what type of buffer should i buy?

robbiegtp · 10-16-2007, 08:27 PM

I want to start practicing to learn how to buff my own car. Whats a good buffer to buy? Also What pads do i buy isnt there different pads to take the swirl marks out after doing the first buff? thanks for the help

Tex Star Detail · 10-17-2007, 11:13 PM

I would start with a PC (Porter Cable 7336 / 7424) With Lake Country Pads.
A PC is very user friendly, has an easy learning curve, and 99% will not damage your paint. A rotary is more advanced, and I recommend you PRACTICE on junk fenders and hoods before turning loose on any vehicle. You can burn paint in a couple of seconds if not used properly. It takes a while to master the rotary buffer.

www.autogeek.net

Check them out

Vader · 11-16-2007, 08:36 PM

UDM. Basically an upgraded version of the porter cable.

hollywood · 11-17-2007, 09:15 PM

I have been detailing and buffing cars for the past 7 years. I recommend using a dewalt buffer with adjustable RPMs. Thats what I have always used and they have always worked great for me. This is also the type of buffer that I started practicing with.
As for the pads to use, if you are going to cut into your paint, you will want to use a wool pad. I also recommend you use Mcgwires Diamond Cut 2.0.
To get the swirls out, you can use any type of foam pad, with a swirl free cream. I believe that Mcgwires makes one that works really well.
Let me know if you have any issues, I will be happy to talk you thru it if I can.

chips · 11-18-2007, 09:52 PM

I've always used the dewalt buffer too. Normally I use a foam pad by automagic. Just take your time and you'll get a feel for it after awhile.

wagonproject · 11-19-2007, 09:18 PM

Yeah if your just starting and on your car, go with the Porter Cable7424. I started with that a few years ago, really nice unit. Now I use a rotary at work (not sure who makes it, got a couple) with wool pads to buff and a foam pad to throw some glaze on the cars.

Tex Star Detail · 11-20-2007, 09:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Vader

UDM. Basically an upgraded version of the porter cable.

I'd wait to buy the UDM. It was a machine that was rushed to market without the bugs worked out.
Cord to short
faulty power switch
Unbelievable vibrations
and even seen a shaft snap at the counterweight.

too many problems with such a new machine.

I would wait at least a year to purchase to make sure the bugs are gone.
Though, it does offer more power, but I'd like a reliable machine. I wouldn't want to be detailing a customers' new porsche and the machine come apart on the hood. leave some nice scratches.

I'm not knocking the machine, as I have used it and tested it to several other machines.

ChrisNJ · 11-24-2007, 09:20 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tex Star Detail

I'd wait to buy the UDM. It was a machine that was rushed to market without the bugs worked out.
Cord to short
faulty power switch
Unbelievable vibrations
and even seen a shaft snap at the counterweight.

too many problems with such a new machine.

They fixed the power switch. All machines come w/ the new switch now. Mine has the new switch and is perfect.
The cord argument doesnt make sense to me. Find me someone who uses the machine w/o an extension cord.
And I guess #3 is personal opinion, but I think its significantly smoother than the pc.
#4, I havent heard of yet.

Anyway, I know these guys were running 18% off for the holiday which would make a killer deal.
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/bupaac.html

Tex Star Detail · 11-24-2007, 12:56 PM

Actually, some machines vibrated bad. Not all of them. Which was a built in defect. A lot of owners have machines with motor problems, such as burnt out brushes.

The cord- Wouldn't be a problem for me, as I throw the cord over my shoulder. It wasn't meant to say no one uses an extension cord, it was meant to mean, when you plug in the machine to an extension cord, you'll have the plug and extension cord rubbing on the paint. (where the 2 connect.)

The switch- It should have NEVER been released like that. It is a safety issue. Good thing it was replaced, but still, shouldn't have been rushed into production for profits sake.

here are a few quotes from owners that had them and returned them....a few times...

"Well the UDM Started doing funky things. Surges in speed to almost no speed and a burning smell. Called and talked to David. He sent a new one out right a way. Good customer service. I was a little suprised when he said Ver.2 would not be out till March 2008. With the switch being a safety issue, I would have thought they would have upgraded the UDM right away. He also said very few have been returned for problems. All in All things are OK. This makes the second one I had to send back. This one has lasted since 7/27/07.......Life goes on. Glad I have a backup."
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Same thing happened to me and some others that I know about. Carbon Blue put a vid up showing what his was doing. This was your second one to return, HMMMM.

Keep up the great customer service, because I will remain a customer based off of that alone impressed. The features of the UDM are also great but the longevity of the UDM hardware, however, is not really impressing me right now. I hope that these issues are addressed and fixed in Ver. 2.

I just got my second one, but I do not think that I will have enough time to break it in before it starts getting real cold.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Broken shaft at the counter weight

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
mine 2. SMOKED THE BRUSH .....Only on 1 side....Motor got louder and started to slow down then started to shut off... Looks like the armatuer eating the brushes for lunch... mfg 5/1/07.... i wasnt even half way done on my 4 car with this unit.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well upon its SECOND use, I was detailing a friends car and while first applying some polish my UDM crapped out on me within 5 minutes of first turning it on. I first started noticing symptoms as if the UDM were powered by weak batteries. It would seem that at some points the motor sounded like it was losing power. Sure enough a few minutes later the machine turned off completely and would not turn on. I would have to somewhat shake it or tap it on the back and it would turn on again but would turn off by itself shorty after. Mabey I should have just stuck with my porter cable instead
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just got a new UDM from autopia.

Having a weird time with the speed dial.

The motor doesn't start untill you turn it to 3! I have done a little video to show, easier then explaining.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
my first udm broke and AG replaced it. The worst part is the replacement they sent me is now acting very funny, vibrating really bad.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Those are to name a few. It's sad actually, I really wanted to purchase one. It does have a lot more power than the PC, but the trade off is not worth it. If you got one without problems, good for you, as many wish they could say the same. I hope yours does not act up like mentioned above.

Like I said earlier, it was rushed to production/the market too fast. Seemed the Quality Control was loose as well. Hopefully down the road, they can get all the bugs worked out as it "can be" a good machine. It looks though, that the FLEX is giving it a run for the money.

hds1o · 12-21-2007, 12:43 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by hollywood

I have been detailing and buffing cars for the past 7 years. I recommend using a dewalt buffer with adjustable RPMs. Thats what I have always used and they have always worked great for me. This is also the type of buffer that I started practicing with.
As for the pads to use, if you are going to cut into your paint, you will want to use a wool pad. I also recommend you use Mcgwires Diamond Cut 2.0.
To get the swirls out, you can use any type of foam pad, with a swirl free cream. I believe that Mcgwires makes one that works really well.
Let me know if you have any issues, I will be happy to talk you thru it if I can.

Dewalt ftw! I detailed for 3 years and beat the hell out of that thing and it still works great! Im not using it 40 hours a week anymore, but it still does side jobs.

chevy power · 12-22-2007, 10:09 PM

I bought a harbor freight buffer. Two year warranty for 38$. I have used it a good bit, I wanted the dewalt but it is a lot more money. If I was using it anymore than I do I would get the dewalt. It isnt as hard as everyone says it is to get great results. I had some advice from some of the guys at the autobody supply store where I bought the compound and pads.

TOMMYGUNZZSS · 12-24-2007, 01:13 PM

Where can I get an orbital that uses pads instead of bonnets? I had one at my use when I was detailing but since I've moved on I really want one just to wax with pretty much.

gbones · 12-30-2007, 10:00 PM

i say PORTER CABLE. ive buffed a sh!t load of boats with PC, but i always wax my trucks by hand. boats are big and take a long time, your S-10 is small and doesnt take that long to wax by hand.

VT1992S10 · 12-31-2007, 04:42 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by hds1o

Dewalt ftw! I detailed for 3 years and beat the hell out of that thing and it still works great! Im not using it 40 hours a week anymore, but it still does side jobs.

dewalt variable speed ftw, we used 3m products pads and compunds/polish

chevy power · 01-03-2008, 04:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gbones

i say PORTER CABLE. ive buffed a sh!t load of boats with PC, but i always wax my trucks by hand. boats are big and take a long time, your S-10 is small and doesnt take that long to wax by hand.

Most dont use a machine to apply wax, they use the machine to apply different compounds.

TwistedMoPres. · 01-04-2008, 12:22 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by VT1992S10

dewalt variable speed ftw, we used 3m products pads and compunds/polish

+1

MeltingPlastic · 01-09-2008, 09:13 AM

i have a Makita 9227 variable speed buffer. I've used it a few times to cut and polish my truck and i like it so far. I still need to master it though, the first time i used it cause hazing and it too me FOREVER to get it out by hand, the last few times its come out great though. I def use wool to start and then foam to finish. I've also looked into getting the items toad has in his restoring faded paint pics.

10-16-2007, 08:27 PM	#1
robbiegtp Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 209 Location: User is: OffLine	what type of buffer should i buy? I want to start practicing to learn how to buff my own car. Whats a good buffer to buy? Also What pads do i buy isnt there different pads to take the swirl marks out after doing the first buff? thanks for the help
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-17-2007, 11:13 PM	#2
Tex Star Detail will detail for food Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 509 Location: Georgetown, Texas User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? I would start with a PC (Porter Cable 7336 / 7424) With Lake Country Pads. A PC is very user friendly, has an easy learning curve, and 99% will not damage your paint. A rotary is more advanced, and I recommend you PRACTICE on junk fenders and hoods before turning loose on any vehicle. You can burn paint in a couple of seconds if not used properly. It takes a while to master the rotary buffer. www.autogeek.net Check them out
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-16-2007, 08:36 PM	#3
Vader Registered User Age: 31 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 135 Location: Windsor, Ontario Canada User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? UDM. Basically an upgraded version of the porter cable.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-17-2007, 09:15 PM	#4
hollywood Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 103 Location: Dalton, Ga User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? I have been detailing and buffing cars for the past 7 years. I recommend using a dewalt buffer with adjustable RPMs. Thats what I have always used and they have always worked great for me. This is also the type of buffer that I started practicing with. As for the pads to use, if you are going to cut into your paint, you will want to use a wool pad. I also recommend you use Mcgwires Diamond Cut 2.0. To get the swirls out, you can use any type of foam pad, with a swirl free cream. I believe that Mcgwires makes one that works really well. Let me know if you have any issues, I will be happy to talk you thru it if I can.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-18-2007, 09:52 PM	#5
chips Registered User Age: 20 Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 527 Location: Michigan User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? I've always used the dewalt buffer too. Normally I use a foam pad by automagic. Just take your time and you'll get a feel for it after awhile.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-19-2007, 09:18 PM	#6
wagonproject Short Bus Anonymous Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 6,385 Location: Kalamazoo, MI User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Yeah if your just starting and on your car, go with the Porter Cable7424. I started with that a few years ago, really nice unit. Now I use a rotary at work (not sure who makes it, got a couple) with wool pads to buff and a foam pad to throw some glaze on the cars.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-20-2007, 09:31 PM	#7
Tex Star Detail will detail for food Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 509 Location: Georgetown, Texas User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Quote: Originally Posted by Vader UDM. Basically an upgraded version of the porter cable. I'd wait to buy the UDM. It was a machine that was rushed to market without the bugs worked out. Cord to short faulty power switch Unbelievable vibrations and even seen a shaft snap at the counterweight. too many problems with such a new machine. I would wait at least a year to purchase to make sure the bugs are gone. Though, it does offer more power, but I'd like a reliable machine. I wouldn't want to be detailing a customers' new porsche and the machine come apart on the hood. leave some nice scratches. I'm not knocking the machine, as I have used it and tested it to several other machines.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-24-2007, 09:20 AM	#8
ChrisNJ Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 254 Location: jersey User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Quote: Originally Posted by Tex Star Detail I'd wait to buy the UDM. It was a machine that was rushed to market without the bugs worked out. Cord to short faulty power switch Unbelievable vibrations and even seen a shaft snap at the counterweight. too many problems with such a new machine. They fixed the power switch. All machines come w/ the new switch now. Mine has the new switch and is perfect. The cord argument doesnt make sense to me. Find me someone who uses the machine w/o an extension cord. And I guess #3 is personal opinion, but I think its significantly smoother than the pc. #4, I havent heard of yet. Anyway, I know these guys were running 18% off for the holiday which would make a killer deal. http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/bupaac.html
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-24-2007, 12:56 PM	#9
Tex Star Detail will detail for food Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 509 Location: Georgetown, Texas User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Actually, some machines vibrated bad. Not all of them. Which was a built in defect. A lot of owners have machines with motor problems, such as burnt out brushes. The cord- Wouldn't be a problem for me, as I throw the cord over my shoulder. It wasn't meant to say no one uses an extension cord, it was meant to mean, when you plug in the machine to an extension cord, you'll have the plug and extension cord rubbing on the paint. (where the 2 connect.) The switch- It should have NEVER been released like that. It is a safety issue. Good thing it was replaced, but still, shouldn't have been rushed into production for profits sake. here are a few quotes from owners that had them and returned them....a few times... "Well the UDM Started doing funky things. Surges in speed to almost no speed and a burning smell. Called and talked to David. He sent a new one out right a way. Good customer service. I was a little suprised when he said Ver.2 would not be out till March 2008. With the switch being a safety issue, I would have thought they would have upgraded the UDM right away. He also said very few have been returned for problems. All in All things are OK. This makes the second one I had to send back. This one has lasted since 7/27/07.......Life goes on. Glad I have a backup." ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Same thing happened to me and some others that I know about. Carbon Blue put a vid up showing what his was doing. This was your second one to return, HMMMM. Keep up the great customer service, because I will remain a customer based off of that alone impressed. The features of the UDM are also great but the longevity of the UDM hardware, however, is not really impressing me right now. I hope that these issues are addressed and fixed in Ver. 2. I just got my second one, but I do not think that I will have enough time to break it in before it starts getting real cold. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Broken shaft at the counter weight --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- mine 2. SMOKED THE BRUSH .....Only on 1 side....Motor got louder and started to slow down then started to shut off... Looks like the armatuer eating the brushes for lunch... mfg 5/1/07.... i wasnt even half way done on my 4 car with this unit. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well upon its SECOND use, I was detailing a friends car and while first applying some polish my UDM crapped out on me within 5 minutes of first turning it on. I first started noticing symptoms as if the UDM were powered by weak batteries. It would seem that at some points the motor sounded like it was losing power. Sure enough a few minutes later the machine turned off completely and would not turn on. I would have to somewhat shake it or tap it on the back and it would turn on again but would turn off by itself shorty after. Mabey I should have just stuck with my porter cable instead -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Just got a new UDM from autopia. Having a weird time with the speed dial. The motor doesn't start untill you turn it to 3! I have done a little video to show, easier then explaining. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- my first udm broke and AG replaced it. The worst part is the replacement they sent me is now acting very funny, vibrating really bad. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Those are to name a few. It's sad actually, I really wanted to purchase one. It does have a lot more power than the PC, but the trade off is not worth it. If you got one without problems, good for you, as many wish they could say the same. I hope yours does not act up like mentioned above. Like I said earlier, it was rushed to production/the market too fast. Seemed the Quality Control was loose as well. Hopefully down the road, they can get all the bugs worked out as it "can be" a good machine. It looks though, that the FLEX is giving it a run for the money.
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-21-2007, 12:43 AM	#10
hds1o mooninites are after me Age: 30 Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 392 Location: Waterford, WI User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Quote: Originally Posted by hollywood I have been detailing and buffing cars for the past 7 years. I recommend using a dewalt buffer with adjustable RPMs. Thats what I have always used and they have always worked great for me. This is also the type of buffer that I started practicing with. As for the pads to use, if you are going to cut into your paint, you will want to use a wool pad. I also recommend you use Mcgwires Diamond Cut 2.0. To get the swirls out, you can use any type of foam pad, with a swirl free cream. I believe that Mcgwires makes one that works really well. Let me know if you have any issues, I will be happy to talk you thru it if I can. Dewalt ftw! I detailed for 3 years and beat the hell out of that thing and it still works great! Im not using it 40 hours a week anymore, but it still does side jobs.
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-22-2007, 10:09 PM	#11
chevy power Bagged Age: 21 Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 2,124 Location: Canal Fulton Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? I bought a harbor freight buffer. Two year warranty for 38$. I have used it a good bit, I wanted the dewalt but it is a lot more money. If I was using it anymore than I do I would get the dewalt. It isnt as hard as everyone says it is to get great results. I had some advice from some of the guys at the autobody supply store where I bought the compound and pads.
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-24-2007, 01:13 PM	#12
TOMMYGUNZZSS Registered User Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 960 Location: Winthrop Harbor, IL User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Where can I get an orbital that uses pads instead of bonnets? I had one at my use when I was detailing but since I've moved on I really want one just to wax with pretty much.
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-30-2007, 10:00 PM	#13
gbones Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 452 Location: ai User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? i say PORTER CABLE. ive buffed a sh!t load of boats with PC, but i always wax my trucks by hand. boats are big and take a long time, your S-10 is small and doesnt take that long to wax by hand.
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-31-2007, 04:42 PM	#14
VT1992S10 Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 427 Location: Rochester/,NY school/ Rutland, VT/ Carson City, NV User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Quote: Originally Posted by hds1o Dewalt ftw! I detailed for 3 years and beat the hell out of that thing and it still works great! Im not using it 40 hours a week anymore, but it still does side jobs. dewalt variable speed ftw, we used 3m products pads and compunds/polish
	[Reply w/Quote]

01-03-2008, 04:32 PM	#15
chevy power Bagged Age: 21 Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 2,124 Location: Canal Fulton Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Quote: Originally Posted by gbones i say PORTER CABLE. ive buffed a sh!t load of boats with PC, but i always wax my trucks by hand. boats are big and take a long time, your S-10 is small and doesnt take that long to wax by hand. Most dont use a machine to apply wax, they use the machine to apply different compounds.
	[Reply w/Quote]

01-04-2008, 12:22 AM	#16
TwistedMoPres. Registered User Age: 29 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 234 Location: Kansas City Missouri User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? Quote: Originally Posted by VT1992S10 dewalt variable speed ftw, we used 3m products pads and compunds/polish +1
	[Reply w/Quote]

01-09-2008, 09:13 AM	#17
MeltingPlastic Broken Handed Superman Age: 24 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 5,267 Location: Hackensack, NJ User is: OffLine	Re: what type of buffer should i buy? i have a Makita 9227 variable speed buffer. I've used it a few times to cut and polish my truck and i like it so far. I still need to master it though, the first time i used it cause hazing and it too me FOREVER to get it out by hand, the last few times its come out great though. I def use wool to start and then foam to finish. I've also looked into getting the items toad has in his restoring faded paint pics.
	[Reply w/Quote]