Whatís up s10 people
So I know thereís a lot of different post and articles on this but I wanted to pick the brains of the people I take vehicle advice from the most. I was wondering what kind of oil and filter you use? Most of all, why? I personally use Valvoline conventional 5w-30 with a Wix filter. Iím in Iowa where it gets hot so Iím gonna step up to 10w-30. Also, I think Iím gonna step up to a Fram Ultra oil filter. I was doing some research and saw they can filter around 20 microns. The only thing that bothers me is that itís for a synthetic oil so Iím not sure if it will restrict oil flow with a heavier oil.
I'll discuss filters here for the 4.3L Vortec V6 engine, since I see more of those.
Wix filters currently offer filtration with beta ratios of 2/20=6/20 for the 51036 and 51040 filters. That means that those filters will block 50% (1/2 pass through) of the 6 micron particles and 95% (1/20 pass through) of the 20 micron particles. Wix gives those filters a "nominal micron rating" of 21 microns. I doubt FRAM publishes a beta ratio specification like that. Those Wix filters also can flow up to 7 to 9 gpm, which is more than the stock oil pump on the 4.3L Vortec V6 can pump.
AC-Delco (and "Genuine GM parts") filters for that application offer filtration that is as good or possibly slightly better than the Wix filters, but the AC Delco PF52E and PF47E will only flow 3gpm. With the Vortec 4.3L V6, the standard oil pump will pump up to about 6gpm at 6,000 RPMs (with a 6,500 RPM red line for the engine). With an AC-Delco filter, you'll be pushing the bypass valve open over 3,500 RPMs or so. That's not really a good thing. Never use an AC-Delco filter on your engine if you've plugged the bypass valve, and I really don't recommend those filters if you're going to spin the thing up near the redline (drag racing, autocrossing, or "track day" use especially). The same flow restrictions apply to the stock AC Delco filters for LS1 engines and for the Vortec V8 engines from the late 1990's. The AC Delco filters won't flow as much oil as the oil pump can pump, and the bypass valve will open, usually under 4,000 RPMs.
I use Wix gold filters just about exclusively now, or Napa Gold (or sometimes CarQuest Blue). The two "house brand" filters are built to the same specs as the Wix gold filters.
For oil, if it's an older engine with roller cam and roller lifters, and it's been run on conventional oil, I generally run conventional oil in it. I prefer Valvoline, but I'll run Napa or O'Reilly house brands (also produced by Ashland Oil, the company that produces Valvoline oils, but with slightly different additives packages for the house brands).
For a fresh rebuild or a newer engine with no worries about washing out gunk from the seals and exposing existing leaks, I run Pennzoil Pure Platinum Full Synthetic. I'll run that oil to 15,000 miles or 12 months, with oil analysis done the first time I do that, just to be sure I'm not using it up before that. However, I always change the oil filter at 3,000 to 4,000 miles. So I'll get 2 or 3 filter only changes in between oil changes. I do drive in dusty environments, and I don't trust filters to have enough dirt holding capacity to last or 15,000 miles if I'm running synthetic oil to a long extended oil change interval.
And for slider cams and flat tappet lifters, I run PennGrade One, which seems to have enough zinc to protect the camshaft(s) in those engines. Sometimes I'll run Rislone with the PennGrade one to add a bit more Zinc, especially if I'm spinning/abusing one of those engines. I've wiped enough lobes off enough camshafts (some Mercedes Benz camshafts that run $600-$1000 each, two per engine) using modern (SL or higher API rated) oils that I no longer trust modern oils in those engines. Those engines also get oil changes every 3,000 miles (or 3 months for "daily drivers," 6 months max for occasional "weekend drivers").