82-93 S-10 or blazer
12volts red (there will be 2) + ignition harness
Starter yellow or purple + ignition harness
Ignition pink + ignition harness
Second Ignition white + ignition harness
Accessory orange + ignition harness
Second Accessory brown + ignition harness
Power Lock lt. blue drivers kick panel
Power Unlock black/white drivers kick panel
First remove the visors from the truck.
You will need a T-15 torque wrench ( the star shaped one)
There are 3 screws holding the visor on. Once they are removed the visor will drop.
There is a small plug tucked inside the hole going into the roof.
This how-to is a combination of two how-to's by s10cyncrvr and lowriderbowtie.
I’ve been polishing wheels for a while now and have learned a lot by trying various methods. I’ve had several people ask me to write a how-to on keeping aluminum wheels looking good. Here is my procedure for polishing aftermarket aluminum wheels. These are wheels with no-clear coat. YOUR FACTORY ZQ8 WHEELS HAVE A CLEARCOAT. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM POLISH ON THESE WHEELS.
This applies to all 95 and up trucks
Tools and Parts required:
GM Hazard switch repair Kit part # 15174447
Needle Nose Pliers
The hazard Switch kit will come with a small tube of dialectric grease. Smear this on the entire thing before installation.
for anyone that is having trouble with bulb sizes
Low beam headlamp
High beam headlamp
Front turn signal
Rear turn signal
For a while I had some general colored bulbs in my cluster, you know, the crappy APC ones. The problem with these incandecent bulbs is that over time they fade...(In the case of the blue one, they faded to green, and the reds faded to pink).... So I finally got off my arse and decided to upgrade my cluster to LED's. Yes, I know, some of you say..."Why don't you go with EL Glow gauges?" Well, unfortunatly, we with the 94-97 clusters have a hard time getting the right gauges for that. (Some of you know what I'm talking about). Besides, what I ended up doing was cheaper and looks pretty decent. This how-to also applies to 98+ clusters as well with the exception of the gear indicator. So let us begin...
Comparison of both seats (sunfire seat on left):
Underside, seat track still on s10 seat:
this particular how to is designed to teach you the basics of designing an enclosure for your subwoofer. a lot has changed in the last decade and computer simulation has made things much easier to predict how a speaker will perform in a given enclosure. there are a wide variety of programs out there that come highly recommended. for this how-to, i will show you how to use my favourite free program called UniBox.
ATTENTION: In December of 2007, the forward half of the 3-link/5-link kit was redesigned and features a longer wishbone, longer lower bars, and a taller gastank crossmember. These changes make the measurements in the following how-to different than the new kit, but the basic installation is still the same.