This is an explanation of how to tilt your bed with air including pictures.
I recently had a few requests asking how I did this mod. It’s pretty simple if you have some decent type of fabrication skills and patience for measuring. Materials include: 2500 bag or equivalent, air management (valves, line, fittings, etc), steel for fab, and hardware. You can change what I’ve done here to fit your needs, but this seems to work fine for what I’m trying to do. If you have any specific questions, don’t hesitate to pm/email me. I’m sure I’ll forget a few things.
Power compression is a topic that is rarely discussed, but always important. When you hear someone call various theile/small parameters a “small signal parameter”, the implication is that with larger signals (more power), there will be a shift or change in these theile/small parameters. This is what we call power compression, and occurs in 3 potential ways.
It's been a while since I've put anything meaningful together, so it's time for another fun technical article!
Excursion is a large contributor to high output in any driver on the market. Typically, larger excursion (seen visually as how far the cone moves in and out) means more sonic output. However, with excursion come challenges.
First off, all of this information is based off of a 2002 Blazer Xtreme with 56,xxx miles. I have had problems with the outside edge of my tires feathering, and shaking on the freeway despite being in alignment. I am replacing the stock Idler arm with Moog K6187T $37.05 at O’Reillys.
Here is a step notch install done by my 2 brothers and myself. luke tore it apart, adam did all the welding, and i played boss.
Adam's welding skills are amazing. he can run a perfect bead vertical, horizontal, overhead, and anyway you can imagine. i was going to do the install myself but he insisted on doing most of the work, so i didnt argue.
well first you will need to buy parts:
radiator core support
*only available through a dealer, or junkyard.
There are plenty of times when you want to run a 12-volt automotive piece of equipment outside of a car. You could be developing an electrically run system (eg a water/air intercooler where you want to bench test the pump) or even running a car sound system component (with the price of used AM/FM CD players, taking this route can make for a very cheap workshop sound system!) Or maybe you just want to do some quick tests to confirm that something car electric works - an electric radiator fan for example.
Well, since no one has done a how-to on this subject, I figured I would since we always see this question...The following pictures were taken while we we're working on Grappler's 95 2 door Blazer (www.vettel.org/andy). We completed both his doors and my front passenger side door. (www.pghconsulting.net/teal). All told we averaged 15-20 minutes per door for this repair. The bushings on all 3 doors were cracked and at the beggining of being egged.
this is a step by step how to on converting your 98+ s-series truck to a 94-97 front end. i like it because its something you dont see too often, and will confuse people at a show. also, a good reason to do this is to rock the phantom grille that only fits these model years. but you could use any front end from that era if you wanted to.
first start with a thin grinding disk. thinner is better in this case. use saftey glasses and a hooded jacket because the sparks hit your hair/neck and stings. this way your eyes are fine and a hooded jacket protects most of your neck