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Front end rebuild

2K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  Mostizzle 
#1 ·
So after sorting out my fuel issue. I will move to my next project.
Rebuilding the front suspension. I did shocks and the steering stuff not too long ago. I noticed a couple weeks ago that the upper control arm bushings looked bad to me.
So my plan is to replace the bushings and the ball joints. Energy suspension and moog ball joints.

Before anybody questions my reasoning. I replaced the springs and control arms on my sierra. The moog replacements didn't fit all that great which is why I chose this route. I had to hammer out the attachement points on the frame. I read online and apparently that was common so to avoid this I chose this route.
If the energy suspension make too much noise I will remove them later

When I did the sierra I used a 3 ton floor jack I also had to use my external spring compressors. I was a little nervous. It went ok.

I am looking at getting this compressor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028QGTH...colid=T5RGANUIZL0J&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I had energy suspension on my last car. I liked it. They did squeak some. But it was mainly from the sway bar bushings.

For the ball joints. I have a small 8 ton press, a ball joint press and access to a 20 ton press. So I should be fine there.

The springs concern me. I may rent the tool. Then once I find it works then buy it.

I have read the stickies and there seems to be two ways to do them. But most people seem to have problems with them.
 
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#2 ·
As long as you use a coil spring compressor that goes inside the coil spring, you should be ok. I would only buy a coil spring compressor, if you are planning to do alot of front end work.
 
#5 ·
I purshcased a spring compresor.

I started this project this weeked. I got rained out. I got the uppper off and replaced. The bushings were gone. The rear only had half the rubber in it. The lower looks OK. But I think I need to go ahead and replace them while I'm here.

I'm doing rotors bearings and pads while I'm here. My question is concerning the tapered bearings. I had a noise when I would run over manhole covers. Came from the passenger side So that is where I started. The bushings were toast.
But the wheel bearings seemed extremely loose. I could move the caliper a lot. At least a lot more than I think I should. Should the bearings be that loose. I would think that the castle nut could have been turned at least 3 more spots. 1/4 to 1/2 turn

steve
 
#6 ·
caliper floats- rotor is held steady by your rim- your hub should have no end play or wobble- tightnen crown by hand till you have slught drag then back off 1/16 to 1/4 turn
 
#8 ·
Replacing Stabilizer links & and sway bar bushings made a big difference in my truck, rides way better big difference, it raised up my front end too, going over speed bumps I don't get that big drop and squeak anymore, definitely rides more like a new truck, seems like almost or more of difference then new ball joints and tie rods, except for the skip travel you get with bad rods and joints, Way easy install too and like 20$ in materials. New shocks of course was the first thing.
 
#9 ·
Replacing those parts is usually given when rebuilding the front end. Not as detrimental as balljoints and steering components though IMO. I don't understand how replacing end links and sway bar bushings "raised the front end up" as those parts have no affect on ride height, or ride really for that matter. Handling/cornering yes, ride no.

You sure you didn't put the sway bar back on upside down? That'll make for increased ride height and a stiff ride for sure.
 
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