How To: Polish Aluminum Wheels

[s10cyncrvr]

I’ve been polishing wheels for a while now and have learned a lot through using various methods. I’ve had several people ask me to write a how-to on keeping aluminum wheels looking good. Here is my procedure for polishing aftermarket aluminum wheels. These are wheels with no-clear coat. YOUR FACTORY ZQ8 WHEELS HAVE A CLEARCOAT. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM POLISH ON THESE WHEELS.



I use Griots Products for almost all the detailing on my truck. They can be ordered form here… www.griotsgarage.com



How to Polish Aluminum Wheels



1. I recommend pulling the wheels off the truck in order to properly clean and polish them. After you have the wheel off the truck, the first thing you want to do is to remove anything you can from the wheel. This includes center caps, valve stem covers, etc.



Tip – Removing as may pieces as possible reduces the areas that polish can collect, resulting in a much cleaner finished product.



2. Cleaning. The next step is to wash the wheels. Your objective here is to get most of the loose dirt and brake dust off the wheel. I use regular car soap (Meguire’s) and a lambskin cleaning mitt (Griots #10209). This will remove the dirt and prevent any major scratching of the wheel. After washing it, dry it off with a chamois or micro-fiber towel.





3. Next you’ll want to remove any dirt, tar, or grease that was left over from after washing it. I use wax and grease remover(paint prep) for this job. Put some on a soft rag and wipe down the whole wheel several times. Spend as much time as you need to in order to get the stubborn areas clean. This includes recesses in the backside, the joint where the face meets the hoop, and the lug nut and center cap holes.





Tip – Having a clean wheel is the most important part of the polishing process. Any dirt on the wheel will be mixed in with the polish and will scratch while you are polishing. Cleanliness.



4. Next you’ll want to re-wash the wheel using the same methods you used in #2. This will allow any dirt that became dislodge with the wax and grease remover to be washed away. Dry the wheel off and inspect it. You should have a perfectly clean wheel. If you notice anything that could contaminate the polish, remove it now.



5. Polishing. I classify polishing into two categories:

- The first method(Stage 1) is the more aggressive way to polish. This is to be used on an oxidized wheel. This requires the use of a cloth applicator or a product like the Mothers Powerball. This method will remove the oxidation quickly and will leave you with a nice shine. But if brought into sunlight you’ll notice small micro-scratches on your wheel.

- The second method(Stage 2) of polishing is a less aggressive way. This requires the use of a latex glove as an applicator. This method will not remove oxidation. It is only meant to be used on an already shiny wheel. It will however remove the small micro-scratches that were left over from the first method. Performing this style of polishing will leave you with a perfectly clear and scratch free shine. Some people refer to it as mirrored.



Tip – Only polish on a cool wheel away from the sun. It makes the job much easier and provides superior results.



6. Stage 1 Polishing. I like to use the Mothers Powerball on a drill for my initial polishing. It does an excellent job and is much quicker then doing it by hand, which allows for more time for Stage 2 polishing. I use Mothers Billet Aluminum Polish for all the polishing on my wheels. Apply some polish to wheel and to the Powerball and slowly start spreading the polish around at low speed. After a thin layer of polish is on the wheel you can increase the speed of the drill and use moderate pressure. It is important to keep the drill moving so that you end up with an even shine. Continue running the drill until the polish turns black. You can then remove it with a 100% Cotton Polishing Cloth (Griots #14600). I generally use 2 polish removal cloths. The first one I’ll wipe the majority of the polish off with and the second I’ll use to buff off any excess. This will keep the second cloth cleaner and will speed up the process.





Tip – Never let any of your cloths touch the ground. Any dirt they pick up on the ground will transfer onto your wheel when you’re removing the polish, resulting in scratching. Remember cleanliness



Continue using the Powerball on all surfaces of the wheel. If there are spots that it will not reach, use a 100% Cotton Polishing Cloth or a Micro fiber Cloth to apply the polish in those areas. You’ll have to use some elbow grease in order to achieve the same shine as what the Powerball produces. Continue polishing until you have the shine you desire. The more times or longer you polish, the clearer the shine will be, until you get to the point where their is no oxidation left.



7. Stage 2 Polishing. So now you have a nice shiny looking wheel. Your wheels haven’t looked this great since they were new. You bolt them back on your truck, roll out of the garage, and BAM… the sun hits it and you have micro-scratches. It looks similar to a dark colored car that hasn’t been properly waxed. These were formed from the last polishing.



The way polish works is that there are large particles in there to remove oxidation quickly, but at the same time put very tiny scratches in the soft aluminum. As these particles remove the oxidation they break down into smaller particles whose job is to remove the tiny scratches the big particles put in. The problem lies in the applicator. Using a foam or cloth applicator allows the particles to be soaked up before they are finished doing their job. What you need is an applicator that is soft but does not soak anything up.



For this I use a Latex glove. Simply put one on your hand, dip your finger in polish and start applying the polish in small circles using moderate pressure. You’ll notice the polish turn from a white paste into a gray/black thinner paste into a black liquid. This takes time, don’t rush it. When it is a black liquid, it has broken down as far as it’ll go. Continue to rub the liquid on the wheel for about 30 seconds. Removal of the polish is the same as before. Use two cloths, the second one being your clean polishing cloth. Continue to do the whole wheel like this working small sections at a time. This procedure takes a lot of time and elbow grease, but it will be worth it.







When you think your finished roll the wheel back out in the sun and look for the micro scratches. They should be all gone and the wheel will have a smooth clear shine similar to that of a properly waxed car. If there are any small scratches left a second polishing may be needed.



7. The Details. Walking around car shows, I’ll see some great looking wheels. When I croutch down and take a good look though, I’ll see a lot of mistakes. Take the time to finish removing any excess polish. All the cracks, hard to reach areas, around the valve stem, around the center cap, and the lug nut holes are places I see a lot of left over polish. I like to take a very thin flat head screwdriver, wrap it in my polishing cloth, and run it in all the cracks. BE CAREFULL! You’ll want a thin cloth layer over the tip of the screwdriver so that it can reach further down in the cracks but you don’t want to poke through the cloth and scratch your wheel. Go slow, take your time, and you’ll eventually become comfortable with it.









When applying tire shine, apply it to an applicator and then use the applicator on the tire. Never spray it directly on the wheel. If any silicone gets on the wheel, it’ll smear and eventually ruin your perfect polish job. Another pet-peev of mine is wet-looking tires. Go to any Concours Event and you will lose points for having wet looking tires. Tire dressing should leave a tire an even satin black. For this I use Griots Vinyl & Rubber Dressing(Griots #11169). It contains no silicone, so you won’t get that build up that you do using other products and it leaves you with a black natural looking tire.



When cleaning your wheels after a fresh polish, I like to use a small California Duster. This will lift and remove the dirt and dust keeping the scraching to a minimum. Unfortunately if a wheel isn’t sealed it will start to scratch as soon as you wipe it. Using the duster reduces this but only a Stage 2 Polish will restore the perfectly clear shine you once had.



8. The Finished Product. Step back and admire your work in different lighting. If you followed the steps properly you should have an excellent looking wheel. You took the time and hard work that most others don’t to improve the look of your truck. Congratulations!


If you have any questions, just ask.



I’m going to be testing some sealants to try and increase the durability for everyday drivers. I’ll let you know how that goes.

[jimmything08]

For a sealant do you recommend Zoop Seal? if so, when would I put it on following this process?

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by jimmything08

For a sealant do you recommend Zoop Seal? if so, when would I put it on following this process?

I havn't tried any sealants yet so I can't comment on them. dropped1 has used Poorboys Wheel Sealant and he gave it a good review. This will probably be the first one I try since its cheap and seems to work.

[foxracin23]

thanks for the tip rims looks good, wish i could get my spokes looking like that

[jimmything08]

Hmm.. I just have heard a lot of good things about Zoop Seal so I think Im going to go with that.. Ill let you know how it works out!

Awesome write up by the way. Where can I get some of those real good microfiber towels?

[xtreme3411]

I used to spend hours and hours trying to get the polish on the wheel perfectly even and re-polishing spots because of the small swirls/scratches......I tried the latex glove method, and its probaably the best secret that Ive eveer came across.....Thanks for the write up s10cyncrvr

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by jimmything08

Where can I get some of those real good microfiber towels?

www.griotsgarage.com

#11116 White ones are for wax removal
#11115 Yellow ones are for polish removal. A little bit deeper nap on them
#14600 I like the 100% Cotton for polishing wheels. Just as soft and they are economically priced. Plus you can use bleach on these.

[Rhotpursuit]

I haven't had any luck finding Mothers Powerball...any suggestions?? BTW...WOW

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rhotpursuit

I haven't had any luck finding Mothers Powerball...any suggestions?? BTW...WOW

I got mine from O'Rielys Auto Parts. $25. Not sure if you have those in your area. I thought I heard some other chain part stores can order it. If not, check ebay or maybe a dealer at a local swap meet or show.

[Little Red Sled]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rhotpursuit

I haven't had any luck finding Mothers Powerball...any suggestions?? BTW...WOW

Same problem here. Not at Auto Zone or Advanced yet. I havn't tryed O'Ryleys though. I hope I can find one.

[MaveRankus]

those wheels are focking beautiful after you got done with them... nice job!

[MX_Racer32]

nice right up

[dwarfs10]

i went everywhere in town and no one had the powerball so i had napa order one. if they carry mothers they can order one just ask

[98esten]

I polished mine doing like you said I didnt get mine as good as yours but very good. I used cotton balls in the hard to reach corners and The Griots polish washes off with soap and water.

[s10cyncrvr]

Glad it worked out for ya. Good idea with the cotton balls.

[98esten]

I used the latex gloves and did exactly like you said and still have some small scratches.cant figure that out.

[yell02sonoma]

Awesome write-up!

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by 98esten

I used the latex gloves and did exactly like you said and still have some small scratches.cant figure that out.

If you can see them under normal inside lighting, then I'd hit do the entire polishing process over again. If you only see them out in the direct sun then they may just need to be polished by hand a few more times.

I noticed you also said you washed the polish off with soap and water. You might have put the scratches back in when you dried them. I always repolish my wheels if they happen to get wet, because if I dry them with my chamois, it will scratch. Thats why I like removing the polish with the cotton cloths. By the time your finished the second cloth has a slight build-up of used polish on it, and it becomes super soft.

[bg's]

Will flour get those tiny scratches out ?

[98esten]

Quote: Originally Posted by s10cyncrvr

If you can see them under normal inside lighting, then I'd hit do the entire polishing process over again. If you only see them out in the direct sun then they may just need to be polished by hand a few more times.

I noticed you also said you washed the polish off with soap and water. You might have put the scratches back in when you dried them. I always repolish my wheels if they happen to get wet, because if I dry them with my chamois, it will scratch. Thats why I like removing the polish with the cotton cloths. By the time your finished the second cloth has a slight build-up of used polish on it, and it becomes super soft.

I use a back pack blower to dry the wheels off. I tried the way you said and it still left scratches. Only in sunlight and then they aren't bad at all.

[orangesonoma]

hey jeremy...if i pay for the flight...will you come over and polish my wheels?

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by bg's

Will flour get those tiny scratches out ?

Thats what I hear. I am definetly going to try it out the next time I polish. I havn't done them for a couple of months since the truck has just been sitting. Some people said to throw it on the wheel with the polish, but I was thinking of mixing in a little water and using it as a paste after polishing. I guess the flour particles are just a very mild abrasive

Quote: Originally Posted by orangesonoma

hey jeremy...if i pay for the flight...will you come over and polish my wheels?

lol. I tell you what, I'll polish them for ya at ITB this year, but you have to have the Blazer done by then.

[orangesonoma]

Quote: Originally Posted by s10cyncrvr

lol. I tell you what, I'll polish them for ya at ITB this year, but you have to have the Blazer done by then.

im gonna hold you to that man...i plan on going to indy WITH the blazer...but there is no way in hell i will drive there with them....i dont care if i have to rent a truck to bring them...and have someone else drive it...

[Bennelton]

s10cyncrvr, nice write up. I've always been a fan of your truck. I'll order you a pizzia right now and have my roomie give you head if you give me your rims.

[lowriderbowtie]

i wish my rims would shine up like THAT!! maybe i need some quality aluminum rims, and not eagles. haha

[lows10blazer]

what do u do if there is alot of that black/brown residue on the rims and it doesnt come of with just wheel cleaner will that was remover help with that ??

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by lows10blazer

what do u do if there is alot of that black/brown residue on the rims and it doesnt come of with just wheel cleaner will that was remover help with that ??

Yes, the wax and grease remover will help to clean the old, stubborn brake dust. If you have a smooth backed wheel, I would use a soft rag. For wheels with ribbed backs, I've use scotch pads before and it worked really well.

[TnHombre]

Quote: Originally Posted by lowriderbowtie

i wish my rims would shine up like THAT!!

i thought you said in another post that you didnt give a crap about your wheels because they had 60,ooo kms on them HHHMMMM

[TnHombre]

sweet job!!

[bassplayer60]

That is a nice finished wheel. Question: How do you know if the rim you have is Aluminum or Chromed? WIll this info work the same way for Chromed wheels?

Also what is that first picture of? Is that like 'steel wool' or is it a picture of the dirt that you collected after using the 'wax and grease remover'?

Thanks for a great write up.

Vern
bassplayer60

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by bassplayer60

That is a nice finished wheel. Question: How do you know if the rim you have is Aluminum or Chromed? WIll this info work the same way for Chromed wheels?

Also what is that first picture of? Is that like 'steel wool' or is it a picture of the dirt that you collected after using the 'wax and grease remover'?

Thanks for a great write up.

Vern
bassplayer60

I really don't know of any good way to tell the difference between chrome and aluminum, maybe someone else could chime in on this. I do know that when you polish aluminum the black residue appears almost immediatly. On chrome, there is very little black residue from polishing. You might want to try a small area on the back of the wheel.

For chromed wheels, I would just hand polish them with a polish made specifically for chrome.

The thing in the first picture is a lambskin cleaning mit that I use when I wash the wheels. It's very soft and I only use it on those wheels to help keep it clean and free of any type of debris. It helps to prevent any scratching during the washing process.

[98esten]

Quote: Originally Posted by s10cyncrvr

I really don't know of any good way to tell the difference between chrome and aluminum, maybe someone else could chime in on this. I do know that when you polish aluminum the black residue appears almost immediatly. On chrome, there is very little black residue from polishing. You might want to try a small area on the back of the wheel.

For chromed wheels, I would just hand polish them with a polish made specifically for chrome.

The thing in the first picture is a lambskin cleaning mit that I use when I wash the wheels. It's very soft and I only use it on those wheels to help keep it clean and free of any type of debris. It helps to prevent any scratching during the washing process.

maybe you could use a magnet to see if it was chrome.

[DevilDriver]

added to how to section:
http://www.s10forum.com/how_to_polish_aluminum_wheels

[ZZ4Blazer]

Very nice write up. Rims look incredible.

What about using like a trash bag, or something like that instead of the glove? Or wrapping the end of a towel in a bag? It seems like that would polish faster than just your fingertips using the glove.

Any updates on a sealer? I just got a set of bonspeeds, and have been eyeing up the poorboys wheel sealant.

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by ZZ4Blazer

What about using like a trash bag, or something like that instead of the glove? Or wrapping the end of a towel in a bag? It seems like that would polish faster than just your fingertips using the glove.

Any updates on a sealer? I just got a set of bonspeeds, and have been eyeing up the poorboys wheel sealant.

I'm sure that would work. I like to work small sections at a time so my fingers seem to be the ideal size for me.

No update on a sealer. I decided not to bother with one. I've gotten a maintenace polishing procedure down to about 1.5 hours for the fronts of all 4 wheels so I just repolish every couple weeks when I drive it.

[syclonekid43]

im gonna try this on my wheels. great write up. and love your truck.

[Hiceman]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rhotpursuit

I haven't had any luck finding Mothers Powerball...any suggestions?? BTW...WOW

go to wal mart they have everything including that saw it the other day

[Baggd]

what the ****? no matter how hard i try, my wheels look like ass compared to that. i dont get it.

[chrisisdashiznt]

nice rims what size i have 18'' boyd coddington rims on my truck

[jimmything08]

HOLY SHIT!

Over a year old thread, dug up... This happens rarely.

[stevedavis58]

you mention zq8 wheels having a clear coat. i assume you are refering to the 16 inch wheels on the xtreme. i just bought the "mothers" mag and aluminum polish but guess i wont be using it. if i am understanding this correctly, the, how do i polish or what should i do to the factory wheels on my 2000 xtreme. by the way...........THANK YOU!!
steve

[s10cyncrvr]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevedavis58

you mention zq8 wheels having a clear coat. i assume you are refering to the 16 inch wheels on the xtreme. i just bought the "mothers" mag and aluminum polish but guess i wont be using it. if i am understanding this correctly, the, how do i polish or what should i do to the factory wheels on my 2000 xtreme. by the way...........THANK YOU!!
steve

On those wheels, use the same polish and wax that you would use on the paint. You're basically just buffing the clearcoat.

[stevedavis58]

thankyou!
steve

[johncola99]

I also am wondering if this method will work on my 2008 f250 super duty with the 20" aluminum wheels

thanks
john

[David12460]

Anyone know if there is a how-to take thr clear coating off the new style zq8 wheels.

[91sonomast]

yeah, go buy some wheel acid, spray it on and let it sit, i know it will cloud them up if left on shortly, are u going to polish ur wheels?

[Firm]

Quote: Originally Posted by David12460

Anyone know if there is a how-to take thr clear coating off the new style zq8 wheels.

Paint stripper...Takes a couple applications. When I did mine I was careful to keep it away from the grey painted parts, but if you want the whole thing stripped you could do that too.

[David12460]

Do you have any pictures of them when you were done? Im still debating doing mine. They are super easy to clean right now with that clear coat over them. Its a nice change of pace from my last truck with polished aluminum wheels in minnesota year round...

[Firm]

After I polished mine I resprayed them with some clear....so they should clean up just as easily as before(waiting for the spring before I put them back on the truck). Mine are the older style ZQ8's....but same deal.

Heres a thread I had posted when I did this....Theres some shitty pics of them in there...But I'll get better ones once they're on the truck. Theres also a quick walkthrought I'd written.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f74/ol...r-caps-326978/

[BTE]

I tried your method of polishing with a latex glove the other day on an older set of billet wheels, but it didn't turn out as nice. It looks like it has sort of a haze over the surface. It isn't visible all the time, you have to look in certain lights to see it. What would cause this, and how do I fix it?????