" ... a lot of what you said was misinformation resulting from theoretical education (lots of books and limited real world experience).
I think maybe that's pushing things a bit. I can't yet be certain.
I did the Intrigue last week, and as far as you say about "holes not or maybe not lining up on struts to knuckle," that's just not the case there. Nor with the Crysler Sebring. No hole where the strut meets the knuckle (unless oblate from the factory) I've seen of the few I've fixed ever came close to anything but "real snug." Doesn't mean it COULDN'T happen, of course, just means the Crysler and GM I did fit glove tight or tighter. Tighter than a nun's tummy. Of course the SPRINGS might be different on my Moogs than AC/Delco...there's little (if any) doubt the camber IS affected - in an inconsequential way - 'less there's indication otherwise which there wasn't. Call me "Mr. Lucky" Lol!
For clarity or conviennce I counted threads, which wasn't really much ado, beings the "thread count" isn't the only way to assure retro-fit accuracy/closeness, and FOREWENT any alignment WHATSOEVER. Then, purely by happenstance I spse, THE CARS (OUR CARS, MY CAR) DRIVES AND TRACKS LIKE A DREAM.
That's one instance. I did the Crysler year-before-last, loaded LCA/struts, and while g/f drove it WAY more than I, she reported the car handled better than when she bought it - and 6months/7-8,000 miles the front tires showed little or no significant wear. Maybe I got lucky, pure luck, 2-times-in-a-row?
Often is suggested (RWD) 3.5 caster LEFT and 3.0 right or vice-versa (the minutae isn't ... microscopic?) Surely there's more explanation than mere tire rotation? You're suggesting a front positive 0.1 versus a 0.0 L compared to a 0.0 or say 0.1R spec is going to result in the abberant wear in the photo? Huh?
100,000 mile tires. That reads one-hundred-thousand. Many if not most of these DIY alignments are 10+ year-old cars to start. And so for <$100 I can go buy a 100,000mile tire?? In which zipcode?
A 50,000 mile tire, in reality, actual, true miles, maybe. Or else, tires have REALLY changed since I bought a pair Goodyear 60,000 about 5 years ago ...
Some sort of statistical, or even individual instance, might help bear things out.
A car tire in midwest winter, operates at how many degreesF? and in summer? and a 0.01 (on a car spec'd at 0.1 total front) decrepancy will change toe (and/or camber) HOW MUCH?
The toe and/or caster/camber will DOUBTLESS be affected by ambient tempF. And that effect is LESS than a 0.01 descrepancy from 0.0? These could be measurable, meaning the experiment could be performed but is meaningless unless some stats/specs/ and/or actual experimental (trial and error) data were purported; nonetheless you seem to be purporting that "tire alignment plain and simple" (and perhaps rotation and regularly monitered PSI) is going to yeild umpteen (100,000) jillion miles, WHEREAS some (relatively minute) discrepancy in toe is going to "burn through tires." Is that so?
Just because a vehicle tracks straight or drives normal doesn't mean the toe is within acceptable specs. I've driven thousands that drove just fine, yet needed adjustment on the front and rear toe. Some vehicles with struts have and elongated upper or lower (sometimes both) holes to allow for camber adjustment, some are simply a sleeve with a retainer bolt, and others are fixed hole sizes and locations and require a cam bolt kit to change camber.
Look up the Michelin Defender. It comes with a 90,000 mile warranty and is readily available at most major tire retailers and averages around $140 each.
Typically, people don't drive from one side of the country to the other for an alignment, so weather and ambient temperature aren't really something to be taken into account. Even so, that is one reason I recommend that people have their alignment at least check every 6 months. If you have a warranty plan with a shop, then this is most of the time little to no charge.
I never said that proper alignment and tire pressure was all you had to have to get the max out of your tires. Rotation and balancing is also all part of basic tire maintenance. While a discrepancy of 0.1° one way or the other wont cause that drastic of a wear pattern (I used that as an exaggerated example) it will cause premature wear, feathering, inner or outer edge wear, and other issues.
Originally Posted by mojarraman
Actually, now I've read yer junk a little closer, you do seem pushy. I was dining politely w/ g/f quickly reviewing things and she remarked, "did something spoil you're appetite?" and about all I could say was "grease monkey".
Thinkin' I'm singning out for a spell and enjoying a movie or game of 9-ball or sumpin!
Anyhow, to J.Q.,
All My Best
I wasn't being pushy. I was trying to correct some misinformation you had as well as answer your questions. If you took it that way, then that's not really my concern. If anyone has come off as rude here, it's you just now. The thread was created to be a guide for basic alignment aspects and to show people what they can look for to same themselves a little money instead of being ripped off by shops that sell parts just to get money. Yes, I am a grease monkey and I do damn well for myself doing it too. I don't mind it one bit.