whats the best

TnHombre · 05-03-2006, 11:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TnHombre

oh [size="5"]
ISNT IT PAST YOUR BED TIME?!??

IT IS MINE!!! goodnight...

TnHombre · 05-03-2006, 11:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 95projectS-Dime

Who is PEDRO????

TnHombre · 05-03-2006, 11:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 95projectS-Dime

Hey dude , the clear coat is still there , just THINNER than before you all got ahold of it ( ) . Ask any REAL PRO what you are doing that poor clear coat , not your half assing boss.........

i couldnt have said it any better...

95projectS-Dime · 05-03-2006, 11:10 PM

That is just how I see it and how I was allways taught ....

LikeaRock · 05-03-2006, 11:14 PM

Just posted this thread on Detail City, can't wait to see if anyone else chmes in!

***raider600*** · 05-03-2006, 11:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by LikeaRock

HA! Someone knocking my work in a serious matter, can't remember the last time that happened

Point is, your pad SHOULDNT get dirty while polishing. It's totally unavoidable to polish a whole car and not get SOME dirt, but if you have to stop and clean the pad or clean it after every detail then you're not doing things properly.
You use products with SILICONE, aka FILLERS! FILLERS fade away over time and the car is left in the exact same condition or worse than when it was "detailed". I DON'T hide imperfections, I remove them by using a foam or wool pad, compound and polish. Swirls from a buffer are one thing, swirls from basic car washing are another. If you're talking about car wash swirls/scratches, you can use a mild polish and a polishing pad and remove most of them, compounding will get rid of a lot more. It is COMPLETELY IMPOSSIBLE to fully remove cobwebs/swirls in your paint, there will always be some left behind.
So even though YOU'RE not removing a MICROSCOPIC layer of clear, you're really not doing anything at all by hiding stuff...
When it rains and I go back and wash one of my family's vehicles or a neighbors, it still looks thesame. No fillers here!

I still don't see why you brought up the idea of using a clay bar to remove swirls/scratches, that's what's confusing me...

Give Eric or Tim at Golden Gate North Distributing a call, see if they have anything bad to say about my work. Call my bosses. I'll ask my neighors if I can give out their numbers for references. I do good work, I take pride in what I do and I make every second of my time count. I'm not just some 18 year old who thinks he can wash, wax, and shampoo carpets in a car. I know a hell of a lot more than most people think, and when they find that out they respect that. A lot of detailers have HUGE ego's, I ain't one of em and don't plan on becoming one either.

Quick clay on the hood/deck lid of this car, 2-step polish and Poorboy's Natty's Blue paste wax. 2.5 hrs work time...

we usually wash the cars before we polish them. for your stated reason. but when we polish for hours they still get gunky. im not knocking your work by anymeans. but i dont see the "extreme" case im talking about here. im not saying your 18 and im not 18 either. i also take pride in my work. but everyone has their own way. i just dont think clay is the best to go.
the spray paint on the kids s10 clay wont get that out. i know your not retard and you know this.
and we dont use compound with silicone. never said that. i know its a filler and its a short cut. thats where most the swirls come from anyway.
when i say clay is pointless. its pointless to us. cuz we dont get decent paint 70-80% of the time. know what i mean?

TnHombre · 05-03-2006, 11:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 95projectS-Dime

That is just how I see it and how I was allways taught ....

and dont forget he said this.....hey it could be worse i guess...

Quote: Originally Posted by raider600

and besides 3000RPM isnt "highspeed" i would think the 6000RPM one we have is "highspeed"

TnHombre · 05-03-2006, 11:17 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by raider600

cuz we dont get decent paint 70-80% of the time. know what i mean?

are you saying you get all the crap cars?

LikeaRock · 05-03-2006, 11:18 PM

I wash the cars too before I work on them. But with all the fallout and other contaminates that get on the paint you will end up picking up a lot of it with the pad. NOT a good thing reguardless of the condition of the paint...

***raider600*** · 05-03-2006, 11:20 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TnHombre

and dont forget he said this.....hey it could be worse i guess...

ya. this is how i was taught. we dont use clay really. with 2 guys working on 5 cars that are for a dealer we dont have 4 hours to spend on one car. when we get retail we do take more time to make it look good for the customer

***raider600*** · 05-03-2006, 11:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TnHombre

are you saying you get all the crap cars?

yes i am...seriously. auction cars, dealer cars that hav all been repainted and theres overspray and chipped paint. haha thats why i hate used cars.

***raider600*** · 05-03-2006, 11:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by LikeaRock

I wash the cars too before I work on them. But with all the fallout and other contaminates that get on the paint you will end up picking up a lot of it with the pad. NOT a good thing reguardless of the condition of the paint...

but when we buff or polish. we will use a wool polish pad. then wash it, then buff it with a foam pad and wash again. then wax. thats usually the steps. i agree

LikeaRock · 05-03-2006, 11:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by raider600

but when we buff or polish. we will use a wool polish pad. then wash it, then buff it with a foam pad and wash again. then wax. thats usually the steps. i agree

I occasionally use my wool pads too...

Doesn't matter if you wash the pad after you detail a car, you're still using a dirty pad on the surface of the paint, causing more swirls...
Ok...ok...My point...
All the fallout and other surface contamination is stuck on the paint. Washing doesn't remove it...So if all that dirt is trapped in the pad while you're working, what do you think it's doing to the paint?

S10mafia50 · 05-03-2006, 11:29 PM

I think both will take off the clear coat if you don't use them properly. For the less experienced person, and for clearcoat vehicles, I have always been told that buffing is best. For the enamel vehicles or very experienced people, I have been told clay barring is the best. I always see great results from buffing, just don't let it heat up.
Andrew

***raider600*** · 05-03-2006, 11:32 PM

. spraying off the excess compound will help get most of the crap off. then go over it again. getting what swirls you made out! haha
ill show you some work. of a dodge ram where the hood was just thrashed to hell. i buffed on it and brough it back to life.
im just saying claybarring is pointless on paint that is real bad. the door picture i saw wasnt really bad. thats like a good day for me

LikeaRock · 05-03-2006, 11:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by raider600

. spraying off the excess compound will help get most of the crap off. then go over it again. getting what swirls you made out! haha
ill show you some work. of a dodge ram where the hood was just thrashed to hell. i buffed on it and brough it back to life.
im just saying claybarring is pointless on paint that is real bad. the door picture i saw wasnt really bad. thats like a good day for me

Ever think of what's left on the paint that the compound didn't pick up?

TnHombre · 05-03-2006, 11:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by raider600

yes i am...seriously. auction cars, dealer cars that hav all been repainted and theres overspray and chipped paint. haha thats why i hate used cars.

oh in that case yea it dont matter.... burn away...

***raider600*** · 05-03-2006, 11:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by LikeaRock

Ever think of what's left on the paint that the compound didn't pick up?

no. cuz with the water and compound and using the buffer it all flys off. haha

LikeaRock · 05-03-2006, 11:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by raider600

no. cuz with the water and compound and using the buffer it all flys off. haha

Ok...I'm done in this thread now...I've got to clean up anyway

***raider600*** · 05-03-2006, 11:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TnHombre

oh in that case yea it dont matter.... burn away...

ya dude junk. but i usually buff my truck. granted its night and the quality isnt that great. but i buffed it with water and Pro Gold compound. with a foam pad. got out all the water spots and quit a few scratches

TnHombre · 05-03-2006, 11:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by raider600

ya dude junk.

PM me if youd like good advise...

***raider600*** · 05-03-2006, 11:54 PM

i cant help the cars we get in are already messed up. haha. we just get them.
what i get from buffing is it heats up the paint and fills in scratches. ya it sounds bad. but we also buff on paint that has been sprayed improperly to remove fish eyes and blemishes from a half ass paintjob

this has turned into a topic way off from the original post. but ill post some pictures of the extreme that we all love

TnHombre · 05-04-2006, 12:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 00xtreme85

well i'm starting to get serious ..................... what are some good brands that i should look for. ............and i need to get a good wax and spray detailer.

to get back on subject i'll start.....

i would recomend these two products for ya.....

1) collinite 476S is a paste wax that will bead like youve never seen before....if you buy this item and you do not like it I WILL REFUND YOUR purchase price that you paid for it....

#476s Super Doublecoat Auto Wax
about $14.oo a CAN

One of the finest paste type auto waxes available. Easy to apply and absolutely DETERGENT PROOF. Collinite Super Doublecoat is guaranteed to outlast and outshine any other competitive auto wax, polish or protective coating under any conceivable condition. That's why it's called the PERMANENT AUTO WAX. No hard rubbing or buffing... and no special applicator is required. Collinite Super Doublecoat will last a full year, even under adverse conditions. Clear coat safe.

^^^^^ thats a quote from the maker...

2) Optimum spray wax as a spray detailer
^^^^ gallons are about $30 a GAL.

Optimum Spray Wax is the only spray-on car wax that provides the durability of a paste wax, plus long-lasting UV protection. High-grade Carnauba wax, silicone sealants and UV inhibitors protect the paint from sun damage and environmental elements for up to 5 months!

Fast Application: Takes less than 15 minutes to wax the whole car. No buffing required. No residues to remove.

Durable: One application lasts up to 5 months!

UV Protection: Helps reduce fading.

Non-Abrasive: Will not create swirl marks like traditional car wax/polishes.

Environmentally Friendly: Contains no harsh chemicals or VOC's.

* Optimum Car Wax was applied to automotive coated panels along with two major leading spray car wax brands. These panels were left on an exterior surface at a 45 degree angle toward south along with an untreated control panel for five months.

During this period of time, the panels were washed with car wash soaps on a weekly basis. While the panels treated with the competitive products showed no water beading after just one wash, the panels with optimum Car Wax with UV showed visible water beading after 22 washes.

* (Study conducted by Optimum Polymer Technologies, Memphis, TN 7/14/02)

^^^ thats also a quote from there maker...

and for a clay bar ...

CLICK HERE!!
but i can get it for about 50% off that price if you want one...

05-03-2006, 11:05 PM	#51
TnHombre UNBANNED BITCHES!! Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2,007 Location: fayetteville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by TnHombre oh [size="5"] ISNT IT PAST YOUR BED TIME?!?? IT IS MINE!!! goodnight...
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05-03-2006, 11:06 PM	#52
TnHombre UNBANNED BITCHES!! Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2,007 Location: fayetteville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by 95projectS-Dime Who is PEDRO????
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05-03-2006, 11:07 PM	#53
TnHombre UNBANNED BITCHES!! Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2,007 Location: fayetteville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by 95projectS-Dime Hey dude , the clear coat is still there , just THINNER than before you all got ahold of it ( ) . Ask any REAL PRO what you are doing that poor clear coat , not your half assing boss......... i couldnt have said it any better... Last edited by TnHombre : 05-03-2006 at 11:13 PM.
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05-03-2006, 11:10 PM	#54
95projectS-Dime Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,438 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best That is just how I see it and how I was allways taught ....
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05-03-2006, 11:14 PM	#55
LikeaRock Rustbucket Club Age: 22 Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 772 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Just posted this thread on Detail City, can't wait to see if anyone else chmes in!
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05-03-2006, 11:14 PM	#56
*raider600* Hey kids! Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 3,177 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by LikeaRock HA! Someone knocking my work in a serious matter, can't remember the last time that happened Point is, your pad SHOULDNT get dirty while polishing. It's totally unavoidable to polish a whole car and not get SOME dirt, but if you have to stop and clean the pad or clean it after every detail then you're not doing things properly. You use products with SILICONE, aka FILLERS! FILLERS fade away over time and the car is left in the exact same condition or worse than when it was "detailed". I DON'T hide imperfections, I remove them by using a foam or wool pad, compound and polish. Swirls from a buffer are one thing, swirls from basic car washing are another. If you're talking about car wash swirls/scratches, you can use a mild polish and a polishing pad and remove most of them, compounding will get rid of a lot more. It is COMPLETELY IMPOSSIBLE to fully remove cobwebs/swirls in your paint, there will always be some left behind. So even though YOU'RE not removing a MICROSCOPIC layer of clear, you're really not doing anything at all by hiding stuff... When it rains and I go back and wash one of my family's vehicles or a neighbors, it still looks thesame. No fillers here! I still don't see why you brought up the idea of using a clay bar to remove swirls/scratches, that's what's confusing me... Give Eric or Tim at Golden Gate North Distributing a call, see if they have anything bad to say about my work. Call my bosses. I'll ask my neighors if I can give out their numbers for references. I do good work, I take pride in what I do and I make every second of my time count. I'm not just some 18 year old who thinks he can wash, wax, and shampoo carpets in a car. I know a hell of a lot more than most people think, and when they find that out they respect that. A lot of detailers have HUGE ego's, I ain't one of em and don't plan on becoming one either. Quick clay on the hood/deck lid of this car, 2-step polish and Poorboy's Natty's Blue paste wax. 2.5 hrs work time... we usually wash the cars before we polish them. for your stated reason. but when we polish for hours they still get gunky. im not knocking your work by anymeans. but i dont see the "extreme" case im talking about here. im not saying your 18 and im not 18 either. i also take pride in my work. but everyone has their own way. i just dont think clay is the best to go. the spray paint on the kids s10 clay wont get that out. i know your not retard and you know this. and we dont use compound with silicone. never said that. i know its a filler and its a short cut. thats where most the swirls come from anyway. when i say clay is pointless. its pointless to us. cuz we dont get decent paint 70-80% of the time. know what i mean?
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:16 PM	#57
TnHombre UNBANNED BITCHES!! Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2,007 Location: fayetteville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by 95projectS-Dime That is just how I see it and how I was allways taught .... and dont forget he said this.....hey it could be worse i guess... Quote: Originally Posted by raider600 and besides 3000RPM isnt "highspeed" i would think the 6000RPM one we have is "highspeed"
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05-03-2006, 11:17 PM	#58
TnHombre UNBANNED BITCHES!! Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2,007 Location: fayetteville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by raider600 cuz we dont get decent paint 70-80% of the time. know what i mean? are you saying you get all the crap cars?
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05-03-2006, 11:18 PM	#59
LikeaRock Rustbucket Club Age: 22 Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 772 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best I wash the cars too before I work on them. But with all the fallout and other contaminates that get on the paint you will end up picking up a lot of it with the pad. NOT a good thing reguardless of the condition of the paint...
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05-03-2006, 11:20 PM	#60
*raider600* Hey kids! Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 3,177 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by TnHombre and dont forget he said this.....hey it could be worse i guess... ya. this is how i was taught. we dont use clay really. with 2 guys working on 5 cars that are for a dealer we dont have 4 hours to spend on one car. when we get retail we do take more time to make it look good for the customer
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:21 PM	#61
*raider600* Hey kids! Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 3,177 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by TnHombre are you saying you get all the crap cars? yes i am...seriously. auction cars, dealer cars that hav all been repainted and theres overspray and chipped paint. haha thats why i hate used cars.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:22 PM	#62
*raider600* Hey kids! Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 3,177 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by LikeaRock I wash the cars too before I work on them. But with all the fallout and other contaminates that get on the paint you will end up picking up a lot of it with the pad. NOT a good thing reguardless of the condition of the paint... but when we buff or polish. we will use a wool polish pad. then wash it, then buff it with a foam pad and wash again. then wax. thats usually the steps. i agree
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:24 PM	#63
LikeaRock Rustbucket Club Age: 22 Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 772 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by raider600 but when we buff or polish. we will use a wool polish pad. then wash it, then buff it with a foam pad and wash again. then wax. thats usually the steps. i agree I occasionally use my wool pads too... Doesn't matter if you wash the pad after you detail a car, you're still using a dirty pad on the surface of the paint, causing more swirls... Ok...ok...My point... All the fallout and other surface contamination is stuck on the paint. Washing doesn't remove it...So if all that dirt is trapped in the pad while you're working, what do you think it's doing to the paint? Last edited by LikeaRock : 05-03-2006 at 11:27 PM.
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05-03-2006, 11:29 PM	#64
S10mafia50 Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 63 Location: Evansville(westside) IN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best I think both will take off the clear coat if you don't use them properly. For the less experienced person, and for clearcoat vehicles, I have always been told that buffing is best. For the enamel vehicles or very experienced people, I have been told clay barring is the best. I always see great results from buffing, just don't let it heat up. Andrew
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:32 PM	#65
*raider600* Hey kids! Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 3,177 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best . spraying off the excess compound will help get most of the crap off. then go over it again. getting what swirls you made out! haha ill show you some work. of a dodge ram where the hood was just thrashed to hell. i buffed on it and brough it back to life. im just saying claybarring is pointless on paint that is real bad. the door picture i saw wasnt really bad. thats like a good day for me
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:34 PM	#66
LikeaRock Rustbucket Club Age: 22 Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 772 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by raider600 . spraying off the excess compound will help get most of the crap off. then go over it again. getting what swirls you made out! haha ill show you some work. of a dodge ram where the hood was just thrashed to hell. i buffed on it and brough it back to life. im just saying claybarring is pointless on paint that is real bad. the door picture i saw wasnt really bad. thats like a good day for me Ever think of what's left on the paint that the compound didn't pick up?
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:35 PM	#67
TnHombre UNBANNED BITCHES!! Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2,007 Location: fayetteville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by raider600 yes i am...seriously. auction cars, dealer cars that hav all been repainted and theres overspray and chipped paint. haha thats why i hate used cars. oh in that case yea it dont matter.... burn away...
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:36 PM	#68
*raider600* Hey kids! Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 3,177 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by LikeaRock Ever think of what's left on the paint that the compound didn't pick up? no. cuz with the water and compound and using the buffer it all flys off. haha
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:38 PM	#69
LikeaRock Rustbucket Club Age: 22 Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 772 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by raider600 no. cuz with the water and compound and using the buffer it all flys off. haha Ok...I'm done in this thread now...I've got to clean up anyway
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:39 PM	#70
*raider600* Hey kids! Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 3,177 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by TnHombre oh in that case yea it dont matter.... burn away... ya dude junk. but i usually buff my truck. granted its night and the quality isnt that great. but i buffed it with water and Pro Gold compound. with a foam pad. got out all the water spots and quit a few scratches
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:48 PM	#71
TnHombre UNBANNED BITCHES!! Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2,007 Location: fayetteville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by raider600 ya dude junk. PM me if youd like good advise...
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2006, 11:54 PM	#72
*raider600* Hey kids! Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 3,177 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best i cant help the cars we get in are already messed up. haha. we just get them. what i get from buffing is it heats up the paint and fills in scratches. ya it sounds bad. but we also buff on paint that has been sprayed improperly to remove fish eyes and blemishes from a half ass paintjob this has turned into a topic way off from the original post. but ill post some pictures of the extreme that we all love Last edited by raider600 : 05-04-2006 at 12:07 AM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-04-2006, 12:38 AM	#73
TnHombre UNBANNED BITCHES!! Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2,007 Location: fayetteville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: whats the best Quote: Originally Posted by 00xtreme85 well i'm starting to get serious ..................... what are some good brands that i should look for. ............and i need to get a good wax and spray detailer. to get back on subject i'll start..... i would recomend these two products for ya..... 1) collinite 476S is a paste wax that will bead like youve never seen before....if you buy this item and you do not like it I WILL REFUND YOUR purchase price that you paid for it.... #476s Super Doublecoat Auto Wax about $14.oo a CAN One of the finest paste type auto waxes available. Easy to apply and absolutely DETERGENT PROOF. Collinite Super Doublecoat is guaranteed to outlast and outshine any other competitive auto wax, polish or protective coating under any conceivable condition. That's why it's called the PERMANENT AUTO WAX. No hard rubbing or buffing... and no special applicator is required. Collinite Super Doublecoat will last a full year, even under adverse conditions. Clear coat safe. ^^^^^ thats a quote from the maker... 2) Optimum spray wax as a spray detailer ^^^^ gallons are about $30 a GAL. Optimum Spray Wax is the only spray-on car wax that provides the durability of a paste wax, plus long-lasting UV protection. High-grade Carnauba wax, silicone sealants and UV inhibitors protect the paint from sun damage and environmental elements for up to 5 months! Fast Application: Takes less than 15 minutes to wax the whole car. No buffing required. No residues to remove. Durable: One application lasts up to 5 months! UV Protection: Helps reduce fading. Non-Abrasive: Will not create swirl marks like traditional car wax/polishes. Environmentally Friendly: Contains no harsh chemicals or VOC's. * Optimum Car Wax was applied to automotive coated panels along with two major leading spray car wax brands. These panels were left on an exterior surface at a 45 degree angle toward south along with an untreated control panel for five months. During this period of time, the panels were washed with car wash soaps on a weekly basis. While the panels treated with the competitive products showed no water beading after just one wash, the panels with optimum Car Wax with UV showed visible water beading after 22 washes. * (Study conducted by Optimum Polymer Technologies, Memphis, TN 7/14/02) ^^^ thats also a quote from there maker... and for a clay bar ... CLICK HERE!! but i can get it for about 50% off that price if you want one... Last edited by TnHombre : 05-04-2006 at 12:45 AM.
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