First off, all of this information is based off of a 2002 Blazer Xtreme with 56,xxx miles. I have had problems with the outside edge of my tires feathering, and shaking on the freeway despite being in alignment. I am replacing the stock Idler arm with Moog K6187T $37.05 at O’Reillys.
Here is a step notch install done by my 2 brothers and myself. luke tore it apart, adam did all the welding, and i played boss.
Adam's welding skills are amazing. he can run a perfect bead vertical, horizontal, overhead, and anyway you can imagine. i was going to do the install myself but he insisted on doing most of the work, so i didnt argue.
first start with a thin grinding disk. thinner is better in this case. use saftey glasses and a hooded jacket because the sparks hit your hair/neck and stings. this way your eyes are fine and a hooded jacket protects most of your neck
This Article will show you one of many ways to relocate the evap / charcoal canister when cnotching or step notching a frame. In this case I have a 98 S10 and I was putting in Jason’s (suicidedoors.com) bolt in cnotch. This method only requires you to extend one line. It will only cost you around $5 and about a half hour (45 minutes if you own a Minnesota truck)
This to-do was basically done to show where the Zerk fittings are. It's a really easy project. It took me probably 30-45 minutes total, only because I had to find all of the fittings myself. Next time, I can't see it taking more than 5-10 minutes. This would be the easiest to do during an oil change. It's supposed to be done every 3000 miles anyways, and you're already under there to change the oil.
If you have a bagged s-series, you know theres that pain in the ass triangle plate on the drivers side (both sides on newer blazers) with bolts hanging down that not only hold you up from laying frame but get caught on everything and end up getting completely destroyed. Well these bolts hold your transmission crossmember in the frame, so tearing them up isnt the best idea for the integrity of your truck.
ATTENTION: In December of 2007, the forward half of the 3-link/5-link kit was redesigned and features a longer wishbone, longer lower bars, and a taller gastank crossmember. These changes make the measurements in the following how-to different than the new kit, but the basic installation is still the same.
This HowTo will basically cover the install of a Barnyard Customs upper control arm for an s10. However many of the practices are the same with other control arms from other manufactures so it may be a good reference for you.