Tried to buff polish the truck, now I have swirl marks.

[Ralphie]

Just like the title says, Dad and I tried using a buffer and this stuff called "Primo Polish" that he got from an old job that's supposed to be really good stuff. Now I have swirl marks all over my truck and I tried to see if waxing would take them out- to no avail. So is there something I can get to take care of this problem? It looks like ass and I want to get it taken care of ASAP. Does the type of buffer make a difference? We just used a typical buffer that wasn't random orbit or anything and I'm not sure what kind of buffing pad we used- it was just something we've had for a long time. So what gets rid of this crap?

[bmxbang]

more buffing

as most would say "it'll buff out"

[s10cyncrvr]

Use an orbital buffer with a fine grade of polish or a "swirl remover". It make take a couple of polishings with the orbital but they'll come out eventually.

[Ralphie]

Wally world has a random orbit buffer, would that do the trick better than the other one we were using? It's not techinally a buffer but a disc grinder with a softer edge and a buff pad attached to it. We weren't running it at high speed either, about medium and let the buffer do the work.

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by Ralphie

Wally world has a random orbit buffer, would that do the trick better than the other one we were using? It's not techinally a buffer but a disc grinder with a softer edge and a buff pad attached to it. We weren't running it at high speed either, about medium and let the buffer do the work.

Yes, the Wally World one will work alright. I have a Sears which is very similiar that I have used for a number of years. I've been wanting to get a new Porter Cable Random Orbital buffer but just havn't been able to spend the money on it. It uses a foam pad for an applicator instead of the terry cloth/ cotton ones on the cheaper buffers. It's much gentler on the paint.

Rotory buffers are best left to the proffesionals. You really have to know what your doing so that you don't damage the paint.

With an orbital, the technique is pretty simple and it's very safe for beginners to use.

[Dan]

use p80 grit paper to remove them

[Ralphie]

Any specific polishes to use? I had a friend of mine suggest some 3M product but I can't think of the name.

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by Ralphie

Any specific polishes to use? I had a friend of mine suggest some 3M product but I can't think of the name.

Meguiar's Swirl Remover or Griot's Polish #3. I have used both of these in the past and they work good. If the #3 doesn't eliminate them, drop down to a #2 and then follow back up with #3.

[jds_truck]

use a g10 buffing compound and dahm boy slow down that buffer and do samll sections at a time

[bag_it_&_drag_it]

use a microfiber pad, and spray detailer.

[hardlydangerous]

A buffer is a buffer and polisher is a different fish altogether.
Don't use an orbital buffer/polisher for refinishing a paint surface.

Use a 3M foam waffle pad on a POLISHER (looks like an angle grinder) or if you want to save $$$ use a hook and loop pad for a drill and buy a 3M foam waffle pad to use on the drill.
Then use a FINE cut POLISH.
Meguiar's had a large selection and so does 3M. if your buyin from you local automotive store even the Meguiar's deep crystal system Step 1 and Step 2 will work fine for bringing back the show room swirl free finish.
waxing and buffing must be done using microfiber matrials.

[xtreme3411]

Quote: Originally Posted by hardlydangerous

Don't use an orbital buffer/polisher for refinishing a paint surface.

Using an orbital buffer is the only safe way for a beginner to remove swirls........It may take a couple of times, but they will eventually come out. If your not experianced w/ a high speed, just use the orbital and work at it a while.

[LikeaRock]

Quote: Originally Posted by xtreme3411

Using an orbital buffer is the only safe way for a beginner to remove swirls........It may take a couple of times, but they will eventually come out. If your not experianced w/ a high speed, just use the orbital and work at it a while.

Although that's true, a typical $30 10" Orbital isn't nearly enough to remove paint defects.

What type of buffer did you use, a high speed rotary or one of the cheap orbitals? If you used an orbital, they might not be swirls and just streaking left over from the polish, which is very easy to get when polishing by hand or with an orbital. The Porter Cable isn't designed like your typical 10", it looks very similar to a rotary. In a way, it's basically a D/A that you can use for polishing. the PC is great for a beginner and can remove paint defects like spider webbing and marring, but it might take a few passes to get the results you want. An abrasive polish like Poorboys SSR3 or Meguairs Heavy or Med. Cut works great for things like that.
As for high speeds being left to the pro's, don't get discouraged! All it takes to use one is the right equipment/products, some experience and COMMON SENSE! I've been using a rotary for about 3 months now and you wouldn't believe the results I've been able to achieve. I started out on old fenders and a deck lid from my neighbors SL450 and now a full detail is no problem. Although, I've got a very easy to use system that makes polishing EXTREMELY easy, it's from Presta Products. They have a color-matched system for their polishes and pads, and it makes detailing fun and easy. If any of you want to check them out, their website is www.prestraproducts.com

My Saturn after a detail, topped off with P&S Longevity and Carnauba Creme Wax.


My sisters Ram after a full exterior detail, topped with Megs #20 and #26



Like I said, it just takes practice and most of all common sense when using a high speed. People can't believe a young teenager like me can get such great results with a polisher. I do love detailing, and I've got the time for it, so that helps explain why I'm so heavily involved with it

Anyway, enough of my detailing garbage and back to your problem...

Try some Meguairs Scratch X applied by hand, followed by Megs Color X, it should remove most of the swirls. Just make sure you don't use too much product, or apply it in the sun, otherwise you'll have swirls AND streaking from the Scatch X and Color X. Use a MF or sponge applicator pad, and a MF towel to remove it. Waxing doesn't do anything except add protection, depth, and gloss to the finish, pre-wax paint prep is where it's all at

[bad03xtreme]

Use Meguirs # 83 swirl remover and that will work for you just polish until it starts to dust then its good to take off with a microfiber rag.
Click Here

[LikeaRock]

Quote: Originally Posted by bad03xtreme

Use Meguirs # 83 swirl remover and that will work for you just polish until it starts to dust then its good to take off with a microfiber rag.
Click Here

#83 is a good polish as well, just make sure you follow up with a ligher polish after you use it, as it might leave some light marring when used by hand. Make sure you dont use #80, as it contains fillers. After one wash the swirls/marring, or whatever it's used for might show again

[Ralphie]

OK I'm going home this weekend (finally) to clean the truck and get those swirls out of there. At first we used a high speed polisher but now I'm thinking I'm going to go ahead and get that orbital because I'm just nervous as hell when using that polisher. I'm thinking that I'm going to get that Meg's Swirl Remover and throw that on the orbital (correct usage right?) I'm not sure where I should go from there. A finer polish (what kind) or just wax after that point?

[dropped1]

I'd becareful if your gonna use SSR3, its a very aggressive polish...even for a PC. And as far as going to buy an orbital...go buy a Portercable 7424 polisher


Read up on proper detailing techniques:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html

[Offthehook]

make sure u use the right pads

[Ralphie]

I'm not sure what's the right and wrong pads.


Someone just make me a list of what I need to get to get these marks out, I plan on using an orbital not the polisher (angle grinder). Pads, polishes, etc.

[Powerman]

Ok as a detailer at a highly rated collision center, this the process we used. To just polish, like you said your doing, we use a 3m product called "Trizact" Then from the swirl marks left on dark colored vehicles we use another 3m product called "machine glaze". It's like wax except more temporary and good for getting the swirls out. I agree about beginners should use an orbital one to avoid burning through the paint, but you already used it so might as well stick to it, important thing to remember is for polishing don't apply pressure to any one edge but just use the whole pad and let it do the work and don't hold it for too long in one area especially areas with edges of paint as it will burn it. I'd run about the 2 or 3 setting depending on you polisher. For the polish bad we use 3m and it's a dark gray colored one. I'd just go to a place that sells paint and get a new polish pad, some of this 3m polish and repolish it, and then use the machine glaze and i'll GUARENTEE you will have no swirls. Just remember, don't hold it in one spot too long(polisher) and you don't really need to apply any presure let the polisher do the work.

[LikeaRock]

Porter Cable D/A Polisher
Heavy Cut, Medium Cut, Light Cut, and Finishing pads
Semi-abrasive polish
Mildly abrasive polish
Hand Glaze (This helps hide some of the surface flaws. It doesn't REMOVE them, just hides them. Make sure you apply this before your wax)
Wax or Sealant

[Ralphie]

Ok, so 3 hours and $50 later here's what I came up with. I bought Steps 1 and 2 of the Meguiars Crystal Clear polish series, magic clay bar, a $20 orbital buffer, Meg's Scratch X, some terry cloth bonnets, foam applicators and I think that does it. I started out with a normal hand wash using some Oscar's Concentrated Soap, then I clay bared it, step 1 in the Meg's system w/ cotton bonnet on buffer, step 2 in the Meg's system with terrry bonnet on buffer, Scratch X with a new terry cloth on the bonnet (using an orbital w/ this stuff is ok right?), follow it all up with Turtle Wax Premium paste wax. I took some before and after shots and needless to say I'm very happy. There are still some very slight marks, but those will come out with future buffing. I still have to throw some wax on the wheels and clean up the tires but that's all in due time. Thanks again for all the help!

Before shots of the hood and side of the truck, notice the swirls on the hood.



After a tired ass left arm and 4 CD's rockin out.

[mini truckin]

now put some tire shine on and you got a sweet and clean ride

[LikeaRock]

Not bad! Yes, it's OK to apply Scratch-X with an orbital like that. You need to get SOME kind of heat into the paint to actually remove the defects, and with the lack of heat you can get from an orbital Scratch-X should of done a good job, and it looks like it did.

Once you decide to bite the bullet and buy something like the Porter Cable, you'll be SO glad you did

[Ralphie]

Quote: Originally Posted by LikeaRock

Not bad! Yes, it's OK to apply Scratch-X with an orbital like that. You need to get SOME kind of heat into the paint to actually remove the defects, and with the lack of heat you can get from an orbital Scratch-X should of done a good job, and it looks like it did.

Once you decide to bite the bullet and buy something like the Porter Cable, you'll be SO glad you did

100+ bucks... that's a big bullet in college.

[LikeaRock]

Quote: Originally Posted by Ralphie

100+ bucks... that's a big bullet in college.

Ah, good point

Check Ebay for them every now and then, sometimes you can find one at a decent price

[lowriderbowtie]

...and then it rains!
MUAHAHAHA

looks good tho man, you kicked the shite out of thoes swirls

[Ralphie]

Quote: Originally Posted by lowriderbowtie

...and then it rains!
MUAHAHAHA

looks good tho man, you kicked the shite out of thoes swirls

Yeah WTF is it all fillers or what? Is it just the scratch X or all the polish that I bought?

[Ralphie]

Anyone? Why are some of the swirls showing up again? Is it the Scratch X or what?

[dropped1]

We'll it could be your washing technique, all swirls are is fine scratches in the clear coat caused by improper washing techniques. OR you could be using a product with fillers that just hide swirls temporarily and eventually the fillers disappear...

Also, a Portercable will pay itself off once you get to learn how to use it. Mine paid itself off after detailing one car

[LikeaRock]

I'm not familiar with the TW Platinum series stuff, but it COULD contain fillers. Either that, or you're seeing marring left behind from the Scratch-X that didn't show up right after you finished polishing. Some times it takes a day or so to see the defects, and maybe the Platinum wax just didn't last for shit and it wahed away with that first wash.

Christmas is less than 2 months away, tell mommy and daddy dearest you need a PC. Tell them you'll detail their cars for free if they buy it

[Ralphie]

It got cold right after I polished it so I haven't had a chance to completely cover the truck with wax yet. I'm going to use my dad's garage before too long and get it heated up nice so I can put it on the right way.

[LikeaRock]

Quote: Originally Posted by Ralphie

It got cold right after I polished it so I haven't had a chance to completely cover the truck with wax yet. I'm going to use my dad's garage before too long and get it heated up nice so I can put it on the right way.

Do you mean apply the wax to warm paint? If so, you don't want the paint to be too warm. Yes, it'll help it haze faster, but the wax might bake onto the paint making it a bitch to remove. Keep some water or a QD spray handy in case that happens. Honestly, I'd try something other than the Turtle Wax platinum though. If you can find any locally, pick up some of the Meguiars Professional products in the tan bottles. Since winter is coming, I'd look for #20 Polymer sealant or #21 Synthetic (Both are good, just get whatever is available), and some #26 Hi-Tech yellow wax if they have it. Go ahead and wash with Dawn to strip off as much as the old wax as possile, then lay down the sealant. It'll most likely eat up any wax left behind, sealants do that to anything that has a trace of carnauba in it or fillers. Do thin coats with this, and wait an hour or so between coats so you give the sealant some sort of bonding time (24 hrs is best, but if you don't have that much time try to wait an hour at least). After that, use the #26. It's a carnauba so you can lay it down over the sealant to bring back some depth that the sealant hides. There's a technique called spit shining you can use for carnuabas. Mist the panel witha Quick Detail spray, mist the applicator pad and apply the wax. Mist the panel again after the wax hazes. Do this same process for each coat of carnauba. The QD acts as a barrier between each coat so you can layer more than once coat of carnauba in less than 24 hours. It sounds like a lot of work, but it's really worth it, especially on a dark color. I'd explain it in more depth but I've got to go to work (Damn Saturday work days...). If you want me to explain it some more, I'll be back later

[Ralphie]

Not heat up the paint exactly, I just don't want to try and apply wax in 50 degree weather, I'm just talking ambient tempurature. I'll try some of what you sugggested.

[LikeaRock]

You should notice a difference with those products. Just go to Napa or the like and find the Professional's line. You might want to check out a few more things while you're there