'86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap - S-10 Forum
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post #1 of 70 Old 11-22-2017, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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'86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Should probably get a thread started on here and hopefully get blessed with some wisdom from you gentlemen.

So I picked up this '95 the other day


It had a bad coolant leak in a hardline under the intake. It would puke out all of the coolant in about 20 mins. After a quick test drive I offered the guy $500 and to my surprise he accepted. So I now owned my first camaro.

Took it to the car wash first thing because it was filthy.



Aside from the interior it was a super clean car





Came with the mags too



too bad I won't be using the msd coils



The leak



The recipient




The plan was to part it out for about a month and try and recover some costs. So I started yanking it apart.



Air filter was nasty, couldn't believe it ran as well as it did.








Sketchy at its finest



Now that I've done this once it wouldn't be so bad again, but the first time does suck.



started breaking down the motor/trans





After seeing the airfilter I was worried how bad the internals were going to be. The motor had 285,000 kms on it, or 180k miles.

After pulling the valve covers I was pleasantly surprised.



The previous owner tried a stop leak goop you put in the rad, hence the rusty orange junk in all the water jackets. No nasty surprises yet though.





Could even still make out the cross hatching on the walls.



Couple more pics,






Scrapped the car this aft to free up some space in the garage.




So far I've made $640 back in part sales.


So now onto the plan.


This 3.4 is going to be very mild. Trying to do this for as little money as I can but still keep it quality so the wife will be happy.

What I need it for - Hills. I live in a very mountainous area and the 2.8 just lacks torque as soon as I hit any incline. So I want to build this 3.4 for low end torque and daily driving.

I'm going to completely dissasemble, inspect and then move on from there. I plan on getting the block hot tanked and honed. Most likely cam bearings replaced at the same time.



Now onto the questions. Am I better off buying all of the rebuild parts individually or should I just spring for one of these rebuild kits? -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Rebu...0AAOSwv0tVGewz


I understand I'll need to either have my flywheel machined or buy a neutrally balanced flywheel as my truck is an '86 and I believe for reading they swapped over in '87.

Oil pan questions.

My truck is the hybrid 1/2 v-belt - 1/2 serp setup. What oil pan would it currently have? The 2 piece rear main or one piece? From what I've read I believe it's the 2 piece older style pan. I plan on running all the same accessories and not swapping over to serp so can I get away with this oil pan & water pump/timing cover that's currently on the '86?


Has anyone ever played around with the edelbrock intakes on these 3.4s? I've got one left over from a 2.8 build with a 4 barrel adapter. I was playing around with the idea of running a 4 barrel to tbi adapter plate on top of it all. Not sure if there are any gains to be had there or not?

TBI info? From what I've read most guys maintain the 2.8 tbi and just swap in 4.3 injectors as the 2.8 injectors tend to lean out in the high rpm range (4500 rpm+) There seems to mixed feelings on whether a custom prom is required as well. I've read a lot of "runs to rich" "doesn't idle nicely" from guys with 4.3 injectors. Any input on this subject?

Hogging out the intake/tbi. A lot of guys have talked about hogging out the intake/tbi to get more air flowing. What exactly are they doing? I'm sure it will be evident when I match the two up but at the moment I don't know and would like to pre plan as much as possible.



My trucks an automatic, I've yet to find an auto swap that was done. Any other issues or things I need to anticipate due to this?

I'm considering a mild cam. As I previously mentioned I'm trying to get max torque in the 1500-3500 range. The truck will hardly ever see revs higher than that. Is there anything else you guys could recommend as far as bang for the buck torque goes?





I would love to build a hybrid with some nice new aluminum heads but it's just not in the budget.


Thats all I have right now. Sure I'll have a ton more in the coming weeks.

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post #2 of 70 Old 11-22-2017, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Starting a parts list

I've seen a lot of builds use these rockers - Competition Cams 1413-12 Magnum Roller

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Can't beat that price. Unless that's just for 1? My question is should I go for the 1.52 or 1.6 ratio?
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post #3 of 70 Old 11-22-2017, 07:21 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I don't think I would believe the part of the description on Amazon that says 15-30 HP increase. How is a stock ratio rocker with simply a roller tip going to give you that? Less wear on the valve tip, OK, but 30 HP on a 3.4?
If you are looking for torque go with the 1.6. Increasing lift while maintaining the existing duration = more torque.
I bet Comp cams will say they ad 50HP. Couldn't resist the sarcasm
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post #4 of 70 Old 11-22-2017, 08:19 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Surprisingly, these 3.4 engines are very rugged.
GM learned from the 2.8 mistakes and improved the 3.4 to the point of almost being bullet proof.
I bought a 3.4 out of an almost identical Camaro at a Upull here. It cost me $125 US and had 125K miles on it. Overall, it was very clean and was an original auto transmission vehicle.
I installed a crazy cam, double roller timing chain, Mallory distributor, headers, Holley 390 and an Edelbrock intake.
I was driving back from NY to Baton Rouge when the engine made a pop and started running on 5 cylinders. And of course, this was 2 in the morning somewhere in North Alabama.
Long story short, I stopped overnight, then drove to Baton Rouge the next day limping all of the way.
Know what it was? A busted rocker stud due to the nutty cam. It has about .500 lift and somewhere in the .290s advertised duration.
So... I had to buy ARP studs and also bought Crane roller rockers ($$) No more problems


The result of all of this: The truck runs mid 14s at the 1320 with a 4.10 posi rear, and it's a 5 speed. It has over 225K miles on it now, and has done nothing but run super.


I never touched anything in the long block aside from the cam.


Jimmykicker on the forum did something similar. He went from 4 barrel to TBI later, and had a PIA time doing it.
Here's the thread:
https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/c...e-help-513616/


Here's the parts list:
https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/3...d-info-428709/


Photobucket fckd everything up those bungholes....


These still are a good baseline for information.


I've had great luck with mine, and it's been a blast to drive. Oh, I also bought a complete clutch kit that came with a new (correct) flywheel. It was under $150...
Too bad you're in Canada, everything is way more expensive there.

S10 addiction:
1)'82 S10, 383, 700R4, Shorty
2) '85 S10, 3.4, 700R4 4x4 stretch cab (Redneck)
3) '90 S10 2.5, 5 speed shorty
4) '91 S10, Built 3.4, 5 speed shorty (Voodoo)
5) '92 S10, 2.5, 5 speed shorty, (Barbie)
6) '92 S10, 2.5 5 speed, Shorty
7) 1979 LUV, Buick 3.8 V6, TH 350 Shorty.
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post #5 of 70 Old 11-22-2017, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

^ Thanks for the info Max. I've read probably a hundred different posts from you while researching this, I appreciate the input.
The truck is currently a TBI so I don't predict any major issues there. I'm torn between swapping over to the 4.3 TBI and hogging the intake or maintaining the current one, just simply because I recently rebuild it. I've read good things about doing the 4.3 tbi swap but unsure if it's really necessary for my low rpm that I'll typically be running this in.

I'm basically just looking for the best bang for my buck out this build. I want to keep it simple and relatively inexpensive. However if there is something I can/should do now and you guys can speak from experience please by all means speak up.


oldeerslayer, yeah there is absolutely no way that I'm going to pick up anywhere close to 15 hp with those roller rockers. It's something I'm questioning doing at all to be honest because I'm not sure if the cost is justifiable. I figured if I was doing a cam, my as well? Thanks for you input, I appreciate it.
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post #6 of 70 Old 11-23-2017, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Got it down to a bare block tonight.

The main bearings aren't in great shape.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


Reflected on the crank

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


#1 has a decent knick in it,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


I won't be reusing the cam but it doesn't look terrible

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

lastly cylinder walls

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


Currently planning on

Hot dip the block, hone
Polish crank,
new bearing throughout entire engine
new pistons
cam
lifters
rockers(?)
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post #7 of 70 Old 11-23-2017, 09:20 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I had a 4.3 TBI on my 2.8 for years. The 4.3, 305 and 350 TBIs are the same bore size (1 5/8") with different injectors. There were probably varying changes among them but nothing that can't be worked through (e.g. vacuum port arrangement and count). Electrically they're the same, though in the early 1990s the TPS became non-adjustable and gained a round plug rather than the flat one. It's easy to rewire the harness to use either plug, as they are electrically the same.

The issue that comes up with using a 4.3 TBI is the throttle lever - namely, it's on 180 degrees off from the 2.8 TBI throttle lever. The fix is to grind the plat off of the end of the shaft (do NOT remove the throttle butterfly screws instead!), flip the lever over, and weld it back on.

I've bored two intakes -- one on my truck, and one for my old '84 S-10 Blazer (Dad's got it now). The first one I hogged out via a die grinder and finished it with a hone on a drill press. So, not brilliant but it did work. The next one went much better. I managed to get the intake clamped properly to my drill press table, and "bored" it with a 1 5/8" hole saw and lots of cutting oil, then honed it with a brake hone. Are there better ways to do that? Yes. I was doing with what I had at the time, and honestly it wasn't awful.

Jay Vessels
1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2017 Subaru WRX
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post #8 of 70 Old 11-24-2017, 04:22 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

A 4.3 tbi from a 92ish Astro van has the throttle lever on the same side as the s10 2.8 tbi.

-NEW DAILY. '86 Blazer 54k miles!!!
https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f20/my-new-gem-815417/

'92 EXTENDED Cab 408 LSx t56 Magnum!!!
Build thread-
https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/l...56-n-a-665850/

-2000 RCSB 2.2 5 speed.... SOLD!!!
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post #9 of 70 Old 11-27-2017, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

^ That's good to know. I might keep my eye open for one at the yard.

I appreciate the input on the intake boring jwvess--.


I was just looking at headers. It appears there isn't a header offered for this set up. Hedman only makes a header for 5 speed trucks or autos with floor shifters? I was looking at these - https://www.summitracing.com/int/par.../gmc/model/s15



I'm curious what the difference is and if it's something easy to work around.


Got it down to a bare block and gave it a quick pressure wash at work so I could get a better look.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


The previous owner put some of that stop leak shit in the rad. I've got to say I've heard bad things but to pull a motor apart and really see how bad that stuff is, its incredible. The lower half of the block was completely plugged up with a thick orange goop. It did not flow at all, just sat there in a thick mass. I would never ever try that as a fix.

back on the stand,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


So I'm definitely looking at a full rebuild. hoping the crank is fine with just a polish. Probably get it bored slightly while I'm at it. Taking it the machine shop this week, go from there.


List of parts to buy

Neutrally balanced flexplate
Cam
Timing chain
Rockers/Lifters/valve Springs/seals & retainers
Pistons
High volume oil pump
Gasket Kit
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post #10 of 70 Old 11-28-2017, 11:47 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Looking good man. Yeah I've got those same headers. But my s10 is a 2x4 5speed. So I can't comment on fitment issues. I found a used pair on craigslist. BTW you can search the entire country here - http://www.searchcraigslist.org/. Makes finding things a ton easier.

I think those are the only choice for 4x4, but I could be wrong. They're still good headers. I'd say they're slightly longer than typical "shorty" headers. The collectors stop right where the firewall meets the frame. I will suggest that if you're gonna do headers to invest in a oil filter relocation kit. Trying to get to the oil filter with those headers in the way is going to be a PITA.

I can't wait to see the block all clean and new!
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post #11 of 70 Old 12-10-2017, 12:28 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

The headers interfere with the column shift linkage. Ask me how I know...
I installed a B&M floor shift, problem solved.
I tried heating/bending the shift linkage first - no worky.
I then cut it in several sections, it sort of worked, but not worth it.
Since photo extortionist took over my pix, I can't post my 3.4 conversion.


I ran (2) 2.5 connector pipes from the headers to a Flowblaster "Y" pipe. The Y pipe exited to a 3" opening, which I then ran a 3" cat to a Summit Racing 3" exhaust system. Looks factory and sounds killer.
I have done this on three of my S10s. Never a problem and the only thing giving it away is the sewer pipe size tailpipe exiting in the stock location. Totally trick.


I mentioned Jimmy Kicker went from Eddy/Holley 4 barrel back to the TBI system. He said it was a PIA, but provided additional performance. I have to believe him, but it seems hard to believe anyway,


Are you looking for power or just reliability?


If you want a little more bag, and are going to replace your pistons, you may want to consider a set of flat top pistons with the same compression height (pin to piston crown distance) as your current dish pistons. I haven't researched this, but as an example - the 2.5 Iron Duke takes the exact same size piston as a 350 small block. I did a bunch of research and cross referencing to find this out.
I know they made flat tops for the second gen alloy head 3.4s, but I don't know what the compression height is. It may be different than an iron head 3.4. It's pretty easy to find out.
ARI Engines is a pretty good source for this kind of info. If you call the tech line, they may help you.
http://www.engine-parts.com/

S10 addiction:
1)'82 S10, 383, 700R4, Shorty
2) '85 S10, 3.4, 700R4 4x4 stretch cab (Redneck)
3) '90 S10 2.5, 5 speed shorty
4) '91 S10, Built 3.4, 5 speed shorty (Voodoo)
5) '92 S10, 2.5, 5 speed shorty, (Barbie)
6) '92 S10, 2.5 5 speed, Shorty
7) 1979 LUV, Buick 3.8 V6, TH 350 Shorty.
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post #12 of 70 Old 03-03-2018, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Brucelee41042, thanks for the input on the headers. I doubt I'll be going that route as it's just added cost at this point. I think I'll definitely be taking that filter relocation tip though as I hate the mess it makes pulling the filter in the stock location.


Mad Max, thanks for the input on the headers as well. Yeah I don't think it's an option for me as I'm reg cab with a bench seat and the center console is already in place with the 4wd shifter. I think it would be just such a pain in the butt. This build is solely for reliability/longevity. After having the pistons and cylinders checked I won't be replacing the pistons afterall. Thanks for the tip though. From what I've read about the hybrid builds guys will run the 3400 pistons with the matching heads but you can't run them with iron heads as it bumps up the compression to much. Thanks for the input on the tbi set up as well.

been a minute, haven't gotten much done unfortunately. I chose a really ****** machine shop and between loosing parts, forgetting what they were going to do and ordering the wrong parts it was there for nearly 2 months. Everyone I talked to suggested the shop but in the end it seemed like unless you were doing a 20k+ build you weren't worth their time. They set me back almost 3 months now and were way more trouble then they were worth.

Finally have it back now and just waiting on all the bits and pieces from summit to come in.

So I had the heads resurfaced and ground, polished crank, honed the cylinders and they checked them against the pistons. Everything checked out nicely. New cam bearings are in as well.

The machine shop lost my intake valves and supplied me with these which are obviously not the right size as replacements. Good times.



I've been debating on going this route back and fourth and would love some more input. I have this old edelbrock intake with 4 barrel top.




So I've got a transdapt adapter on order to convert the above set-up to tbi. I planned on just running the 2.8 tbi for now and see how it performed. This isn't a high performance build by any means so not having some extra cfm (4.3 tbi) at the very high end is not a big deal.


It looks like this adapter is going to rotate my tbi about 40 degrees though and I'll end up with all kind of issues when it comes to the throttle cable bracket and the coil? I've been trying to do a bit of research on this and any info on this set-up is very limited. I've read where a couple guys have said the stock tbi intake is just as good or better than the edelbrock? Any input would be great because I would hate to go to the extra expense and hassle for nothing. At the moment I think I'm going to cancel the trandapt adapter and just stick with the stock intake as it appears it's just not worth the effort unless someone can convince me otherwise?



Currently waiting on;

Comp camp 252/252
Flexplate
comp valve springs 302 lb/in
Clevite Main bearings
Cloyes timing chain & damper
Fel pro 3.4 head gaskets
Freeze plug set
Slp rod bearings
Mahle ring set - moly
Slp full 2.8 gasket set

Few things are on back order so hopefully by months end I can start building it.

again appreciate the input from all you guys who have already done the swap.


Andrew
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post #13 of 70 Old 03-03-2018, 06:47 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Id like to know how you got the s-10 engine out...Im doing a 87 4X4..

87 4X4 5 speed 2.8 being replaced with a goodwrench 3.4, fiero valve covers, intake bored to accept a larger 4.3 TB.
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post #14 of 70 Old 03-03-2018, 07:23 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Can I ask what the machine shop charged you?
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post #15 of 70 Old 03-03-2018, 08:52 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Hello,

I don't have any experience with the aftermarket intakes. However, rotating the TBI "square" on the intake with the adapter will probably make your cables too long. You might be able to use a carbureted 2.8's cables but I don't know for sure if they will be the right length either.

Even a stock 2.8 benefits some from the 4.3 TBI swap so your 3.4 would definitely see that as an improvement.

Rumor mill has it that the Edelbrock intake's runners were mixed-size to match their headers with mixed-size tubes, as an attempt to broaden the power band. I've never seen the Edelbrock intake in person so I don't know if that's true. I had Edelbrock headers on my 2.8 but it's been a while since I pulled that engine, and Dad has those headers now so I can't look to refresh my memory.

Jay Vessels
1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2017 Subaru WRX
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post #16 of 70 Old 03-03-2018, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Id like to know how you got the s-10 engine out...Im doing a 87 4X4..
I have yet to pull the '86's motor out. If it's anything like a 2wd you can reach all of the bolts behind the bell housing and just yank the motor alone. I know a lot of guys pull the entire assembly (engine, trans, transfercase) together.


Quote:
Originally Posted by s10jam View Post
Can I ask what the machine shop charged you?
They charged me $724 to;

Hone the block
Cam bearings + install
Polish Crankshaft
Grind Valves & seats,
Resurface the heads
Hot tank everything

Thats in Canadian dollars though. That would be about $560 USD.



I picked up this 1300lb engine stand for $30



Also built myself a new work station



Also purchased this cherry picked for $110



Quote:
Originally Posted by jwvess-- View Post
Hello,

I don't have any experience with the aftermarket intakes. However, rotating the TBI "square" on the intake with the adapter will probably make your cables too long. You might be able to use a carbureted 2.8's cables but I don't know for sure if they will be the right length either.

Even a stock 2.8 benefits some from the 4.3 TBI swap so your 3.4 would definitely see that as an improvement.

Rumor mill has it that the Edelbrock intake's runners were mixed-size to match their headers with mixed-size tubes, as an attempt to broaden the power band. I've never seen the Edelbrock intake in person so I don't know if that's true. I had Edelbrock headers on my 2.8 but it's been a while since I pulled that engine, and Dad has those headers now so I can't look to refresh my memory.
You're right the trans and throttle cables would be slightly to long and require shortening or rerouting. The throttle cable bracket would get shoved right over into the coil as well. It would be a bit of a pain to work with.

I was reading a thread that was talking about the same thing as far as the intake runner sizes. I just went out and snapped some pics. The intake runners are all the same width but the left bank measure 3/8" shorter on the upper side of the intake and 1/2" shorter on the side that mates against the head.












After doing a little more reading it would appear by restricting some of the runners and header pipe sizes it produces a flatter torque curve. Apparently this intake was originally designed for pretty much my application 4x4 with auto trans. The flatter torque curve that doesn't drop off as drastically on the high end is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for. Shoot, may have to give this a go afterall haha.
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post #17 of 70 Old 03-06-2018, 08:36 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I have an 87 2wd blazer with the 3.4 engine. I have had the 4 bbl. (390 Holley / Offenhauser intake) and Crane 260 cam). My advice is to retain the stock intake and have it bored for a 4.3 tbi, a mild cam with specs similar to the gm 3.4 crate motor cam and a cat-back free flow, mine is just the inexpensive Dynomax and it sounds great. This set-up provides a good hp boost with reliability and compatibility. If I remember correctly the 86 blazer had that one-off 2 belt pulley set-up, you might want to change it to a single belt with proper rotation water pump.

First Gen. 2wd sbc.
First Gen. 2wd 3.4
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post #18 of 70 Old 03-22-2018, 09:36 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I'm back! I have not been on the site in 14 months!

Nice build. Happy to help where I can.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Custom exhaust, shift kit, e-fan.


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
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I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #19 of 70 Old 03-22-2018, 09:38 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezrollin561 View Post
If I remember correctly the 86 blazer had that one-off 2 belt pulley set-up, you might want to change it to a single belt with proper rotation water pump.
The 86 is the bastard child version. I switched my 84 to the 87-93 version. Don't ever break the alternator bracket though...they are HARD to find.



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post #20 of 70 Old 03-29-2018, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

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Originally Posted by ezrollin561 View Post
I have an 87 2wd blazer with the 3.4 engine. I have had the 4 bbl. (390 Holley / Offenhauser intake) and Crane 260 cam). My advice is to retain the stock intake and have it bored for a 4.3 tbi, a mild cam with specs similar to the gm 3.4 crate motor cam and a cat-back free flow, mine is just the inexpensive Dynomax and it sounds great. This set-up provides a good hp boost with reliability and compatibility. If I remember correctly the 86 blazer had that one-off 2 belt pulley set-up, you might want to change it to a single belt with proper rotation water pump.
Thanks for the input, I'll probably be looking into the 4.3 tbi in the future.

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Nice build. Happy to help where I can.
Hey, thanks I really appreciate that. Your past posts have been a lot of help for me with this.


Well after over a month on back order some stuff showed up,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

So I got started, crank and rear main seal in,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Pistons ready to go in, just need to call clevite and confirm the orientation of the upper moly coated ring. Typically they usually have a dot or some lettering indicating up but these ones only had an M on one side. So I'm assuming that's up but figured better to call and ask.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

started banging in freeze plugs,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

have to grind this little nub off the back off the timing chain dampener. Feel like I had this problem my other truck as well.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


Lastly I noticed the key on the nose of the crank seems to be uneven? Can't remember if I can just pop this out and reset or if it's suppose to be like this?


Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr



maybe get the shortblock done tomorrow.
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post #21 of 70 Old 03-29-2018, 10:24 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

It's just a half moon key, you can pop it out and even it up. I wouldn't bother personally, the pitch direction would help if anything
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post #22 of 70 Old 03-30-2018, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

^ thanks, I was just being anal. Left it as is.

got all the pistons stabbed into the block this afternoon.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Then had a setback. I ordered this cloyes timing set through summit and they had it's application good for 2.8, 3.1's and 3.4's. However it's definitely wrong. You can see the new silver pulley below and the bolt pattern is completely different. Believe it's for a sbc. Regardless, they sent me a sealed power oe replacement timing set and told me to keep this one free of charge. So that's alright I guess. Just need to wait another week to do anything. Cam's in at least.


Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr



Any suggestions on how to plug up this hole? The s-15 intake doesn't require it. Small freeze plug?

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

For that plug it's either RNB-555-012 or RNB-555-101. I can't remember which one is the cam sensor plug or the crank sensor plug on the side of the block. But you can measure the hole and buy the right one.

Looking good so far dude. And yeah also check to see that you might need to shave down some of the rubber/plastic on the side of the timing chain dampener. I had to on mine at least.
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post #24 of 70 Old 04-02-2018, 03:11 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

SBC and 60 degree V6 gen 1 and 2 use the same cam bolt pattern, just FYI.

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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

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Originally Posted by Brucelee41042 View Post
For that plug it's either RNB-555-012 or RNB-555-101. I can't remember which one is the cam sensor plug or the crank sensor plug on the side of the block. But you can measure the hole and buy the right one.

Looking good so far dude. And yeah also check to see that you might need to shave down some of the rubber/plastic on the side of the timing chain dampener. I had to on mine at least.
Thanks for the #'s on those plugs. I'll try and source those this week. Thanks for the tip on the dampener as well. I remember seeing pics of a few on build threads that chunked a corner out of them. I'll be sure to keep that in mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Raven View Post
SBC and 60 degree V6 gen 1 and 2 use the same cam bolt pattern, just FYI.
I see, thanks I didn't know that. This is the original timing set I ordered,
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...064k/overview/
It says chev v6/v8 so when it didn't fit my application I assumed it was for a v8. Looking at some other sources apparently it's for a 5.0 or 5.7 chev motor?



So instead of just sitting around waiting for the timing set I got busy yanking the 2.8 out of the truck.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

the motor was spotless internally, not even the slightest hint of sludge.
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

definitely needed some new valve stem seals
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

and the money shot after way to much messing around.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

So unbeknownst to me prior to starting this the 2wd and 4wd chassis have a slightly different engine mounting location. The 2.8 in a 4wd chassis is not fun. The bellhousing sits so tight to the firewall you can't even get a wrench on the top two bolts, no chance of reaching in with a long extension set and an articulating head either.


Originally I planned to pull the entire assembly motor/trans/tc all in one shot only to realize I would have to drop the front diff as well to do this. So I did a bunch of stuff like remove both the tc cross member and the one that floats under the trans, only to realize later I didn't have to. I then jacked the engine up to remove the engine mount plates, then drop it down until it was laying on the front diff to access the rear bell housing bolts. I was hoping to drop it in fully assembled by I don't think I'll have any chance of getting the bellhousing bolts back in the top if I do.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


on the passenger side I have this knock (?) sensor I'm guessing. Is this critical to run? I would like to just eliminate if I can but don't want to get a service engine light.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

also what's this sensor next to the oil pressure sending unit? It's pretty toasty and again would like to eliminate if I can.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


The current to-do list, and I'm sure I'm forgetting 20 other things.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


I'm deleting the AIR system as well while I'm at it, as well as removing the cat (old one is rotted out)
Anything with deleting the AIR that I have to consider aside from a shorter belt and a plug in the exhaust manifold?

Also anyone have any practical ideas for a remote mount filter?


Thanks again for the help and tips guys, it's really nice to hear from guys who have been down this road before.
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post #26 of 70 Old 04-03-2018, 09:22 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Hello,

Keep the knock sensor. You'll get a code if you don't.

The two sensors on the oil filter adapter are the oil pressure gauge sending unit and the fuel pump switch. The switch assembly is redundant power for the fuel pump. The switch is in parallel with the fuel pump relay because GM didn't seem to trust the relay? It will not shut the engine down for low oil pressure like some have said in the past, it's just there in case the relay fails (since it's in parallel with the relay, there's no way for it to shut down the pump). You could eliminate it if you want, but chase down where those wires go first to make sure you don't lose something else with it.

Disclaimer: it's illegal in the U.S. to remove the cat or the AIR system, even if there aren't any inspections in your area, if you drive it on the road. That said, removing the AIR system won't cause any issues with the ECM.

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post #27 of 70 Old 04-03-2018, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

^Thank you, I was just trying to find exactly that info through googling. Really appreciate the input.
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post #28 of 70 Old 04-03-2018, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I've been reading a lot of mixed information about the dampener I should use. A lot of guys say "you have to use the 3.4 harmonic balancer, to match the neutrally balanced flywheel" and a lot of guys say " you have to use the 2.8 harmonic balance because the 3.4 won't sit properly on the flywheel." Being my truck is an '86 and I'm swapping to a neutrally balanced flywheel do I need to swap out the harmonic balancer as well? I was under the impression they weren't necessarily related to one another.
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post #29 of 70 Old 04-04-2018, 01:35 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

On the 60 degree V6, all harmonic balancers are neutrally balanced, so you can use either one.

the only time it would matter is if you are using the 3.4 SFI system, the 3.4 balancer has a tone ring for the 24x crank sensor pressed into the back of it, the 2.8 balancer will not have this.

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post #30 of 70 Old 04-05-2018, 11:00 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

GM, bottom line, what the best way to remove a 2.8 from a 4x4??

87 4X4 5 speed 2.8 being replaced with a goodwrench 3.4, fiero valve covers, intake bored to accept a larger 4.3 TB.
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post #31 of 70 Old 04-05-2018, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

If it's a standard, I would say lift the cab a few inches and yank everything in one shot. Either that or drop both cross members and yank everything together (still not sure if you'll clear the front diff by doing this.)

However if it's an auto I would do this.

Pull distributor - allows you to jack up the engine further
Remove exhaust manifolds
Unbolt rear most cross member under Transfer case
Unbolt the large single bolts from the motor mounts on either side so you can lift the motor
Use a cherry picker up to lift the motor as high as you can while it's still attached to trans.
You do this so you can remove the motor mount plates from the block
This allows you to then drop the motor down so the oil pan is laying on the front diff - otherwise the plates hit first
Finally you can now access all of the bell housing bolts
Before removing all of them I would yank the starter (2 bolts) and unbolt the harmonic balancer first (3 bolts)

That's it as far as I can remember at the moment. It's fairly simple for an auto. I'm not trying to undersell it, there's a few really crappy bolts to try and gain access too, especially back couple on the manifolds. However, it's do-able without having to pull everything. This method allows you to keep trans/transfercase in place and you don't even have to pull the front clip. Heck you could even leave the rad in.


edit*
Just noticed your running a T5, sorry that probably didn't help much.
From what I understand there are 3 ways,

1) lift the cab a fair bit and pull everything (engine, trans,tc) in one shot

2) drop the cross members and try and shimmy it all between the front diff and firewall

3) I would try this first

remove front driveshaft
remove cv's
drop the front diff (4 bolts)

Then follow the process I used of lifting the engine to remove motor mount plates and dropping it gain access to the bellhousing.

Depending on how old your truck is this may be the easiest/less painful option imo. If you are just turfing the 2.8 when you're done then I would recommend pulling the intake/heads before trying to access the back bellhousing bolts as it will make access 10x easier.
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post #32 of 70 Old 04-06-2018, 10:56 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Ok, thanks

87 4X4 5 speed 2.8 being replaced with a goodwrench 3.4, fiero valve covers, intake bored to accept a larger 4.3 TB.
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post #33 of 70 Old 04-08-2018, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Raven View Post
On the 60 degree V6, all harmonic balancers are neutrally balanced, so you can use either one.

the only time it would matter is if you are using the 3.4 SFI system, the 3.4 balancer has a tone ring for the 24x crank sensor pressed into the back of it, the 2.8 balancer will not have this.
Thanks for the clarification on that. I was looking at them side by side today and aside from the ring you mentioned they look identical.
Also, thanks for contributing so much to this forum Raven. Seriously every time I search something your posts come up and are a wealth of knowledge.

Received the replacement timing chain friday and installed it.
I was going to spring for the cloyes double roller but honestly for the extra $160$ it was going to cost me it was hard to justify it as this isn't a performance build. Hoping I don't regret that in the future.



I wish I could use the camaro y-pipe, it's a heck of a lot bigger and the manifolds are a nicer design as well.



Finished tearing down the old 2.8 this afternoon and started cleaning everything up. Going to go pressure wash it all tomorrow.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


I was looking at a set of headman headers on summit. I can see why they only work for floor shifters now quite easily though. Between the front driveshaft and column shift rods there isn't a whole of room to try and squeeze a pipe through there.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr




Anyone have any thoughts on blocking off the intake exhaust cross overs? I've been doing some reading and I've seen a lot of mixed reviews about doing it. My understanding it is it helps with cold starts. The issue I have is this truck is used in all 4 seasons, in the summer we can see temps as high as 45C or 113f, and then as low as -40c, -40f. I would love to get a little bit more performance out of the truck and if I can do that by not having the cross over and dropping the intake temp slightly that would be great. I would hate to have to let the truck warm up for 15 mins every-morning though,
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post #34 of 70 Old 04-08-2018, 03:37 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I try to help...

I use OEM or OEM replacement timing sets on my more performance oriented builds and have yet to have an issue from a timing set, FWIW.

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post #35 of 70 Old 04-08-2018, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

^ this is an oem replacement chain so it should be fine, the double roller would have been nice but by the time I got it here it would have been an additional $200 CAD. Hoping this one doesn't stretch too much. The 2.8's chain was a wet noodle when I pulled the timing cover off, I was surprised it had stretched as much as it had.

I've been looking into blocking off the crossover a bit more and the advice out there is all over the place. Some guys saying you'll loose mileage and driveability. Others saying because it's an aluminium intake it heats up much quicker then a steel intake on cold starts and the cross over is unnecessary.

I went to the wash bay at work and sprayed down a few pretty nasty pieces.
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

The boiler heats the water in the range of 190f and it's super high pressure so it did a real nice job.
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

I was surprised it actually stripped the underbody coating from the factory off the cross member.
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

and back at home drying off, have to make due with what you have sometimes
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

I'm kind of bored at the moment so I've been on a cleaning/painting spree,
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

I know an aluminium intake performs better unpainted but I don't have a sandblaster and couldn't bring myself to stick it back on top the way it looked.
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


Got the oil pan, timing cover and water pump mounted up. Just waiting to pick up the heads and valves, hopefully early this week. Hopefully get that all mounted up by weeks end and give it all a coat of paint.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


scored some 4.3 injectors from the local pick n pull for $5, as well as a bunch of hardware to replace some of the rusty ones I've removed.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr
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post #36 of 70 Old 04-24-2018, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Been a minute. Had to shelve this while I was writing final exams. Just finished the last one today, so I'm hoping to get this wrapped up real soon.

In the meantime I did get a few small things accomplished.

Picked up a replacement knock sensor from the yard for $.50 as I broke the clip off the old one,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


I wanted to maintain the heat shield and trans exhaust mount when I removed the cat so this is what I did,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

I'm still on the fence about a remote mount filter. I picked up two different style mounts off a jimmy and an s10 the other day from the yard. One mounts in the traditional spot on the fender and the other right under the rad onto the core support. Just need the adapter to the block now if I decide to go that route. One has the oil cooler bypass and the other does not.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

got all the hard lines too,
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


Anybody care to share some pics of their remote filter set-ups and how they liked it? I'm afraid it's just going to be one more thing to go wrong essentially.

Lastly I picked up some new hardware for the exhaust manifolds.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr
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post #37 of 70 Old 04-26-2018, 09:36 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I wouldn't do a remote filter. While that seems cool and easy to change, I've seen plenty of hose failures reported on 4.3 trucks leading to engine seizure or other damage. Too risky. I've seen them in worse places than a 3.4/2.8.


By the way damanx did the Edelbrock intake with a homemade adapter. He could probably tell you how he cabled it and how it performed vs a stocker bored out...which is what I think he has now. I haven't seen him on the site in since I have been back, but I have his phone number as we are friends outside of the forum. I'm sure he'd be happy to answer those questions. He has some threads on here you might find too, but of course since Photobucket took our images hostage and Imageshack deleted everything on the old system, all the images are all missing...They absolutely ruined the content on this site.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Custom exhaust, shift kit, e-fan.


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
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post #38 of 70 Old 04-26-2018, 10:39 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I've done a remote oil filter on 2 of my Dimes. Both 3.4s. I used a remote kit from Jegs and Summit. It's about $45 and uses a Ford PH8A filter which is huge compared to the stock crap. The hardware they use is far superior to the factory swill. The factory aluminum pipes and connections tend to rot in salt climates causing problems. The connectors are also crap.
On the Redneck rig, I left the filter housing loose and put it near the brake booster. Makes it ultra easy to change and no mess at all. It sits on a shop rag (ha)
On the Voodoo rig - I ran the hoses around the rear of the engine and attached the filter housing to the sway bar (!!!) with tie wraps. It gets air flow to cool a little and it is also ultra easy to change and - no mess.

Headers? I installed a floor shifter - end of problem.
I had to modify the connector 'Y' pipe, but it wasn't a huge problem.
If you don't have a lift, it's not as easy to do under vehicle work... (duh)
Suggestion: when you install the exhaust manifolds, use plenty of high temp anti seize on the fasteners.
Also, IIRC, the later S10 manifolds were bigger than the early counterparts. The Y pipe was also bigger. 87 and newer. Check it out.
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4) '91 S10, Built 3.4, 5 speed shorty (Voodoo)
5) '92 S10, 2.5, 5 speed shorty, (Barbie)
6) '92 S10, 2.5 5 speed, Shorty
7) 1979 LUV, Buick 3.8 V6, TH 350 Shorty.
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post #39 of 70 Old 04-30-2018, 09:16 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Yeah I think I'd only suggest a remote oil filter if you're going with headers. The oil filter should be easily accessed with manifolds.

I mounted it up on the inner wheel well on the drivers side:



I have since moved it down closer to ground, but don't have any newer pics.
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post #40 of 70 Old 04-30-2018, 10:13 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

You need to use a different host for your pics.

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post #41 of 70 Old 05-01-2018, 03:04 AM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Interesting build.
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post #42 of 70 Old 05-02-2018, 02:11 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brucelee41042 View Post
Yeah I think I'd only suggest a remote oil filter if you're going with headers. The oil filter should be easily accessed with manifolds.

.

I personally can get to mine fine and I have Edelbrock headers on my truck.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Custom exhaust, shift kit, e-fan.


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
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Originally Posted by Racer_X View Post
I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #43 of 70 Old 05-07-2018, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I really appreciate all the input about the remote filter. The reality is this is a bush truck and it gets so muddy and dusty that a little bit of oil on top of the front diff isn't the end of the world so I've decided to forgo the remote filter set up for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmykicker View Post
I wouldn't do a remote filter. While that seems cool and easy to change, I've seen plenty of hose failures reported on 4.3 trucks leading to engine seizure or other damage. Too risky. I've seen them in worse places than a 3.4/2.8.


By the way damanx did the Edelbrock intake with a homemade adapter. He could probably tell you how he cabled it and how it performed vs a stocker bored out...which is what I think he has now. I haven't seen him on the site in since I have been back, but I have his phone number as we are friends outside of the forum. I'm sure he'd be happy to answer those questions. He has some threads on here you might find too, but of course since Photobucket took our images hostage and Imageshack deleted everything on the old system, all the images are all missing...They absolutely ruined the content on this site.
Thanks for offering the contact info but I'm just going to stick with the stock tbi intake for now. If I change my mind in the future I'll be in touch for sure.


Got a fair bit done in the last week.


Got my heads back from the shop. Beyond stoked with the level of service this gentlemen gave me.
He ported the heads, checked the valve guides, cleaned up my valves and ground them so that they were all at the same installed height, and a bunch of other stuff.


some before /afters of the heads



"swirl bump" wiped out and the hard turn at the valve was smoothed out significantly,



should get a fair bit more air through now. I've read a few times on here that removing the swirl vane kills power. I did a lot of reading on this prior to going this route and aside from loosing some fuel economy at an idle, this should be a positive all around.





fresh coat of paint,





on another run to the yard I spotted this beauty. Grew up in one of these.

minty.




changed out one of the u-joints on the front driveshaft,



Had to burn out the old nylon factory insert to get it out,





this was a 5 min job with the vice,



new flywheel on, opted to install the engine without the heads or intake to make access to the bellhousing bolts easier,


The install went so smoothly. Everything just fell into place. Almost to a point where I was saying to myself wow this is to easy, something has to be wrong? Quickly found my mistake a few minutes later trying to bolt the torque converter to the flywheel and it was a mile away.




So back out it came,


Pretty tough to get a torque converter to seat in the crank when the old pilot bushing is still there....



Tried to use the bread method to hydraulically remove the pilot bushing but it wouldn't budge. Ended up just knocking it out with a cold chisel.


Next up I got the heads on and valve lash set,


swapped out the old 2.8 injectors for the newish 4.3 ones


broke this vacuum break valve during the removal and picked up another one from the yard for $2.50


Starting to come together, intake and tbi installed,


Made my own primer tool out of a 5/16" socket and the old 2.8 oil pump shaft


I was fairly confident I hit everything with a generous amount of assembly lube but this was good insurance, so before I stabbed the distributor in I gave the oil pump a spin for a min or two.



New aluminum rad from the yard. Can't remember how much but this thing was a smoking deal. I want to say like $45?


Until recently I did not know you should only run distilled water in aluminium rads.
It was time for fluids and I didn't want to start my new rad off with bad water.




After buttoning up a lot of stuff I tried firing it last night with no success. This morning I woke up with a fresh mind and just twisted the distributor about 10* and it fired right up. I was so stoked to hear it run. Sorry for the shaky video, this was taken while I was doing the cam break in.
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

Went to set the timing with my inductive timing light and when I pulled the #1 plug wire it left the connector on the plug...
Better now then out in the bush I guess. I had the spark plug gobbed in dielectric grease too... Quick surgery and it was fixed.



Getting down to the nitty gritty now. A lot of stuff not pictured happened in between the fire up and this pic. Brakes bled, new lines, exhaust disassembled and reassembled twice due to stupid mistake, etc, etc. Really excited to go for a test drive tomorrow hopefully.

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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Got everything buttoned up and went for the first test ride this afternoon. What a difference. Before when I hit a hill the truck would gear down just to maintain speed. It would be revving like crazy and not building speed at all.

Now it can just put up the hills at low rpm and if I give it a bit of skinny pedal it just picks up and goes. This is truly the motor these trucks should have come with.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

I made the mistake of not test fitting the starter on the 3.4 block prior to installation. I just reused the single shim that was on the 2.8 but as soon as I fired it up and heard the grinding/whining of the starter struggling to disengage I knew I made a mistake. One more shim later and it's perfect now.
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


And a cold start video,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


Just in time for may long camping,

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


This was the belt I used for the AIR delete, 49"

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr



A huge thank you to all the guys that post in this section. If it wasn't for you posting the abundance of info I never even would have known about this swap yet alone been guided through it step by step.


I've just got a few last things to scratch off the list, one being the cooling system is air locking and a small exhaust leak.
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post #45 of 70 Old 05-08-2018, 03:33 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Congrats man! That feeling of firing up a motor for the first time after a swap/build. There isn't anything like it.

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I don't think you're supposed to grind down the "shark fins" in the intake runners b/c they actually help with airflow or mixture. Someone can chime in and tell me I'm wrong or mis-remembering. But I don't think its a big deal either way.
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

I just noticed you removed the bump/shark fin... Congrats you just ruined those heads and made them flow less than stock.

There's a reason that GM put them there, and it wasn't just because they could.

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post #47 of 70 Old 05-08-2018, 09:30 PM
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

^^^
I'll finish this for you...

....But on then other hand, it's a great build and you've done a great job. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.


You're welcome.

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post #48 of 70 Old 05-09-2018, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Raven View Post
I just noticed you removed the bump/shark fin... Congrats you just ruined those heads and made them flow less than stock.

There's a reason that GM put them there, and it wasn't just because they could.
Gosh I hope that's not true. I did a lot of reading on the heads granted that was mostly from forum posts and not a ton of legit peer reviewed articles. The intake ports were worked over a fair bit, not just the fins removed. The immediate turn down that used to be almost 90* was smoothed right over to allow for better flow instead of all the air just shooting off to the far side. Granted I didn't get the guy to flow bench the heads before/after but he's been doing this for 30+ years and I took his word for it. It seems to run great, way more torque then before. However I don't have anything to compare it too. My understanding is/was at the time the fin helps with fuel economy at low engine speeds, promoting tumble and swirl, and then when rpm's get past 1800+ they hinder flow. This was just my 100' understanding of how they worked. I would love to see some hard flow bench data, or dyno #'s to compare/contrast.


Thanks Brucelee and Rhotpursuit. Pretty stoked to be driving it around again at the moment.

I've got one last issue to sort out and it's that it seems to be running a bit hot. Like the thermostat is opening late. When I originally fire it up it climbs up to 220 before the thermostat opens up and then drops right back down and then fluctuates between 210 and 90 after that. I thought it was airlocked at first but I spent nearly two hours trying to burp all the air out of the system on a steep incline and it continues to do it. Need to look into it further.
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Just going through the short list of loose ends now.

The 3.4 was running considerably warming then I was comfortable with. On first start up the temp was running as high as 220 and then dropping right off and then bouncing between 210ish - 180. I thought for sure it was air-locked as it was just opening late.

I tried bleeding/burping the air a number of times with no luck so I began to suspect the thermostat. Yanked it and definitely not air locked
Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr

So it went in the pot. It would open at 195* but only very very slightly. It wasn't until well over 200* that it would actually begin to open fully. So I put the camaro's 180* thermostat in just because it was free and on hand and it's running at much better temp now.

Untitled by Andrew Schwerdtfeger, on Flickr


I've been getting an SEL code 32, quick google search turns up this

EGR circuit Error
If the ECM monitors EGR operation. Code 32 can be set if the EGR system is not performing up to factory specifications.

Fault Code Description

32 - EGR circuit error
Symptoms

Engine ping
Rougher that normal idle
Common Problems

EGR valve sticking open or closed
Plugged EGR passage



I've looked over the EGR system and can't seem to find anything out of place or functioning improperly. Pretty simple, egr valve and the little vacuum switch.


The second suggestion for code 32 is

MAP Sensor Signal Open
The ECM monitors the incoming MAP sensor signal. Code 32 can set if the signal voltage is 5V.

Fault Code Description

32 - Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor signal open
Symptoms

Hard starting
Rich running engine
Common Problems

Failed MAP sensor
Damaged vacuum hose to MAP sensor


Now I am getting some post ignition in the muffler (only when gearing down for big hills and coasting) which I imagine is due to no cat at the moment. I pulled a couple plugs and it's pretty tough to get much of a read on them with only 60 miles on it. They definitely aren't fouled up by any means though.

Anyone have this code pop up post swap? I'm really not sure where to go with it.
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post #50 of 70 Old 05-10-2018, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '86 S15 4x4 -3.4 swap

Everything I've been reading indicates 32 is egr related. I'll have to go over the entire system and make sure I didn't push a vacuum line into a T or Elbow to far and block it off.
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