're to goto 17 lbs thanks, always just seems too loose, i just tightened them with a drill till they we're tight then tried to torque them I just wasn't hearing click and it was set to 17 then bam! stripped! Did the same thing when I was doing a dakota too. I'm getting some new studs in the morning probably just some galvanized ones that are same diameter fine threaded at h.d. Yep I definitely could'a used that 4' extension pipe today on the end of the breaker bar to press it in, I picked up one those too, a 4' piece of aluminum wiring conduit from h.d. for 5$ Homedepot has good deals on dielectric grease too the big cylinder CRC for 7$ that has the pump and adjustable tip. Yeah that oem tools ball joint press isn't the best I think from Oreillys. I had to do a two part removal to get it to work, one to push the stud of joint through, then the second to push the fitting through. The socket sizes I needed for removal & install we're 24,22,18,17 & 11's. Angle grinder with cut off wheel for rivet removing was the easiest & fastest. Then just punched em through with a nail set. I would try that method with the c clamp but I just don't have the pipe.
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post #12 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 02:32 AM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Even though there's not a lot of torque, I'd get Grade 8 bolts. Not something I'd want popping loose at speed.

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post #13 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Grade 8, Zinc? aren't those going to rust away over time, there not galvanized.
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post #14 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Who sells the right replacement studs & nuts? I'm not seeing anything come up on napa, oreillys or summit.
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post #15 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 09:59 AM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

They're just nuts and bolts....Ace Hardware will have them.

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post #16 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. Thanks Rhot.
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post #17 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 02:30 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Take one of the old ones with you to the harware store and tell them you want the same thing but in grade 8.


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post #18 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 03:31 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

metric most likely marked 10.9
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post #19 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks guys, whats the torque spec for the upper and lower ball joint Castle nuts? I saw an old post for a 4 x 4 that said 61 for the upper and 79 for the lower, this is a 2wd though, seems way too tight, it was way more stiff trying to turn the steering knuckle with the tie rod detached then before, the steerings stiff now. And if I have to loosen it, take the castle nut all the way off then retigthen right?
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post #20 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 11:04 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

You've got new balljoints...they're going to be a bit stiff. Once you get the tie rods hooked up and you turn the steering wheel, all will be right with the world.....just don't forget to lube them.

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post #21 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 11:33 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

The torque numbers you posted are also correct for 2wd's. I've never used a torque wrench on them myself. I just get them as tight as I can with a long wrench and then put the cotter pins in.


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post #22 of 27 Old 03-11-2019, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Thanks guys, yeah I just tightened them too to about where they we're when they came off and put the pins in too, once I got the torque wrench and put it on the lower set to 79 I never got it to click the torque wrench before it made it so tight you couldn't move the knuckle with the rod off so I had to loosen it otherwise I don't even think my power steering pump was going to be able to handle turning the wheels from side to side. It still seems too tight but if you guys say its normal. Is it really critical to have the bottom ball joint filled with grease right away? They both got smashed by the press so the fitting wont go on until I get a tap & die on it. Sounds like the grease fittings are 1/4" with 28 thread does that seem right? Other wise If I can't get it tap & die'd to put the grease fitting I'd have to somehow inject grease into the boot with a syringe or something lol.
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post #23 of 27 Old 03-12-2019, 12:34 AM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Squirting grease into the boot doesn't lube the ball and socket. IK'd do it before you drive it.
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post #24 of 27 Old 03-12-2019, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Fixed, simpler then I thought, just took a drill bit with a cordless & drilled slightly smaller then the grease fitting & then just used the cordless screw gun to screw it until it threaded itself in. Greased up all ready to go. Rides alot better should'a used Moog for everything though. Yeah I think you're right it's just tighter steering because all joints & rods are new. Thanks again for the help, Mo, Rhot, Dime, Oldeer, Man. Appreciate it.
I guess you can also add a grease fitting to tie rods that come without one but just drilling and installing a grease nipple.
Might do that myself later on my inners, if I can do it on the sides, they came without grease nipples.

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post #25 of 27 Old 03-12-2019, 07:59 AM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

all of these components are on a tapered shaft.
Tightening the nut down wont make it too hard to turn
once the taper is seated it cant go any further,other than the minuscule amount for bolt stretch.
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post #26 of 27 Old 03-14-2019, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

Coo, thanks.
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post #27 of 27 Old 03-15-2019, 07:34 PM
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Re: Upper & lower joints on 2wd

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I guess you can also add a grease fitting to tie rods that come without one but just drilling and installing a grease nipple.
Might do that myself later on my inners, if I can do it on the sides, they came without grease nipples.
That is not a good idea. Read the comments on Youtube to see why. You can usually buy Moog joints that already come with zerks.

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