Well, since no one has done a how-to on this subject, I figured I would since we always see this question...The following pictures were taken while we we're working on Grappler's 95 2 door Blazer (www.vettel.org/andy). We completed both his doors and my front passenger side door. (www.pghconsulting.net/teal). All told we averaged 15-20 minutes per door for this repair. The bushings on all 3 doors were cracked and at the beggining of being egged.
I got one at harbor tool and freight 8 bucks. They had it at the store in stock. I need to change my pins this weekend. They wanted over 20 at the auto store.
Door Spring Tool - GM Vehicles 87675 $15.25 Use to remove and install the door hinge springs found on late model General Motors vehicles. Makes a hard job easy. Can be used with 1/2" open end or ratcheting box wrench. Always wear eye and face protection.
Door Spring Tool - GM Vehicles 87675 $15.25 Use to remove and install the door hinge springs found on late model General Motors vehicles. Makes a hard job easy. Can be used with 1/2" open end or ratcheting box wrench. Always wear eye and face protection.
I have repaired egged hinges by using J.B. weld. I simply jb welded the new bushing into the hinge. The jb takes up space between egged hinge and bushing. Glue together, insert pin to keep straight, Let it dry of course a couple days then put door back on. Of course welding and drilling is much better but takes much more time and not everyone has a welder. I have done this on a couple cars and it seemed to work great but sold them before I could see if it lasted or not.
I have a hard time getting the pin all of the way in, are you sure it's alright to just hammer it in? I don't want to f' up the bushing by hammering too hard...
and a warning to everone, make sure you really really be careful taking the door off, since the top of the fender really f'es up the paint. Happened to me, and the tape didn't really help. The tape actually left residue! Damn masking tape. So, becareful and don't be stupid like I was.
How about a part number for the pin and bushing. I bought one from NAPA, but the SOB is four foot longer than need be. If I were to install the damn thing, it would stick out above the fender!
hey whats up? my name is derrick. i have a 96 chevy s-10. i am getting a noise out of my drivers door when i open and close it. i have lubed the door many times. does that mean the i need a new door pin or some kind of adjustment?
Why not ever give your local Chevy/GM dealership parts dept. a shot? Most of the time you will find that the parts are easier to install and priced competitive. Even if the cost is more, you can get the advice you need to do the job right the first time. Just a thought.
I got my pins from Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto, however I bet you can find them at your local autoparts store with the "Help!" parts, that is the brand that came for me.
Does anyone know where the sensor is located that tells the truck that the driver door is closed. Mine is not working. The chime goes off when the key is simply in the ignition, even if the door is closed. When I turn the key to ACC to listen to the radio if I am just sitting in the truck, the chime continues to sound. VERY ANNOYING! Also, the lights do not come on when the door is opened. Actually I think the problem is with both doors. It does not matter which position the dome override is in. (OUT and the interior lights stay on continuously. IN and they never come on) Any assistance on this would be appreciated.
2001 LE
yea, so it feels like my door is about to fall off when im driving. rattles like a mofo. i look at the hinge, and it looks like its sperating from the body. heres what im talkin about:
looks like mine, but not my pic. i for sure need new bushings and pins. how big of an issue is this? should there be a bead of weld put on there? any help would be great.
As far as I know the body section of hinges are spot welded on.
Top Down Solutions has a few tools avail that help knocking the
bushings and pins in and out..Here's one for example. TDS
is for mid gen Camaros and Firebirds, but some parts from
these and S-Trucks match up.
The hinge in the picture looks normal. The small gap at the top is just where the factory seam sealer has deteriorated(sp). You can check your pins by opening the door about a quarter of the way and lifting on the back end. Any play in the bushing will be evident. If it rattles while driving check the door latch itself or striker for wear. Worn weatherstrips may also be the problem.
o, its surely the bushings and pins. you can hear the door clunk up and down when i lift it. ill do that first, then if its still there, ill try one of you other suggestions. thanks guys.
i got my pin and bushing from auto zone for under 6$ two man job def, as for the spring in the door what i did was put it in a vice, and wired it with some i think 10g wire to keep it compressed just be careful i got a black and blue the size of a dam gatorade lid,
Has anyone tried to replace one pin at a time (rather than doing top and bottom together by taking the door off)?
There'd be less room to work, but the weight of the door would be supported by the unworked-on hinge (the helper would just have to keep it from tipping) . . . .
:dunno:
BTW, I just called my local GMC dealer - they want $250 (estimated) to replace a pair of pins and bushings on ONE door!
ok, my problem is when I changed my pins and bushings it made my door drop about 1 to 2 inches when I open it. And that is twice as much as it was before I changed the pins and bushings.
the truck is an 88' and it is bagged and body dropped. if it is because of the body drop what can I do about it.
Or if I bought a suicide door hinge kit would I be able to correct it that?
any help would be greatly appriciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Someone mentioned egg shape hinges. Mine is beyond egg shape. If GM would have used bolt-in hinges instead of spot-weld hinges it would have been gravy. It appears my truck was hit in the drivers door which damage the hinge, the door wa repaired and the hinge was so called repaired.
I'm torn between replacing the hinge or welding and redrilling for new pins.
For those who might say hinge removal is possible, I already removed a door hinge from the salvage yard.
The first hinge I tried to removed I completely detroyed the hinge, the second hinge is what you're looking at. If I had to do it again I would drill of the 4 spot welds to make removal a lot easier.
I realize this is a little drastic but once a take pics of my current hinge you'll see what I'm dealing with.
(1) I've been reading as many places I can find about this repair and I'm concerned that hammering on the existing bushings to get them out will damage the hinge. Is there any trick to this I should know?
(2) Does anyone know the answer to the earlier question about replacing one hinge at a time? Looks to me like my lower hinge is OK and only the top one needs a new bushing. Anyone have any insight on the feasibility of replacing only the top one?