83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace - S-10 Forum
 
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post #1 of 34 Old 02-09-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

what's up s10 community

Im having a hard time figuring out what's my best option regarding putting a different engine in my truck (used 83-84 2.8 or used 93-95 3.4). I figure if I put in a used 2.8 that's the same year as my truck and it will be an easy swap; however, I'm not sure if an engine that old, from a salvage yard, can be trusted. As for the 3.4, Ive done a lot of digging and I'm still not completely sure all the problems I could run into with swapping that so Im trying to stay away form it (even though I feel its the best option).
So, Ive decided that I was going to pull my engine and seeing if it could be fixed because it was really well maintained. I figure, if it can't be fixed, it needs to be pulled anyway if I'm going to put a different engine in the truck.
Im in Iowa and its to cold outside to breath. So my plan is to take apart the engine piece by piece and bring it up to my dorm room where I would figure out the problem and fix it. If I take apart the engine, will it be light enough to lift out the truck and cary up three flights of stairs? I know smaller pieces will be but what about the bigger parts like the block?(never taken apart an engine)

Whats wrong with my engine you ask?!?
It had an overheating problem where it would be fine then slowly heat up, go into the red for a few seconds, then come back down. Now it has a knock in the engine. It starts up fine. Once its warm, it has a knock on the right side. Sounds like its coming from the middle piston or the valve cover. The knock is only there when the engine is sitting at idle and goes away with very little acceleration like turning on the heater. My guess is the head is cracked, blown gasket or a bearing spun. Anyone else ever have this problem or something similar?

I have been reading up and haven't been doing anything to actually fix the problem. Paralysis by analysis! So today I am taking the first step and taping/labeling/photographing hoses and things so I can put it back together when ready.

Ill be sure to take photos and post along the way to contribute to the forum and so you all can see.

If you guys have any advice to help me along this process or think this is a stupid idea and I should stop now/simple fix and I'm doing way too much, please let me know as it is greatly appreciated!!!(please be honest)

Thanks everyone in advance!
Chris

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post #2 of 34 Old 02-12-2019, 09:20 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Hey Chris. I've had my truck a long time (22 years) and it's an 84, so I've been in that boat. Rebuilding isn't a bad idea, but one thing to note is that the earlier blocks are more prone to rear seal leaks with the 2pc seal than newer ones. Front cover leaks are more prevalent too (at least in my experience). And if I remember right, (Max??), the earlier blocks have smaller mains bearings?

However, what you will run into in later engines is that there is no place on the block casting for your fuel pump (mechanical). You may find some 86s and maybe 87s that used left over carbed blocks, but who knows. You just have to look. Even so, it isn't insurmountable whatsoever. You can feed it with a low pressure electric pump. Make sure to wire it with a relay and safety switch. That isn't hard either. I did that with my 3.4 when it was carbureted. No biggie.

Personally, if you go to the above trouble, you might as well get a 3.4 and put that in since you will have to put a fuel pump on it anyway since it also has no place for a mechanical pump. The biggest struggle going forward is the water pump. You cannot use the old pump because the timing chain cover and oil pan sealing surface it bolts to is a different design than the one on your truck. You could use an 87-93 front cover, but you are screwed because the water pump runs reverse from the old trucks since the newer ones use serpentine belts and it runs off the back side of the belt. The fix? Use a one year, bastard child 1986 front cover. Used Vee belt/Serp combo setup with the new oil pan sealing surface. This will allow you to use the old water pump with the correct direction. These however, aren't laying around on the side of the road...I MAY have a link on one though right now. If I do, it will be available for sale. Don't worry about using the wrong cover. They don't bolt up and the pumps won't bolt to the wrong cover. If it bolts up, it is the correct one. GM MIGHT sell the "crate engine" cover if it is available. It is the same part as the 86 cover. Little to no difference although different part numbers. I can get that for you if you need it.

My advice on the above? Swap your accessories to S10 ones with the serp setup and forget it. Any 87-93 will work. That is what I did. Replace the idler and tensioner pulley. Trust me.... OR, if you find a Camaro, use those accessories. Max states it can be done. There are some hurdles, but I don't know what they are. I do know that the camaro front cover does not have a timing tab...but you can add one easy.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
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I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #3 of 34 Old 02-12-2019, 09:51 AM
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Here’s the different covers.

First one I believe is a Camaro cover 3.4. The second one is an 87-93. The last one is the 86/crate.
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1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer_X View Post
I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #4 of 34 Old 02-12-2019, 10:08 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Also to add...

Here is the 82-85 cover... it is identical pattern to the crate/86, EXCEPT the oil pan sealing surface is different and incompatible with the 3.4 pan.
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1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer_X View Post
I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #5 of 34 Old 02-12-2019, 10:26 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

I might also add pestilence and famine to photobucket for hijacking and extortion. The damage they did to forums all over the web is significant when they decided to no longer host our photos without paying them. I posted this like 9 years ago. Had to post it twice.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer_X View Post
I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #6 of 34 Old 02-12-2019, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

@jimmykicker Ive been doing a lot of research all around the internet and forum. Ive looked at other post you've talked about this. Im more at the point of the little details and want to set up an exact parts list and plan of attack. Not only what parts but what brand so i can put in some quality stuff while staying on budget.

Heres what I have so far:
3.4 engine (93 or 94)
Low pressure electric fuel pump (relay and safety switch)
89/Newer flywheel (neutrally balanced)
86 s10 cover
Hydraulic clutch system?
Fuel pressure regulator?
Change- Rear main seal

My engine overheats so I'm not sure if the oil or water pump are reusable.

Thats about all I have for not

Thanks for all the help again! Couldn't do it without the GearHeads
Chris
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post #7 of 34 Old 02-12-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Is this the correct one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303036929549 <you need to copy paste
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post #8 of 34 Old 02-12-2019, 09:00 PM
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Sure looks right. Says it fits 86 not 87 nor 85. I’m shocked that’s available. I mean like...floored.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
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I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #9 of 34 Old 02-12-2019, 09:04 PM
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Yeah, you’ll need a regulator for the fuel pump. And the 83 will need to be converted to hydraulic clutch. Not hard. Can’t believe Chevy had cable operated clutches in 1983 but they did.

That’s about all I can think of. Be really careful on the flywheel. Make sure there are no weights. I’ve been told you can take your factory one and grind off the weights, but I don’t have any input on that as my truck is automatic.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
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I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #10 of 34 Old 02-13-2019, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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It says the cover works for a 85 and 86 but not a 87. I kind of don't trust it. I would hate to go put it on and it be the wrong one

I have an automatic too so I won't need the flywheel or hydraulic clutch right?

As for he low pressure fuel pump and regulator, I'm looking at one for a 3.4 and not a 2.8? Is this something I should Not cheap out on? Any recommendation for brands

Zip Em Up and Zip Em Out....
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post #11 of 34 Old 02-14-2019, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Whats up everyone!

I think Im gonna go with Jegs products for the fuel system.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15914/10002/-1 < Jegs fuel filter with regulator
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10564/10002/-1 < Jegs Single Fuel Pump Harness and Relay Kit 30 Amp
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/41010/10002/-1 < pressure gauge
Anyone ever use any of these products or know if there any good?

With this setup, do I need a 3 prong oil pressure safety switch?

Also, is this the set up I need? I think the lowest PSI is 4.5-9 and I hear carburetors need to be ran at 7ish psi.

Thanks everyone!!!
Chris

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post #12 of 34 Old 02-15-2019, 01:25 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Yes around 7 unless you are using a Webber DGV carburetor, then it's 4.5. Can't help with much else since I hate the 2.8 so much after buying one new in 83, and having nothing but trouble with it, so I stay far away from them ever since.

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post #13 of 34 Old 02-15-2019, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Cool. Thanks @goes2fast !!! I hear the old 2.8 is notorious for having overheating, bearing and lack of power problems. However; I have also hear some people have long them for years. **** mine is the original motor and has 100k until I broke it by overheating. That’s crazy your is new and having problems.

I got some more photos of what I believe is the “******* child” 86 s10 cover @jimmykicker talked about in earlier post. Sorry if there blurry.
Is anyone sure if this is it?!?
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post #14 of 34 Old 02-15-2019, 11:08 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

The "******** child" is definitely 86 only. That looks correct. You can identify it by noting the round bottom under the crank and the absence of the two bolts. Note the swirl pattern should be that of the 82-85. The left coolant passage is lower than the 87 and F body covers. Look carefully and you will see. Look at the pattern of the 87 on and you will see the difference. Those are at a higher location. So, smooth bottom, low left coolant entry and old swirl...bam. That is an 86!

The only way you can screw this up is by putting an 87 on water pump and cover on the 3.4. With V-belts it will not cool correctly because the swirls are backward and the pump runs the reverse direction. I swapped my accessories over to serpentine....they were worn out anyway, so I just used all 87/F body stuff.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
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I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #15 of 34 Old 02-15-2019, 11:11 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

By the way, you can bypass the pressure switch, but I don't recommend it. Up to you. Supposedly it's there for safety, but others state that it it's just redundant if the relay fails. I'd have to study the schematic to weigh in on that. I did it personally. When I changed to EFI, it sure made wiring easier, since that is the same way the EFI trucks are wired.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer_X View Post
I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #16 of 34 Old 02-15-2019, 11:42 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

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Yes around 7 unless you are using a Webber DGV carburetor, then it's 4.5. Can't help with much else since I hate the 2.8 so much after buying one new in 83, and having nothing but trouble with it, so I stay far away from them ever since.
I made the mistake of putting an 84 engine back in my 84 in 1997 when I first got it. I didn't know about the weak bearings and the shoddy rear seal. I'd put an 86 engine in it, but I didn't know any better and we didn't really have access to internet to research this stuff. Still, that being said, I never had trouble with either of those. The motor was solid. Came from Auto Zone. 135k miles and still was running well. Starting to knock from the mains just a little on startup. I beat on it for 11 years delivering food in it. It held up really well. I did put a head on one side and a timing set, but that was about it. It ran well still, but the freeze plugs were rusted out and I didn't want to pull the motor only to have it possibly die in the near future. 3.4 crates were still available, but about to be discontinued. So, I pulled the trigger on that.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer_X View Post
I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #17 of 34 Old 02-21-2019, 08:31 PM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

I am currently having a 3.4L V6 out of an 92 Camaro installed in my 83 Durango 4x4. The mechanic I am having do it has a lot of knowledge and experience with everything Chevy. He had kind of a hard time finding a donor engine, but he found an entire car for about $1000. He has run into a few challenges. The first one was the oil pan. He had to chop and weld the two together. The most recent issue was the security on the computer. It wouldn't deliver fuel to the engine after the swap. The computer is currently in FL getting the security removed from it. Sounds like about an $80-$100 deal. Also had to put a fuel pump installed in the fuel tank. This was supper easy by using a fuel pump parts from a newer S-10 and a high pressure line to the engine.

I was hoping to be able to change out the mechanical clutch for the hydraulic one out of the Camaro, but since my truck is a 4x4, there is not enough room in the fire wall. I live in the Black Hills of South Dakota, and I don't want to make it a 2WD. So I am just sticking with the old one.
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post #18 of 34 Old 02-21-2019, 08:42 PM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by '83durango View Post
I am currently having a 3.4L V6 out of an 92 Camaro installed in my 83 Durango 4x4. The mechanic I am having do it has a lot of knowledge and experience with everything Chevy. He had kind of a hard time finding a donor engine, but he found an entire car for about $1000. He has run into a few challenges. The first one was the oil pan. He had to chop and weld the two together. The most recent issue was the security on the computer. It wouldn't deliver fuel to the engine after the swap. The computer is currently in FL getting the security removed from it. Sounds like about an $80-$100 deal. Also had to put a fuel pump installed in the fuel tank. This was supper easy by using a fuel pump parts from a newer S-10 and a high pressure line to the engine.

I was hoping to be able to change out the mechanical clutch for the hydraulic one out of the Camaro, but since my truck is a 4x4, there is not enough room in the fire wall. I live in the Black Hills of South Dakota, and I don't want to make it a 2WD. So I am just sticking with the old one.

You should cut/paste into your own thread.

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post #19 of 34 Old 02-21-2019, 10:15 PM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

I was just giving my two cents on Yowakawaka putting a 3.4L into his 83.
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post #20 of 34 Old 02-21-2019, 10:27 PM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Gotcha...it helps to do a partial quote of the person it's directed at.

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post #21 of 34 Old 02-22-2019, 12:29 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

I have a one owner, senior citizen driven, 1987, S10 Blazer, 2.8 V6, 4X4, with only 61K actual unmolested miles on it. I just acquired it. Looks like it was Never sat in and like new under the hood. It is absolutely Mint like new. It is a SLOOOOOO slug. What can be done to make it perform like it should???? I have been considering looking into a newer Colorado or Canyon. 2.8 4 Cyl Diesel swap (if I could find someone that knows what they are doing to do it). I think it will run better and still get fantastic fuel mileage. I am in Tn. If I can get the swap done, the original low mile engine will be up for grabs.
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post #22 of 34 Old 02-22-2019, 08:29 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by '83durango View Post
I am currently having a 3.4L V6 out of an 92 Camaro installed in my 83 Durango 4x4. The mechanic I am having do it has a lot of knowledge and experience with everything Chevy. He had kind of a hard time finding a donor engine, but he found an entire car for about $1000. He has run into a few challenges. The first one was the oil pan. He had to chop and weld the two together. The most recent issue was the security on the computer. It wouldn't deliver fuel to the engine after the swap. The computer is currently in FL getting the security removed from it. Sounds like about an $80-$100 deal. Also had to put a fuel pump installed in the fuel tank. This was supper easy by using a fuel pump parts from a newer S-10 and a high pressure line to the engine.

I was hoping to be able to change out the mechanical clutch for the hydraulic one out of the Camaro, but since my truck is a 4x4, there is not enough room in the fire wall. I live in the Black Hills of South Dakota, and I don't want to make it a 2WD. So I am just sticking with the old one.
Sounds like you should have found an 86 on S-10 as well for the oil pan and swap on the accessories. That's pretty easy. Still, leaving the Camaro stuff on it is pretty cool. I am assuming you guys are using the Camaro accessories as well? You will need to use an electric fan with the Camaro water pump or swap to an S-10 pump. I used the Camaro fan and a V6 Cavalier fan.

You are also going to encounter an issue with using that cable clutch, my friend. There is no boss on the 3.4 block for a mechanical clutch. So, you will have to fabricate one, or install a hydraulic clutch system (best) from an 86 on S-10.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
Quote:
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I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #23 of 34 Old 02-22-2019, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Durango, jimmykicker is the man when it comes to the 2.8 to 3.4 swap. I found the 86 cover he is talking about. I’ll put a link on the bottom of the post.

As for me, I’m having a hard time getting the engine out of my truck. Today I went to get started, took off a few parts and bitched out so I put it back together. This job is looking harder than I thought. I have the basic knowledge of how it all comes apart and goes back together but lack the fine details. So I’m probably going to be sticking to the 2.8 and not the 3.4.
@cliff70chevy I’ll take that engine if your getting rid of it.

If anyone can help with all the small details, that would be great! To make things easy, I’d like to FaceTime so I can show you exactly what I’m concerned about and you can help first hand. A good example is taking off the carb. I hear you can easily loose plantings when you take it off. If anyone has the time to help me out, that would be great!

This is the first swap I’ve ever attempted and I’m not exactly sure what I’m doing so thanks for all the help everyone!

76 s10 cover https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-635-...app-cvip-panel

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post #24 of 34 Old 02-22-2019, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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If anyone knows about where I can get the original manual, I’m sure that will help me. Provide a link if possible

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post #25 of 34 Old 02-23-2019, 12:11 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

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Originally Posted by jimmykicker View Post
I made the mistake of putting an 84 engine back in my 84 in 1997 when I first got it. I didn't know about the weak bearings and the shoddy rear seal. I'd put an 86 engine in it, but I didn't know any better and we didn't really have access to internet to research this stuff. Still, that being said, I never had trouble with either of those. The motor was solid. Came from Auto Zone. 135k miles and still was running well. Starting to knock from the mains just a little on startup. I beat on it for 11 years delivering food in it. It held up really well. I did put a head on one side and a timing set, but that was about it. It ran well still, but the freeze plugs were rusted out and I didn't want to pull the motor only to have it possibly die in the near future. 3.4 crates were still available, but about to be discontinued. So, I pulled the trigger on that.
The problems I had with mine was no power (4 cylinders passed me on hills) and terrible gas mileage. The best I ever got was 15 mpg highway, and the other problem was the dealer, and GM couldn't fix it. At one point GM said it couldn't have the carburetor it had on it because it wasn't a production carb. It spent more time in the shop in the 8 months that I owned it than on the road. It was good looking, but other than that, it was a POS!



Too Much Horsepower is ALMOST ENOUGH!
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post #26 of 34 Old 02-23-2019, 08:48 AM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

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Whats up everyone!

I think Im gonna go with Jegs products for the fuel system.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15914/10002/-1 < Jegs fuel filter with regulator
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10564/10002/-1 < Jegs Single Fuel Pump Harness and Relay Kit 30 Amp
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/41010/10002/-1 < pressure gauge
Anyone ever use any of these products or know if there any good?

With this setup, do I need a 3 prong oil pressure safety switch?

Also, is this the set up I need? I think the lowest PSI is 4.5-9 and I hear carburetors need to be ran at 7ish psi.

Thanks everyone!!!
Chris
I'll comment about the fuel pressure gauge and with some general advice about the relay setup.

Mechanical fuel pressure gauges are wonderful. Install it under the hood, next to the regulator. There are two reasons for this. You need to be able to see it while you're adjusting the regulator. That's not easy if you put the gauge in the dash. More importantly, when those mechanical gauges fail, they can leak. Mine more like sprayed, in my face (on the face shield of my helmet) and all over the top half of my clothing. It was in an all out race car, during a race on a race track. I didn't even drive back to the pits. I parked it on the grass just off the side of the track ASAP and bailed out. I was out of my fuel soaked racing suit, running in my underwear before I got to the fence at the edge of the track shoulder.

About the relay setup. Test this. Make the engine stop (pull the harness at the coil, for example. The fuel pump must stop pumping when the engine stops. I had a friend spend almost a year in the hospital because someone jumpered the fuel pump relay on the beater he was driving. The collision caused some minor injuries and knocked him unconscious. It also broke the fuel line where it attached to the engine, and the fuel was spraying on the hot exhaust crossover pipe. It pumped fuel into the fire until it emptied the tank (about 10 gallons total). He was pretty crispy when the paramedics got him out. You do not want to experience this or put your family through this.

If you can't light up the tires in the first three gears, you need more power.
If you can light up the tires in the first three gears, you need better tires.
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post #27 of 34 Old 02-23-2019, 04:18 PM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Subbing this thread for the good info.

1985 S10 2.8
2010 Cobalt SS
1972 Honda CB100
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post #28 of 34 Old 02-23-2019, 05:05 PM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Good to see you're back JK

Yowakawaka...
Some thoughts...
If you're at school, where do you plan to work on this?? In the parking lot?
I am going to assume you don't have an engine lift, yes?

This is not a quick 10 minute job. If you have never done this before and don't have adequate tools,
this will be a nightmare of epic proportions.

I'm not trying to be a dud, but take into consideration that you will be lying on your back removing
exhaust components, removing bell housing bolts, engine mounts, starter motor, etc.
Although the engine is relatively small, you won't be removing it by manually lifting it unless you have spent many years at the gym pushing iron around...

Don't get me wrong though. I pulled an engine using a come along and a tree limb. Many times.
I even changed a piston in a 56 Chevy pick up - in the parking lot of the Amarillo TX Motel 6... It can be done.

The kicker: when I read that you were going to haul this tub up three flights of stairs to your dorm room.

I also worked at a college during summer break a long time ago. Maintenance.
We hauled away 6 abandoned cars/trucks that students had started to work on but never finished. Happens every year.

I suggest that you take this home and work on it there. You will have time to make mistakes and do the work at your own pace.

And, since I have a 1990 S10 with a 3.4 Camaro engine in it, I can say that it is totally worth the effort.

If you actually get around to doing the swap, the forum members will be happy to help with suggestions and assistance.

S10 addiction:
1)'82 S10, 383, 700R4, Shorty
2) '85 S10, 3.4, 700R4 4x4 stretch cab (Redneck)
3) '90 S10 2.5, 5 speed shorty
4) '91 S10, Built 3.4, 5 speed shorty (Voodoo)
5) '92 S10, 2.5, 5 speed shorty, (Barbie)
6) '92 S10, 2.5 5 speed, Shorty
7) 1979 LUV, Buick 3.8 V6, TH 350 Shorty.
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post #29 of 34 Old 02-26-2019, 04:18 PM
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I’ve been around Max. Just not as active. Glad to talk to you guys again!

To the OP, if you have a friend with mechanical knowledge I’d definitely get them to help you if you haven’t done this before. Like Max, I Don’t want to discourage you because it’s worthwile and rewarding...but I don’t want to see you mess up your truck in the process either. For example....I spent about a month researching the EFI swap myself before attempting it...trust me...I was nervous on that one!

Another thing. Make sure you have adequate tools before starting. A set of metric sockets, short and long, a universal joint, a series of extensions. Gear wrenches are a plus. You’ll need a set of metric wrenches too.

And also you may find that removing the core support makes taking the engine out really easy. It’s not that difficult. You can take the whole engine out with trans attached directly out the front. My advice? Take lots of pictures! Easy to forget how stuff goes after you had it apart for a while.



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
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I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #30 of 34 Old 03-13-2019, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Hey what’s up guys

So the sun came out a couple of times and I was able to poke around my truck. I noticed the noise was in the back of the engine so I figured it could be the flexplate. Crawled under the truck, loosened a few bolts, and there it was. A broken flexplate! Not even a knock in the engine

I won’t be changing the engine right now. I figure it’s for a good reason. Probably better I wait anyway. I’m still planning on doing the 3.4 swap but not for a few years, hopefully. I’ll be bringing this thread back when I’m gonna do the 3.4 swap in the far future, hopefully.

I have someone to help me change the flexplate but still have an overheating problem. I’m gonna post on an old thread Where I talked about the overheating problem so hopefully it can get figured out there.

Thanks for the help everyone!!!
Chris

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post #31 of 34 Old 03-20-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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So I spent the whole day and some of this morning changing the flexplate. First things first, I’m glad I had some help with this project. The workload was insane and I ran into some problems that took some experience.

I’m going by memory so bare with me. First we had to pull out the exhaust to pull the starter and bellhousing cover. Second, we disconnected the back of the driveshaft and put tape around the bearings so they wouldnt fall off. Tom (the gentleman who helped me) said we would be crawling around look for a bunch of needles if they fell out and it wouldn’t be fun. Then we disconnected the middle part of the driveshaft (I think it was called the driveshaft bushing). First problem — When we took out the torque converter/flexplate bolts out, we find out they were loose. So we take them out and keep going. Then we were ready to disconnect the lines and transmission and pull back it back. But wait!!! There’s more! So we take off the bellhousing bolts and shifter. We get to the transmission lines and there stripping! We managed to get one off but the other we cut and used a compression fitting to reconnect them. After, I’m laying under the truck poking around and I noticed one of the four bolt from the back of the transmission is just hanging out of the hole like a tongue hanging out a dogs mouth. So I tighten it and it just keeps spinning. I go to check the other three and fund out the one above it is stripped to. So we take a trip to the hardware store and parts store to grab a tap, exhaust donuts and 2 bigger transmission bolts. So we get back, tap the holes and are ready to move on. We pull back the transmission a bit and start taking off the flexplate bolts and guess what!!! Three of the bolts my do could have licked off they were so loose. The others where really loose too. So we get the flexplate off and it’s cracked like suspected. We replaced it and put everything back together. Everything was going pretty smooth and we got everything back together late that night. We go to start it and hear a loud squealing sound. Tom immediately said “ stupid *** Chevy ********”. The starter needed more shims then before. There was only one in there before so we had to wait till the morning because the parts store was closed. Early this morning he picked me up and we took care of that. It took 5 tries but we got it to work with just a little squeak when you start it.

With all that said, I’m glad I got the help!!! I would have done so many things wrong and lost/broke parts without Tom. This was a huge learning experience! I would say I could do it by my self next time but would take way longer and I’d be asking you guys and Tom a lot of questions.

Tom races figure 8 and build race cars. He said if I want to keep learning I could hang out while he messes with his cars.

This is my experience swapping an engine that I didn’t need to swap and ended up changing a flexplate. I’ll open up this thread again when I do swap/rebuild my engine. Hopefully no time soon.

Thanks for the help people!!!
Chris
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post #32 of 34 Old 03-25-2019, 01:31 PM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Good for you man. Learning the joys of owning an old truck!!



1984 xcab s-10 3.4L GM crate engine 91 S10 TBI swap w bored intake, Edelbrock headers. 2" Rough Country Lift. Flowmaster, shift kit, e-fan.
The S-5 trailer-Half a 1st Gen LWB S-10


EFI swap https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...e-help-513616/

My build thread (3.4L)https://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/...stions-427168/
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I had to cut my nut in half .
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post #33 of 34 Old 03-25-2019, 10:49 PM
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Re: 83 S10 2.8 broken engine removal/swap, fix or replace

Gotta say... Congrats!
Very smart move locating the problem first, then going for the repair.
A lot different tune than the beginning of the thread. Maybe you'll become a fine mekanik after all.


Truck looks good from the pic, too bad you don't have the matching wheels to the front.

S10 addiction:
1)'82 S10, 383, 700R4, Shorty
2) '85 S10, 3.4, 700R4 4x4 stretch cab (Redneck)
3) '90 S10 2.5, 5 speed shorty
4) '91 S10, Built 3.4, 5 speed shorty (Voodoo)
5) '92 S10, 2.5, 5 speed shorty, (Barbie)
6) '92 S10, 2.5 5 speed, Shorty
7) 1979 LUV, Buick 3.8 V6, TH 350 Shorty.
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post #34 of 34 Old 03-27-2019, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks @jimmykicker . I bought this truck with the intentions of working on it myself. Now I know a bit more about it. It’s cool because I know what’s wrong with it and it sucks because I know what’s wrong with it. Love hate thing. I love this truck and plan on having it for a long time.
@madmax the truck came with 6 tires total. The two on the back are snow tires that were in the bed. The fronts came with 4 that were on the truck. I also got some really nice rim covers but sadly only two.
It also came with a little book with all the work that was done. The guy was the second owner and had it since around 30k miles. The photo is of the first page of the book.

It came with one rust spot in the door jam. It sat outside this winter so it has a little more now so I need to get that stuff fixed before it gets worse. I’m planning on making a thread for all that.
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