Convert Manual to Power Windows
I did the conversion using the stock power regulators from another s-series truck. Some people just buy an aftermarket kit like spal or autoloc , but I didnt want the manual crank piece sticking out of my door panel (aftermarket kits come with a cover), and I think that theres less things to go wrong with the the stock regulators than the aftermarket kits. I took some pictures and I hope they are usefull for you if you are going to do the same conversion.
1. Driver and Passenger power window regulators (not just the motor, you need the whole assembly). You can get them at your local junkyard, ebay, or the dealership.
2. Switch Kit ( I used this one)
3. The conectors that go to the window regulator motors, (see pics below). You can get them for "free" at your local junk yard.
4. Rivets, and rivet gun, or 8 nuts, 8 bolts and 8 washers
5. Butt conectors, or soldering gun (for wiring everything up)
6. Micellaneous hand tools (screw drivers, drill, etc. a cut off wheel will save you a lot of time)
Once you are ready, you can start by removing the door panels: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207452
To take off the manual handle, you need push out a C clip behind the crank. I use this tool I got at the autoparts store
Without the door panels
Then, remove the plastic thing, or just move it to the side (sorry for the blurriness of the pics):
Now, you need to remove the manual regulator which is hold by four rivets. This can be a pain if you are using only a drill, but you can use a cut off wheel like I did, and just grind them down
Once you removed the rivets, just slide the regulator out of the door while pushing the window down. Be careful: you dont want to break your window.
The regulator has three rollers. They just slide out of the guides too
Door without the regulator:
Before putting the power regulators in place, it is a good idea to test them. Check if the motor is working properly and that it goes up and down without any trouble.
Put the power regulator in place. You can do this by yourself, but a set of extra hands are very useful. Lift the window high enough so you can see the guide on the window through the opening in the door for the regulator.
Grab the new regulator and slide the window rollers first in to the window guide.
Rollers in the window guide:
Then, push the regulator so you can slide the roller of the longer regulator arm into the guide that is on the door.
Roller in the door guide, driver and passenger side
Once you have the three rollers in their respective guide, you will have to move the window up or down, depending of the last position of the new regulator, so you can line up the mounting holes of the door with the ones of the regulator assembly. Now you need some big rivets to set the regulator in place. I didnt find any rivets big enough to fit in the holes, so I got some 8 grade nuts and bolts from the hardware store, and some locktite, just in case.
Drivers door with new regulator held by 8 grade nuts and bolts
Note: you can see the conectors for the motors in both pics
The power regulator is now in place. Test it again. I did it just by conecting them to a wire conected to the battery, and reversing the polarity. If everything is fine, it's time to start doing the wiring for the switches. I didnt take pics or notes of the wiring process, because it can be done of several ways, so this would be up to you to decide. The switch kit i bought (link at the top of the page) came with all the instructions that you need, and prewired for three switches. It was very easy to install; only one wire for power, one for the ground and one for ilumination (optional). I'll try to get the instructions scanned so you have an idea. Some of you might want to use the stock switches, and i thought about that too, but If i wanted to do it like that, I would have to get new power door panels, switches and may be the whole wiring too. Also, the stock swtches have the power lock button and the power mirror one, which I dont have and they would be just sitting there with no use for me. The new switches are just what i needed: no wiring mess, no rewiring the stock relay block; just plug and play.
Here is the wiring diagram: