S-10 Forum is the resource on GM S-series trucks, Suspension, engine information, Body Modifications, painting tutorials.  Modifications to suit every need, budget and whim

Richs automobile detailing. Rotary buffer steps proper and safe use.


Go Back   S-10 Forum > General Tech > Cleaning / Detailing

GM, SUV, Trucks, Nascar, Racing, Sport Utility, S10Forum.com

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-18-2003, 11:53 PM   #1
Registered User
 
Age: 27
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 607
Location:
User is: OffLine
Richs automobile detailing. Rotary buffer steps proper and safe use.

Well it is spring time soon, and time to pull out those x's for the people in the north. But, who wants a dirty ride? the only way to really get a aweseme shine, and swirl mark free is the use of a rotary buffer and maybe some wet sanding. If you defect is really bad and many harsh swirls, wet sanding is a process that makes removing the marks with the rotary buffer extremly easy, but if not careful can do more harm then good. If you want to wet sand you vehicle the steps are as follows.

Get a good UNIFORM GRIT SANDPAPER. most sandpaper is not like this, meaning that the particles sizes and distribution is not set equally therefore, when u sand it is not sanding equally. Meguairs makes there paper perefectly.

Tape of the car where needed to avoid thin spots, such as body lines, hood line meet, tailgate corners etc.

soak the sand paper about 20 mintues in a bucket of water. Attach it to a good backing sanding plate and then lurbricate the surface heavily with a good water and highly foaming wash. 1500 hundred grit or higher

sand back and forth in a straigh line motion and have a backing of another sanding block around. Wipe the area with that sanding block to check prgoress. MAKE SURE THE SURFACE AND ENVIROMENT IS CLEAN. IF NOT YOU WILL END UP WITH "PIG TAILS" WHICH IS LOOKS LINE THAT ,AND ARE SCRATCHES FROM CHEMICAL FALLOUT.

after you removed the defect it is time to remove those sanding marks. a rotary buffer is unline any other buffer because of its power and amazing way to make your car perfect. if you have the confidnece and research and proper methods, youll be set to have a showroom shine.

tuck in all clothes,saftey glasses, and no belts, watches . dont use wool pads becasue there more aggressive, and the fibers makes ore scratches. use a foam cutting pad. to remove 2000 grit or higher u can use a cutting pad and a compound power cleaner by meguairs. you can always change to more aggressive, but never the other way around. 1500-2000 rpm is the best results. new or dry pads need priming. x the pad with the product, or lightly mist some meguairs final inspection.

1.lay down bead around 8-10 inches long.
2. to pick it up ,look at buffer and place at 10 oclock postion. place to right and have the left side up so that the bead of product goes into pad not you. once it has reached end of bead lay down flat and then buff. ALWAYS MOVE BACK AND FORTH, KEEP IT MOVING, OVERLAP EACH PASS BY 50 PERCENT.RUNNING IT TO FAST IT WILL HAZE THE FINISH. TO SLOW NOT ENOUGH TO CUT THE DEFECT. GOING TO FAST YOU WILL ACTUALLY LOSE TIME CAUSE YOU WILL BE MAKING A MESS.

3. make sure everything is taped off. windshiled, lights, seams etc where wax can get.
4.TILTING PAD ON EDGE WILL MAKE MARKS WORSE AND CAN BURN PAINT. ALWAYS KEEP FLAT TO THE SURFACE. WHEN U STOP BUFFING TO SOON, THE DIMINISHING ABRASIVES ONLY FOUND IN HIGH QUALITY CLEANERS SUCH AS MEGUAIRS, KEEP GOING FROM AGGRESSIVE TO LEAST AGGRESSIVE WHICH BREAK DOWN AS YOU BUFF WHICH THEN MAKE THE HIGH GLOSS TOWARDS THE END. DONT STOP BUFFING TO SOON . AS YOU MAKE YOUR FIRST PASSES YOU MODERATE PRESSURE. AS YOU MAKE YOUR OTHER PASSES LIGHEN IT UP.
5. OTHER CRAPPY ASS CLEANERS DONT BREAK DOWN WHICH MAKE THE TURNOUT JUST AS WORSE. ALSO THIS MAKES YOU LESS LIKLY TO BURN THROUGH FINISH, AND DIMINISH PAINT WEAR. BUFF UNTIL VERY THIN LAYER OF PRODUCTS IS LEFT. LIGHT RESIDUE. THAT MEANS ABRASIVES HAVE DONE ITS JOB AND POLISHED OUT THE DEFECTS.

WHEN YOU GET TO THIS POINT, STOP AND INSPECT WORK AFTER YOU TAKE OFF THE PRODUCT WITH 100 PERCENT TERRY CLOTH TOWEL.

IF NOT GONE, GO MORE AGGRESSIVE. WOOL PADS NEED METAL SPIRS TO CLEAN PAD, FOAM PADS NYLON BRUSH WHILE THE MACHINE RUNS AND WILL KICK OFF ALL THAT CRAP. CLEANING IT OFTEN WILL PREVENT SWIRLS.

IF YOU USE CRAPPY CLEANERS AND THEN POLISH, THE SCRATCHES ARE JUST COVERED UP NOT TAKEN OUT. THE CLEANER SHOULD TAKE IT OUT AND NOT SPOTS SHOULD BE LEFT. THE POLISH SHOULD ONLY BE USED TO MAKE A SHINE (ADD OILS BACK TO THE POINT) NOT AS A COVERUP, BECAUSE ONCE IT RAINS YOU WILL SEE THE SCRATCHES AGAIN. REMEMBER SAFETY FIRST IS REALLY IMPORTANT FOR A ROTARY BUFFFER. ALWAYS USE LEAST AGGRESSIVE TO THE MORE AGGRESIVE. BETTER SAFE THE SORRY. BECAUSE IN CLEAR COATS IT IS HARD TO TELL HOW MUCH MILS OF PAINT ARE ON THE VEHICLE. YOU SHOULD CHECK FOR A CHART AND PICK UP A CHEAP MIL PAINT READER WHICH YOU CAN TELL WHAT SAFE AREAS CAN BE HIT WITH THE ROTARY BUFFER.

IF YOU CAR IS NEWER THE PAINT IS STILL THICK, SO THAT IS OK.

CHECK RPM SETTINGS ALL THE TIME. 1500-2000 RPM. TO FAST-TO MUCH HEAT- BURN PAINT.

SLOW TO MEDIUM PACE. MOVE BACK AND FORTH, 50 PERECENT PAD.

MOVE SLOW SO IT CAN WORK, SO YOU CAN MOVE SMALL PARTICLES OF PAINT.

MODERATE PRESSURE FEW PASSES, LIGHTEN UP TO START POLISHING PROCESS.

STOP TO SOON, RUIN THE EFFECTS OF A GOOD CLEANER, THE ABRASIVE EFFECT.

BUFF TO LIGHT RESIDUE.

ALWAYS KEEP BUFFER MOVING AND CHECK PROGRESS.

TIME TO TIME, STOP AND CLEAN PAD TO PREVENT UNWANTED STUFF HAPPENING TO PAINT, SWIRLS ETC.

DEPTH OF DEFECTS VERTAIL PANALS, EASY TO BUFF, THE HORIZONTAL MAY TAKE A LITTLE MORE AGGRESSIVE PAD/CLEANER COMBO TO REMOVE.

ALWAYS REMOVE ALL OLD RESIDUE WITH CLEAN 100 PERCENT TERRY CLOTH TOWEL, AND FINAL INSPECITON MEGUAIRS.

THEN YOUR READY TO POLISH AND RESTORE GLOSS. USE SOFT POLISING PAD, AND A LESS AGRRESIVE CLEANER/POLISH.

POLISH AROUND 1200-1600 RMP. PRESSURE. FINE LINE BETWEEN TO MUCH AND JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT. BUFFING OUT A CAR, OR MAKING THE CAR SHINE.

PRIME PAD WITH THE FINAL INSPECTION, SLOW MEDIUM PACE. BEGINNERS MISTAKE. MOVE BUFFER TO FAST AND WANT TO GET RESULTS QUICK. SLOW AND YOULL ACTUALLY SAVE TIME.

HOW LONG TO BUFF IS REALLY EXPERICNCE. JUST KEEP CHECKING THE PROGRESS.

BUFF EACH SECTION ONCE, IF YOU BUFF A SECOND TIME, CLEAN PAD, LAY DOWN PRODUCT, LIGHTER PRESSURE. ALWAYS BUFF WET, DONT BUFF IN ONE AREA SO LONG IT IS GONE.

TO GET A SHOW ROOM SHINE. YOU NEED A MICROFIBER CLOTH, WHICH WILL ELIMINATE SCRATHES. AGAIN MEGUAIRS IS THE BEST CLOTH, BECUASE OF THE BLEND OF THE CLOTH IS GREAT. THE FIBERS ARE ABOUT 300 TIMES SMALLER THEN A FIBER CLOTH TOWEL, WHICH MAKES IT GENTLE, AND ALSO THE FIBERS HOW THEY ARE SHAPED MAKE IT OUT LIKE A SPONGE. THE OTHER RAGS MAKE THE LEFTOVER ROLL OVER THE FIBER AND NOT CATCHING IT CAUSE THE FIBERS ARE ROUND.

also look at you car after it is washed. what are you trying to remove? buffer swirls, cobweb is the most likly what you have. as you move around the car it seems the cobwed is just there. that is normal wear and tear. it looks like a spiders web. look at this in the sun. the scrathes should surround the sun. as you move it is going to follow point of reflected light. there are evenly distributed so it looks like this.

to remove this you can follow the above article. every car has these and this is the normal for all cars, unless someone used a buffer and didnt know how to.

use a swirl free polish and a finishing pad to test a small section. pass with moderate, then light, dont buff to dry buff. if nesseccary lay some more product down, wipe off with a good wipe. if there gone, just repeat. if not, step down to a more aggressive pad and try that.

protecting. the defects are now removed, and time to put some wax on. hi tech number 26 by meguairs is great. by hand use foam application pad. pore on pad one section at a time. go over enitre car. then remove with ultimate wipe that is FOLDED TIMES SO THAT IT CREATES a barrier between you hand and the paint. if terry cloth towel it should be quality and 100 percent cotton.

u can use a da buffer to apply this. prime pad, use speed 4-5 rmp setting, rest down and then TURN ON ONCE IT IS ON. apply until entire panel is done. use a dry foam pad and a bonnet if you want to also remove wax same way you applied it.

i know i used alot of caps in this, but i can emphasize following these steps and even having them by your side. trust me if you just have confidence, and follow these techniques, you will have a paint shine that no one can touch. any more questions pm me or post. also i cant type well, so sorry for all mispelling errors.

RICHS AUTO MOBILE DETAILING



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:00 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. SEO by vBSEO 3.2.0
SEO by vBSEO
vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Page generated in 0.55673 seconds with 31 queries
[Output: 48.06 Kb. compressed to 46.80 Kb. by saving 1.26 Kb. (2.62%)]